DROPS / 212 / 4

Tulip Ring Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with round yoke in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with lace pattern and trumpet-sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-260
Yarn group C or A + A
-------------------------------------------------------

SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 88-96-104-114-126-138 cm = 34 5/8”-37 3/4”-41”-45”-49 1/2”-54 1/4”
Full length: 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250-300-300-350-350-400 g color 01, off white

KNITTING GAUGE:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch/pattern.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS WOODEN BUTTONS, Coconut NO 515: 6-6-7-7-7-7 items.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.60 $ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 6.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 6.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
-------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

-------------------------------------------------------

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.3). The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 84 stitches) minus bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 6) = 12.3.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 12th stitch. Do not increase on bands. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off and the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 4 stitches left on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and work the last 2 stitches. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the neck measures 2½-3 cm = 7/8”-1 1/8”. Then work the other 5-5-6-6-6-6 buttonholes with approx. 8½-8½-8-8-8½-9 cm = 3 1/4”-3 1/4”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/4”-3 1/2” between each one.

-------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

-------------------------------------------------------

JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 84-88-92-96-100-104 stitches (including 5 band stitches on each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and Air. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work A.1 over the first 5 stitches (= band), * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left on the row, knit 2 and finish with A.2 over the last 5 stitches (= band). Continue this rib for 2½-3 cm = 7/8”-1 1/8” – remember the BUTTONHOLES on the right band – read description above.
When the rib is finished knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 6-10-2-5-8-11 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP = 90-98-94-101-108-115 stitches. Purl 1 row from the wrong side (yarn overs purled twisted and bands worked as before).
Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9. Insert 1 marker after the band at the beginning of the row; the yoke will be measured from this marker!

YOKE:
Now work pattern as follows: Work A.1 over the first 5 stitches, A.3 - choose diagram for your size (= 10-11-12-13-14-15 repeats of 8-8-7-7-7-7 stitches), A.2 over the last 5 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When A.3 has been completed there are 220-241-262-283-304-325 stitches on the needle. The piece measures approx. 20 cm = 8” from the marker. Continue in the different sizes as follows:

Size S:
Knit 1 row from the right side (bands worked as before) where you increase 6 stitches evenly spaced = 226 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 21 cm = 8 1/4” from the marker. Then work the next row from the wrong side as described below.

Sizes M, L, XL, XXL and XXXL:
Work stockinette stitch back and forth (bands worked as before). When the piece measures 21-22-23-24-25 cm = 8 1/4”-8 3/4”-9”-9 1/2”-9 3/4” increase 7-10-9-16-18 stitches evenly spaced = 248-272-292-320-343 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 22-24-26-28-30 cm = 8 3/4”-9 1/2”-10 1/4”-11”-11 3/4” from the marker. Then work the next row from the wrong side as described below.

All sizes:
Now divide the piece for body and sleeves on the next row as follows: Work the first 36-40-42-46-51-56 stitches (= right front piece), place the next 46-50-56-60-64-66 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-8-10-10-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve), work the next 62-68-76-80-90-99 stitches (= back piece), place the next 46-50-56-60-64-66 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-8-10-10-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve), work the remaining 36-40-42-46-51-56 stitches (= left front piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE.

BODY:
= 150-164-176-192-212-231 stitches. Work stockinette stitch back and forth (bands worked as before). When the piece measures 23-24-24-24-24-24 cm = 9”-9 1/2”-9 1/2”-9 1/2”-9 1/2”-9 1/2” from the division, purl 1 row from the wrong side where you increase 18-20-20-20-24-25 stitches evenly spaced (bands worked as before) = 168-184-196-212-236-256 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and work rib as follows: A.1, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, knit 2 and work A.2. Continue this rib for 4 cm = 1 1/2”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read BINDING-OFF TIP. The jacket measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8" from the shoulder down.

