DROPS / 194 / 21

Bewitched by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater in DROPS Air with English rib. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-130
Yarn group C or A + A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-350-400-400-450-500 g color 15, purple haze

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING GAUGE:
14 stitches in width and 17 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 MM / US 10.75: length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm for stockinette stitch and English rib.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM / US 6: length 60 or 80 cm / 24" or 32" / 24'' or 32'' for rib.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm / 4'', change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm / 4'', change to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.60 $ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 4.60 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 4.60 $ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 32.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

DECREASE TIP-1 (for sides of front/back piece):
All decreases are made from the right side!
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 1, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased), knit until there are 4 stitches left, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), knit 1 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.

DECREASE TIP-2 (for neck on front piece):
Decrease 1 stitch after the 1 stitch as follows: slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease 1 stitch before the 1 stitch as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left on the row, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased) and finish with knit 1.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 44 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 11) = 4. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

ENGLISH RIB:
ROW 1: 1 stitch in garter stitch, * knit 1, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, finish with knit 1 and 1 stitch in garter stitch.
ROW 2: 1 stitch in garter stitch, * 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, knit together the yarn over and the slipped stitch *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, finish with 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl and 1 stitch in garter stitch.
ROW 3: 1 stitch in garter stitch, * knit the yarn over and slipped stitch together, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left (including the yarn over), knit the yarn over and slipped stitch together, 1 stitch in garter stitch.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 upwards.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle. The front and back pieces are worked separately. The sleeves are worked back and forth with circular needle. The neck is worked in the round with circular needle.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 80-83-89-98-104-113 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side of the piece) with circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75 and Air.
Work rib (= knit 1 / purl 2) with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side of the piece.
When the rib measures 4 cm / 1½'', continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When the piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'' decrease 1 stitch inside the 2 stitches in each side of the piece – read DECREASE TIP-1.
Decrease like this every 6-6-9-6-9-9 cm / 2 3/8"-2 3/8"-3 ½"-2 3/8"-3 ½"-3 ½" a total of 5-5-4-5-4-4 times = 70-73-81-88-96-105 stitches.
When the piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm / 13¾''-14¼''-14½''-15''-15¼''-15¾'', bind off 2-2-4-6-6-8 stitches for the armholes at the beginning of the next 2 rows = 66-69-73-76-84-89 stitches.
Work stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side of the piece.
When the piece measures 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm / 19''-19¾''-20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾'' bind off the middle 26-27-29-30-32-33 stitches for neck = 20-21-22-23-26-28 stitches left on each shoulder.
Each shoulder is finished separately. Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch as before until the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm / 20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8'' from the cast-on edge. Bind off with knit. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as for back piece until the piece measures 42-44-44-46-46-48 cm / 16 ½"-17 ¼"-17 ¼"-18"-18"-18 7/8" = 66-69-73-76-84-89 stitches. Now bind off the middle 20-21-23-24-26-27 stitches for neck and each shoulder is finished separately = 23-24-25-26-29-31 stitches left on each shoulder.
On the next row from the right side decrease 1 stitch inside 1 stitch for neck – read DECREASE TIP-2! Decrease like this every 2nd row a total of 3 times = 20-21-22-23-26-28 stitches.
Work stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch as before until the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm / 20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8'' from the cast-on edge. Bind off with knit. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

SLEEVE:
The sleeve is worked back and forth with circular needle. 
Cast on 44-47-47-50-50-53 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side of the piece) with circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and Air. Work rib (= knit 1, purl 2) with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side of the piece. When the rib measures 7 cm / 2¾'', adjust so that the next row is from the right side, work 1 more row of rib but, AT THE SAME TIME increase 11-12-12-13-13-14 stitches evenly on row – read INCREASE TIP = 55-59-59-63-63-67 stitches. Purl 1 row from the wrong side with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. Change to circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75 and work ENGLISH RIB – read description above.
Continue until the piece measures 39 cm. Now continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side AT THE SAME TIME as on the first row you decrease 5-7-4-5-2-3 stitches evenly on row = 50-52-55-58-61-64 stitches. Bind off when the sleeve measures 51-51-51-50-49-48 cm / 20"-20"-20"-19 5/8"-19 ¼"-18 7/8". Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams in outermost loop of outermost stitch. Sew in the sleeves, inside the 1 edge stitch. Sew sleeve and side seams inside the 1 edge stitch.

NECK:
Knit up approx. 63 to 84 stitches with circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75 (make sure the number of stitches is divisible by 3). Work rib (= knit 1, purl 2) in the round over all stitches for 2 cm / 3/4''. Then bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 194-21) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (25)

Carolina 05.11.2019 - 16:14:

Hola, tengo una pregunta, ¿las agujas necesarias para realizar este tejido están en el sistema métrico o en el sistema de medidas de Estados Unidos?

DROPS Design 30.11.2019 kl. 23:21:

Hola Carolina. Las agujas en todos los patrones y en todos los idiomas (excepto en inglés americano) están en el sistema métrico.

Alejandra 23.09.2019 - 04:00:

Hola, me encanto el proyecto y tengo muchas ganas de hacerlo ! Solo tengo una duda, si seguiré los pasos de una talla M, cuantos puntos debo montar para la orilla del escote o cuello? Es que en el patrón decía entre 63 a 84 puntos pero quiero estar segura, saludos!

