DROPS / 215 / 9

Lucky Clover Sweater by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater in DROPS BabyMerino. The piece is worked top down, with saddle shoulders and textured pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no bm-079
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 80-90-102-106-118-132 cm = 31 1/2”-35 1/2”-40”-41 3/4”-46 1/2”-52”
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"

All measurements in charts are in cm.
MATERIALS:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
350-350-400-450-500-550 g color 38, olive

KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5: Length 40 cm = 16” and 60 cm = 24” or 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch/pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1,5.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1,5: Length 40 cm = 16” and 60 cm = 24” or 80 cm = 24” for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
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DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 4.20 $ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 29.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge in height = 2 rounds; Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 110 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 24) = 4.58.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 4th and 5th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2:
INCREASE 4 STITCHES IN MARKER-STITCHES 1 AND 3:
Work 5 stitches in the purled stitch and move the marker as follows: * Purl the stitch, but do not slip it from the needle, make 1 yarn over the right needle *, work from *-* 2 times and purl the stitch 1 more time, move the marker to the last stitch worked (= 5 stitches worked in the same stitch).
INCREASE 4 STITCHES IN MARKER-STITCHES 2 AND 4:
Work 5 stitches in the purled stitch and move the marker as follows: Purl the stitch, move the marker to this stitch, * but do not slip it from the needle, make 1 yarn over the right needle, purl 1 stitch in the same stitch *, work from *-* 2 times (= 5 stitches worked in the same stitch).
On the next round, work the stitches into the pattern; i.e. purl the marker-stitch, the remaining 4 stitches are worked into pattern with 2 stockinette stitches and 2 garter stitches.
The next increase is in the purled stitch (marker-stitch).
Increase stitches for the front/back pieces. The number of shoulder stitches remains the same.

INCREASE TIP-3 (for sides of body):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over.
On the next round work the yarn overs twisted, to avoid holes.
Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, top down from mid back. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 110-116-122-126-134-144 stitches with circular needle size 2.5 mm = US 1,5 and BabyMerino.
Work stockinette stitch. When the piece measures 2 cm = 3/4”, increase 24-24-18-22-24-22 stitches evenly spaced on the next round – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 134-140-140-148-158-166 stitches.
Work 1 round in stockinette stitch.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5.
Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round (= mid-back); the yoke is measured from this marker!

YOKE:
Now work pattern, insert 4 markers (in stitches) and 4 marker threads (between stitches) as follows:
HALF BACK PIECE:
Work * 2 stockinette stitches, 2 garter stitches *, work from *-* over 16-16-16-16-20-20 stitches, purl 1 (insert marker 1 in this stitch; you will increase in this stitch later).
RIGHT SHOULDER/SLEEVE:
Work 1 stockinette stitch, insert 1 marker thread (i.e. between 2 knitted stitches), 1 yarn over, 1 stockinette stitch, * 2 garter stitches, 2 stockinette stitches *, work from *-* over 28-28-28-32-32-36 stitches, 2 garter stitches, 1 stockinette stitch, insert 1 marker thread (i.e. between 2 knitted stitches), 1 yarn over, 1 stockinette stitch.
FRONT PIECE:
Purl 1 (insert marker 2 in this stitch; you will increase in this stitch later), * 2 garter stitches, 2 stockinette stitches *, work from *-* over 28-32-32-32-36-36 stitches, 2 garter stitches, purl 1 (insert marker 3 in this stitch; you will increase in this stitch later).
LEFT SHOULDER/SLEEVE:
Work1 stockinette stitch, insert 1 marker thread (i.e. between 2 knitted stitches), 1 yarn over, 1 stockinette stitch, * 2 garter stitches, 2 stockinette stitches *, work from *-* over 28-28-28-32-32-36 stitches, 2 garter stitches, 1 stockinette stitch, insert 1 marker thread (i.e. between 2 knitted stitches), 1 yarn over, 1 stockinette stitch.
HALF BACK PIECE:
Purl 1 (insert marker 4 in this stitch; you will increase in this stitch later) and work * 2 garter stitches, 2 stockinette stitches *, work from *-* over 14-16-16-16-18-18 stitches and finish with 2 garter stitches.
On the next round, slip the yarn overs at each marker thread off the needle; this is so the stitches before and after the increases for the saddle shoulders are not tight.
Make 1 yarn over at each marker thread (between 2 knitted stitches) every 2nd round and slip the yarn overs off the needle on each subsequent round (number of stitches remains the same). Do this until the yoke is finished.
Continue with stockinette stitch over stockinette stitch, purl over purl and garter stitch over garter stitch.
On the next round, increase 4 stitches in each marker-stitch (i.e. purled stitches) – read INCREASE TIP-2 (= a total of 16 stitches increased).
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Increase like this every 2nd round a total of 0-0-3-3-4-5 times, then every 4th round a total of 6-9-9-10-11-12 times, every 6th round a total of 4-3-3-3-3-3 times and every 8th round 1 time (you have increased 11-13-16-17-19-21 times in total) = 310-348-396-420-462-502 stitches.
Continue with the pattern until the piece measures 20-22-24-25-26-28 cm = 8”-8 3/4”-9 1/2”-9 3/4”-10 1/4”-11”.
Now divide the piece for body and sleeves on the next round as follows:
Knit 44-50-57-59-67-75 (= half back piece), place the next 68-74-84-92-98-102 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8 new stitches under the sleeve, knit 86-100-114-118-132-148 (= front piece), place the next 68-74-84-92-98-102 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8 new stitches under the sleeve, knit 44-50-57-59-67-75 (= half back piece).

