DROPS Bomull-Lin
DROPS Bomull-Lin
53% Cotton, 47% Linen
from 3.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.25$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24

Eco Tote

Crocheted bag with lace pattern and double crochet groups in DROPS Bomull-Lin or DROPS Paris.

DROPS 211-28
DROPS design: Pattern no L-158
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
Measurements: Circumference: approx. 81 cm = 32” Length (without straps): 39 cm = 15 1/4”
Straps measure approx. 45 cm = 17 3/4”.

MATERIALS:
DROPS BOMULL-LIN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250 g color 05, brown
Or use:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300 g color 44, brown

CROCHET GAUGE:
16 double crochets in width and 9 rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 mm = US 7.
Hook size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger hook. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller hook.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Bomull-Lin
DROPS Bomull-Lin
53% Cotton, 47% Linen
from 3.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.25$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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CHAIN STITCH:
If you work at the end of crochet hook the chain stitch will often be too tight
1 chain stitch should be just as long as 1 single crochet/double crochet is wide.

CROCHET INFORMATION:
At beginning of every round with single crochet work 1 chain stitch, this chain stitch does not replace 1st single crochet. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in first single crochet on round
At beginning of every round with double crochets work 3 chain stitches, these 3 chain stitches do not replace 1st double crochet on round. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5.

INCREASE TIP-1:
Increase 1 double crochet by working 2 double crochets in one stitch. Increase 1 double crochet before and after marker thread in each side (= 4 stitches increased on round).

INCREASE TIP-2:
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 130 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 14) = 9.3. In this example increase by working 2 double crochets in approx. every 9th stitch.

3 DOUBLE CROCHETS INTO 1 DOUBLE CROCHET:
Work 1 double crochet in first stitch but wait with last yarn over and pull through (= 2 loops on hook), work 1 double crochet more the same way in each of the next 2 stitches, but pull last yarn over through all 4 loops on hook (= 1 stitch).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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BAG - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work in the round bottom up. Then work the bottom together.

BAG:
Work 114 chain stitches on hook size 4.5 mm = US 7 with Bomull-Lin or Paris and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch worked on round - read CHAIN STITCH.
ROUND 1: Work 1 single crochet in every stitch - read CROCHET INFORMATION, = 114 single crochets on round. Insert a marker thread at the beginning of round and a marker thread after 57 single crochets (= 57 single crochets between marker threads).
ROUNDS 2-5: Work 1 double crochet in every single crochet, AT THE SAME TIME on every round increase 1 double crochet on each side of both marker threads - read INCREASE TIP-1 = 130 double crochets. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! Then work with 1 double crochet in every double crochet until piece measures 9 cm = 3 1/2” from cast-on edge.
Work next round as follows: Work 1 double crochet in every double crochet and increase 14 double crochets evenly on round - read INCREASE TIP-2 = 144 double crochets.
Now work pattern as follows: Work A.1 (shows how round begins and ends), A.2 36 repetitions in total on round. When diagrams have been worked vertically, repeat the last 2 rounds until piece measures approx. 32 cm = 12 1/2” - adjust to finish after a round that is last round in A.2. Cut the yarn.
Now work back and forth in each side of bag follows:
Fasten strand with 1 slip stitch in double crochet before the last 4 chain spaces on round and work pattern from right side as follows: A.3, A.4 over the next 7 chain spaces, A.5 over the next chain space + double crochet after chain space. Continue back and forth like this until A.3 to A.5 have been worked vertically. Cut and fasten the yarn.
Fasten strand with 1 slip stitch in double crochet after the 10th chain space, counted from after A.5 worked in one side of piece. Work pattern as follows: A.3, A.4 over the next 7 chain spaces, A.5 over the next chain space + double crochet after chain space. There should now be 10 chain spaces between A.5 and A.3 in the middle of bag between sides worked. Continue back and forth like this until A.3 to A.5 have been worked vertically. Cut and fasten the yarn.

CROCHET TOGETHER AT THE BOTTOM:
Turn the piece so that right side is against right side and work bottom together at the bottom along the first chain stitch row worked. Work through both layers, begin from marker thread at the beginning of round and work 1 single crochet in every chain stitch. Cut and fasten the yarn.

