Celtic Comfort by DROPS Design

Crocheted blanket in DROPS Air. The piece is worked in squares with cables and relief stitches.

Keywords: blanket, cable, patchwork, relief, square

DROPS 203-1
DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-232
Yarn group C or A + A
-------------------------------------------------------

SIZE:
The piece measures approx.: Width = 96 cm = 37 3/4”. Length = 122 cm = 48”.
1 square measures approx. 24 x 24 cm = 9 1/2” x 9 1/2”.

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
650 g color 03, pearl grey

CROCHET GAUGE:
13 double crochets in width and 10 rows in height (with pattern) = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5.5 MM = US I/9.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller hook size.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

Need help?
Print
- Pattern
- Photo

DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool

from 6.45 $ /50g

Order

	DROPS Air mix	6.45 $ /50g Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd	Order
	DROPS Air uni colour	6.45 $ /50g Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd	Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 83.85$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

-------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

-------------------------------------------------------

CHAIN STITCH:
If you work outermost on the hook the chain stitch will often be too tight; 1 chain stitch should be as long as 1 double crochet is wide.

CROCHET INFORMATION:
At the beginning of each row of double crochets work 1 chain stitch (in addition to the first double crochet).
At the beginning of each row of double crochets replace the first double crochet with 3 chain stitches.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5.

SQUARES:
Work 4 of each of the following squares:
SQUARE 1: See diagram A.1.
SQUARE 2: See diagram A.2.
SQUARE 3: See diagram A.3.
SQUARE 4: See diagram A.4.
SQUARE 5: See diagram A.5.

QUADRUPLE-DOUBLE CROCHET:
Make 4 yarn overs, insert hook around stitch, pick up strand, make 1 yarn over and pull the strand through the first 2 loops on the hook *, repeat from *-* a total of 5 times = 1 stitch.

-------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

-------------------------------------------------------

BLANKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The blanket is made up of 20 squares. Work 4 of each of the 5 different squares. Work all the squares first before working them together and finally working an edge along both short sides of the blanket.

CROCHET SQUARE:
Work 33 chain stitches (including 3 chain stitches to turn with) using hook size 5.5 mm = US I/9 and Air – read CHAIN STITCH. Turn and work 1 double crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook (= 2 double crochets) – read CROCHET INFORMATION, work 1 double crochet in each chain stitch to end of row = 31 double crochets.
Then work back and forth according to the diagram – read SQUARES and TRIPLE-TREBLE CROCHET. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! When the diagram has been completed, cut and fasten the strand. The square measures approx. 24 x 24 cm = 9 1/2” x 9 1/2” .

ASSEMBLY:
Lay the squares out with the square numbers corresponding to the numbers in the illustration (4 squares in width and 5 in length). Make sure all squares are lying with the right side up and with the same crochet direction. The squares are worked together in length, then these lengths are worked together in width.
Work together as follows:
Lay 2 squares together, wrong side to wrong side. Work through both layers as follows: ** 1 double crochet in corner, * 3 chain stitches, skip forward approx. 1½-2 cm = 1/2”-3/4”, work 1 double crochet in next stitch *. Work from *-* up to and including the next corner and work 3 chain stitches (= transition to next 2 squares) **. Repeat from **-** along the whole length and finish with 1 double crochet in the last corner. Cut and fasten the strands. Work all the lengths together, then the lengths together in width in the same way.

