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  1. Free patterns
  2. Women
  3. Jumpers
  4. DROPS
  5. 213
  6. 17

Free Flow Sweater by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater in DROPS Bomull-Lin or DROPS Paris. Piece is knitted with lace pattern. Size XS–XXL.

Keywords: bottom up, lace, long sleeves, round neck, sewn in sleeves, sweater

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DROPS 213-17
DROPS design: Pattern no L-156
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
XS - S - M - L - XL – XXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 92-104-108-118-124-136 cm = 36 1/4”-41”-42 1/2”-46 1/2”-48 3/4”-53 1/2”
Full length: 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS BOMULL-LIN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
400-450-500-550-600-650 g color 03, light beige

Or use:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
500-500-550-650-700-750 g color 26, beige

KNITTING GAUGE:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 mm = US 9
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 mm = US 9: Length 40 and 80 cm = 16” and 32” for stockinette stitch/ pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm = US 8
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm = US 8: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for garter stitch.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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53% Cotton, 47% Linen 		from 3.45 $ /50g
DROPS Bomull-Lin uni colour DROPS Bomull-Lin uni colour 3.45 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.60$. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge vertically = 2 rounds, i.e. knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Body is worked in the round on circular needle up to armhole. Then bind off stitches for armholes in each side and work front pieces and back piece back and forth separately. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle.

BODY:
Cast on 146-166-174-190-198-218 stitches on circular needles size 5 mm = US 8 with Bomull-Lin or Paris. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9. Insert 1 marker thread in each side, i.e. insert a marker thread at the beginning of round and 1 marker thread after 73-83-87-95-99-109 stitches. Move marker threads upwards when working.
Work pattern as follows: * Knit 3-2-4-2-4-3, A.1 over the next 60-72-72-84-84-96 stitches (= 5-6-6-7-7-8 repetitions of 12 stitches), A.2 over the next 6 stitches (= 1 repetition of 6 stitches), knit 4-3-5-3-5-4 *, work from *-* 1 more time on round. Continue in the round with pattern like this.
NOTE! On 5th round/row in A.1 work 1 more knit stitch between marker thread in the side and first stitch in A.1.
On 15th round/row in A.2 work 1 knit stitch less between last stitch in A.2 and marker thread in the side.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm = 13”-13 3/8”-13 3/4”-14 1/4”-14 1/2”-15” - adjust so that next round is a round without pattern, bind off 2 stitches in each side, i.e. 1 stitch on each side of marker thread in each side.

