DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g

Order

DROPS Buttons
Round (Blue) No. 621

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.65$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Little Brother Jacket

Knitted jacket for babies with raglan and stripes in DROPS Baby Merino. Sizes: Premature – 4 years.

DROPS Baby 33-32
DROPS Design: Pattern no bm-107-by
Yarn group A
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Sizes: (<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size is equivalent to the baby’s height in cm:
(40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104)
Size is equivalent to the baby’s height in feet:
(1ft4/1ft5) 1ft7/1ft8 – 1ft 10/2ft – 2ft3/2ft5 – 2ft7/2ft9 (3ft – 3ft3/3ft5)

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: (36) 42-48-52-56 (60-66) cm = (14¼") 16½"-19"-20½"-22" (23⅝"-26")
Full length: (21) 25-29-31-33 (37-41) cm = (8¼") 9¾"-11⅜"-12¼"-13" (14½"-16⅛")

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
(100) 100-150-150-200 (200-200) g color 43, light sea green
(50) 50-50-50-50 (50-50) g color 37, light lavender

KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stockinette = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1,5 for garter stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5: Length 40 cm = 16" or 60 cm = 24" for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1,5: Length 40 cm = 16" or 60 cm = 24" for garter stitch.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Round (blue) NO 621: (5) 5-6-6-7 (7-8) items

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Baby Baby Cardigans bottom up raglan round neck stocking stitch stripes

DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g

Order

DROPS Buttons
Round (Blue) No. 621

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.65$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge in height = 2 rounds; Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

INCREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Work until there is 1 stitch left before the marker, 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over (= a total of 2 stitches increased). The yarn overs are knitted twisted on the next round; no holes.

RAGLAN DECREASES:
All decreases are worked from the right side!
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over (= 1 stitch decreased). Decrease like this at each marker (= 2 stitches decreased at each marker and a total of 8 stitches decreased on the row).

STRIPES BODY, sizes (<0) 0/1 - 1/3 months:
4 rows light sea green
2 rows light lavender
2 rows light sea green
2 rows light lavender
Work with light sea green for 3-6-8 cm = 1⅛"-2⅜"-3⅛"
2 rows light lavender
2 rows light sea green
2 rows light lavender

STRIPES BODY, sizes 6/9 – 12/18 months (2-3/4) years:
4 rows light sea green
2 rows light lavender
4 rows light sea green
4 rows light lavender
2 rows light sea green
4 rows light lavender
Work with light sea green for 5-6 (8-10) cm = 2"-2⅜" (3⅛"-4")
4 rows light lavender
2 rows light sea green
2 rows light lavender

STRIPES SLEEVES, sizes (<0) 0/1 - 1/3 months:
3 rows light sea green
2 rows light lavender
2 rows light sea green
4 rows light lavender
Work with light sea green for 2 ½-6-7½ cm = ⅞"-2⅜"-2⅞"
2 rows light lavender
2 rows light sea green
2 rows light lavender

STRIPES SLEEVES, sizes 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years:
5 rows light sea green
2 rows light lavender
4 rows light sea green
4 rows light lavender
2 rows light sea green
4 rows light lavender
Work with light sea green for 6- 8½ (11-15) cm = 2⅜"-3¼" (4⅜"-6")
2 rows light lavender
2 rows light sea green
2 rows light lavender.

STRIPES YOKE (all sizes):
Work with light sea green for (3) 3-4 4-4 (5-6) cm = (1⅛") 1⅛"-1½"-1½"-1½" (2"-2⅜")
2 rows light lavender
2 rows light sea green
2 rows light lavender
Work with light sea green to finished length.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked bottom up. The body is worked back and forth, then the sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles, before the body and sleeves are put together and continued back and forth. The bands and neck are worked to finish.

BODY:
The piece is worked back and forth.
Cast on (90) 102-118-126-138 (146-162) stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side; the bands will be worked inside these edge stitches later) with circular needle size 2.5 mm = US 1,5 and light sea green. Work GARTER STITCH over all stitches – read description above, for (2) 2-3-3-3 (4-4) cm = (3/4") ¾"-1⅛"-1⅛"-1⅛" (1½"-1½"). Change to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5, continue with stockinette stitch and STRIPES BODY – read description above, with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! When the piece measures (10) 13-16-17-18 (21-23) cm (4") 5⅛"-6¼"-6¾"-7" (8¼"-9") bind off stitches for the armholes on the next row from the right side as follows: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, (19) 22-25-27-30 (32-36) stitches in stockinette stitch (= right front piece), bind off the next (6) 6-8-8-8 (8-8) stitches, work (38) 44-50-54-60 (64-72) stitches in stockinette stitch (= back piece), bind off the next (6) 6-8-8-8 (8-8) stitches, work (19) 22-25-27-30 (32-36) stitches in stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch (= left front piece) = (78) 90-102-110-122 (130-146) stitches. Lay the piece to one side and work the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
The piece is worked in the round.
Cast on (36) 36-36-36-40 (40-44) stitches with double pointed needles size 2.5 mm = US 1,5 and light sea green. Work GARTER STITCH – read description above for (2) 2-3-3-3 (4-4) cm = (3/4") ¾"-1⅛"-1⅛"-1⅛" (1½"-1½"). Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm = US 2,5 and insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round (= mid under sleeve) and continue with stockinette stitch and STRIPES SLEEVES – read description above. When the piece measures 4 cm = 1½", increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker mid under sleeve – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every (2) 1½-1½-1-1 (1½-1½) cm = (3/4") ½"-½"-⅜"-⅜" (1/2"-½") a total of (3) 6-8-11-11 (13-14) times = (42) 48-52-58-62 (66-72) stitches.
When the sleeve measures (9½) 13-15½-17-19½ (23-27) cm = (3¾") 5⅛"-6⅛"-6¾"-7¾" (9"-10⅝"), bind off the first and last (3) 3-4-4-4 (4-4) stitches (= a total of (6) 6-8-8-8 (8-8) stitches bind off) = (36) 42-44-50-54 (58-64) stitches. Lay the piece to one side and work 1 more sleeve.

