Janis |
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Crochet DROPS jumper worked in a square with flounce sleeves and lace pattern in ”Paris”. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS 170-2 |
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MAGIC CIRCLE: To avoid hole in the middle beg with this technique: Hold yarn end in the left hand and make a loop around left index finger (from left to right). Hold the loop with left thumb and index finger. Insert hook through loop, get the yarn from ball, pull yarn through loop, make 1 YO on hook and pull YO through st on hook = 1 sc, then work 8 sc around loop, finish with 1 sl st in first dc = 9 sc. Continue as explained in pattern – AT THE SAME TIME pull yarn end so that loop is tighten tog and the hole disappears. CROCHET INFO: Replace first sc on round with 1 ch. Finish round with one sl st in first ch from beg of round. Replace first dc on round/row with 3 ch. Finish round with one sl st in third ch from beg of round. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.4. TRIPLE TR: Make 4 YOs on hook, insert hook around ch-space and pull yarn around ch-space, * 1 YO on hook, pull yarn through the next 2 loops on hook *, repeat from *-* 4 more times = 1 loop on hook. DECREASE TIP: Dec 1 dc by working the next 2 dc tog as follows: Work 1 dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 loops on hook), then work next dc but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook. ---------------------------------------------------------- JUMPER: BACK PIECE: Work back piece in a circle, then as a square from mid back. Work up along one side of square for shoulder/neck at the end. Work a MAGIC CIRCLE on hook size 4.5 mm/US 7 with Paris – see explanation above = 9 sc around circle. Then work according to A.1 (on first round in A1 work 2 sc in each of the 9 sc = 18 sc). REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! READ CROCHET INFO! When A.1 has been worked, there are 120 dc on round and piece measures approx. 22 cm / 8 3/4'' in diameter. Then work according to A.2, work 4 repetitions of A.2 around the circle - beg on second round in A.2. NOTE: Sl sts at beg of A.2 are only worked at beg of round. When A.2 has been worked, continue according to A.3. A.x shows 1 repetition of A.3 in width. Work A.3, in every corner work 1 tr + 3 ch + 1 tr, work 2 repetitions more of A.3 between every corner for every round worked. Continue with A.3 until piece measures 23-25-27-29-33-36 cm / 9"-9 3/4"-10½"-11½"-13"-14 1/4" from middle (46-50-54-58-66-72 cm / 18"-19 3/4"-21 1/4"-22 3/4"-26"-28½" in total), there are now approx. 18-20-22-24-28-30 repetitions of A.3 along each side of square. Now work piece back and forth and dec for neck in the middle of the first side of square. Cut the yarn and skip the middle 6-6-8-8-10-10 repetitions (= neck) on the first side of square, continue A.3 with inc in the corners until row has been worked, do not work over the 6-6-8-8-10-10 repetitions skipped at beg of row. Fasten off, piece measures 25-27-29-31-35-38 cm / 9 3/4"-10½"-11½"-12 1/4"-13 3/4"-15" from middle (50-54-58-62-70-76 cm / 19 3/4"-21 1/4"-22 3/4"-24½"-27½"-30" in total), there are approx. 7-8-8-9-10-11 repetitions on each shoulder, and approx. 20-22-24-26-30-32 repetitions along each of the other 3 sides. Insert 1 marker in each side, 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm / 6¼''-6¾''-7''-7½''-8''-8¼'' down from shoulder, this shows where sleeve is sewn in. FRONT PIECE: Work as back piece until piece measures 17-19-21-23-27-30 cm / 6 3/4"-7½"-8 1/4"-9"-10½"-11 3/4" from middle (32-36-40-44-52-58 cm / 12½"-14 1/4"-15 3/4"-17 1/4"-20½"-22 3/4" in total), there are now approx. 