EDGE:
Now work an edge along the one short side of the blanket as follows: Fasten the strand with 1 slip stitch in the first stitch in the corner and then work 3 chain stitches (= 1 double crochet), work 1 double crochet in each of the remaining double crochets along this side (= 4 squares of 31 stitches) = 124 double crochets. Cut and fasten the strand. Work a similar edge along the other short side.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

	= row already worked! Start at arrow
	= start here
	= single crochet in stitch
	= double crochet in stitch
	= 2 single crochets in same stitch
	= 2 SINGLE CROCHETS WORKED TOGETHER: * Insert hook in next stitch, pick up strand , repeat from -* one more time, make a yarn over and pull it through all 3 loops on hook (= 1 double crochet decreased)
	= RELIEF-DOUBLE-TREBLE CROCHET (only worked on row of double crochets): Work 1 double-treble crochet around the double crochet from the previous row of double crochets (do not work in loop, but around the double crochet itself). Start of line = row where this relief-double-treble crochet starts. The circle at the end of the relief-double-treble crochet = shows which double crochet from the previous double crochet row you are working around.
	= RELIEF-DOUBLE-TREBLE CROCHET (only worked on row of double crochets): Work 1 double-treble crochet around 1 double-treble crochet /triple-treble crochet from the previous row of double crochets (do not work in loops, but around the double-treble crochet /triple-treble crochet itself). Start of line = row where this relief-double-treble crochet starts. The dot at the end of the relief-doublecrochet = shows which double-treble crochet /triple-treble crochet from the previous row of double crochets you are working around.
	= RELIEF-TRIPLE-TREBLE CROCHET (only worked on row of double crochets): Work 1 triple-treble crochet around 1 double-treble crochet /triple-treble crochet from the previous double crochet row (do not work in loops, but around the double-treble crochet /triple-treble crochet itself. Start of line = row where this relief-triple-treble crochet starts. The square at the end of the relief-triple-treble crochet = shows which double-treble crochet /triple-treble crochet from the previous double crochet row you are working around.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 203-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ).

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

2) What are the yarn groups?

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

8) What is a repeat?

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (49)

Francien Veenbrink wrote:

Welk alternatief garen kan ik gebruiken in plaats van de "drops Air wol" ? Wil liever geen wol, voorkeur katoen of mix kantoe /acryl. Welke moet ik dan kiezen om op dezelfde verhouding te zitten. Heb de uitleg wel gelezen, maar die begrijp ik niet. :)

03.01.2023 - 12:40

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Francien,

DROPS Air valt in categorie C, dus voor dezelfde stekenverhouding kun je een garen uit deze categorie kiezen. Je komt dan uit op DROPS Paris, dit is 100% katoen. Houd er rekening mee dat dit het werk een stuk zwaarder maakt dan wol. Bovendien is DROPS Air een zeer licht wolgaren. Je zou ook kunnen kiezen voor DROPS Big Merino. Dit is wel een wolsoort maar geeft veelal geen allergische reacties, mocht het daar om te doen zijn.

08.01.2023 kl. 10:35

Fiony wrote:

Goedemiddag, ik zou graag de vierkanten groter maken omdat ik Drops soft Tweed mix wil gebruiken en daar hem ik naald 4mm voor nodig. Mijn vierkanten zijn dus kleiner dan het patroon. Kom er niet uit hoe ik dat het beste kan doen in verband met de plaatsing van de kabels.

29.08.2022 - 17:07

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Fiony,

Helaas is het voor ons niet mogelijk om patronen aan te passen naar persoonlijke wensen. Een paar tips/ideeën: 1. Bij bepaalde kabels kun je meer herhalingen in de breedte doen. 2. Bij andere kabels kun je meer stokjes voor/na de kabel haken. 3. Je zou eventueel ook meer vierkanten kunnen maken zodat je op hetzelfde formaat deken uitkomt.

31.08.2022 kl. 13:44

Françoise wrote:

Bonjour Comment commencer la 1ère ms et la 1ère mc dans le 1er coin pour démarrer l'assemblage de deux carrés. Merci de votre réponse. Cordialement.

29.04.2022 - 21:45

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Françoise, avec le fil, faites une boucle sur votre crochet, insérez le crochet dans la 1ère ms du 1er carré et en même temps dans la 1ère ms du 2ème carré et crochetez une maille serrée,, crochetez 3 ml, sautez 1,5 à 2 cm et crochetez 1 ms dans la m suivante et ainsi de suite jusqu'au coin suivant. Crochetez 3 ml et répétez le long des 2 carrés suivants. Bon crochet!