STRAPS:
Turn piece again to work from right side.
ROUND 1: Fast yarn with 1 slip stitch in one side, in the middle double crochet (= 4 chain spaces on each side). Work 3 chain stitches (= 1 double crochet) - remember CROCHET INFORMATION, work 4 double crochets around each of the next 4 chain spaces, work 72 chain stitches (make sure that chain stitches are not worked too tight, chain stitch row should measure 45 cm = 17 3/4”), skip the 10 chain spaces in the middle of bag between the sides, work 4 double crochets around each of the 8 chain spaces along one side, work 72 chain stitches (make sure that chain stitches are not too tight, chain stitch row should measure 45 cm = 17 3/4”), skip 10 chain spaces in the middle of bag between the sides, work 4 double crochets around each of the last 4 chain spaces on round. There are no 32 double crochets in each side and 72 chain stitches for strap in each side = 208 stitches.
ROUND 2: Work * 1 double crochet in every double crochet until 2 double crochets before first chain stitch, work 3 DOUBLE CROCHETS INTO 1 DOUBLE CROCHET - read explanation above, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 70 chain stitches (i.e. until 1 chain stitch remains before next double crochet), work 3 double crochets into 1 double crochet, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 14 double crochets *, work from *-* 1 more time on round = 200 double crochets on round:
ROUND 3: Work 1 single crochet in every stitch. Cut and fasten the yarn.

Now work on the inside of strap around chain stitch row, edges and the 10 chain spaces as follows:
Work one side as follows:
ROUND 1: Begin with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch on the inside of one of the straps, work 1 double crochet in each of the 72 chain stitches - remember CROCHET INFORMATION, work 3 double crochets around each of the next 3 rows (= along the side on A.3/A.5, work 2 double crochets around next row, work 3 DOUBLE CROCHETS INTO 1 DOUBLE CROCHET the same way as earlier, but now work 1 double crochet in the last row and 2 double crochets around the first of the 10 chain spaces. Continue with 2 more double crochet around this chain space, and work 4 double crochets around each of the next 8 chain spaces, work 2 double crochets around the 10th chain space, work 3 DOUBLE CROCHETS INTO 1 DOUBLE CROCHET the same way as earlier, but work 2 double crochets around the last chain space and 1 double crochet around the next row, work 2 more double crochets around this row, work 3 double crochets around each of the next 3 rows.
ROUND 2: Work 1 single crochet in every stitch. Cut and fasten the yarn.
Work the same way around the other opening for strap.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 chain stitch - if you work at the end of crochet hook the chain stitch will often be too tight 1 chain stitch should be just as long as 1 single crochet/double crochet is wide
symbols = 4 chain stitches
symbols = 1 double crochet in stitch
symbols = 1 double crochet around chain stitch/chain space
symbols = at beginning of round/row work 3 chain stitches. When working in the round finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch from beginning of round.
symbols = begin on this round/row, previous round/row has already been worked
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (21)

country flag Mayra Alvarez wrote:

Buenas tardes,de casualidad hay un tuturial dónde paso a paso indiquen como hacer el bolso, gracias soy principiante y no entiendo los diagramas

05.11.2023 - 22:49

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Mayra, puedes encontrar todos los videos que te pueden ayudar a realizar la labor después de las instrucciones escritas. Para poder comprender nuestros diagramas puedes leer la siguiente lección: https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=69&cid=23.

12.11.2023 - 21:10

country flag Cintia wrote:

Buenas tardes, podría detallar me como se lee el patrón A3, serían 3 cadenas de inicio un punto alto cadena y punto alto sobre el primer arco. A4, 4 puntos cadena y punto alto sobre el arco 3 puntos altos sobre el arco siguiente y repito contando 7 arcos de la vuelta anterior. A5? Muchas gracias y saludos desde Córdoba, argentina.

05.09.2023 - 20:21

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Cintia, A.3-A.4-A.5 se trabaja como sigue: 3 cadenetas, *3 puntos altos en el arco de la fila anterior, 1 cadeneta,* repetir de * a * toda la fila hasta que quede 1 arco, 3 puntos altos en el arco, 1 punto alto en el punto alto de la fila anterior.

10.09.2023 - 20:06

country flag Emma wrote:

Bonjour! D’abord merci pour vos beaux modèles. J’ai un problème au moment de passer à A3: il faut joindre une bride avant les 4 derniers arceaux de quel tour? du nouveau tour ou du précédent? Ce n’est pas très clair… Merci!

22.08.2023 - 13:03

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Emma, le diagramme A.3 montre comment commencer les rangs: crochetez A.3 dans la bride avant les 4 derniers arceaux du tour précédent (de A.2), puis répétez A.4 et terminez par A.5 dans l'arceau suivant + dans la bride après cet arceau, et sur l'envers, commencez par A.5, répétez A.4 et terminez par A.3. Vous crochetez ainsi les côtés du sac, qui sont un peu surélevés par rapport au reste du sac que vous venez de faire = vous aurez 4 rangs en plus en hauteur de chaque côté. Bon crochet!

22.08.2023 - 14:17

country flag Chantal LONG wrote:

Merci beaucoup de votre réponse. J'avais fini par me débrouiller en comparant le diagramme A1 A2 et votre mannequin, et mon travail correspond à vos explications. Au moment d'aborder maintenant le haut du sac, je craignais d'avoir de nouvelles difficultés, mais je vois que vous avez donné les explications correspondantes à une autre crocheteuse. Cela devrait donc répondre à mes questions. Merci encore de votre aide.

