DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g

Order

DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 46.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Ballet in Blue

Knitted wrap-around jacket with balloon sleeves in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk. Sizes S - XXXL.

Highlight Size:

DROPS 205-49

#balletinbluewrap

DROPS Design: Pattern no z-875
Yarn group A + A or C
-------------------------------------------------------

SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 82-90-98-108-120-132 cm = 32¼"-35½"-38½"-42½"-47¼"-52"
Full length: 36-38-40-43-46-49 cm = 14¼"-15"-15¾"-17"-18"-19¼"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200-250-250-250-300-300 g color 6790, dark blue
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-100-125-125-150 g color 21, cobalt blue

KNITTING GAUGE:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stockinette stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9: Length 40 cm = 16" and 80 cm = 32" for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7: Length 80 cm = 32" for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

You might also like...

Women Jackets & Cardigans Boleros Wrap Cardigans bottom up set-in / knitted in sleeves stocking stitch v-neck wrap-around

DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g

Order

DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 46.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.

-------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

-------------------------------------------------------

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1 (for sides of body):
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase on the inside of the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row (wrong side), purl the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole. Then work the increased stitch in stockinette stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for mid under sleeves):
Increase on each side of the marker thread as follows: Start 2 stitches left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over (2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP-1 (for the armholes):
All decreases are worked from the right side!
Decrease for the armhole on the inside of the 3 edge stitches in garter stitch as described below.
Decrease after the 3 edge stitches in garter stitch: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease before the 3 edge stitches in garter stitch: Work until there are 2 stitches left before the 3 edge stitches and knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).

DECREASE TIP-2 (for shaping of neck, front and back):
All decreases are worked from the right side!
Decrease for the neck on the inside of the 7 edge stitches as described below (edge stitches worked in garter stitch on the back piece and A.1/A.2 on the front pieces).
Decrease after the 7 edge stitches: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease before the 7 edge stitches: Work until there are 2 stitches left before the 7 edge stitches and knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).

DECREASE TIP-3 (for mid under sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).

KNITTING TIP (for sleeve length):
The length of the sleeves can be adjusted as stated in the text, but be aware that the sleeve length should be slightly longer than usual so the sleeves are a little baggy at the bottom.

-------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

-------------------------------------------------------

WRAP-AROUND JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The back and front pieces are worked back and forth with circular needle, bottom up. The sleeve cap is worked back and forth with circular needle, top down. Then the rest of the sleeve is worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles. The garment is sewn together and the tie-cords are worked to finish. The whole piece is worked in 1 strand Alpaca + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands).

