DROPS / 218 / 27

Abstract Rose by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater with round yoke in DROPS Nepal. Piece is knitted top down with textured pattern and double neck edge. Size: S - XXXL

  • Abstract Rose / DROPS 218-27 - Knitted sweater with round yoke in DROPS Nepal. Piece is knitted top down with textured pattern and double neck edge. Size: S - XXXL
  • Abstract Rose / DROPS 218-27 - Knitted sweater with round yoke in DROPS Nepal. Piece is knitted top down with textured pattern and double neck edge. Size: S - XXXL
  • Abstract Rose / DROPS 218-27 - Knitted sweater with round yoke in DROPS Nepal. Piece is knitted top down with textured pattern and double neck edge. Size: S - XXXL
  • Abstract Rose / DROPS 218-27 - Knitted sweater with round yoke in DROPS Nepal. Piece is knitted top down with textured pattern and double neck edge. Size: S - XXXL
  • Abstract Rose / DROPS 218-27 - Knitted sweater with round yoke in DROPS Nepal. Piece is knitted top down with textured pattern and double neck edge. Size: S - XXXL
DROPS design: Pattern ne-332
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 88-92-100-112-122-136 cm = 34 5/8”-36 1/4”-39 3/8”-44”-48”-53 1/2”
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"

All measurements in charts are in cm.
MATERIALS:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
400-450-500-550-600-650 g color no 8912, blush

KNITTING GAUGE:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 mm = US 9
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 mm = US 9: Length 40 and 80 cm = 16” and 32”.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm = US 6
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm = US 6: Length 40 and 80 cm = 16” and 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.90 $ /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 3.90 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 4.10 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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INCREASE TIP-1 (applies to yoke):
Increase with 1 yarn over after 1st, 3rd, 5th and 7th marker.
Increase with 1 yarn over before 2nd, 4th, 6th and 8th marker.
Work yarn overs twisted on next round to avoid holes. Work the increased stitches in textured pattern, i.e. work 1st increase in garter stitch, work 2nd increase in stockinette stitch etc.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over. On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge vertically = 2 rounds, i.e. knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

TEXTURED PATTERN:
* Knit 1, 1 stitch in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above *, work from *-* over all stitches.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

BIND-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight bind-off edge you may use a larger needle size. If this also is too tight – make 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch and bind off these as regular stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work neck edge and yoke in the round on circular needle from mid back, top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Then work body in the round on circular needle, and work sleeves in the round on a double pointed needles.

DOUBLE NECK EDGE:
Cast on 88-88-96-96-104-104 stitches with 1 strand Nepal on circular needle size 4 mm = US 6. Work rib (knit 1/purl 1) until piece measures approx. 11 cm = 4 3/8” (fold the neck edge double later, the finish neck will measure approx. 5 cm = 2”).
On next round work stockinette stitch while AT THE SAME TIME decreasing 8 stitches evenly on round = 80-80-88-88-96-96 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of round (= approx. mid back), measure yoke from this marker thread!

YOKE:
Switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9. Work TEXTURED PATTERN - see explanation above. When 2 rounds have been worked, insert 8 markers on round without working (insert all markers in a knit stitch) as follows:
Insert 1st marker in 7th-7th-9th-9th-9th-9th stitch.
Insert 2nd marker in 13th-13th-15th-15th-15th-15th stitch.
Insert 3rd marker in 27th-27th-31st-31st-33rd-33rd stitch.
Insert 4th marker in 33rd-33rd-37th-37th-39th-39th stitch.
Insert 5th marker in 47th-47th-53rd-53rd-57th-57th stitch.
Insert 6th marker in 53rd-53rd-59th-59th-63rd-63rd stitch.
Insert 7th marker in 67th-67th-75th-75th-81st-81st stitch.
Insert 8th marker in 73rd-73rd-81st-81st-87th-87th stitch.

On next round, increase 1 stitch at every marker thread – read INCREASE TIP-1 (= 8 stitches increased). I.e. Number of stitch before 1st marker, between 2nd and 3rd marker, between 4th and 5th marker, between 6th and 7th marker, and after 8th marker stays the same. Work stitches increased between 1st and 2nd marker, 3rd and 4th marker, and 5th and 6 marker and 7th and 8th marker.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Increase like this every other round 15-17-19-23-24-27 times in total, every 4th round 1 time in total and every 6th round 1 time in total = 216-232-256-288-304-328 stitches.
Piece now measures approx. 19-21-23-27-28-31 cm = 7 1/2”-8 1/4”-9”-10 5/8”-11”-12 1/4” from marker thread. Then work in stockinette stitch (size S-M-L), until piece measures 21-23-24-27-28-31 cm = 8 1/4”-9”-9 1/2”-10 5/8”-11”-12 1/4” from marker thread.