31.07.2023 - 21:04

country flag Chantal LONG wrote:

Bonjour. Cela me rassure de constater que de nombreuses crocheteuses sont aussi perdues que moi. Pourriez-vous me donner en français les explications du diagramme A2, pour les 1er, 2e et 3e tours, en supposant que ces tours se répètent alternativement, jusqu'à la hauteur souhaitée ? Je pense avoir réalisé le 1er rang correctement, et suppose qu'il faut ensuite travailler le 2e rang en quinconce, mais le résultat n'est pas satisfaisant. Merci d'avance de m'aider.

23.07.2023 - 11:12

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Long, au 2ème tour de A.2, crochetez: *4 mailles en l'air, sautez 3 brides, 1 bride dans la bride suivante*, répétez de *-*. Au 3ème tour de A.2, crochetez *3 brides dans l'arceau de 4 mailles en l'air, 1 maille en l'air*, répétez de *-*. Répétez les tours 2 et 3. Bon crochet!

27.07.2023 - 12:00

country flag Katarina Tornborg wrote:

Hej och Tack för svar på min fråga- Men. Sista varvet på väskdelen är ju A2, dvs fyra lm och en stolpe som upprepas varvet ut och slutar med en smygmaska i föregående varvs tre lm. Så långt är allt väl. I A3 ska man börja med tre lm, i A4 fyra lm och 4 stolpar, en lm och A5, fyra lm tre stolpar plus en stolpe i maskan. Varf inns de sju luftmaskorna annat än i början på varvet? Hur många gånger upprepas A3-A5 innan man virkar tillbaka? Vänligen Katarina

01.02.2023 - 11:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Katarina, jo det er bare i början på varvet du får 7 lm :)

03.02.2023 - 11:27

country flag Katarina Tornborg wrote:

Hej!\r\nNågra frågor gällande utförandet av diagrammet A3–A5. Vad betyder det att virka A3-A4 över de sju luftmaskbågarna som finns var? Hur många ggr ska A4 och A5 upprepas på varvet – dvs sidan för att det sedan ska finnas 10 luftmaskbågar i mitten? Och var kom de ifrån?\r\n Det hade varit bra med bilder på på arbetet i olika stadier – det är ju en fin modell!\r\nvänligen Katarina

30.01.2023 - 22:50

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Katarina, A.3 over første lm-bue, så A.4 i de næste 7 lm-buer og sidst A.5 i næste lm-bue :)

31.01.2023 - 12:04

country flag Paola wrote:

Mi sbaglio o la spiegazione dell’interno dei manici al 1° giro appare non simmetrica? Inoltre perché invece di scrivere “ lavorare 4 maglie alte intorno al primo dei 10 archi” , scrivete “ lavorare 2 maglie alte intorno al primo dei 10 archi di catenelle, lavorare altre 2 maglie alte intorno allo stesso arco”?!? È molto. CONFUSING! Grazie Paola

04.12.2022 - 22:40

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Paola, al momento non sono riportate correzioni per questo modello. Buon lavoro!

28.12.2022 - 19:36

country flag Marcelle Marie-Claude wrote:

Je suis bloquée, pour la suite du dernier tour A2. Après avoir couper le fil. Je ne comprend pas. Je dois travailler que sur 7 arceaux A3, A4..... Je fais A3, puis A4, puis A5 en aller retour sur 7 arceaux ???

06.04.2022 - 19:09

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Marcelle, vous crochetez d'abord A.3 (début du rang sur l'endroit) dans la bride avant les 4 derniers arceaux du tour, puis vous répétez 7 fois A.4 (= au-dessus des 7 arceaux suivants), puis A.5 dans l'arceau + la bride suivante (fin de rang sur l'endroit), tournez, et crochetez: A.5 (début de rang sur l'envers), répétez 7 fois A.4 et terminez par A.3. Coupez le fil après ces 4 rangs A.3-A.5. Répétez de l'autre côté du sac. Bon crochet!

07.04.2022 - 09:37

country flag Susanne wrote:

Hallo Drops Team! Komme leider auch nicht ganz klar mit der Anleitung.. Es widerspricht sich die Häkelinformation mit dem Video.Im Video wird beschrieben das die 3 Luftmaschen am Reihenanfang als erstes Stäbchen zählt, in der Häkelinformation steht sie ersetzt nicht das 1.Stäbchen in der Runde. Verstehe ich leider nicht ganz.\r\nVielen Dank und viele Grüße aus Dresden

07.03.2022 - 13:38

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Susanne, hier sind ja 2 unterschiedliche Techniken benutzt, im Video werden die 3 Lm das 1. Stäbchen ersetzen, hier werden die 3 Lm extra gehäkelt. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

08.03.2022 - 11:28