14-16-18-20-24-26 repetitions of A.3 along each side of square. Now work piece back and forth and dec for neck in the middle of the first side of square. Cut the yarn and skip the middle 2 repetitions (= neck) on the first side of square, continue with A.3 with inc in the corners until row has been worked, do not work over the 2 repetitions skipped at beg of row. Turn and work a row from WS. Cut the yarn, skip the first 2-2-3-3-4-4 repetitions, continue with A.3 and inc in the corners, but turn when 2-2-3-3-4-4 repetitions remain on row, 6-6-8-8-10-10 repetitions have been dec mid front for neck. Continue back and forth with A.3 and inc until piece measures 25-27-29-31-35-38 cm / 9 3/4"-10½"-11½"-12 1/4"-13 3/4"-15" from middle (50-54-58-62-70-76 cm / 19 3/4"-21 1/4"-22 3/4"-24½"-27½"-30" in total), there are approx. 7-8-8-9-10-11 repetitions on each shoulder, and approx. 20-22-24-26-30-32 repetitions along each of the other 3 sides, adjust according to back piece. Fasten off. Insert 1 marker in each side, 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm / 6¼''-6¾''-7''-7½''-8''-8¼'' down from shoulder, this shows where sleeve is sewn in. SLEEVE: Sleeve is worked in the round, top down. Work 64-64-69-69-74-74 ch and form a ring with one sl st in first ch. Work 3 ch (= 1 dc), 1 dc in each of the next 6-6-3-3-0-0 ch, skip ch 1, * work 1 dc in each of the next ch 7, skip 1 st *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 56-56-60-60-64-64 dc. Remember CROCHET INFO! Then work in the round and according to A.3. On 3rd round in A.3 dec 8 dc evenly - READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every time 3th round in diagram is worked 3 times in total = 32-32-36-36-40-40 dc. Work A.3 until piece measures 33-32-31-30-27-25 cm / 13"-12½"-12 1/4"-11 3/4"-10½"-9 3/4", finish after 2nd or 4th round in A.3. Work 40-40-40-48-48-48 dc in total around ch-spaces. Then work according to A.4 (5-5-5-6-6-6 repetitions in width, diagram shows 2 repetitions in width), work first round as follows: * Work 1 dc in each of the first 7 dc, ch 1, skip 1 dc *, repeat from *-* 4-4-4-5-5-5 more times. NOTE: Sl sts at beg of A.4 are only worked at beg of round. Work A.4 1 time vertically. Fasten off. Sleeve measures approx. 48-47-46-45-42-40 cm / 19"-18½"-18"-17 3/4"-16½"-15 3/4". Work another sleeve the same way. ASSEMBLY: Sew the shoulder seams. Sew side seams from markers in the side and down. Sew in sleeves. TWINED STRING: Cut 2 lengths of 3 metres/3 1/4 yds each. Twine the strands tog until they resist, fold the string double so that it twines again. Make a knot at each end. Thread tie up and down around the neck. Cut 8 lengths of yarn of 20 cm / 8''. Thread the ends through the end of the tie and fold them double. Twine one of the strand around the top of tassel. Make another fringe in the other end of tie. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
Comments / Questions (165)
Linda Randall wrote:
How am I starting the sleeves? I don't understand anything after 1 double crochet in each chain. Do I slip stitch in the last to first and chain up to next level? Not sure what I'm skipping. Please help. Is there a YouTube tutorial of this?
22.03.2016 - 06:01DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Randall, to avoid fundation chain to be too tight after first row, you crochet more chains that you will need dc on next row. Work first row as follows: 3 ch (= 1st dc), then work 1 dc in each of the 6-6 dc(size S + M)-3-3 dc (size L + XL) - do not work any dc here for 2 larger sizes, then skip 1 ch and work *1 dc in each of the next 7 ch, skip 1 ch* to the end of row, ie you will now skip every 8th ch. Happy crocheting!
22.03.2016 - 08:29Koszinski wrote:
Bonjour je ne le comprend plus du tout je laisse tomber ce modèle cordialement
19.03.2016 - 10:54DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Koszinski, rappelez-vous que pour toute assistance complémentaire à la réalisation d'un modèle, vous pouvez vous adresser à votre magasin DROPS, même par mail ou téléphone et/ou au Forum DROPS. Bon crochet!