SLEEVES:
Place the 46-50-56-60-64-66 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5.5 mm = US 9 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 54-58-64-70-74-76 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches under the sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing under the sleeve. Work stockinette stitch in the round. When the sleeve measures 4-4-4-2-2-2 cm = 1 1/2”-1 1/2”-1 1/2”-3/4”-3/4”-3/4” from the division begin to decrease under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 5-5-1½-1-1-1 cm = 2”-2”-1/2”-3/8”-3/8”-3/8” a total of 2-3-6-9-7-5 times = 50-52-52-52-60-66 stitches.
When the sleeve measures 15-14-12-11-9-8 cm = 6”-5 1/2”-4 3/4”-4 3/8”-3 1/2”-3 1/8” from the division (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke), knit 1 round where you adjust the number of stitches to 52-52-52-52-56-60 stitches (i.e. in size S increase 2 stitches, in sizes M, L, XL the number of stitches remains the same and in sizes XXL and XXXL decrease 4-6 stitches).
Now work pattern in the round as follows: * Knit 0-0-0-0-1-2, work A.4 *, work from *-* a total of 4 times on the round. When A.4 has been completed in height 68-68-68-68-72-76 stitches on the needle.
Knit 1 round where you increase 4 stitches evenly spaced in all sizes = 72-72-72-72-76-80 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 3 cm = 1 1/8”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures 35-34-32-31-29-28 cm = 13 3/4”-13 3/8”-12 1/2”-12 1/4”-11 3/8”-11” from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On the next row purl the yarn over – leaves a hole
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On the next row work the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 212-4) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (8)

Lillian B B Svenning 29.05.2020 - 19:02:

Hvorfor blir det bølger? Hva gjør jeg feil?

Lillian B B Svenning 29.05.2020 - 18:59:

Hvorfor blir det bølger? Hva gjør jeg feil?

Sharon 03.05.2020 - 02:31:

I have california 8 ply wool and wondered what needles to use and how many balls required for this pattern, thanks

DROPS Design 04.05.2020 kl. 12:30:

Dear Sharon, We are able to provide free patterns thanks to our yarns sold throughout the world. You will therefore understand that we can only recomand you to contact the store where you bought the yarn for any further help & assistance. You will find here our DROPS stores in USA. Thank you for your comprehension.

Lise 29.04.2020 - 22:11:

Der skal kun tages 7 masker ud på str M for at få de 248 masker til ryg-og forstykke. IKKE 10 masker, som der står i opskriften, og man skal IKKE have 272 masker.

DROPS Design 30.04.2020 kl. 09:37:

Hej Det står i oppskriften att du ska ta ut 7 m i strl M och du ska sen ha 248 m (strl M är den första siffran i det stycket, strl S är förklarat i stycket över). Mvh DROPS Design

Murielle Pham 07.04.2020 - 13:57:

Bonjour, je crois qu,il y a une erreur... Après le motif, en taille M, il y a 241m On doit faire 10 augmentations a 24 cm...donc 251 m et vous notez 272.... Ai je loupé quelque chose?? Merci

DROPS Design 09.04.2020 kl. 15:46:

Bonjour Mme Pham, en taille M, on doit augmenter 7 mailles (= dans ce paragraphe, la taille M est la 1ère taille), on aura donc bien 241 m + 7 = 248 m (et 272 m en taille L). Au paragraphe suivant, la taille M est de nouveau la 2ème: 40 m = devant droit, 50 m = manche etc... Bon tricot!

Isabelle 26.02.2020 - 10:36:

Cela a été un régal à tricoter; c'est comme tricoter un nuage. Les explications sont claires. L'ouvrage monte vite. La laine ne bouge pas au blocage. Moralité: je recommencerais à tricoter de la laine air. En plus elle ne bouloche pas!

Josee Simons 17.02.2020 - 00:26:

Hoeveel bollen voor maat 42, garen alpaca+zijde..25 gr per bol en 140 m lengte

DROPS Design 20.02.2020 kl. 21:09:

Dag Josee,

Begrijp ik het goed dat je 2 draden van kwaliteit A wilt gebruiken? Wat je kunt doen is naar de totale looplengte kijken. Bereken de totale looplengte die je nodig zou hebben om het vest in Air te breien en deel deze door de looplengte van de gewenste garenkwaliteit om de hoeveelheid bollen te berekenen. Dit doe je dan weer keer 2, omdat je met een dubbele draad breit.

Ainhoa Amorrosta 20.01.2020 - 01:05:

Parece todo muy detallado y me encantan vuestras lanas

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 212-4

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.