02.05.2022 kl. 07:59

Françoise wrote:

Bonjour Ma question portait sur le tuto que j'ai regardé en entier qui va à l'encontre du diagramme : au 2ème rg il fait des triples brides au lieu de quadruples, au 5ème il fait des quadruples au lieu de triples, au 6ème il fait des triples au lieu de quadruples. La vidéo s'arrête là , j'ignore donc la suite. Ce qui pose la question : dois-je suivre la vidéo jusqu'au 6ème rg et le diagramme ensuite, ou uniquement le diagramme ? Merci de votre réponse. Cordialement

04.04.2022 - 11:47

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Françoise, je dois mal comprendre votre question, car, dans la vidéo de A.5, je vois bien des triple-brides au 2ème rang du diagramme (time code 1:23) et des triple-brides au 4ème rang (time code 09:00) et des quadruple-brides au 6ème rang (time code 14:14), autrement dit, les symboles du diagramme correspondent aux mailles crochetées. Pouvez-vous m'indiquer ce que vous avez trouvé comme erreur, peut-être en l'exprimant autrement? Merci pour votre compréhension.

04.04.2022 kl. 15:04

Françoise wrote:

Bonjour Le diagramme 5 n'a-t-il pas subi de modification, car le tuto ne le respecte pas dans la mesure où à la 1ère ligne il faut faire des quadruples brides, lui fait des triples. Qui dois je suivre ? Merci de votre réponse Cordialement

03.04.2022 - 18:02

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Françoise, au 1er rang sur l'endroit de brides en relief, on doit faire des triple-brides - cf 7ème symbole de la légende ou bien cette vidéo. Bon crochet!

04.04.2022 kl. 10:03

Jerriann wrote:

Is there a video for joining the squares? I'm not sure about the process for the width.

22.03.2022 - 03:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jerriann, there is no specific video to this but we show in this video for another blanket how to crochet the squares together with 1 sc in both layers and 1 chain in the video (crochet 3 chain stitches here, skipping 1,5-2 cm as explained in this pattern). Maybe it can help you. Happy crocheting!

22.03.2022 kl. 10:27

Françoise wrote:

Ma question sur la diminution est inutile, puisque la réponse est dans l'explication du diagramme. Désolée, je vais continuer mes carrés . Cordialement.

02.03.2022 - 11:40

Françoise wrote:

Bonjour Merci pour votre réponse. Maintenant comment faire la diminution du dernier rang ? Cordialement

02.03.2022 - 11:01

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Françoise, en suivant le 6ème symbole, soit: 2 mailles serrées écoulées ensemble - cf symbole à gauche sur le dernier rang de A.3. Bon crochet!

02.03.2022 kl. 12:02

Françoise wrote:

Bonjour Le diagramme A3 indique de faire 2 ms dans la même maille, hors cette maille se trouve être une bride. Pourquoi ne pas faire tout simplement 32 brides au lieu de 31 pour commencer le carré ? Merci de votre réponse. Cordialement

01.03.2022 - 16:49

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Françoise, au 1er rang de A.3 on crochète 1 maille serrée dans chaque maille et on termine le rang par 2 mailles serrées dans la même maille; au dernier rang de A.3, on fera une diminution. On conserve ainsi la largeur souhaitée pour le carré. Bon crochet!

02.03.2022 kl. 09:17

Jerriann wrote:

I meant a written pattern as opposed to the diagrams. I can't seem to understand them.

21.02.2022 - 07:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jerriann, sorry we only have a diagram to this pattern but the video linked in the previous answer might help you to understand how to read diagrams and how to crochet A.5. Happy crocheting!

21.02.2022 kl. 10:22

From the #dropsfan gallery

Celtic Comfort

Jaroslava Malá, Czech Republic

© 1982-2023 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.