BODY:
= 190-216-244-252-282-314 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8 stitches cast on under each sleeve.
There are 94-108-122-126-140-156 stitches between marker threads on the back piece; allow the threads to follow your work onwards, they will be used when increasing in the sides.
Work stockinette stitch in the round.
When the piece measures 5 cm = 2” from the division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP-3 (= 4 stitches increased).
Increase like this every 2½-3-5-2- 2½-3 cm = 7/8”-1 1/8”-2”-3/4”-7/8”-1 1/8” a total of 7-6-4-8-7-6 times = 218-240-260-284-310-338 stitches.
When the piece measures 25 cm = 9 3/4” from the division, increase 2-0-0-0-2-2 stitches evenly spaced = 220-240-260-284-312-340 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm = US 1,5 and work rib (= 2 garter stitches/ knit 2) over all stitches.
Bind off with knit when the rib measures 4 cm = 1 1/2” – read BINDING-OFF TIP.
The sweater measures approx. 54-56-58-60-61-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24"-25 1/4", measured from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 68-74-84-92-98-102 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 3 mm = US 2,5 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 76-82-92-100-106-110 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 8 stitches under the sleeve. You will later decrease on each side of this marker thread.
Work pattern in the round, i.e. garter stitch over garter stitch, purl over purl and stockinette stitch over stockinette stitch. The new stitches under the sleeve are worked into the pattern (i.e. 2 stockinette stitches, 2 garter stitches). The stitches which do not fit into this pattern, are worked in stockinette stitch.
When the sleeve measures 5 cm = 2” from the division continue with stockinette stitch over all stitches.
On the first round of this stockinette stitch, decrease 2 stitches on each side of the marker thread – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every cm = 3/8” a total of 5-5-5-6-6-7 times, then every 4-3½-2-1½-1½-1½ cm = 1 1/2”-1 1/4”-3/4”-1/2”-1/2”-1/2” a total of 7-8-12-14-16-16 times = 52-56-58-60-62-64 stitches.
When the sleeve measures 41-40-38-38-38-37 cm = 16 1/8”-15 3/4”-15”-15”-15”-14 1/2”, increase 0-0-2-0-2-0 stitches evenly spaced = 52-56-60-60-64-64 stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm = US 1,5 and work rib (knit 2, 2 garter stitches) for 4 cm = 1 1/2”. Bind off with knit.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knitting direction

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 215-9) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (14)

Rossetti 20.10.2020 - 14:56:

Navree d'insister mais si on tricote 7x (2 points mousse, 2 point jersey) les mailles 13 et 14 sont des poinst mousse. Et on doit ensuite roujter 2 point mousse. Il y a donc 4 points mousse consécutif. Avez-vous une solution pour ce problème ? Merci

DROPS Design 20.10.2020 kl. 16:39:

Bonjour Mme Rossetti, oups, je transfère votre question à nos stylistes pour qu'elles puissent faire la correction nécessaire, désolée d'avoir mis si longtemps à saisir et merci pour votre insistance.

Rossetti 20.10.2020 - 12:12:

En me référant à votre commentaire de ce jour, il y a du coup une erreur pour le 2eme demi dos avec 4 maille point mousse consécutive (7x (2point mousse et 2 point jersey) +2 maille mousse) . Vous m'aviez expliqué différenent le 19 pour que ça convienne, mais ça ne convient toujours pas et il y a par conséquent toujours un défaut dans le dessin dans le dos. Avec vous une solution pour que cette erreur ne soit plus ? Merci de votre aide

DROPS Design 20.10.2020 kl. 13:21:

Bonjour Mme Rosetti, vous tricotez 7 fois (2 m point mousse, 2 m jersey) (= on a donc bien 14 mailles), et on doit encore tricoter 2 mailles point mousse pour terminer le 2ème demi- dos et le tour. Le 1er demi- dos commence par 2 mailles jersey = le motif tombe juste. Vous terminez le tour par 2 m point mousse et le commencez par 2 m jersey. Bon tricot!