Now divide piece for body and sleeves as follows:
Work the first 31-33-36-41-44-49 stitches (= half back piece), slip the next 46-50-56-62-64-66 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 8-8-8-8-10-10 new stitches under sleeve, work 62-66-72-82-88-98 as before (= front piece), slip the next 46-50-56-62-64-66 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 8-8-8-8-10-10 new stitches under sleeve, work 31-33-36-41-44-49 stitches as before (= half back piece).

BODY:
= 140-148-160-180-196-216 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-8-8-10-10 stitches under sleeve in each side (= in the sides of body). There are 70-74-80-90-98-108 stitches between marker threads. Move the marker threads upwards when working; they should be used for increase later in the sides.
When piece measures 4 cm = 1 1/2” from division, increase 1 stitch on each side of every marker thread - read INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased).
Increase like this every 4 cm = 1 1/2” 3 times in total = 152-160-172-192-208-228 stitches.
When piece measures 26-26-27-26-27-26 cm = 10 1/4”-10 1/4”-10 5/8”-10 1/4”-10 5/8”-10 1/4” from division, increase 10-11-11-12-11-12 stitches evenly on next round= 162-171-183-204-219-240 stitches.
Switch to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and work rib = knit 1/purl 2.
Bind off by knitting when rib measures 4 cm = 1 1/2” - read BIND-OFF TIP!

SLEEVES:
Slip the 46-50-56-62-64-66 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 5.5 mm = US 9, and pick up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-8-8-10-10 stitches cast on under sleeve = 54-58-64-70-74-76 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-8-8-10-10 stitches under sleeve. Move the marker thread upwards, decrease on each side of this later. Continue in the round in stockinette stitch. When sleeve measures 3 cm = 1 1/8” from division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread - read DECREASE TIP (= 2 stitches decreased).
Decrease like this every 3-2½-2-1½-1-1 cm = 1 1/8”-7/8”-3/4”-1/2”-3/8”-3/8” 6-7-9-11-12-12 times in total = 42-44-46-48-50-52 stitches. When sleeve measures 32-32-31-29-27-25 cm = 12 1/2”-12 1/2”-12 1/4”-11 3/8”-10 5/8”-9 3/4” from division, increase 0-1-2-0-1-2 stitches evenly = 42-45-48-48-51-54 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6 and work rib (= knit 1/purl 2) in the round until rib measures 10 cm = 4”. Bind off by knitting.

Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold rib at the top of neck down on the inside of garment. Fasten rib to form a folding edge. To avoid a tight neck edge and avoiding the edge to tip outwards, it is important to make the seam elastic.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 27.11.2020
Correction: INCREASE TIP-1 updated.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 218-27) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (26)

country flag Marianne Klüglein 19.03.2021 - 19:38:

Kan ikke rigtig blive klog på, om STRUKTUR mønsteret strikkes i glatstrikning som udgangspunkt? Ud og indtagninger er jeg helt med på. Men det kniber med at forstå grundmønsteret!! Venlig hilsen Marianne Klüglein

user icon DROPS Design 23.03.2021 kl. 14:27:

Hej Marianne, strukturmønsteret strikke med hver 2. maske i glatstrik og hver 2.maske i retstrik (=vrang på hver 2.omgang). God fornøjelse!

country flag Hanne Rosgaard 01.03.2021 - 10:44:

Hej har jeg ikke ret i at i i denne opskrift har fået byttet om på måske og om gang i forklaringerne? I forklaring til retstrik står der omgang det skal være maske og i mønsterforklaring står der maske og der skal stå omgang. Jeg strikker og hækler ofte efter jeres opskrifter med stor fornøjelse. Mvh Hanne

user icon DROPS Design 01.03.2021 kl. 15:00:

Hej Hanne, Den maske du strikker i retstrik i mønsteret, strikkes ret på første omgang og vrang på anden omgang. Den maske du skal strikke ret, skal strikket ret på hver omgang så den bliver til glatstrik. God fornøjelse!

country flag Cecilia Ankarstrand 27.02.2021 - 10:42:

Hejsan Jag får inte ihop räkningen av maskor vid ökning av oket i stl M. 80 maskor ska ökas enligt beskrivning, 8 maskor varannat varv 17 gånger, (136 maskor ökade) Det blir 216 maskor och inte 232. Är det 19 ggr som den ska ökas? Då blir det 232 maskor? Tack för alla otroliga mönster som ni ger ut!

user icon DROPS Design 01.03.2021 kl. 09:45:

Hej Cecilia. Ja totalt ska du öka 19 gånger, så här står det i beskrivningen: "Öka så på vartannat varv totalt 15-17-19-23-24-27 gånger, på vart 4:e varv totalt 1 gång, och på vart 6:e varv totalt 1 gång = 216-232-256-288-304-328 maskor." Du ökar alltså på vartannat varv 17 gånger, sedan på vart 4:e varv 1 gång och på vart 6:e varv 1 gång. Så roligt att höra att du tycker om våra mönster :) Mvh DROPS Design

country flag Adriana Isabel Kesselman 25.02.2021 - 15:21:

Where can I find de corrections and updatings???

user icon DROPS Design 25.02.2021 kl. 15:34:

Dear Mrs Kesselman, if you printed the pattern after the correction date, online pattern is correct, otherwise it might be wise to print it one more time. Happy knitting!

country flag Margreet Verschuure 13.02.2021 - 20:06:

Ik snap het structuurpatroon niet goed: Ik ben net begonnen met de pas, maar snap niet hoe ik verder moet Moet je in een naald dan 1 recht, 1 averecht en 2 recht, 1 averecht, 2 recht enz. breien? Of moet je echt 1 naald 1 r, 1 avr breien en dan 1 naald recht en 1 naald averecht?

user icon DROPS Design 15.02.2021 kl. 10:43:

Dag Margreet,

Het structuurpatroon staat bovenaan bij de instructies beschreven en is steeds een herhaling van 1 recht en 1 ribbelsteek. (De ribbelsteek brei je op de ene naald recht en de andere naald averecht). Dus naald 1: 1 recht, 1 averecht. Naald 2: 1 recht, 1 recht.

country flag Linda 10.01.2021 - 21:04:

I slutet på halskragen : ”..stickas det slätstickning..” , är det då ett avigt varv? (Har svårt att förstå åt vilket håll kravgen viks). Angående strukturmönstrer, ”1 rätmask, 1 maska rätstickning (1 varv rätt o 1 varv avigt)”, betyder det - en rät maska, resten av varvet räta maskor + 1 varv aviga maskor? Om jag gör så tror jag det blir lodräta ränder (ej som på bilden) - tänker jag fel eller tolkar jag strukturmönstrets beskrivning fel?

country flag Hanne Schreiber 13.12.2020 - 14:15:

Har strikket abstract rose. iflg. opskriften 400 g str. S. Har overholdt strikkefastheden, men fandt så ud af at jeg havde for lidt garn, kunne bestille 1 nøgle mere med samme indfarvning + fragtkosten. Næsten færdig kunne jeg se at jeg manglede endnu et nøgle mere, men garnet var udsolgt. En alt for kort trøje. Ikke mere drops-design for mig og ikke mere Indkøb over nettet. Ærgeligt

country flag Susan Jakobsen 22.11.2020 - 10:46:

Hej. Jeg har snart strikket mange af jeres modeller og jeres opskrifter er nemme og gode, MEN her på det sidste har jeg haft problemer med at have købt garn nok, denne model strikker jeg i large. Og skulle bruge 500 g, altså 10 nøgler af det garn i anbefaler i opskriften, min strikke fasthed er overholdt( går en halv pind op) og er ikke færdig med de 4 udtagninger endnu og har 3 nøgler tilbage! Hvad gør jeg forkert ? Hilsen susan

user icon DROPS Design 24.11.2020 kl. 15:44:

Hej Susan, vi har ikke hørt at der skulle være for lidt garn til denne opskrift. Hvis du oplever at du har for lidt garn til en opskrift, så informere os gerne. Vi skal vide størrelse, strikkefasthed og mål og så hvor mange nøgler du har brugt. Så vil vi få mulighed for at rette opskriften. Tak for info :)

country flag Caroline Quidoz 21.11.2020 - 05:51:

Dans les instructions pour les augmentations de l’empiècement, il est écrit: Tricoter les augmentations en point texturé, c'est-à-dire tricoter la 1ère augmentation au point mousse, la 2ème en jersey, etc. Quand le point texturé est terminé, tricoter les augmentations en jersey. Est-ce que ça signifie qu’uniquement le 1 tour d’augmentation est fait au point mousse? Donc à partir du 2e tour ou il y a des augmentations et tous les autres, ils sont fait en jersey ?

user icon DROPS Design 27.11.2020 kl. 16:13:

Bonjour Mme Quidoz, cette information a été supprimée car elle n'est pas utile. Les augmentations se tricotent comme le montre cette vidéo. Bon tricot!

country flag Caroline Quidoz 18.11.2020 - 02:01:

Je ne suis pas certaine de comprendre le motif / le point texturé pour l’empiècement. (Je comprends quand et comment faire les augmentations.) Est-ce que j’applique le point texturé sur toutes les mailles ... donc rang 1 toutes à l’endroit et rang 2 : 1 m. Endroit, 1 m. Envers. Ou seulement sur les augmentations: rang 1 toute à l’endroit, rang 2 augmentation 1 envers ( pour faire un point mousse), augmentation 2 endroit, augmentation 3 env., ...

user icon DROPS Design 18.11.2020 kl. 08:11:

Bonjour Mme Quidoz, cette vidéo montre comment tricoter le début d'un pull similaire, avec le même point et les mêmes augmentations et devrait ainsi vous permettre de comprendre comment tricoter le point texturé en fonction des tours et des mailles/augmentations. Si vous avez une autre question, n'hésitez pas, bon tricot!

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