DROPS / 200 / 16

Blossoming Beauty by DROPS Design

Crocheted square jacket in DROPS Cotton Merino. The piece is worked with lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no cm-109
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S/M - L – XL/XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 77-81-85-89 cm = 30 3/8”-32”-33 1/2”-35”
Full length: 69-69-78-78 = 27 1/8”-27 1/8”-30 3/4”-30 3/4”

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
650-750-900-950 g color 28, powder

CROCHET GAUGE:
20 double crochets in width and 10 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 MM = US E/4.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller hook size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 4.30 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour 4.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 55.90$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.11 (A.5 applies to sizes XL/XXL and XXXL).

CROCHET INFORMATION:
On each row of double crochets, the first double crochet is replaced by 3 chain stitches. The 3 chain stitches count as 1 double crochet when counting stitches.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 double crochet by working 2 double crochets in 1 double crochet.

DECREASE TIP-1:
Decrease 1 double crochet as follows: * Make 1 yarn over, insert hook through next stitch, pick up strand, make 1 yarn over and pull strand through the first 2 loops on hook *, work from *-* 1 more time, make 1 yarn over and pull strand through all 3 loops on hook (= 1 double crochet decreased).

DECREASE TIP-2 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on round (e.g. 48 stitches) and divide by number of decreases to be made (e.g. 3) = 16. In this example work each 15th and 16th double crochet together.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SQUARE JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth. First you work the back piece, then right side, armhole and front piece. Then the left side, armhole and front piece. Sleeves are worked in the round, top down.

BACK PIECE:
Work 163-163-183-183 chain stitches with hook size 3.5 mm = US E/4 and Cotton Merino. Turn and work pattern back and forth as follows in the different sizes:

Sizes S/M and L:
Work A.1 over the first 6 chain stitches - read CROCHET INFORMATION, A.2a over the next 24 chain stitches, A.3a over the next 108 chain stitches (= 3 repeats), A.4a over de the next 19 chain stitches, A.1 over the remaining 6 chain stitches on row = 138-138 stitches.

Sizes XL/XXL and XXXL:
Work A.1 over the first 6 chain stitches - read CROCHET INFORMATION, A.2a over the next 24 chain stitches, A.3a over the next 108 chain stitches (= 3 repeats), A.4a over the next 19 chain stitches, A.5 over the next 20 chain stitches, A.1 over the remaining 6 chain stitches on row = 155-155 stitches.

All sizes:
NOTE: A.1 is worked on each side of the piece to finished length. The first row worked is from the right side; insert a marker to show the right side of the piece.
Continue with A.2b, A.3b, A.4b and A.5b (applies to sizes XL/XXL and XXXL) in height a total of 3 times. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
Now work a row with 1 double crochet in each double crochet and 2 double crochets around each chain-space (A.1 worked as before on each side), at the same time increase 1-1-0-0 double crochets on row – read INCREASE TIP = 139-139-155-155 stitches. The piece measures approx. 32 cm = 12 1/2" in all sizes. Cut the strand. Insert a marker thread in last row worked. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

RIGHT SIDE, ARMHOLE AND FRONT PIECE:
Now continue working from the wrong side, i.e. 2 rows after one another from the wrong side: Work A.1 over the first 6 stitches, A.6 as far as the next A.1, but the last time when working A.6 skip the last single crochet/chain stitch in diagram (so that the pattern is symmetrical on each side) = 32-32-36-36 repeats of A.6, A.1. Work the next row in the diagram back from the right side. Size S/M is finished. In sizes L, XL/XXL and XXXL repeat these 2 rows until you have worked 4-4-6 rows of the pattern.

All sizes:
Now work the armhole as follows (from the wrong side): A.1, work 8 repeats of A.6, work 36-40-40-44 chain stitches for armhole, skip the next 9-10-10-11 repeats of A.6, work 1 single crochet around the next chain stitch and continue with A.6 as far as the next A.1, but the last time you work A.6 skip the last double crochet/chain stitch in diagram (so that the pattern is symmetrical inside A.1 on each side), A.1 = 32-32-36-36 repeats of A.6 inside A.1 on each side.
Continue back and forth with A.6 and A.1 on each side of the piece; over the 36-40-40-44 loose chain stitches work 9-10-10-11 repeats of A.6 for armhole = a total of 32-32-36-36 repeats of A.6 inside A.1 on each side. Repeat the last 2 rows in A.6 until the piece measures approx. 6-8-8-10 cm = 2 3/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”-4” from the marker thread – adjust so that the last row worked is the last row in the diagram.
Now work 1 row with 1 double crochet in each double crochet and 1 double crochet around each chain stitch (A.1 is worked on each side of the piece as before), at the same time increase 1-1-0-0 double crochet = 140-140-155-155 stitches. Then work pattern as follows: A.1, A.7 as far as the next A.1, but the last time A.7 is worked skip the last double crochet in the diagram (so that the pattern is symmetrical on each side) and finish with A.1. When A.7 has been completed in height, repeat the last 2 rows in A.7 until the piece measures 26-28-32-34 cm = 10 1/4”-11 3/8”-12 1/2”-13 3/8” from the marker thread; adjust so that the last row worked is from the wrong side. Now work 1 row with 1 double crochet in each double crochet and 1 double crochet around each chain stitch (A.1 is worked on each side as before). Now work pattern as follows: A.1, A.8 as far as the next repeat of A.1, but the last time A.8 is worked skip the last double crochet in the diagram (so that the pattern is symmetrical on each side) and finish with A.1. On the last row of A.8 decrease 2-2-0-0 double crochets evenly spaced = 138-138-155-155 double crochets. Now work pattern in the different sizes as follows:

