DROPS / 170 / 26

Peach Dream by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS jacket worked in a square with lace pattern in ”Paris”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no w-581
Yarn group C or A + A
Size: S/M – L/XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
650-800-900-1000 g color no 01, apricot

DROPS CROCHET Hook size 5 mm / H/8 – or size needed to get 14 dc x 8.5 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 1.80 $ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 2.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.80 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
See diagrams A.1 to A.9.

Beg every sc row with 1 ch (replaces first sc).
Beg every dc row with 3 ch (replaces first dc).
Beg every tr row with 4 ch (replaces first tr).

Inc 1 dc by working 2 dc in/around same st.

CROCHET TIP (applies to sleeves):
After last sc on the round, continue to next round with 1 sc around next ch-space (= first ch-space on next round). NOTE: Insert a marker at the beg of round between last ch and first sc on the round, move the marker upwards. NOTE: BE CAREFUL NOT TO DISPLACE THE MARKER.

Work 1 sc around next ch-space but wait with last pull through, work next sc around next ch-space (do not work 5 ch between sc), on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook.

Work 207-229-252-275 ch on hook size 5 mm / H/8 with Paris. Work 1 dc in 4th ch from hook (= 2 dc) - READ CROCHET INFO, 1 dc in each of the next 3-5-3-1 ch, * skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 165-183-201-219 dc.

Then work NEXT TO LAST row of diagram A.1 to A.5 - see arrow in chart - as follows: Work A.1 over the first 4 dc, work A.2 over the next 6 dc, repeat A.3 until 11 dc remain (= 24-27-30-33 times in total in width), work A.4 over the next 7 dc and finish with A.5. Work last row of A.1 to A.5. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! Then repeat A.1 to A.5 vertically. NOTE: Do not work first row in diagram, it shows how next row should be worked in sts from previous row. When piece measures 37-38-41-42 cm / 14½"-15"-16"-16½", adjust so that next row is with dc and from RS (cut the yarn if next row is from WS), divide the piece.

Continue as follows from RS: Work A.1 and A.2 as before, repeat A.3 over the next 36-42-48-54 dc (= 6-7-8-9 times in total in width), work A.4 and then A.5, turn piece. Continue pattern like this over these sts until piece measures 18-19-20-21 cm / 7"-7½"-8"-8 1/4" from where it was divided, adjust so that next row is with dc and from WS (cut the yarn if next row is from RS).

Work as follows from RS: Work A.1, A.2, repeat A.3 over the next 30-36-42-48 dc (= 5-6-7-8 times in total in width), A.4, finish with A.5. Continue pattern like this over these sts until piece measures 18-19-20-21 cm / 7"-7½"-8"-8 1/4", adjust pattern according to right front piece.

Work as right front piece.

Then work the parts tog from WS (i.e. work from left front piece, over back piece and to right front piece) with pattern as before, i.e. work as follows from WS: Work A.5 and A.4 as before, A.3 24-27-30-33 times in total in width, A.2, finish with A.1. Continue pattern like this. When piece measures 63-67-73-77 cm / 24 3/4"-26½"-28 3/4"-30½" in total, adjust so that next row is with dc, inc 4-2-0-14 dc evenly – READ INCREASE TIP = 169-185-201-233 dc. Then work next row as follows: A.6 over the first 4 dc, repeat A.7 until 5 dc remain (= 10-11-12-14 times in width), A.8 over next dc, finish with A.9 over the last 4 dc. When A.6 to A.9 have been worked 1 time vertically, piece measures approx. 71-75-81-85 cm / 28"-29½"-32"-33½" in total. Fasten off.

Sleeve is worked in the round, top down. Work 78-78-83-83 ch on hook size 5 mm / H/8 with Paris.
ROUND 1: Work 1 sc in 13th ch from hook, * ch 5, skip ch 4, 1 sc in next ch *, repeat from *-* over ch, work 1 sc around the first 3 ch = 14-14-15-15 ch-spaces - READ CROCHET TIP!

Continue to work 5 ch and 1 sc around every ch-space. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', dec 1 ch-space before marker - READ DECREASE TIP!

Repeat dec alternately on each side of marker every 4 cm / 1½'' 4 more times = 9-9-10-10 ch-spaces.
When piece measures 26 cm / 10 1/4'', finish round with 1 sl st in last ch mid under sleeve. Continue in the round as follows:
ROUND 1: Work ch 3, * 4 dc around first/next ch-space, 3 dc around next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round = 32-32-35-35 dc. Fasten off.

Work another sleeve the same way.

Fasten sleeve to jacket, sew in outer loops of edge sts, and make sure to avoid a tight seam.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= sc in st
= dc in st
= ch
= dc around ch
= 1 bobble with 4 tr: Work 1 tr in next dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work 1 tr in each of the next 3 dc the same way, pull yarn through all 5 sts on hook
= tr in st
= first row is explained in pattern
= 1 sc around ch
= 2 dc in same st
= Work 1 dc in next dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc the same way, pull yarn through all 4 sts on hook
= 7 dc in same ch/dc
= beg by working this row

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 170-26) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (43)

Joan O’Keeffe 29.08.2019 - 21:04:

Would like to get pattern for Granny Squares Jacket Cardigan. Could you please help.

DROPS Design 30.08.2019 kl. 09:16:

Dear Mrs O'Keeffe, make sure you are choosing the Crochet-language the most accurate for you, either US- or UK- ; there are some videos to this pattern, and maybe the FAQ can be helpful. Happy crocheting!

