The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
All measurements in charts are in cm.
= knit from right side, purl from wrong side |
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= purl from right side, knit from wrong side |
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= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches |
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= knit 2 together |
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= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch |
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= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Rocky Shores |
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Knitted jacket in DROPS Snow or DROPS Wish. The piece is worked top down with raglan and lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS 226-30 |
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------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth): Knit all rows. 1 ridge = knit 2 rows. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Find your size in diagrams A.1 and A.4 and the right size in A.3. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side. BUTTONHOLES (top down): Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). 1 buttonhole = work from the right side until there are 3 stitches left on the row, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole. The first buttonhole is worked when the rib on the neck measures approx. 4 cm = 1½". Then work the other 5-5-5-6-6-6 buttonholes with approx. 9 cm = 3½" between each one. INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced): To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 117 stitches) minus bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 8) = 13.3. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 13th stitch. Do not increase on bands. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker-stitch as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-stitch, knit 2 together, knit 3 (marker-stitch is the middle stitch), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased). BINDING-OFF TIP: To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 8th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches. ------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE. The neck and yoke and body are worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid front and top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down. NECK: Cast on 68-68-68-76-76-76 stitches (including 5 band stitches on each side towards mid-front) with circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75 and DROPS Snow or DROPS Wish. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, knit 2 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 4 cm = 1½", then work the first BUTTONHOLE – read description above. Continue working until the rib measures 8 cm = 3⅛". On the next row from the right side increase 1 stitch in each purled section by making 1 yarn over at the end of each purled section; on the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes = 82-82-82-92-92-92 stitches. Continue the new rib (knit 2, purl 3) for 4 cm = 3⅛". The rib is now 12 cm = 4¾", finish after a row from the right side. Change to circular needle size 8 MM = US 11, purl 1 row from the wrong side where you increases 3-3-3-5-5-5 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP = 85-85-85-97-97-97 stitches. Knit 1 row from the right side and purl 1 row from the wrong side (the bands are continued in garter stitch). Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the row. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! YOKE: The first row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1 (= 11-11-11-14-14-14 stitches) (= 16-16-16-19-19-19 stitches on the front piece), work 2 stitches in stockinette stitch (= raglan-line), A.2 (= 11 stitches on the sleeve), work 2 stitches in stockinette stitch (= raglan-line), A.3 (= 23-23-23-29-29-29 stitches on the back piece), work 2 stitches in stockinette stitch (= raglan-line), A.2 (= sleeve), work 2 stitches in stockinette stitch (= raglan-line), A.4 (= 11-11-11-14-14-14 stitches) and 5 band stitches in garter stitch (= 16-16-16-19-19-19 stitches on the front piece). You have increased 8 stitches; these increases are drawn into A.1 - A.4. When A.2 and A.3 have been worked 1 time in height, continue as follows (continue with A.1 and A.4 as before): BACK PIECE: Work A.5A over the first 5-5-5-5-5-5 stitches, A.5B over the next 24-24-24-30-30-30 stitches (= 4-4-4-5-5-5 repeats of 6 stitches), finish with A.5C over the last 6-6-6-6-6-6 stitches. SLEEVES: Work A.5A over the first 5-5-5-5-5-5 stitches, A.5B over the next 12-12-12-12-12-12 stitches (= 2 repeats of 6 stitches), finish with A.5C over the last 6-6-6-6-6-6 stitches. Each time A.5 is worked 1 time in height, there is room for 2 more repeats of A.5B between A.5 A and A.5 C. When A.1 and A.4 have been worked 1 time in height there are 189-189-213-225-249-273 stitches on the needle and you have increased 13-13-16-16-19-22 times. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! Continue working without further increases (working pattern as before) until the piece measures 18-20-21-23-25-27 cm = 7"-8"-8¼"-9"-9¾"-10⅝" from the marker on the neck. Now divide the piece for the body and sleeves and finish each piece separately. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 29-29-32-35-38-41 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 41-41-47-47-53-59 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 5 new stitches (= in side under sleeve), work 49-49-55-61-67-73 stitches as before (= back piece), place the next 41-41-47-47-53-59 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 5 new stitches (= in side under sleeve), work the remaining 29-29-32-35-38-41 stitches as before (= front piece). THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! BODY: = 117-117-129-141-153-165 stitches. Continue the pattern with 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side (first row from the wrong side). When the piece measures 24-24-25-25-25-25 cm = 9½"-9½"-9¾"-9¾"-9¾"-9¾" knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 8 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP = 125-125-137-149-161-173 stitches. Change to circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75. The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left, purl 1 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 6 cm = 2⅜". Loosely bind off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl – read BINDING-OFF TIP. The jacket measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20½"-21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜" from the shoulder down. SLEEVES: Place the 41-41-47-47-53-59 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 8 MM = US 11 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 5 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 46-46-52-52-58-64 stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the 5 stitches under the sleeve and start the round here. Continue the pattern in the round, but without further increases – make sure the pattern matches the stitches on the yoke – NOTE! The stitches which do not fit into the pattern under the sleeve are worked in stockinette stitch. When the sleeve measures 4 cm = 1½", decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker-stitch – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 5½-5½-4½-4-3-2½ cm = 2⅛"-2⅛"-1⅝"-1½"-1⅛"-1" a total of 6-6-7-7-8-10 times = 34-34-38-38-42-44 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 37-36-36-33-32-31 cm = 14½"-14¼"-14¼"-13"-12½"-12¼" from the division (or to desired length; there is approx. 6 cm = 2⅜" left to finished length). Change to double pointed needles size 7 MM = US 10.75 and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 6 cm = 2⅜". Loosely bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures approx. 43-42-42-39-38-37 cm = 17"-16½"-16½"-15¼"-15"-14½" from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way. ASSEMBLY: Sew the buttons onto the left band. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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Comments / Questions (21)
Anne Johnsen wrote:
Hei, jeg har strikket A1 og A4 1 gang og har nå 189 masker slik som nevnt i oppskriften. Jeg forstår ikke hvordan jeg skal fortsette med mønsteret uten å øke den og hvilken pinne av mønsteret jeg skal begynne med?! Dette er veldig uklart i beskrivelsen. Kunne dere forklare mer nøyaktig hvordan en strikker videre og hvilken diagram skal en følge. På forhånd takk!
29.08.2024 - 22:54DROPS Design answered:
Hej Anne, du fortsætter med det samme mønster, men undlader det sidste omslag mod raglanovergangen til arbejdet måler 18 cm :)
03.09.2024 - 14:45Esther wrote:
Hi Do I knit the 5 cast on stitches on the body in stocking stitch or incorporate into the chart pattern? It doesn’t say in the body instructions . Although it does say in the sleeves to leave the 5 stitches as stocking stitch. Thanks in advance for your help!
05.04.2024 - 15:02DROPS Design answered:
Dear Esther, the 5 cast on stitches are incorporated into the chart pattern of the body. Happy knitting!
07.04.2024 - 23:56Maria W wrote:
Samma fråga som Flavia(1a kommentaren), men förstår inte ert svar. När har man stickat A1&A4 en gång på höjden? Jag stickar stl XL, är det efter 32 varv där ett streck går för stl L-XL? Eller ska man sticka hela diagrammet?\r\n Men då fortsätter ju ökningarna, som det står i texten att man inte ska fortsätta med. Otroligt svårt att förstå.
