DROPS / 202 / 21

Sweet Country Sunrise Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with stripes, balloon sleeves and raglan. Piece is worked in DROPS Air, top down. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern ai-191
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 100-108-116-126-138-150 cm = 39 3/8”-42 1/2”-45 3/4”-49 1/2”-54 1/4”-59”
Full length: 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20 1/2”-21 1/4”-22”-22 3/4”-23 5/8”-24 3/8”

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150-150-150-150-150-200 g color 16, blue
100-100-100-100-100-100 g color 27, sea green
100-100-100-100-100-100 g color 08, light pink
50-50-50-50-100-100 g color no 14, heather
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 15, purple haze

KNITTING GAUGE:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 mm = US 9
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 mm US 9, length 40 and 80 cm = 16” and 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 mm = US 7
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm = US 7, length 80 cm = 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ROUND (blue), NO 612: 6-6-6-7-7-7 pieces

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.60 $ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 6.60 $ /50g
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DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 6.60 $ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 59.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
K all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

STRIPES YOKE:
Work stripes in stockinette stitch, top down as follows:
9-9-10-10-11-11 cm = 3 1/2”-3 1/2”-4”-4”-4 3/8”-4 3/8” with color 15, purple haze,
9-9-10-10-11-11 cm = 3 1/2”-3 1/2”-4”-4”-4 3/8”-4 3/8” with color 14, heather,
0-2-2-4-4-6 cm = 0”-3/4”-3/4”-1 1/2”-1 1/2”-2 3/8” with color 08, light pink.

STRIPES BODY:
Work stripes in stockinette stitch, top down as follows:
9-7-8-6-7-5 cm = 3 1/2”-2 3/4”-3 1/8”-2 3/8”-2 3/4”-2” with color 08, light pink (i.e. the stripe in light pink is 9-9-10-10-11-11 cm = 3 1/2”-3 1/2”-4”-4”-4 3/8”-4 3/8” in total including rounds from yoke),
9-9-10-10-11-11 cm = 3 1/2”-3 1/2”-4”-4”-4 3/8”-4 3/8” with color 27, sea green,
9-11-9-11-9-11 cm = 3 1/2”-4 3/8”-3 1/2”-4 3/8”-3 1/2”-4 3/8” (or until finished measurements) with color 16, blue.

STRIPES SLEEVE:
Work stripes in the round in stockinette stitch, top down as follows:
13-11-11-9-9-8 cm = 5 1/8”-4 3/8”-4 3/8”-3 1/2”-3 1/2”-3 1/8” with color 08, light pink (i.e. the stripe in light pink is 13-13-13-13-13-14 cm = 5 1/8”- 5 1/8”- 5 1/8”- 5 1/8”- 5 1/8”- 5 1/2” in total including rounds from yoke),
13-13-13-13-13-14 cm = 5 1/8”- 5 1/8”- 5 1/8”- 5 1/8”- 5 1/8”- 5 1/2” with color 27, sea green,
20-21-19-20-18-17 cm = 8”- 8 1/4”-7 1/2”-8”-7”-6 3/4” (or until finished measurements) with color 16, blue.

RAGLAN:
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase for raglan on each side of the 4 markers in every transition between sleeves and body as follows: Work until 1 stitch remains before marker, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker is between these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased on each side of marker and 8 stitches increased in total on row.) On next row (wrong side) purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

INCREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeves):
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over = 2 stitches increased. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 112 stitches), minus edge stitches (2 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 26) = 4.2.
In this example decrease by working approx. every 3rd and 4th stitch together.

KNITTING TIP (applies to sleeve length):
Length on sleeves can be adjusted as explained in pattern but note that the sleeve length should be a bit longer than usual to make the sleeve baggy at the bottom.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work yoke back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Work body back and forth from mid front, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down. Work bands along mid front and finish with a neck edge. Work entire garment in stockinette stitch with stripes and edges in rib.