Rossetti 19.10.2020 - 20:27:

Bonjour, j'ai essayé plusieurs fois de faire le dessin mais impossible, du coup j'ai calculé le nombre de mailles : 16Jersey/mousse+1Envers+1Jersey+1Jersey +28Jersey/mousse+2Mousse+1Jersey +1Jersey +1Envers+28Jersey/mousse+2Mousse+1Envers+1Jersey+1Jersey+28Jersey/mousse+2mousse+1jersey+1jersey +1envers+14Jersey/mousse=132. Il semblerait qu'il manque 2 mailles mais je ne sais pas a quelle endroit et quel type de maille. Ou est-ce moi qui me trompe, si oui à quelle endroit? Merci

DROPS Design 20.10.2020 kl. 10:30:

Bonjour Mme Rossetti, en taille S tricotez ainsi: demi-dos = (2 m jersey, 2 m point mousse) x 8, 1 m env (=marqueur-1) = 17m; épaule droite = 34 m (=1 m jersey, fil marqueur, 1 jeté, 1 m jersey, (2 m point mousse, 2 m jersey)x14, 2 m point mousse, 1 m jersey, fil marqueur, 1 jeté, 1 m jersey); fil marqueur; devant: 1 m env (= marqueur-2), (2 m point mousse, 2 m jersey)x14, 2 m point mousse, 1 m env = marqueur-3) = 32 m, épaule gauche = 34 m; Demi-dos:1 m env (marqueur), (2 m point mousse, 2 m jersey) x 7, 2 m point mousse (= 17 m) soit: 17+34+32+34+17 = 134 m. Bon tricot!

Rossetti 18.10.2020 - 19:46:

Bonjour, Je suis en train de tricoter ce modèle en S et au niveau du mi-dos je me retrouve avec 4 mailles en point mousse côte à côte ( ce qui semblerait être une rupture dans le dessin et cela ne semblerait pas centré) est-ce normal ?

DROPS Design 19.10.2020 kl. 09:31:

Bonjour Mme Rossetti, en taille S, vous commencez le tour au demi-dos par 2 m jersey et terminez par le 2ème demi-dos ainsi: 1 m envers, (2 m point mousse, 2 m jersey)x 3 (=12 mailles) et 2 m point mouse (= 14 m point fantaisie). Ainsi, votre tour commence après les 2 dernières m point mousse du tour et avant les 2 premières m jersey du tour. Bon tricot!

Anna 22.09.2020 - 17:26:

Buongiorno. Non mi ritrovo nel conteggio della divisione delle maglie dopo aver lavorato il collo e gli aumenti. Esempio per una teglia S dovrei partire con 134 maglie. Metà destra dietro 16 maglie Spalla/Manica destra 28 Davanti 28 Spalla/Manica sinistra 28 Meta dietro sin 14 16+28+28+28+14 = 114 e non 134 come indicato (La discrepanza dei conteggi è su tutte le taglie) Grazie per l'attenzione. Cordiali saluti Anna

DROPS Design 25.09.2020 kl. 09:05:

Buongiorno Anna, dopo il collo deve lavorare i paragrafi dello SPRONE esattamente come indicato e si troverà con il numero di maglie corretto. Buon lavoro!

Tove Jespersen 07.09.2020 - 06:19:

Ønsker denne opskrift

Susanne Wikman 06.09.2020 - 21:16:

Hej,\r\n\r\nDen svenska beskrivningen har en dansk(?) text i början med förklaring till beskrivningen. Texten ska nog inte vara där eftersom det där brukar stå en kort beskrivning av plagget

DROPS Design 08.09.2020 kl. 08:31:

Hej Susanne. Tack för info, detta är nu rättat. Mvh DROPS Design

Lis Fredborg 06.09.2020 - 11:22:

Hvor er opskriften?

Gitte Hansen 06.09.2020 - 10:02:

I mangler at lægge selve opskriften ind. Den er så fin.

DROPS Design 07.09.2020 kl. 13:29:

Hei Gitte. Takk for at du gjorde oss oppmerksom på at selve oppskriften manglet. Nå skal den være lagt til. mvh DROPS design

Renee Karlsson 20.08.2020 - 21:04:

Hej När blir mönstret tillgängligt? Vänligen Renee

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