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 60-66-72-81-90-99 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and 1 strand Alpaca + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands).
Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left on the row, knit 1 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 3 cm = 1⅛". Purl 1 row from the wrong side (edge stitches knitted).
Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 and work stockinette stitch back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When the piece measures 4-5-6-6-7-7 cm = 1½"-2"-2⅜"-2⅜"-2¾"-2¾" increase 1 stitch on each side – read INCREASE TIP-1.
Increase like this every 3-3-3½-4-4-4½ cm = 1⅛"-1⅛"-1¼"-1½"-1½"-1¾" a total of 4 times on each side = 68-74-80-89-98-107 stitches.
When the piece measures 17-18-19-21-23-25 cm = 6¾"-7"-7½"-8¼"-9"-9¾" work 2 ridges over the outermost 6-6-7-7-9-11 stitches on each side (the other stitches are worked in stockinette stitch as before). After the 2 ridges on each side, bind off 3-3-4-4-6-8 stitches for the armholes at the beginning of the next 2 rows = 62-68-72-81-86-91 stitches.
Continue back and forth with stockinette stitch and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch on each side.
When you have worked approx. 1 cm = ⅜" after binding off for the armholes, decrease 1 stitch on each side for the armholes (from the right side) – read DECREASE TIP-1. Decrease like this on each side every 2nd row (i.e. every row from the right side) a total of 2-4-6-9-11-13 times = 58-60-60-63-64-65 stitches left.
Continue with stockinette stitch and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 33-35-37-40-43-46 cm = 13"-13¾"-14½"-15¾"-17"-18" from the cast-on edge.
Now work garter stitch back and forth over all stitches.
When the piece measures 34-36-38-41-44-47 cm = 13⅜"-14¼"-15"-16⅛"-17¼"-18½" bind off the middle 12-14-14-15-16-17 stitches for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately.
Continue with garter stitch and decrease 1 stitch on the next row from the neck – read DECREASE TIP-2 = 22-22-22-23-23-23 stitches left on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 36-38-40-43-46-49 cm = 14¼"-15"-15¾"-17"-17"-19¼" from the cast-on edge. Loosely bind off with knit from the right side. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE (when the piece is worn):
Cast on 47-50-56-62-68-74 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and 1 strand of each quality.
Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side (i.e. from mid front): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left on the row and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 3 cm = 1⅛". Purl 1 row from the wrong side (edge stitches knitted).
Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 and work the next row from the right side as follows: Work A.1 (= 7 stitches), then stockinette stitch until there is 1 stitch left on the row and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern. In addition, increase in the side and decrease for the neck and armhole as described below.
INCREASE IN SIDE:
When the piece measures 4-5-6-6-7-7 cm = 1½"-2"-2⅜"-2⅜"-2¾"-2¾" increase 1 stitch in the side – read INCREASE TIP-1. Increase like this every 3-3-3½-4-4-4½ cm = 1⅛"-1⅛"-1¼"-1½"-1½"-1¾" a total of 4 times.
DECREASE FOR NECK:
At the same time when the piece measures 5 cm = 2" from the cast-on edge decrease 1 stitch mid front – read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease like this for the neck every 2nd row (i.e. each row from the right side) a total of 20-21-24-26-27-29 times and then every 4th row (i.e. every other row from the right side) a total of 4-4-4-4-5-5 times. DECREASE FOR ARMHOLE:
At the same time when the piece measures 17-18-19-21-23-25 cm = 6¾"-7"-7½"-8¼"-9"-9¾" work 2 ridges over the outermost 6-6-7-7-9-11 stitches towards the side. On the next row from the wrong side (after the 2 ridges) bind off 3-3-4-4-6-8 stitches for the armhole.
Continue with stockinette stitch back and forth, A.1 towards mid front and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole.
When you have worked approx. 1 cm = ⅜" after binding off for the armhole, decrease 1 stitch in the side for the armhole (from the right side) – read DECREASE TIP-1. Decrease like this every 2nd row a total of 2-4-6-9-11-13 times.
After all the increases and decreases there are 22-22-22-23-23-23 stitches left on the shoulder.
Continue working until the piece measures 35-37-39-42-45-48 cm = 13¾"-14½"-15¼"-16½"-17¾"-19" from the cast-on edge. Start from the right side and work 2 ridges back and forth over all stitches. Then loosely bind off with knit from the right side. The front piece measures approx. 36-38-40-43-46-49 cm = 14¼"-15"-15¾"-17"-17"-19¼" from the cast-on edge.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 47-50-56-62-68-74 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and 1 strand of each quality.
Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left on the row and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 3 cm = 1⅛". Purl 1 row from the wrong side (edge stitches are knitted).
Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work stockinette stitch until there are 7 stitches left on the row and finish with A.2 (= 7 stitches).
Continue this pattern. In addition, increase in the side and decrease for the neck and armhole as described below.
INCREASE IN SIDE:
When the piece measures 4-5-6-6-7-7 cm = 1½"-2"-2⅜"-2⅜"-2¾"-2¾", increase 1 stitch in the side – read INCREASE TIP-1. Increase like this every 3-3-3½-4-4-4½ cm = 1⅛"-1⅛"-1¼"-1½"-1½"-1¾" a total of 4 times.
DECREASE FOR NECK:
At the same time when the piece measures 5 cm = 2" from the cast-on edge decrease 1 stitch mid front – read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease for the neck like this every 2nd row (i.e. each row from the right side) a total of 20-21-24-26-27-29 times and then every 4th row (i.e. every other row from the right side) a total of 4-4-4-4-5-5 times.
DECREASE FOR ARMHOLE:
At the same time when the piece measures 17-18-19-21-23-25 cm = 6¾"-7"-7½"-8¼"-9"-9¾" work 2 ridges over the outermost 6-6-7-7-9-11 stitches towards the side. On the next row from the right side (after the 2 ridges) bind off 3-3-4-4-6-8 stitches towards the armhole.
Continue with stockinette stitch back and forth, A.2 towards mid front and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole.
When you have worked approx. 1 cm = ⅜" after binding off for the armhole, decrease 1 stitch in the side for the armhole (from the right side) – read DECREASE TIP-1. Decrease like this every 2nd row a total of 2-4-6-9-11-13 times.
After all the increases and decreases there are 22-22-22-23-23-23 stitches left on the shoulder.
Continue working until the piece measures 35-37-39-42-45-48 cm = 13¾"-14½"-15¼"-16½"-17¾"-19" from the cast-on edge. Start from the right side and work 2 ridges back and forth over all stitches. Then loosely bind off with knit from the right side. The front piece measures approx. 36-38-40-43-46-49 cm = 14¼"-15"-15¾"-17"-17"-19¼" from the cast-on edge.