Sizes S/M and L:
Work A.1, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 20 double crochets (= A.2a), * work 1 double crochet in each of the next 12 double crochets, 2 chain stitches, skip 2 double crochets, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 16 double crochets (= A.3a) *, work from *-* a total of 3 times, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 16 treble crochets (= A.4a) and finish with A.1. Now work A.2b-A.4b as before inside A.1 on each side. When A.2b-A.4b have been completed in height, work the last row with 1 double crochet in each double crochet and 1 double crochet around each chain stitch inside A.1 on each side of the piece. Cut and fasten strand. The piece measures approx. 42-44 cm =16 1/2”-17 1/4” from the marker thread (40-40 cm = 15 3/4”-15 3/4” from the armhole).

Sizes XL/XXL and XXXL:
Work A.1, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 20 double crochets (= A.2a), * work 1 double crochet in each of the next 12 double crochets, 2 chain stitches, skip 2 double crochets, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 16 double crochets (= A.3a) *, work from *-* a total of 3 times, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 16 double crochets (= A.4a), work 1 double crochet in each of the next 17 double crochets (= A.5) and finish with A.1. Now work A.2b-A.5b as before inside A.1 on each side. When A.2b-A.5b have been completed in height, work the last row with 1 double crochet in each double crochet and 1 double crochet around each chain stitch inside A.1 on each side of the piece. Cut and fasten strand. The piece measures approx. 48-50 cm = 19”-19 3/4” from the marker thread (44-44 cm = 17 1/4”-17 1/4” from the armhole).

LEFT SIDE, ARMHOLE AND FRONT PIECE:
Work outwards to the other side from the row of chain stitches worked at the beginning of the piece, starting from the right side as follows:
Work A.1 over the first 6 chain stitches, work 2-2-1-1 double crochets in next chain stitch, continue with 1 double crochet in each chain stitch until there are 6 stitches left, but skip the same chain stitch skipped on first row on first piece worked and work A.1 over the next 6 chain stitch = 139-139-155-155 double crochets. Insert a marker thread in this row. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE.
Now work as follows from the wrong side:
Work A.1 over the first 6 stitches, A.6 as far as the next A.1, but the last time A.6 is worked skip the last single crochet in diagram (so that the pattern is symmetrical on each side), A.1. Work the next row in the diagram back from the right side. Now size S/M is finished. In sizes L, XL/XXL and XXXL repeat the pattern in height until you have worked a total of 4-4-6 rows of pattern.

All sizes:
Now work the armhole as follows (from the wrong side): A.1, work 15-14-18-17 repeats of A.6, 36-40-40-44 loose chain stitches for armhole, skip the next 9-10-10-11 repeats of A.6, work 1 single crochet around the next chain stitch, then work 8 repeats of A.6, but the last time A.6 is worked skip the last single crochet in the diagram (so that the pattern is symmetrical on each side) and finish with A.1 = 32-32-36-36 repeats of A.6 inside A.1 on each side. Continue back and forth with A.6 and A.1 on each side of the piece; over the loose 36-40-40-44 chain stitches worked for the armhole, work 9-10-10-11 repeats of A.6 = a total of 32-32-36-36 repeats of A.6 inside A.1 on each side. Continue with pattern in the same way as the right front piece.

SLEEVE:
The sleeves are worked in the round from the armhole down.
Start mid under the armhole with A.9 (= start of round), work A.6 (= row of chain-spaces + 1 single crochet) to the top of the armhole (= 9-10-10-11 repeats), work 9-10-10-11 repeats of A.6 around the row of chain stitches worked for the armhole = a total of 18-20-20-22 repeats of A.6 for the sleeve. Continue like this in the round. When the piece measures 4 cm = 1 1/2” decrease on each side as follows: Work A.9, A.10, work A.6 until there are 2 repeats of A.6 left on the round, work A.11. When A.10 and A.11 have been completed in height you have decreased 2 repeats of A.6 on the round and you have room for 16-18-18-20 repeats of A.6 on the round. Continue in the round with pattern and repeat the decrease when the sleeve measures 12 cm = 4 3/4” and 20 cm = 8” = 12-14-14-16 repeats. Continue working until the sleeve measures 52 cm = 20 1/2” – adjust so you finish after the last round in A.6. Now work 1 double crochet in each double crochet and 1 double crochet around each chain stitch at the same time as you decrease 3-5-5-4 double crochets evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP = 45-51-51-60 double crochets left on round. Work A.8 in the round – each round starts with 3 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in beginning of round. The sleeve measures approx. 56 cm = 22”. Cut and fasten strand. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= this row already worked - start on next row in diagram. NOTE: number of stitches given applies from first row worked in diagram!
= this row/round already worked - start on next row/round in diagram
= 1 chain stitch
= 2 chain stitches - on next row skip the first of these 2 chain stitches and work 1 double crochet in the last of these 2 chain stitches
= 2 chain stitches
= 3 chain stitches
= 5 chain stitches
= 6 chain stitches
= 7 chain stitches
= 1 single crochet in stitch
= 1 single crochet around chain-space
= 1 double crochet in stitch
= 1 double crochet around chain-space
= 1 treble crochet in stitch
= 1 treble crochet around chain-space
= round begins with 1 chain stitch and finishes with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch at beginning of round
= round begins with 4 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 4th chain stitch at beginning of round





Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 200-16) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (42)

Leanne 26.10.2020 - 22:25:

Thanks so much for your prompt reply. I have managed to get started successfully!

Leanne 26.10.2020 - 00:56:

XXXL needs 183 stitches but am not sure where to add the extra stitches across the 155 that form the pattern, eg where do I add the extra 18 stitches to make 108 across the 90 that make up A.3a (3 repeats)? I presume 6 in each repeat but am not sure whether to add all 6 to the start of the A.3a row, the end or whatever. There are 2 chain stitches amongst the trebles in this row and I'm not sure where they should be positioned in relation to the extra stitches that I need to include. Thank you.

DROPS Design 26.10.2020 kl. 09:23:

Dear Leanne, to avoid the fundation chain being too tight, you will cast on more chains than you need stitches on first row, when working the very first row, work as shown in diagram, but when you see the small diamond, this means you have to work the next 2 chains as follwos: skip 1 chain, work 1 treble (= UK-terms) in next chain - this way you will skip chains evenly and would have worked the 183 chains = 155 sts at the end of this first row (A.3a is worked over 36 sts but there are only 30 sts at the end of this first row). Hope this will help, happy crocheting!

Monika Kukic 10.10.2020 - 21:13:

So many nice patterns. But so hard to read diagrams! I am so sorry that I don't understand nothing! Tried so many times and it's not happening 😭😭😭😭

DROPS Design 12.10.2020 kl. 09:14:

Dear Mrs Kukic , did you look at our lesson about diagrams? It explains how to reach crochet diagrams. Hope this helps, happy crocheting!

Lisa 29.09.2020 - 15:48:

Hi Is it possible to get the whole graph on one page?

DROPS Design 30.09.2020 kl. 07:59:

Dear Lisa, you can print diagrams and put them together on the same page if this sounds easier for you to follow the diagrams. Happy crocheting!

Kaitlyn 26.08.2020 - 04:47:

I am fairly new to crochet and I am not very good at reading diagrams and patterns. Do or can you also provide video tutorials?

DROPS Design 26.08.2020 kl. 08:24:

Dear Kaitlyn, there are no specific video to each pattern, only to the different techniques used - you might find help from this lesson where it is explained how to read crochet diagrams. Happy crocheting!

Runa 05.06.2020 - 11:19:

Hei! Det står at for bakstykket skal det lages 163 luftmasker, mens oppskriften for bakstykket videre er for 138 staver. Hva skal jeg med de ekstra luftmaskene? Det står også at A2a har 24 staver, mens i diagrammet er det 20 staver, hva er riktig?

Avokado 28.05.2020 - 07:37:

Hello, im new at kniting and I really want to do this, bur i dont understand the pattern, how do i do it, the one with flowers

DROPS Design 28.05.2020 kl. 08:46:

Dear Avokado, you can find how to read diagrams here - this might help you to understand how to crochet the diagrams - for any individual assistance you are welcome to contact the store where you bought the yarn. Happy crocheting!

Rosita Pugliese 27.05.2020 - 08:53:

Buongiorno, non mi trovo con i punti già nel secondo giro di ritorno e non capisco dove sbaglio visto che alla fine del primo giro ho i 155 punti come da spiegazione. Al ritorno deduco che si fa il diagramma a.1 e poi a.5b - a.4b - a.3b x 3 volte a.2b e a.1. già all'inizio di a.3b non mi tornano i punti :-(

Lindsay 20.05.2020 - 11:20:

For the back, when finishing of the "b" section, it says to increase by 1-1-0-0 for a total of 139 stitches.. how does that work if you increase twice but you're only adding one stitch to the previously listed total of 138? Am I missing something? I read ahead to get an idea of what to expect, but I'm extremely confused

DROPS Design 20.05.2020 kl. 11:27:

Dear Lindsay, in size S/M and L there were 138 sts and you now increase 1 stitch on the row, there are now 139 sts. (there are no increases in the larger sizes) .Happy crocheting!

HannaL 08.05.2020 - 18:58:

Miten jatketaan ensimmäisen kierroksen jälkeen pienempiä kokoja, kun ohjeessa lukee että Kaikki koot ja sitten maininta kaaviosta vain isojen kokojen kohdalla. Virkataanko pienet koot millä kaaviolla ?

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