YOKE:
Read all of the following section on yoke before working!
Cast on 102-106-114-114-118-126 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 with purple haze. Purl 1 row (= wrong side).
Insert 4 marker in piece as follows (without working the stitches): Count 20-21-22-22-23-25 stitches (= front piece), insert 1 marker before next stitch, count 12-12-14-14-14-14 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker before next stitch, count 38-40-42-42-44-48 stitches (= back piece), insert 1 marker before next stitch, count 12-12-14-14-14-14 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker before next stitch. There are 20-21-22-22-23-25 stitches after last marker on front piece.
Work STRIPES YOKE with 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH in each side towards mid front - read explanation above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
AT THE SAME TIME on first row from right side increase for RAGLAN – see explanation above. Increase for raglan like this on every other row (i.e. every row from right side) 18-20-21-24-26-28 times in total = 246-266-282-306-326-350 stitches. After last increase piece measures approx. 18-20-22-24-26-28 cm = 7”-8”-8 3/4”-9 1/2”-10 1/4”-11” from neck edge mid front. If the garment is shorter than this, continue until correct measurements.
Work next row as follows from wrong side: Work 38-41-43-47-51-56 stitches as before (= front piece), slip the next 48-52-56-60-62-64 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), work 74-80-84-92-100-110 stitches as before (= back piece), slip the next 48-52-56-60-62-64 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve) and work the 38-41-43-47-51-56 stitches as before (= front piece). Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 162-174-186-202-222-242 stitches. Work STRIPES BODY - read explanation above, with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side towards mid front. When piece measures 21 cm = 8 1/4” from division in all sizes, knit 1 row from wrong side while increasing 2 stitches evenly in all sizes = 164-176-188-204-224-244 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7. Work next row as follows from right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 stitches remain on needle, knit 2 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 6 cm = 2 3/8”. Loosely bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. To avoid a tight bind-off edge bind off with circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 (this applies to all bind-off edge on this garment). Jacket measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20 1/2”-21 1/4”-22”-22 3/4”-23 5/8”-24 3/8” from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 48-52-56-60-62-64 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece double pointed needles/a short circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 54-58-64-68-72-74 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of round (= mid under sleeve). Use marker thread later when increasing under sleeve.
Work STRIPES SLEEVE - see explanation above. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 4 cm from division in all sizes, increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve - READ INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 3½-3½-3½-3-3-3 cm = 1 1/4”-1 1/4”-1 1/4”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/8” 9-9-8-8-8-8 times in total = 72-76-80-84-88-90 stitches.
Continue to work until sleeve measures approx. 39-38-36-35-33-32 cm = 15 1/4”-15”-14 1/4”-13 3/4”-13”-12 1/2” from division (approx. 7 cm = 2 3/4” remain until finished measurements - read KNITTING TIP). NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke.
Knit 1 round while decreasing 0-4-0-4-0-2 stitches evenly = 72-72-80-80-88-88 stitches. On next round knit all stitches together 2 by 2 = 36-36-40-40-44-44 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm = US 7. Work rib in the round = knit 2/purl 2 for 6 cm = 2 3/8”. Loosely bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Sleeve measures approx. 46-45-43-42-40-39 cm = 18”-17 3/4”-17”-16 1/2”-15 3/4”-15 1/4” from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.

LEFT BAND:
Pick up from right side inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, approx. 85 to 109 stitches along left front piece on circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 with blue (number of stitches should be divisible by 4 + 1).
Work first row as follows from wrong side: 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 stitches remain on needle, purl 2 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 2½-3 cm = 1”-1 1/8”. Loosely bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl.

RIGHT BAND:
Pick up from right side inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, approx. 85 to 109 stitches along right front piece on circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 with blue (number of stitches should be divisible by 4 + 1).
Work first row as follows from wrong side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, repeat from *-* until 4 stitches remain on needle, purl 2 and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue rib like this but after approx. 1-1½ cm = 3/8”-1/2” decrease evenly for 5-5-5-6-6-6 buttonholes. Bottom buttonhole should be approx. 2-3 cm = 3/4”-1 1/8” from bottom edge, and top buttonhole approx. 5-6 cm = 2”-2 3/8” from neck edge. 1 buttonhole = work 2 stitches together and make 1 yarn over - Note: Decreasing in the purl sections will look more pretty (from right side). Continue rib until it measure the same as left band. Loosely bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up from right side approx. 112-116-124-124-128-136 stitches along the entire neck on circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 with blue. Purl 1 row from wrong side while decreasing evenly to 86-90-94-98-102-106 stitches – read DECREASE TIP! Work next row as follows from right side: 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until 4 stitches remain on needle, knit 2 and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue rib like this but after approx. 1-1½ cm = 3/8”-1/2” bind off for 1 buttonhole over the other holes on right band. Continue until neck edge measures approx. 3 cm = 1 1/8”, bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 29.04.2019
Correction - YOKE: After last increase piece measures approx. 18-20-22-24-26-28 cm = 7”-8”-8 3/4”-9 1/2”-10 1/4”-11” from neck edge mid front.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 202-21) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (10)