BACK PIECE:
= 71-81-85-93-97-107 stitches. Work first row as follows from right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 1-0-2-0-2-1, work pattern as before over the next 66-78-78-90-90-102 stitches, knit 2-1-3-1-3-2, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this.
When piece measures 39-41-42-44-45-47 cm = 15 1/4”-16 1/8”-16 1/2”-17 1/4”-17 3/4”-18 1/2”, do not begin any more lace patterns vertically. When last lace pattern has been worked, continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side.
When piece measures 47-49-51-53-55-57 cm = 18 1/2”-19 1/4”-20”-21”-21 5/8”-22 1/2”, bind off the middle 23-23-23-25-25-27 stitches for neck and finish each shoulder separately. On next row from the neck, bind off 1 stitch = 23-28-30-33-35-39 stitches. When piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8", bind off all stitches. Work the other shoulder the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
= 71-81-85-93-97-107 stitches. Work pattern the same way as on back piece.
When piece measures 39-41-42-44-45-47 cm = 15 1/4”-16 1/8”-16 1/2”-17 1/4”-17 3/4”-18 1/2”, do not begin any more lace patterns vertically. When last lace pattern has been worked, continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side.
When piece measures 43-45-46-48-49-51 cm = 17”-17 3/4”-18”-19”-20”, slip the middle 13-13-13-15-15-17 stitches on a stitch holder for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then bind off stitches on every row from neck as follows: Bind off 3 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 1 time = 23-28-30-33-35-39 stitches. When piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8", bind off all stitches. Work the other shoulder the same way.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 35-35-37-39-41-41 stitches on double pointed needles size 5 mm = US 8 with Bomull-Lin or Paris. Work 2 ridges. Switch to double pointed needles size 5.5 mm = US 9. Insert a marker thread at beginning of round (= mid under sleeve). Work pattern as follows: Knit 13-13-14-15-16-16, A.3 (= 9 stitches) knit 13-13-14-15-16-16. Work pattern in the round as follows. When piece measures 8-8-8-9-9-9 cm = 3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/2”-3 1/2”-3 1/2”, increase 2 stitches under sleeve - read INCREASE TIP! Increase like this approx. every 4-3½-3-2½-2½-2 cm = 1 1/2”-1 1/4”-1 1/8”-7/8”-7/8”-3/4” 10-11-12-13-13-15 times in total = 55-57-61-65-67-71 stitches. When sleeve measures 43-41-40-39-39-36 cm = 17”-16 1/8”-15 3/4”-15 1/4”-15 1/4”-14 1/4”, do not begin any more lace patterns vertically (this way the sleeve isn’t bind off in the middle of working a lace pattern). Continue in the round in stockinette stitch. When sleeve measures 48-46-45-44-44-41 cm = 19”-18”-17 3/4”-17 1/4”-17 1/4”-16 1/8”, bind off all stitches. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams with grafting/kitchener stitches inside bind-off edge. Sew sleeves in body inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on body and inside bind-off edge on sleeve. Fasten off.
Bomull-Lin will be more even and look better after it has been washed. When the garment is finished, soak it, stretch it to correct measurements - see chart, and leave it to dry flat.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up 62 to 72 stitches around the neck on a short circular needle size 5 mm = US 8 with Bomull-Lin or Paris. Work 2 ridges, then knit 1 round. Bind off by purling.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next round knit yarn over to make holes. When working back and forth, purl yarn over on next row (i.e. from wrong side) to make holes.
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 213-17) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (31)

country flag Sara Maria Luisa Pompei wrote:

Buongiorno, Ho un problema. Sto seguendo il modello Free Flow Sweater della drop ma con cotone Belle verde muschio. Ho fatto tutti i calcoli in base alla lunghezza di un gomitolo di filato ma ora, dopo aver lavorato in tondo i primi 8,5 cm, ho già esaurito un gomitolo. E ne ho comprati solo 8. Facendo i conti, rimarrebbero incompiute le maniche. Mi chiedevo se potesse darmi una mano a capire quanti gomitoli devo acquistare

15.03.2023 - 12:10

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Sara, quale taglia sta eseguendo? Ha controllato che il suo campione corrispondesse a quello indicato prima di iniziare il lavoro? Buon lavoro!

15.03.2023 - 16:56

country flag Hjørgunn Brown wrote:

Finner ikke diagrammet

01.02.2023 - 16:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Hjørgunn, Diagrammene finner du på bunnen av oppskriften. God fornøyelse!

02.02.2023 - 06:55

country flag Karin wrote:

Er staat bij het voorpand bij 46 cm hoogte zet 13 steken op een hulpdraad voor de hals(maat m). Ga dan met de schouders apart verder en kant bij een hoogte van 54 cm alle steken af. Maar hoe kant ik de steken die op de hulpdraad staan en volgens mij dus niet verder zijn gebreid dan af?

22.06.2021 - 20:44

country flag Argentina Tomarchio wrote:

Buongiorno, mi scuso ma non riesco a comprendere la NOTA relativa al 5 giro del CORPO. Al quinto giro l'istruzione dice di lavorare una maglia diritto in più ma nello schema il totale delle maglie di A1 + A2 fa 17 (5+12) quindi sembrerebbe una in meno non in più. Inoltre dice di lavorare questa maglia in più tra il segnapunti a lato (?) e la prima maglia di A1 ma tra il segnapunti e lo schema A1 ci sono 4 maglie a diritto. Grazie mille della pazienza :) Saluti Argentina

16.06.2021 - 08:36

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Argentina, deve lavorare a maglia rasata la 1° maglia di A.1, poi lavorare le 12 maglie di A.1 e poi continuare. Buon lavoro!

