DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Christmas Calendar

Midnight Snow

Knitted socks in DROPS Lima. The piece is worked top down with Nordic pattern. Sizes 32-43 = 13-10 1/2.

DROPS 203-33

#midnightsnowsocks

DROPS Design: Pattern no li-112
Yarn group B
-------------------------------------------------------

SIZES: child- woman – woman - woman
US: 13/13 1/2 - 5/6 1/2 – 71/2/9 – 9 1/2/10 1/2
EU: 32/34 - 35/37 – 38/40 – 41/43
Leg height: approx. 19 - 20 - 21 - 22 cm = 7½" - 8" - 8¼" - 8¾".
Foot length: approx. 23 - 24 - 25 - 27 cm = 9" – 9½" – 9¾" – 10⅝"

MATERIALS:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
100-100-100-100 g color 8903, black
50-50-50-50 g color 0100, off white
50-50-50-50 g color 6273, cerise
50-50-50-50 g color 2923, goldenrod


KNITTING GAUGE:
22 stitches in width and 30 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5 for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

You might also like...

DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.
-------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

-------------------------------------------------------

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Choose the diagram for your size. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side and the whole diagram is worked in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP:
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needles (e.g. 52 stitches) and divide by number of decreases to be made (e.g. 4) = 13.
In this example decrease by knitting each 12th and 13th stitch together

INCREASE TIP:
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needles (e.g. 60 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 4) = 15.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after each 15th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

HEEL DECREASE:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit until there are 9-9-9-11 stitches left, slip the next stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, turn the piece.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Purl until there are 9-9-9-11 stitches left, slip the next stitch as if to purl, purl 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the purled stitch, turn the piece.
ROW 3 (= right side): Knit until there are 8-8-8-10 stitches left, slip the next stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, turn the piece.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Purl until there are 8-8-8-10 stitches left, slip the next stitch as if to purl, purl 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the purled stitch, turn the piece.
Continue to decrease in this way by working 1 less stitch before slipping a stitch and until there are 8-8-10-10 stitches left on the row.

-------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

-------------------------------------------------------

SOCK – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked top down and in the round with double pointed needles as far as the heel. The heel is worked back and forth and then the foot is finished in the round again.

SOCK:
Cast on 52-52-56-68 stitches with double pointed needles size 3 mm = US 2,5 and cerise. Knit 1 round, then continue with rib (knit 2 / purl 2) for 3-3-3-4 cm = 1⅛"-1⅛"-1⅛"-1½". Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm = US 4 and knit 1 round AT THE SAME TIME as you decrease 4-4-8-8 stitches evenly on the round – read DECREASE TIP in explanations above = 48-48-48-60 stitches. Knit 1 round. Then work diagram A.1 a total of 8-8-8-10 times in width on the round.
When the diagram has been worked 1 time in height work diagrams A.2 as follows: Work A.2A over 4-4-4-0 stitches, A.2B over 40-40-40-60 stitches and A.2C over 4-4-4-0 stitches.
When the diagrams have been worked 1 time in height work diagram A.3 (choose the diagram for your size) a total of 6-6-6-10 times in width on the round.
When the diagram has been worked 1 time in height finish the piece using only black and on the first round increase 0-0-0-4 stitches evenly on the round – read INCREASE TIP in the explanations above = 48-48-48-64 stitches. Work until the piece measures 19-20-21-22 cm = 7½"-8"-8½"-8¾".
Keep the first 12-12-13-15 stitches on the needle, place the next 24-24-22-34 stitches on a thread (= mid-top of foot) and keep the last 12-12-13-15 stitches on the needle = 24-24-26-30 stitches for heel. Work stockinette stitch back and forth over these heel stitches for 4½-5-5½-6 cm = 1¾"-2"-2⅛"-2⅜". Insert 1 marker thread then work the HEEL DECREASE – read description above! After the heel decrease knit up 10-10-12-10 stitches on each side of the heel and place the 24-24-22-34 stitches from the thread back on the needles = 52-52-56-64 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread on each side of the 26-26-28-32 stitches mid-top of foot. Work stockinette stitch in the round and decrease on each side as follows: Knit together the first 2 stitches after the 26-26-28-32 stitches mid-top of foot and knit twisted together the last 2 stitches before the 26-26-28-32 stitches mid-top of foot (i.e. work in the back loop of the stitch instead of the front). Repeat this decrease every 2nd round a total of 4 times = 44-44-48-56 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures approx. 16-18-20-22 cm = 6¼"-7"-8"-8¾" from the marker thread on the heel (= approx. 4-4-4-5 cm = 1½"-1½"-1½"-2" left to the toe). Insert 1 marker thread in each side so there are 22-22-24-28 stitches both on top of and under the foot. Continue in the round with stockinette stitch and decrease to the toe on each side of both marker threads as follows: 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits between these 2 stitches) and knit 2 twisted together. Repeat this decrease every 2nd round a total of 3-3-3-4 times and then every round a total of 6-6-7-7 times = 8-8-8-12 stitches on the needles. Knit all stitches together 2 and 2 = 4-4-4-6 stitches. Cut the strand and pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well.