YOKE:
Place the sleeves on the same circular needle as the body, where stitches were bind off for the armholes = (150) 174-190-210-230 (246-274) stitches. The piece is continued with stockinette stitch and STRIPES YOKE – read description above, with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. On the first row insert 4 markers in the piece as follows (row worked from the wrong side): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, (22) 25-28-31-34 (36-40) stitches in stockinette stitch, insert 1 marker, (30) 36-38-42-46 (50-56) stitches in stockinette stitch, insert 1 marker, (44) 50-56-62-68 (72-80) stitches in stockinette stitch, insert 1 marker, (30) 36-38-42-46 (50-56) stitches in stockinette stitch, insert 1 marker and finish with (22) 25-28-31-34 (36-40) stitches in stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Work (3) 0-0-0-0 (0-0) rows of stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
On the next row from the right side decrease to raglan on each side of each marker – read RAGLAN DECREASES! Decrease like this on each row from the right side (= every 2nd row) a total of (8) 11-12-14-16 (18-21) times = (86) 86-94-98-102 (102-106) stitches. On the next row from the right side decrease (10) 10-10-14-14 (14-14) stitches evenly spaced = (76) 76-84-84-88 (88-92) stitches.
Leave the stitches on the circular needle; now the bands are worked on each front piece and the neck will be worked over these stitches.

LEFT BAND:
The piece is worked back and forth.
Knit up (42) 58-68-74-78 (88-98) stitches from the right side, inside the 1 edge stitch mid front using circular needle size 2.5 mm = US 1,5 and light sea green. Work garter stitch for approx. 2 cm = ¾", then bind off; make sure the bind-off edge is not tight (you can use a size larger needle if necessary).

RIGHT BAND:
Work as for the left band but (4) 4-5-5-6 (6-7) buttonholes are worked evenly spread when the band measures 1 cm = ⅜" (1 more buttonhole will also be worked on the neck, so the first buttonhole on the band is approx. 3-4 cm = 1⅛"-1½" below the neck. There are approx. 4-6 cm = 1½"-2⅜" between each buttonhole. You can mark where the buttonholes should be, evenly on the band, before working them). 1 buttonhole = knit 2 together, 1 yarn over.

NECK:
Knit up 5 stitches over each band, inside the 1 stitch in light sea green and place all the stitches on circular needle size 2.5 mm = US 1,5 = (86) 86-94-94-98 (98-102) stitches. Work garter stitch for 1 cm = ⅜", then work 1 more buttonhole by knitting together the 3rd and 4th stitches from the edge and making 1 yarn over on a row (from the right side). Bind off when the neck measures 2 cm = ¾". Make sure the bind-off edge is not tight (you can use a size larger needle if necessary).

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under each sleeve. Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Have you finished this pattern?
Tag your pictures with #dropspattern or submit them to the #dropsfan gallery.

Comments / Questions (23)

Eva Kling wrote:

Jag har stickat en kofta i stl 12/18 månader. Enligt mönstret ska det gå åt 200 g av bottenfärgen men jag har bara använt 2 nystan (100 g). Min stickfasthet stämmer med mönstret. Garnåtgången borde kanske ändras till 150g i alla fall.

04.11.2024 - 13:55

Rita Andreasen wrote:

I den mindste størrelse hvor man sætter ærmer til ryg og forstykker skriver i at der bliver 150 m Efter man har lukket af til ærmer er ryg og forstykker 78 m og hvert ærme er 30 m. Det får jeg samlet til 138 m. Hvordan passer resten af opskriften udfra dette ?

