DROPS / 200 / 17

Soft Moonlight Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with raglan and balloon sleeves. The piece is worked top down in DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk and DROPS Kid-Silk. Sizes S - XXXL.

  • Soft Moonlight Jacket / DROPS 200-17 - Knitted jacket with raglan and balloon sleeves. The piece is worked top down in DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk and DROPS Kid-Silk. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Soft Moonlight Jacket / DROPS 200-17 - Knitted jacket with raglan and balloon sleeves. The piece is worked top down in DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk and DROPS Kid-Silk. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Soft Moonlight Jacket / DROPS 200-17 - Knitted jacket with raglan and balloon sleeves. The piece is worked top down in DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk and DROPS Kid-Silk. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS Design: Pattern no bs-153
Yarn group A + A or C
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 84-92-102-110-122-134 = 33”-36 1/4”-40”-43 3/8”-48”-52 3/4”
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"

All measurements in charts are in cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-300-350-350-400-450 g color 1306, powder
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
125-125-150-150-175-175 g color 01, off white

KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stockinette stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM = US 8.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US 8: length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.


DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 521: 6-6-7-7-8-8 items.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
from 4.75 $ /50g
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour 4.75 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.80 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 57.50$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 96 stitches) minus bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining 86 stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 22) = 3.9.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch (do not increase on bands). On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for mid under sleeve):
Start 2 stitches before the marker, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker sits in middle of these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over = 2 stitches increased. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase to raglan in each transition between body and sleeves as follows: Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker sits in middle of these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over = 2 stitches increased and a total of 8 stitches increased on round. On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes, and then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Decrease as follows from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on row: 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit1. On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the neck measures approx. 1½-2 cm = 1/2”-3/4”. Then the next 5-5-6-6-7-7 buttonholes are worked with approx. 8-8½-7½-8-7-7 cm = 3 1/8”-3 1/4”-3”-3 1/8”-2 3/4”-2 3/4” between each one.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front, top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves. The body is continued back and forth with circular needle from mid front, top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 96-100-104-108-112-112 stitches (including 5 band stitches on each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and 1 strand BabyAlpaca Silk and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left on row, knit 2 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 3 cm = 1 1/8” – remember BUTTONHOLES on right band – read description above.
After the rib, purl 1 row from the wrong side where you increase 14-14-14-18-18-18 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 110-114-118-126-130-130 stitches.
Then work rib as described below.

YOKE:
Insert 4 markers in the piece as described below (without working the stitches). The markers will be used when increasing to raglan.
Count 23-24-25-27-28-28 stitches (= front piece), insert first marker, count 14 stitches (= sleeve), insert 2nd marker, count 36-38-40-44-46-46 stitches (= back piece), insert 3rd marker, count 14 stitches (= sleeve) and insert 4th marker. There are 23-24-25-27-28-28 stitches left on row after the last marker (= front piece).
Change to circular needle size 5 mm = US 8 and work stockinette stitch back and forth with 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side towards mid front. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
AT THE SAME TIME when you have worked 2 rows stockinette stitch, increase to RAGLAN on the next row from the right side – read description above (= 8 stitches increased). Increase to raglan like this every 2nd row (i.e. every row from the right side) a total of 15-18-21-22-25-27 times. After the last increase there are 230-258-286-302-330-346 stitches on the needle. Continue with stockinette stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side (without increasing) until the piece measures approx. 19-21-23-25-27-29 cm = 7 1/2”-8 1/4”-9”-9 3/4”-10 5/8”-11 3/8” from the cast-on edge mid front.
The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side: Work 38-41-45-48-53-57 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 44-52-58-60-64-64 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-10 new stitches on needle (= in side under sleeve), work 66-72-80-86-96-104 stitches as before (= back piece), place the next 44-52-58-60-64-64 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-10 new stitches on needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the remaining 38-41-45-48-53-57 stitches as before (= front piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 154-166-182-198-218-238 stitches. Continue back and forth with stockinette stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 28 cm = 11” from the division in all sizes (or to desired length; there is 4 cm = 1 1/2” left to finished length).
Purl 1 row from the wrong side (bands worked in garter stitch) where you increase 18-18-22-22-22-22 stitches evenly spaced = 172-184-204-220-240-260 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left on row, knit 2 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 4 cm = 1 1/2”. Change back to circular needle size 5 mm = US 8 and loosely bind off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl. The jacket measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4" from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 44-52-58-60-64-64 stitches from the thread on the one side of the body on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5 mm = US 8 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-8-8-10 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 50-58-64-68-72-74 stitches. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 6-6-6-8-8-10 stitches under the sleeve. It will be used when increasing mid under sleeve. Work stockinette stitch in the round. When the piece measures 3 cm = 1 1/8” from the division increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 2½-3½-3-3½-2½-3 cm = 1”-1 1/4”-1 1/8”-1 1/4”-1”-1 1/8” a total of 15-11-12-10-12-11 times = 80-80-88-88-96-96 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 46-44-43-41-40-39 cm = 18”-17 1/4”-17”-16 1/8”-15 3/4”-15 1/4” from the division (short measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke). Work 1 round where all stitches are knitted together 2 and 2 = 40-40-44-44-48-48 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6. Work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 4 cm = 1 1/2” (or to desired length) – make sure the rib is not work too loosely.
Change to double pointed needles size 5 mm = US 8 and loosely bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures approx. 50-48-47-45-44-43 cm = 19 3/4”-19”-18 1/2”-17 3/4”-17 1/4”-17” from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew buttons onto left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 200-17) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (12)