14.10.2023 - 20:11DROPS Design answered:
Hei Maria. I str. XL avslutter du økninger der du ser streken i diagrammet. Når du har strikket A.1 og A.4 1 gang i høyden (32 rader av A.1 og A.4) skal du ha økt 16 ganger og ha 225 masker på pinnen. Strikk videre uten økninger til arbeidet måler 23 cm fra merket i halsen. Om strikkefastheten stemmer måler arbeidet ditt ca 22 cm når A.1 og A.4 er strikket 1 gang i høyden, og da strikkes det ca 1 cm uten økninger. mvh DROPS Design
23.10.2023 - 11:53Alena wrote:
V části RUKÁVY jsou chybně uvedeny počty ok: Odložených 35-37-38-40-40-42 ok převedeme z pomocné jehlice na ponožkové/ kruhové jehlice č.8 a navíc k nim nabereme po 1 oku z 4-6-8-8-10-10 ok nahozených v podpaží = 39-43-46-48-50-52 ok. správně má být: pro velikost S: 41 odložených ok + 5 ok z podpaží = celkem 46 ok.
23.12.2022 - 13:52DROPS Design answered:
Dobrý den Aleno, děkujeme za upozornění, opraveno. Ať se daří!
24.12.2022 - 13:42Alena wrote:
Dobrý den, prosím o radu: po dokončení sedla rozdělíme práci na trup, rukávy a zároveň přidáme 2x 5 ok pro podpaží. moje otázka - kdy začít plést tato přidaná oka? začít je plést v rámci trupu a rozšířit jej o ně? (trup by pak měl 127, nikoliv v návodu uvedených 117 ok.) následně je pak z okrajů nabrat i k doplnění spodní strany rukávů? (rukávy by pak měly v návodu uvedených 46 ok.) děkuji, alena
23.12.2022 - 13:51Atiya Gul wrote:
Can you plz show any video of this patern...
21.10.2022 - 07:26Bindy P wrote:
I am knitting drops pattern # 226-30 . I’ve competed the neck and I’m now starting the yoke. After knitting the first row I have the 8 increased stitches leftover at the end of the row. What am I doing wrong? Please HELP!
13.09.2022 - 21:57DROPS Design answered:
Hi Bindy, You do not say which size you are working, so we will take size S as the example. On the first row you have 5 band sts, A.1 (11 sts), 2 sts in stocking st, A.2 (11 sts), 2 sts in stocking stitch, A.3 (23 sts), 2 sts in stocking st, A.2 (11 sts), 2 sts in stocking st, A.4 (11 sts)and 5 band sts. 5+11+2+11+2+23+2+11+2+11+5 =85 sts, which is the number you have after increasing on the neck. Hope this helps and happy knitting!
14.09.2022 - 07:05Claudia wrote:
Was mache ich falsch? Wenn ich in der Passe A1 stricke ende ich mit einer rechten Masche. Anschließend kommen die 2 rechten Raglanmaschen. Das ergibt im Bild 3rechte Maschen, aber nur an der einen Stelle.
24.08.2022 - 21:59DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Claudia, das Diagram A.1 sieht spiegelverkehr aus, unser Design Team wird das mal prüfen und korrigieren. Danke für den Hinweis. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
25.08.2022 - 09:32Abelia wrote:
Bonjour, je tricote la taille L du modèle 226-30 (veste Rocky shores)et je pense qu’il y a une erreur dans le diagramme A3. En effet il manque un jeté au début de l’avant-dernier rang. Sans ce jeté on obtient 34 m au lieu des 35 m que l’on doit retrouver au dernier rang. Le diagramme A3 des tailles S-M-L est le seul qui ne comporte pas de jeté à ce niveau là du point ajouré. S’il s’agit bien d’un oubli, merci de me le confirmer.
08.04.2022 - 14:27DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Abélia, et merci pour votre retour, il semble bien que ce soit un oubli, nos stylistes corrigeront cela prochainement; merci pour votre retour. Bon tricot!
08.04.2022 - 17:21Berthelot Joelle wrote:
Je réalise le modèle en wish taille M, comme je suis petite j'ai raccourci de 5cm la hauteur de la veste et commandé10 pelotes soit 500g . Malgré cela il me manque une pelote pour pouvoir faire des manches longues. Le modèle est trés joli dommage!
01.04.2022 - 19:20