Lorna Espinas 24.07.2019 - 18:31:

Hello, I have never worked with diagrams before but I love this design enough that I am up for the challenge. Question: when done with divided pieces, do I join them together? The next instruction was work together and I assume that this pertains to next row which links the pieces but what about the sides or am I totally wrong in reading the pattern? I’m not there yet but just looking ahead. Thanks.

DROPS Design 25.07.2019 kl. 18:51:

Hi Lorna! You divide your work in order to create armholes: dividing means that you work only above a piece of work (ex. above right front), the rest is waiting. After doing right front, back and left front, you put all pieces together like in the section FRONT AND BACK PIECE. Happy crocheting!

Renell 01.10.2018 - 02:04:

Hello again, I had counted the second row which is 165 do. When I work the 3 rows, it doesn't add up. I got this - 4dc + 6dc +6dc (23 times) and I got 2 =4 not 3 = 6 7dc +4 dc = 159 not 165. I had repeatedly 3 times and didn't get it right. What I am doing wrong? Thank you!

DROPS Design 01.10.2018 kl. 09:55:

Dear Mrs Renell, after you have the 165 dc, work pattern as follows: A.1 (= 4 dc), A.2 (= over next 6 dc), repeat A.3 (= over 6 sts) a total of 24 times and finish with A.4 (= over the next 7 dc) and A.5 (= 4 dc) : 4+6+ 24x6 + 7 + 4 = 165 sts. Do not hesitate to add markers between each repeat to make sure you are crocheting the correct number of repeats in width. Happy crocheting!

Renell 23.09.2018 - 05:34:

Hi there. Can you help me with this one please. I am doing this pattern. Please see on page 2 - jacket. I had done 207 chains and work 1dc in the 4th ch from hook and that make 2 dc. Now I don't understand the first two sentences saying 'Read crochet info, 1 dc in each 3,5,3,1 ch'. I ended up 166 dc not 165 doc. What I am doing wrong and can you explain. Thank you!

DROPS Design 24.09.2018 kl. 09:19:

Dear Mrs Renell, in the first size crochet 207 chains, then crochet 1 dc in 4th ch from hook (= 2 dc = as under CROCHET INFO you replace first dc with 3 ch), then crochet 1 dc in each of the next 4 ch (= 4 dc over 4 ch) repeat a total of 40 times (skip 1 ch, 1 dc in each of the next 4 ch) (= you work 4 dc over 5 chains): 2 dc + 4 dc + (40 x 4 dc ) = 165 dc. Happy crocheting!

Penny 13.12.2017 - 22:10:

Hi there. Love the pattern. My question is beginning the 2nd row, the pattern says to follow the chart at the arrow. The arrow is at the TOP of the chart? How can this be correct? It also states to repeat A.3 until 11 trebles remain, work A.4 over the next 7 tr, and finish A.5. A.4 has 9 tr and A.5 has 4tr. It doesn't add up. What am I missing.

DROPS Design 14.12.2017 kl. 08:51:

Dear Penny, you are right number of sts may have to be checked, just work: A.1, A.2, repeat A.2 until 13 sts remain and finish with A.4 and A.5, number of sts will add up. Happy crocheting!

J. T. 02.10.2017 - 14:20:

I have done first row and have 165 double crochets. I started with second row by the arrow and had to repeat A3 more often than 25 times. What am I doing wrong?

DROPS Design 03.10.2017 kl. 08:47:

Dear J.T., A.3 is worked over 6 dc, so that in the first size you will repeat A.3 a total of 24 times in other words over the next 144 dc. So that you will have from the beg: A.1 over the first 4 dc, A.2 over the next 6 dc, A.3 a total of 24 times over the next 144 dc, A.7 over the next 7 dc and A.5 over the last 4 dc = 4 + 6 + 144 + 7 + 4 = 165 dc. Happy crocheting!

Name 05.07.2017 - 18:36:

How to know how many skeins of yarn to purchase to make any/all of the sizes?? P.S. - I love the design & the sleeves, not as easy to find nice crochet tops that include the sleeves

DROPS Design 06.07.2017 kl. 00:44:

Dear Sender, The original modell is made of DROPS Paris yarn, which comes in 50 gramm skeins, therefore you would need 13 skeins for size S/M, 16 skeins for size L / XL, 18 skeins for size xxl, and 20 skeins for size XXXL. I hope this helps. Happy Crocheting!

Lorraine 10.08.2016 - 15:25:

Hi - I would like to use a 4 ply cotton to make this jacket. Can I double the beginning chains? Will the pattern work out? Many thanks Lorraine

DROPS Design 10.08.2016 kl. 16:17:

Dear Lorraine, this pattern has been written for a cotton 10 ply - see here. You will have to make a swatch and recalculate the pattern matching your gauge. Happy crocheting!

Benedetta 29.07.2016 - 14:06:

Grazie,preziose come sempre!Buona giornata!

Benedetta 29.07.2016 - 11:44:

Buongiorno, non capisco questo passaggio :'quando il lavoro Mis 37 cm aggiustare in modo che la riga successiva sia a m.alta e dal diritto del lavoro'.Grazie x l'aiuto

DROPS Design 29.07.2016 kl. 12:35:

Buongiorno Benedetta. Deve proseguire finché il lavoro non misura ca. 37 cm. Deve però anche verificare che la riga successiva da lavorare sia una riga tutta a m.a (riga 8 dei diagrammi escludendo la riga con la stella) e che questa riga venga lavorata sul diritto del lavoro. Quindi p.es: se a 37 cm la riga successiva coincide con la riga 7, lavora la riga 7 e poi la riga 8 separando il lavoro in davanti destro/sinistro e dietro. Buon lavoro!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 170-26

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.