country flag Hildur 17.03.2021 - 12:23:

Hei.\r\nDere har mange flotte oppskrifter som jeg har lyst og lage, men kan ikke fordra de der \'ovenfra og ned\'oppskriftene! \r\nEr det mulig å gjøre de om på en enkel måte slik at man begynner nede?

country flag Uny 19.08.2020 - 10:51:

Hello If I take just one yarn type C, how much grammes do I have to buy? Thank you very much.

user icon DROPS Design 19.08.2020 kl. 15:14:

Dear Uny, you will find how to calculate here. Happy knitting!

country flag Uny 19.08.2020 - 08:56:

Hello I would like to know if it possible to change the mohair yarn for an other yarn without mohair. Please can you help me to find two or one Drops yarn which can be used to make this model 200-17. Thank you in advance Helene

user icon DROPS Design 19.08.2020 kl. 09:11:

Dear Uny, you can use any other yarn group A to replace Kid-Silk or use 1 strand yarn group C to replace 2 strands yarn group A - read more about alternatives here. Happy kntiting!

country flag Paulette 15.08.2020 - 13:45:

Is dit patroon ook in het nederlands?

user icon DROPS Design 17.08.2020 kl. 19:50:

Dag Paulette,

Via deze link vindt je de Nederlandse vertaling van het patroon. Veel breiplezier!

country flag Annamaria 25.10.2019 - 23:44:

In molti modelli vengono riportati due filati, significa che devono essere lavorati insieme? grazie

user icon DROPS Design 26.10.2019 kl. 08:57:

Buongiorno Annamaria. Quando trova l’indicazione di lavorare con 1 capo di ogni qualità di filato, vuol dire che deve lavorare le qualità di filato insieme. Buon lavoro!

country flag LineRytter 23.10.2019 - 10:19:

Vil det være muligt at strikke denne uden brug af mohair? Og i stedet evt bruge to tråde baby alpaca Silk?

user icon DROPS Design 23.10.2019 kl. 13:41:

Hej Line, Ja du kan også strikke denne model i 2 tråde DROPS Baby Alpaca Silk. God fornøjelse!

country flag Marie Wilson 09.07.2019 - 18:41:

Why are there 2 different silk yarns given for this pattern?

user icon DROPS Design 09.07.2019 kl. 23:27:

Dear Marie, in this pattern we used two different yarns : the smoth and shiny DROPS Baby Alpaca Silk, and the soft and hairy (let's say halo-y) DRIPS Kid Silk fonalat, to combine the best of these two worlds. Happy Knitting!

country flag Gabriela Jorajuria 17.04.2019 - 01:17:

Muchisimas gracias queria cerciorarme

country flag Gabriela Jorajuria 16.04.2019 - 03:00:

Con cuantos puntos se empieza?

user icon DROPS Design 16.04.2019 kl. 15:57:

Hola Gabriela! Hay que montar 96-100-104-108-112-112 puntos (depende de vuestra talla). Buen trabajo!

country flag Gabriela Jorajuria 13.04.2019 - 18:36:

Can I have the prices in U$S dollars please?

user icon DROPS Design 13.04.2019 kl. 19:15:

Hello Gabriela. If you choose the English/us language, prices will automatically show in us$. For example, for the pattern you are interested in, this is the link to the en/us version and as you can see, yarn prices are expressed in US dollars. Enjoy your knitting!

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