SLEEVE:
The sleeve is worked top down.
Cast on 18-22-24-24-26-26 stitches with circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 and 1 strand of each quality. Work stockinette stitch back and forth for the sleeve cap and at the same time cast on new stitches at the end of each row on each side as follows: Cast on 3 stitches 1 time in each side, 2 stitches 2-2-3-3-2-2 times in each side, 1 stitch 1-1-1-3-5-7 times in each side, 2 stitches 3-3-3-3-2-2 times in each side and finally 3 stitches 1-1-1-1-2-2 times in each side = 52-56-62-66-70-74 stitches on the needle. The piece now measures approx. 8-8-9-11-12-14 cm = 3⅛"-3⅛"-3½"-4⅜"-4¾"-5½" from the cast-on edge.
Put the stitches together and continue in the round with double pointed needles or short circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round (where the stitches have been put together = mid under sleeve). Allow the marker thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing and increasing mid under sleeve. The sleeve is now measured from where this marker thread has been inserted.
Work stockinette stitch in the round. When the piece measures 3-3-2-2-2-2 cm = 1⅛"-1⅛"-¾"-¾"-¾"-¾" from where the marker thread was inserted decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP-3. Decrease like this every 4-3-2-1½-1-1 cm = 1½"-1⅛"-¾"-½"-¾"-¾" a total of 3-4-6-7-9-10 times = 46-48-50-52-52-54 stitches.
When the sleeve measures 16-16-15-15-14-14 cm = 6¼"-6¼"-6"-6"-5½"-5½" from where the marker thread was inserted increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 1½-1½-1½-1½-1-1 cm = ½"-½"-½"-½"-⅜"-⅜" a total of 14-14-15-16-17-18 times = 74-76-80-84-86-90 stitches.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 47-47-47-45-45-43 cm = 18½"-18½"-18½"-17¾"-17¾"-17" from where the marker thread was inserted (there is 5 cm = 2" left to finished length; you can try the sleeve on and continue to desired length – read KNITTING TIP). NOTE: Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider shoulders and longer sleeve cap.
Knit 1 round where you decrease 8-4-8-6-8-6 stitches evenly spaced = 66-72-72-78-78-84 stitches. On the next round knit all stitches together 2 and 2 = 33-36-36-39-39-42 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm = US 7 and work rib (= knit 1 / purl 2) for 4 cm = 1½". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl, but make sure the bind-off edge is not tight. The sleeve measures approx. 60-60-61-61-62-62 cm = 23⅝"-23⅝"-24"-24"-24⅜"-24⅜" from the cast-on edge. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside the bind-off edge. Sew side seams inside the 1 edge stitch but leave an opening on the left side of the jacket (when the garment is worn) to thread the tie through – the opening should be approx. 2½ to 3 cm = 1" to 1⅛" and starts over the rib.
Place the sleeves under the garter stitch edge along the armholes and sew down neatly from the right side (sew in the outermost garter stitch so the edge lies neatly on the outside of the sleeve).

TIE CORDS:
Knit up 7 stitches from the right side inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch along the edge of the rib. Use needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and 1 strand of each quality. Work garter stitch back and forth until the tie measures approx. 75 to 100 cm = 29½" to 39⅜", bind off. Work a similar tie on the other front piece.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

	= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
	= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next row purl the yarn over to leave a hole
	= knit 2 together
	= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch

© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

From the #dropsfan gallery

We have 1 version/s of this pattern in the #dropsfan gallery. Have you made it too?
Tag your pictures with #dropspattern #balletinbluewrap or submit them to the #dropsfan gallery.

