DROPS / 217 / 13

Easy Over by DROPS Design

Knitted vest with English rib in DROPS Air. Worked top down. Size: XS - XXL

DROPS design: Pattern ai-301
Yarn group A + A or C

XS - S - M - L - XL – XXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 102-110-112-124-130-142 cm = 40”-43 3/8”-44”-48 3/4”-51 1/4”-55 3/4”
Full length: 72-74-76-78-80-82 cm = 28 3/8”-29 1/8”-30”-30 3/4”-31 1/2”-32 1/4”

All measurements in charts are in cm.
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250-300-300-350-350-400 g color 03, pearl grey

11 stitches in width and 32 rows vertically with English rib = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 mm = US 10,75 : Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for English rib.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 mm = US 10: Length 40 cm = 16” for neck edge.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.60 $ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 6.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 6.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.



GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

See diagrams A.1 to A.4 (worked in English rib).

DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on round (e.g. 62 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 10) = 6.2.
In this example decrease by purling approx. every 5th and 6th stitch together.




Work neck edge and yoke in the round on circular needle from mid back, top down. Increase stitches for shoulder on yoke before dividing the piece, and work front and back piece separately until finished measurements.

Cast on 66-66-70-74-74-78 stitches on circular needle size 6 mm = US 10 with Air. Purl 1 round and decrease 10 stitches evenly – read DECREASE TIP = 56-56-60-64-64-68 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 7 mm = US 10,75. Work A.1 over all stitches. Continue until piece measures 9 cm = 3 1/2”.

Work pattern as follows: Work A.1 (= 2 stitches) over the first 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches (= half back piece), A.2 (= 2 stitches), A.1 over 14 stitches, A.3 (= 2 stitches) (= shoulder), A.1 over 10-10-12-14-14-16 stitches (= front piece), A.2 over 2 stitches, A.1 over 14 stitches, A.3 over 2 stitches (= shoulder), and A.1 over the last 4-4-6-6-6-8 stitches (= half back piece). REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, repeat A.1a vertically.
When 2 and A.3 have been worked 1 time vertically, repeat A.2a and A.3a vertically, i.e. continue increases every 6th round, work the increased stitches in English rib.
When A.2 and A.3a have been worked 8-9-9-10-11-12 times vertically in total, there are 136-144-148-160-168-180 stitches on needle. Work A.1a over all stitches until piece measures 24-25-25-25-26-26 cm = 9 1/2”-9 3/4”-9 3/4”-9 3/4”-10 1/4”-10 1/4” on the longest (i.e. measured along the shoulder), adjust so that next round is a purl round.
Now divide piece into front and back piece and bind off shoulder stitches as follows:
Work 26-28-28-32-34-36 stitches in English rib, 1 stitch in GARTER STITCH – read explanation above (= half back piece), bind off the next 15 stitches (bind off yarn overs as separate stitches), 1 stitch in garter stitch, work 51-55-57-63-67-73 stitches in English rib, 1 stitch in garter stitch (= front piece), bind off the next 15 stitches (bind off yarn overs as separate stitches), 1 stitch in garter stitch and work English rib over the last 25-27-29-31-33-37 stitches (= half back piece).
Cut the yarn.

Let the stitches on front piece sit on needle.

= 53-57-59-65-69-75 stitches.
Work as follows from right side: Work 1 stitch in garter stitch, A.4 (= 2 stitches) until 1 stitch remains (i.e. English rib begins and ends with 1 purl English rib stitch), and finish with 1 stitch in garter stitch.
Continue pattern back and forth. When piece measures 11-12-13-14-15-16 cm = 4 3/8”-4 3/4”-5 1/8”-5 1/2”-6”-6 1/4” from division, insert 1 marker in each side, use this for side seam later. When piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm = 26”-26 3/8”-27 1/2”-29 1/8”-29 1/8”-30” from the neck, bind off by knitting, bind off yarn overs as separate stitches (this is done to avoid a tight bind-off edge).

Work the 53-57-59-65-69-75 stitches on front piece as on back piece.

Begin at the marker in the side and sew back and front piece together from marker and approx. 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm = 8”-8 1/4”-8 3/4”-9”-9 1/2”-9 3/4” downwards. Bottom 22 cm = 8 3/4” = vent.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit
= worked from right side
= worked from wrong side
= make 1 yarn over, pass 1 stitch over on to right needle purlwise
= knit yarn over and stitch together
= purl yarn over and stitch together
= work 3 stitches in knit stitch and yarn over as follows: Knit yarn over and knit stitch together but wait to slip stitch and yarn over off the needle, make 1 yarn over on right needle, knit stitch and yarn over together 1 more time, slip knit stitch and yarn over worked off left needle = 3 stitches
= purl
= knitting direction

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 217-13) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (41)

Riitta Haukka 21.01.2021 - 15:14:

En ymmärrä miten kaarrokseen tehdään A1, A2, A3,(A4) neuleita, ja kuinka monella silmukalla??? Onko ohjeessa virhettä, kun silmukoiden lukumääräkään ei vastaa luotuja kauluksen silmukoita? Miten etenee takakpl olkapäälle, olkapää etukpleeseen, taas toiseen olkapäähän ja takakappaleen loppuun? Millaisia välisilmukoita heti alkuun laitetaan, vai laitetaanko ollenkaan??? Vastauksesta kiitollinen .