16.06.2021 - 19:45

country flag Marlène wrote:

Bonjour, et merci 😊 je viens de finir mon pull... j‘adore... vos explications sont tellement claires et en plus toutes vos vidéos sont vraiment bien faites. C’est un vrai plaisir! Je suis enchantée par votre site. Un grand bravo pour cet immense travail 👍 Cordiales salutations de la Suisse

28.05.2021 - 19:51

country flag Cecile Dadachanji wrote:

Bonjour, je n\'arrive pas a passer le 5eme rang. Il y aurait-il une autre maniere de l'expliquer. Si on tricotte A1 comme sur les 12 premieres mailles comme indique, le motif est decale. J ai bien lu votre reponse a Rachel-Louise mais pour moi ca marche sur les repetitions de A1 mais pas sur les 12 premieres mailles. Help!

16.03.2021 - 20:54

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Dadachanji, la 1ère maille de A.1 doit être tricotée en jersey, autrement dit, tricotez les 12 m du 1er A.1 comme dans le diagramme (= avec la 1ère du 1er en jersey), et tricotez la 12ème maille du 1er A.1 avec la 1ère m du A.1 suivant (ou de A.2 à la fin des motifs). Vous avez ainsi toujours bien 12 m dans chaque A.1 (la diminution à la fin de A.1 = 1ère m du A.1 suivant). Bon tricot!

17.03.2021 - 08:17

country flag Valentina wrote:

Buongiorno. Ma è possibile eseguire il lavoro con i ferri normali invece che con quelli circolari? Grazie

30.11.2020 - 12:08

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Valentina, se preferisce può lavorarlo in piano, adattando lo schema. Buon lavoro!

30.11.2020 - 13:25

country flag Irene wrote:

Salve, vorrei istruzioni un po' piu' dettagliate sul bloccaggio finale. Devo completamente immergere il maglione nell'acqua, tamponarlo con un asciugamano e farlo asciugare in piano?

08.09.2020 - 08:26

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Irene. Sì esatto, deve bagnare completamente il capo, far uscire più acqua possibile senza torcerlo e farlo asciugare in piano portandolo alle misure indicate. Buon lavoro!

08.09.2020 - 13:35

country flag Pia Wiingreen wrote:

Hej. Jeg er startet på blusen men forstår ikke hvordan den bliver asymmetrisk. Den er meget bred og maskeantallet er jo det samme hele vejen til ærmegab. Lyder det rigtigt? Jeg er ked af at fortsætte hvis jeg laver fejl.

14.07.2020 - 15:42

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Pia, blusen er ikke asymmetrisk, det er kun fordi den er lidt bred at den hænger ned i den ene side. Du ser blusens mål nederst i måleskitsen. God fornøjelse!

28.07.2020 - 13:59

country flag Louise-Rachel wrote:

Toujours un problème la taille de mon patron est Medium et je ne sais pourquoi je n’arrive pas à créer le modèle, tout au long de mon tour. Le rang 5 ou on doit ajouter 1 maille avant le modèle a1 en serait-il la cause? Merci j’ai besoin d’aide. Louise-Rachel

28.06.2020 - 13:53

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Louise-Rachel, au 5ème rang, la première maille du 1er A.1 se tricote à l'endroit (= en jersey), tricotez ensuite le point ajouré en terminant par 1 jeté (= dernière maille du 1er A.1), glisser la dernière m de ce 1er A.1, tricotez la 1ère m du A.1 suivant , passez la m glissée par-dessus la m tricotée (= 1ère m du A.1 suivant). Répétez ensuite A.1 sur votre nombre de mailles comme avant. (au dernier A.1 en largeur, la diminution est maintenant la 1ère m de A.2). Bon tricot!

29.06.2020 - 08:26

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