04.03.2024 - 11:46

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Rita, du skal have 36 masker til ærme i den mindste størrelse :)

07.03.2024 - 15:05

Marie-Luise Brüggen wrote:

Hallo liebes Drops-Team, Wie bekomme ich die Ärmelmaschen auf die rumpfteilnadel ohne die strickteile zu überdehnen. Werden die entstehenden Lücken unter den Armen per Hand geschlossen (hierzu erfolgen keine Angaben), habe ich evtl. Beim zusammenführen von Rumpf- und Armteil einen Denkfehler ? Vielen Dank im voraus

22.02.2024 - 13:15

Liebe Frau Brüggen, in disem Video zeigen wir, wie man die Ärmel auf die gleiche Nadeln wie Rumpf strickt, die ersten Reihen sind oft etwas tricky aber nach einigen Reihen geht es besser, eventuell kann man die Magic loop Technik benutzen. Hier zeigen wir, wie man unter die Ärmel zusammennäht. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

22.02.2024 - 15:01

Melanie wrote:

Hallo liebes Drops-Team, mir geht es um die angegebenen cm-Angaben: gelten die für die gesamte Arbeit oder nur für den Abschnitt, den man gestrickt hat? Ich bin z. B. beim Rumpfteil und habe auf die 3er-Nadel gewechselt. Gelten die 10 cm (ich stricke

16.06.2023 - 09:11

Liebe Melanie, die 10 cm (in 1. Grösse) beim Rumpfteil für die Verteilung werden ab der Anschlagskante gemessen - Viel Spaß beim stricken!

16.06.2023 - 11:24

Olivia Mack wrote:

Hallo ich habe die Ärmel beim Rumpfteil dabei. Muss ich zuerst die Streifen Passe stricken und dann erst die Raglanabnahmen machen oder muss ich schon während der Streifen Passe die Abnahmen vornehmen?\r\nVielen Dank

17.04.2023 - 21:54

Liebe Frau Mack, die Raglanabnahmen stricken Sie gleichzeitig, dh während die Streifen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

18.04.2023 - 10:11

Pamela wrote:

I am unclear on how to pick up the button band edge. It says " inside edge stitch"? What stitch should be picked up? Is it the stocking stitch or the garter stitch? Thank you for any help.

19.07.2022 - 12:01

Dear Pamela, see this video tutorial - hopefully it would be helpful for you. Happy knitting!

22.07.2022 - 19:06

Louise Holme wrote:

På bærestykket, skal man tage ind totalt 12 gange i str. 0-3 mdr, men du tager 8 masker ind ved raglan på hver retpind, og det skal give 94 masker, men 12x8 giver altså 96 masker, enten læser jeg det forkert eller så har i været lidt for hurtige i matematikken 😂 men ellers en super nem og dejligt opskrift at sidde og lave

28.12.2021 - 18:00

Monica wrote:

Jättefin tröja och har kommit så långt att jag ska sätta fast ärmarna på rundstickan där fram och bakstycke sitter. Det går inte. Det blir ju alldeles för trångt. Ärmarna är stickade runt med strumpstickor. Hur får man dit dem på rundstickan. Har provat allt.

18.11.2021 - 16:54

Hej Monica. Det kan bli lite trångt de första varven efter man har satt ihop det. Du kan ev. använda en extra rundsticka eller magic loop tekniken för att underlätta. Mvh DROPS Design

19.11.2021 - 09:31

Lilly wrote:

Hallo, bei der Halsblende sollen je 5 Maschen aus jeder Blende "...innerhalb 1 hellseegrünen Masche...."aufgefasst werden. Soll ich aus 1 (einer) Masche 5 auffassen oder was ist mit "1" gemeint und wie wird es gemacht. Oder werden einfach nur 5 Maschen aus jeder Blende aufgenommen und mit den anderen verbunden? Vielen Dank schon mal für die Antwort!

25.10.2021 - 21:22

Liebe Lilly, Ihre letzte Vermutung stimmt: Sie fassen aus dem oberen Rand der vorderen Blenden pro Blende gleichmäßig verteilt 5 Maschen auf (also NICHT aus einer Masche 5 Maschen auffassen), dazwischen stricken Sie die stillgelegten Maschen wieder auf die Nadel. So wird die Halsblende dann um den ganzen oberen Rand angestrickt. Viel Spaß beim Weiterstricken!

26.10.2021 - 12:08

Hallo, ich bin gerade bei den Ärmeln nach dem Bündchen , wie wird der Markierer des Rundenanfangs gesetzt? Bei der Zunahme wird bis eine Masche vor dem Markierer gestrickt, ein Umschlag, dann 2 Maschen stricken, wobei der Markierer in der Mitte der beiden gestrickten Maschen liegt. Der Markierer sitzt auf der ersten Nadel des Nadelspiels, eine Masche vor dem Markierer wäre die letzte Masche der Runde davor, auf der letzten Nadel des Nadelspiels. Oder wird der Markierer nach Masche 2 gesetzt?

11.10.2021 - 19:08

Liebe Lilly, der Markierer soll zwischen der letzten Maschen und der ersten Maschen eingesetzt werden (nicht in einer Masche), so nehmen Sie zu: stricken Sie bis 1 M vor der Markierer/der Ende der Runde übrig ist, 1 Umschlag, 2 Maschen stricken (= die letzte Masche der Runde + die erste Masche der Runde), 1 Umschlag. Kann das helfen? Viel Spaß beim stricken!

12.10.2021 - 08:31