Anne 12.09.2020 - 19:46:

To get the 10 1/4 inch length before I separate the sleeves and body, I will have more stitches. What should I do to match the pattern count? Also, when I separate the sleeves and body I do it on a wrong side row? Do the yarn overs just slide onto the stitch holder too? How do I knit them in the round? 😊

DROPS Design 14.09.2020 kl. 08:44:

Dear Anne, check your tension, you should have 20 rows = 4" - if you have less rows, yoke will be too long, you can compensate by working less rows between the increase rows for raglan. The dividing row is worked from WS, if you still have some yarn overs on the needle, just count them as stitches when counting/dividing pieces. This lesson shows how to work a jumper top down and could help you with this jacket. Happy knitting!

Pia Nielsen 16.02.2020 - 21:51:

Jeg har brugt omregneren, som viser, at man kan bruge Brushed Alpaca Silk. Jeg kan bare ikke få strikkefastheden til at passe. Har prøvet tykke og tynde pinde.

DROPS Design 18.02.2020 kl. 11:26:

Hej Pia, Hvis du får strikkefastheden til at stemme i bredden, så kan du følge målene i opskriften. Vi bruger pinde 5,5-6 for at få 16 masker på 10 cm i Brushed Alpaca Silk. God fornøjelse!

Karete 12.09.2019 - 22:45:

Nå er det mulig jeg surrer fælt, men jeg har lest meg blind på oppskriften. I forklaringen til oppskriften står det at alle striper strikkes i glattstrikk. I selve oppskriften står det på sin side: strikkes i rillestrikk. Er ikke rillestrikk å strikke rett på alle pinner, også fra vrangsiden? Hva er det jeg ikke får med meg? 😅

DROPS Design 13.09.2019 kl. 07:30:

Hei Karete, Kant maskene er strikket i rille, resten av stykket er strikket i glattstrikk. God fornøyelse!

Tine 14.07.2019 - 10:43:

Kan man strikke den i sky og så evt gå en størrelse op?

DROPS Design 26.08.2019 kl. 13:20:

Hei Tine. Nei, denne jakken er strikket i et garn fra garngruppe C, mens garnet DROPS Sky tilhører garngruppe B (tynnere garn), slik at resultatet vil ikke bli det samme. mvh Drops design

Karen 18.06.2019 - 07:37:

Er trøjen strikket i dobbelttråd?

DROPS Design 18.06.2019 kl. 07:51:

Hei Karen. Nei, denne er strikket med enkel tråd. Hadde det vært strikket med dobbel tråd ville dette stått tydelig forklart under instruksjonene for opplegg. God fornøyelse

Julie 11.05.2019 - 08:44:

Fin jakke som jeg skal prøve meg på. Lurer på om det går å strikke den rundt og rundt, og klippe opp på midten fremme etterpå? Er ikke så glad i å strikke vrang.

DROPS Design 11.05.2019 kl. 11:41:

Hei Julie, Det kan du gjerne og strikke båndene til slutt. Bare husk å legg til noen masker i bredden for å erstatte maskene du taper etter klippinga. God fornøyelse!

Suzie 16.02.2019 - 15:51:

Ce gilet est SUPERBE et je vais surement essayer de le tricoter malgré qu'il semble un peu compliqué....

Ida 15.02.2019 - 22:12:

Hei! Lurer på hvor mye garn man må beregne om man ønsker å strikke jakken i en farge?

DROPS Design 19.02.2019 kl. 15:17:

Hei Ida. Du kan få en ide om garnmengde ved å se på modell 186-30, denne er ensfarget og strikket i Air. Du må nok bergne litt mer garn pga ballongermene. God fornøyelse

Kristien 06.02.2019 - 16:31:

Heel mooi model, wanneer komt het patroon?

Aljona 02.02.2019 - 00:01:

Fin Model och fina färger !!!

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