DROPS Design 24.09.2019 kl. 23:48:

Hola Alejandra. Para el escote no hay un número determinado para cada talla. Son aprox. ente 63 puntos (para la talla S) y 84 puntos ( para la talla XXXL). La recomendación para la talla M es montar entre 66-69 puntos ( siempre un múltiplo de 3).

Hanne Gunnarsson 23.05.2019 - 13:38:

Hei! Jeg ser det er blitt spurt om før, men kan ikke se det er gitt et skikkelig svar på det. Etter helpatenten har jeg jo altfor mange masker! Første pinne helpatent økes det jo med vel 28 masker med alle kastene. Teller jeg riktig her nå, så har jeg 87 masker på pinnen. Det må da stå feil ant. masker i oppskriften??

DROPS Design 23.05.2019 kl. 14:57:

Hei Hanne. Kastene som lages som en del av helpatenten telles ikke som egne masker, de er 1 maske sammen med den masken som tas løs av - en dobbelmaske om du vil. Før helpatenten øker du 11-12-12-13-13-14 masker jevnt fordelt slik at du har 55-59-59-63-63-67 masker på pinnen. Maskeantallet forblir det samme hele veien. Etter at helpatenten er ferdig fortsettes det i glattstrikk: alle patent-kast strikkes sammen med masken som ble tatt løst av på siste patent-pinne. Samtidig felles det 5-7-4-5-2-3 masker jevnt fordelt. og du har da 50-52-55-58-61-64 masker på pinnen. God fornøyelse

Nathalie Fredriksen 23.04.2019 - 17:45:

Hei, jeg lurte bare på det med pinnene til denne oppskriften,jeg strikker veldig løst og har prøvd og finne dem men finner dem ikke på sidene deres

DROPS Design 26.04.2019 kl. 14:31:

Hei Nathalie. Det som avgjør hvilken pinnestørrelse du må ha er strikkefastheten din. Du sier at du strikker løst, og jeg vil da anta du kanskje må ha mindre pinner enn de som er angitt her. Den eneset måten å finne ut hvilke pinner du trenger er at du lager deg strikkeprøver, til du finner de pinnene som gir deg 14 masker i bredden og 17 pinner i høyden med glattstrikk = 10 x 10 cm. Gå ned ca 3 pinnestørrelser når du strikker vrangbord rundt ermet (dette er for å "stramme inn" ballongermene). her er en liste over alle butikker som selger våre produkter. God fornøyelse

Irene 05.04.2019 - 18:31:

Hola, muchas gracias por este hermoso patron, queria saber si en la cantidad de puntos a montar estan incluidos los 2 del borde (1 en cada lado), o si hay que incluirselos a parte de la cantidad que indica el patron. Muchas gracias

DROPS Design 05.04.2019 kl. 18:40:

Hola Irene! En la cantidad de puntos a montar estan incluidos los 2 del borde (1 en cada lado). Buen trabajo!

Trine 15.02.2019 - 09:09:

Hej:) Jeg er i tvivl om hvilken størrelse jeg skal strikke denne model i og jeg synes ikke jeg kan finde størrelsesvejledningen, som i skriver der er efter opskriften? Vh Trine

DROPS Design 18.02.2019 kl. 15:27:

hei Trine. Det ligger en målskisse nederst på siden, under oppskriften. har står alle plaggets mål i alle størrelser. Vi har nå dobbelsjekket den danske oppskriften, og målskissen ligger her også. God fornøyelse.

Catherine 29.01.2019 - 10:39:

Merci, j'ai terminé et c'est impeccable. Cette laine est un bonheur à travailler et à porter. J'en profite pour recommander le site Kalidou comme revendeurs Drops, ils sont vraiment bien.

Catherine 05.01.2019 - 14:05:

Bonjour, je vais réaliser ce modèle pour ma fille en taille M. Elle souhaite que je fasse les manches en jersey plutôt qu'en côtes anglaises et sans les diminutions de la fin pour les garder bien larges. Je dois prévoir la même quantité de laine, ou bien plus , ou moins ? merci d'avance pour votre réponse. Je tricote régulièrement vos modèles, qui sont magnifiques. Bonne année !

DROPS Design 07.01.2019 kl. 09:55:

Bonjour Catherine, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chaque modèle à chaque demande individuelle. Votre magasin saura en revanche vous conseiller même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

Alessia Loquenzi 27.10.2018 - 17:37:

Buongiorno, sto facendo il campione con una lana diversa ( usando il convertitore) e ho fatto il campione usando i ferri 7 anche se l'indicazione del gomitolo dice di usare il n. 5. È corretto? il campione mi viene 16 maglie X 17 ferri , devo aumentare il n. di ferri? Grazie mille Alessia

DROPS Design 27.10.2018 kl. 18:29:

Buongiorno Alessia. Provi a fare un campione con ferri di misura più grande. Buon lavoro!

Beryl Wilks 23.10.2018 - 11:20:

Sorry I am still not understanding .. finishing fishermans rib I have approx 81 sts, change to st st, dec 5sts evenly = 50 sts. what do I do with the other 31 sts which I gained from row one of fishermans rib yarn overs ? Do I carry on st st with 81 sts in total ?

DROPS Design 23.10.2018 kl. 14:41:

Dear Mrs Wilks, in size S you have a total of 55 sts worked in Fisherman's rib (including YOs of the pattern), on the first row stocking stitch work the YO and the slipped stitch together (= 1 stitch) and at the same time decrease 5 sts evenly (= work tog: YO, slipped st + stitch before/after this YO and slipped st) = 55-5= 50 sts. Happy knitting!

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