Eva Pedersen 18.01.2021 - 23:30:

I beskrivningen av halskanten står det: Sticka A.1 över alla maskor. Betyder det att man ska sticka varv 1 till 4 och sedan upprepa dessa fyra varv tills arbetet mäter 9 cm?

Marianne Schmidt 12.01.2021 - 15:21:

Kan jeg bruge easy care 50 g 185 m til denne opskrift...

DROPS Design 15.01.2021 kl. 15:41:

Hej Marianne, DROPS Air er bedst til denne opskrift :)

Josefine 07.01.2021 - 20:08:

Hej jeg forstår simpelthen ikke A1. Når man slår masken over to gange i streg som det står, så forsvinder den. Og hvordan strikker man dem vrang sammen med det samme når de er på højre pind nu? Mønsteret passer slet ikke til de forskellige patent mønstre der er henvist til. Hjælp.

DROPS Design 08.01.2021 kl. 10:22:

Hej Josefine, har du set videoen vi har lavet til denne opskrift?

Pia Jensen 07.01.2021 - 18:33:

Syntes ikke jeg Kan finde nogen mål på de forskellige str

DROPS Design 08.01.2021 kl. 10:19:

Hej Pia, jo nederst i opskriften finder du måleskitsen som indeholder målene i de forskellige størrelser :)

Rita Nygaard 07.01.2021 - 10:03:

Hej har lige strikket denne fine vest, vil lige skylle den op og centrifuger den let, ligner nu noget der er filtet, er det sådan det garn er, har strikket den i Air fra drops, kan stadig passe den efter jeg har strække den , men er ikke nær så flot efter jeg skyllede den i lidt vand.

DROPS Design 07.01.2021 kl. 16:02:

Hej Rita, nej hvor synd! Det er skiftende temperaturer og friktion som får uld til at filte... Det vil sige at det er utroligt vigtigt at vaske tøjet separat ifølge vaskeanvisningen. Du kan prøve at lægge det i lunkent vand max 30 grader med lidt balsam, så kan det være at fibrene glider fra hinanden igen... men husk at når du skyller, så skal det være i samme temperatur. Og husk at 30 grader ikke er lige så varmt som fingervarmt. Held og lykke!

Sylvie 07.01.2021 - 09:17:

Bonjour. Puis je faire ce modèle en aller retour au lieu de le faire en rond. Merci pour votre réponse

DROPS Design 07.01.2021 kl. 10:37:

Bonjour Sylvie, cette leçon explique comment adapter un modèle sur aiguilles droites, dans ce cas précis, il peut être bien plus simple de tricoter en suivant les explications et les vidéos montrant comment faire. Osez essayer les aiguilles circulaires, beaucoup les ont adoptées après avoir essayé. Bon tricot!

Cecilia 03.01.2021 - 21:48:

Hej! Jag stickar Easy Over och blir inte klok på A1. Vad betyder den diagonala fyrkanten på mönstret? Det står ”stickas från rätsidan”, på en rundsticka stickar man väl alltid från rätsidan? Ska man göra någon specialare där? (Jag ser att ”stickas från avigsidan” kommer på A4, samma fråga där.) Jag får heller inte mönstret att stämma när varvets slut ska möta varvets början, det blir inte ränder som det ska vid patentstickning. Tack på förhand! Cecilia

DROPS Design 14.01.2021 kl. 14:09:

Hej Cecilia, følg gerne videoen så du kommer igang med selve mønsteret, når du kan det kommer resten helt af sig selv. God fornøjelse!

Stephanie 02.01.2021 - 10:22:

Noch einmal als Frage formuliert :D Hallo, Diagramm A1, die zweite Runde beginnt laut Strickschrift mit einem Umschlag, dann eine links abgehobene Masche. Im Videotutorial werden zu Beginn der 2. Runde aber Umschlag + Masche links zusammengestrickt, dann erst Umschlag und links abgehobene Masche. Wie ist es richtig? Vielen Dank und Grüße.

DROPS Design 04.01.2021 kl. 15:27:

Liebe Stephanie, siehe Video, time code ca 1:25, Anfang der 2. Runde ist wie im Diagram = 1 Umschlag arbeiten, 1 Masche wie zum Linksstricken abheben. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Stephanie 02.01.2021 - 10:19:

Hallo, Diagramm A1, die zweite Runde beginnt laut Strickschrift mit einem Umschlag, dann eine links abgehobene Masche. Im Videotutorial werden zu Beginn der 2. Runde aber Umschlag + Masche links zusammengestrickt, dann erst Umschlag und links abgehobene Masche. Wie ist es richtig? Vielen Dank und Grüße.

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 217-13

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.