Work 1 more sock in the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = cerise
symbols = off white
symbols = goldenrod
symbols = black
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.  

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!
Have you finished this pattern?
Tag your pictures with #dropspattern #midnightsnowsocks or submit them to the #dropsfan gallery.

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 203-33

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (5)

country flag Loles wrote:

Og jeg tror at jeg fant at feilen er på oppskriften? \"Legg opp 52-52-56-68 m på settpinner\"... jeg strikke den største og ser at kanskje det skule være 58 masker på pinne? Uffda, så mye jobb med mønster :/ bettyr at jeg må starte på begynnelsen.

18.11.2022 - 21:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Loles. Se vårt svar på ditt forrige spørsmål (ingen feil i oppskriften). mvh DROPS Design

21.11.2022 - 10:51

country flag Loles wrote:

Hei, jeg strikker etter oppskriften men størrelsen er gigant (fra begynnelsen, men mye mer når jeg øker),hva gjør jeg feil da? Takk.

18.11.2022 - 21:05

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Loles. Har du sjekket at strikkefastheten din stemmer med det som er oppgitt i oppskriften? I den største størrelsen legges det opp 68 masker ( ikke 58 masker), så strikkes det vrangbord i 4 cm. Vrangborden strikkes med 2 rett / 2 vrang og vil trekke arbeidet sammen. Når vrangborden er ferdig strikket, byttes det til pinne 3,5 og det felles 8 masker = 60 masker på pinnen, Når du da ser på den oppgitte strikkefastheten er 60 cm ca 27 cm. Og i str. 41/43 må man ha den omkretsen på en sokk. mvh DROPS Design

21.11.2022 - 10:50

country flag Laura Mork wrote:

Jeg vil gjerne stricker socken på størrelse 44/46 , hva skal jeg endre da?

11.01.2021 - 15:31

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Laura, Det er fotlengden du skal endre på. Fortsette å strikke til riktig lengde før du begynner å felle til tåen. God fornøyelse!

13.01.2021 - 07:54

country flag Tess wrote:

"Sticka de 2 första maskorna efter 26-26-28-32 maskorna uppepå foten räta tillsammans och de 2 sista maskorna före de 26-26-28-32 maskorna uppepå foten vridet räta tillsammans" Jag får det till att maskorna innan markören ska stickas vridet räta tillsammans och att de två maskorna efter markören ska stickas tillsammans, stämmer det att mönstret ska vara så? Stickade mina sockar på det sättet men tycker det ser lite roligt ut...

29.11.2020 - 23:26

DROPS Design answered:

Det stämmer att maskorna före markören stickas vridet räta tillsammans och att maskorna efter markören stickas räta tillsammans.

04.12.2020 - 14:21

country flag Margit Hovind wrote:

Hei. Jeg ser at «buene» på toppen av sokken (der det rosa stopper), ikke er med i oppskriften.

22.04.2020 - 20:57