21.03.2016 - 13:45Linda Randall wrote:
This pattern is so difficult. It should have diagrams. If there were pictures or a video showing what the stitches should look like it would help. I don't see how to do the picot. Are the 3 dc joined together? Where do I join line 3? Do I sl st to the T? I don't see where A3 goes. Is that just for the corners or the sides? I don't see where the tr goes. The directions are very confusing. It would really help to see the full back.
15.03.2016 - 19:16DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Randall, to work the picot, work as in the video below, but instead of 1 dc work 3 dc in 1st of the 3 ch - and when the picot is done, work 1 dc in next dc. A.3 is worked along the sides of the square after A.2 has been done. Happy crocheting!
16.03.2016 - 08:40Donna wrote:
This pattern is extremely difficult, how many times are we working A2?
04.03.2016 - 04:55DROPS Design answered:
Dear Donna, diagram A.2 is repeated a total of 4 times around. For any individual assistance, remember you can get help from your DROPS store, they'll have tips & advices for you. Happy crocheting!
04.03.2016 - 10:50Donna wrote:
Diane Sanicola, I need h help with this can you look me up on Facebook, I would love to see how yours turned out, I'm Donna Farmer on facebook I don't understand this pattern at all
04.03.2016 - 03:00Susanne wrote:
Mir ist noch nicht 1oo% klar, wie die Ecken im Muster A3 beim Vorder- und Rückenteil funktionieren sollen. Die 1. Reihe verstehe ich noch, aber bei den weiteren Runden bin ich mir unsicher!
03.03.2016 - 22:28DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Susanne, die Symbole von A.3 sind in der Legende erklärt. Die Ecken entstehen bereits ab Muster A.2, an diesen Stellen arbeiten Sie dann später 1 D-Stb + 3 Lm + 1 D-Stb.
07.03.2016 - 13:15Diane Sanicola wrote:
Hi! Love this sweater! I have completed through A3 for the front and the back and am confused by the next step 'continue back and forth and then decrease' the yarn is in the middle? Should I cut it and join in a corner? Please help. I have two beautiful squares and want this to be complete!
03.03.2016 - 20:59DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Sanicola, when square measures on back piece: 23-36 cm (9"-14" 1/4) or on front piece 17-30 cm (6" 3/4 - 11" 3/4) from the middle - see size - cut the yarn and continue on the top side towards neck: skip the middle 6-10 repetitions (on back piece) on the right side of square and 2-4 repetitions (on front piece) (beg front ppiece from WS) and continue A.3 with inc in the corners as before, leaving 6-10 repetitions unworked for neck. Happy crocheting!
04.03.2016 - 10:38Donna wrote:
Is A3 worked in the round or only on the sides?
03.03.2016 - 03:00DROPS Design answered:
Dear Donna, A.3 is worked over the 4 sides, ie in the round, but in each corner work (1 tr, 3ch, 1 tr) with 3 ch on either side of this. Happy crocheting!
03.03.2016 - 09:00Christina wrote:
I'm having trouble figuring out the corners during A.3. I think I've managed okay for the first 3 rows, but I can't figure out how the 4th (the one with repeats of dc, 3 ch) should look at the corners. Approaching a corner, should it be dc into tr from previous row, 3 ch, (tr, 3 ch, tr) into corner space? Then 3 ch or dc (into which stitch) next? I really wish there was a chart for the corners.
01.03.2016 - 00:52DROPS Design answered:
Dear Christina, on every row in A.3 you should have in each corner 3 ch, then in next corner work (1 tr, 3 ch, 1 tr, 3 ch) in the 3-ch-space from previous row. On either side of this, work as stated in diagram. Happy crocheting!
01.03.2016 - 09:20Donna wrote:
Does A2 last row begin with a chain 3 or double crochet
29.02.2016 - 21:52DROPS Design answered:
Dear Donna, at the end of next to last row crochet sl st to the mid sc from beg of row, then start with ch3 to replace 1st dc. Happy crocheting!
01.03.2016 - 09:15