Ballet in Blue

Ballet in Blue, France

Comments / Questions (15)

Lark wrote:

What does ridges mean in the part "When the piece measures 17-18-19-21-23-25 cm = 6¾"-7"-7½"-8¼"-9"-9¾" work 2 ridges over the outermost 6-6-7-7-9-11 stitches on each side"? I'm stuck trying to figure out what to do,,,,

04.07.2024 - 03:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lark, 1 ridge = 2 rows garter stitch, this means you will knit the 6-6-7-7-9-11 stitches on each side from both right side and wrong side, working remaining stitches inbetween as before - work a total of 4 rows like this, there are now 2 ridges on the outermost stitches on each side. Happy knitting!

04.07.2024 - 09:17

Luisa wrote:

Hola! Debo hacer la muestra con agujas de 5.5 o 4.5? Saludos.

05.06.2024 - 21:49

Hola Luisa, debe hacer la muestra con agujas 5,5. Saludos!

06.06.2024 - 09:13

Allison wrote:

How do you sew in the sleeves on the outside? I am stuck

07.02.2024 - 01:19

Dear Allison, in this video, we show how to sew a sleeve under the garter stitch edge. Happy assembly!

07.02.2024 - 08:32

Melody wrote:

Bonjour, pour le dos et les devants on commence les augmentations lorsque l'ouvrage mesure 4 cm pour la taille S. Mais les côtes sont-elles comprises dans ces 4 cm ou il faut compter 4 cm après les côtes, sil vous plaît? merci.

25.01.2024 - 17:47

Bonjour Melody, mesurez ces 4 cm à partir du rang de montage, autrement dit, 1 cm après les côtes en taille S. Bon tricot!

26.01.2024 - 08:23

Ofra wrote:

Is it possible to make the Wrap-over jacket longer and reach below the tummy? Would you mind writing an alteration to this pattern so I could knit it? Thanks in advance.

27.07.2023 - 19:34

Hi Ofra, At the moment there is just this shape in this particular pattern. But you can find other wrap-overs which are longer, if you search under Free Patterns. Happy crafting!

28.07.2023 - 06:52

Iris Lüscher wrote:

Bonjour, je ne trouve pas le guide des tailles? A quoi correspond la taille S? Merci

29.04.2023 - 09:59

Bonjour Mme Lüscher, pour trouver votre taille, mesurez un vêtement similaire que vous avez et dont vous aimez la forme, et comparez ces mesures à celles du schéma, ce sera la façon la plus simple de trouver votre taille. Retrouvez plus d'infos ici. Bon tricot!

02.05.2023 - 08:28

Esther wrote:

Ik kan de plaatjes niet meer zien op de website, ik zou graag de tekening met maten willen terug zien

25.09.2021 - 22:17

Lynn wrote:

Hi thank you for the reply to my question I just wanted to point out that it's the pattern that's incorrect. It says to increase at each end of every row on the sleeve cap but when I asked the question about why my sleeve cap was not measuring 14cm your reply was that the increase should be only on alternate rows. Frustrating as I have already pulled it out once here I go again!

30.05.2021 - 12:54

Dear Lynn, you will increase on each side, ie at the end of each row on each side ie on each side on every other row. You have to increase 14 times in total = a total of 28 rows in the largest size. Hope this will help. Happy knitting!

31.05.2021 - 08:25

Hi I am knitting the Ballet in Blue cardigan and am on the sleeve. It says in the pattern that when you have done the increases after the cast on when you get to 74 stitches the piece should measure approximately 14 cms from the cast on edge. Mine is nowhere near that and I've ripped it out and done it again and still nowhere near that! HELP! What am I doing wrong? Should i proceed in stockinette until it measures 14cm then join and knit in the round?

29.05.2021 - 21:56

Dear Lynn, from the 74 stitches I assume, you are making the largest size. If you add up the increases for the sleeve cap, by the time you get to 74 stitches, you should have knitted 28 rows (increasing in every other). If you keep the given gauge = 16 stitches and 20 rows = 10 X 10 cm, with 28 rows you should have about 14 cm length. Check your gauge. Happy Knitting.

29.05.2021 - 22:54

Rosa wrote: