DROPS / 196 / 37

See You In Dublin by DROPS Design

Knitted skirt in DROPS Nord. Piece is knitted top down with false English rib. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern no-016
Yarn group A

Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS NORD from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-300-350-350-400-450 g color no 19, forest green


Garment will stretch when worn and has 2 knitting gauges.
Knitting gauge 1:
When garment is worked and is flat: 24 stitches in width and 24 rows vertically (measured in knit stitch) with false English rib = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
Knitting gauge 2:
When garment is worn: 20 stitches in width and 24 rows vertically (measured in knit stitch) with false English rib = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

DROPS CIRCULAR Needle size 3 mm / US 2.5, length 60 and 80 cm / 24'' and 32'' for false English rib.
DROPS CIRCULAR Needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5, length 60 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm / 4'' switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm / 4'' switch to smaller needles.

ACCESSORIES: approx. 70-120 cm / 27 ½"-47 ¼" elastic 

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

45% Alpaca, 30% Polyamide, 25% Wool
from 3.60 $ /50g
DROPS Nord uni colour DROPS Nord uni colour 3.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Nord mix DROPS Nord mix 3.70 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.



Texture in garment will stretch when worn and has 2 knitting gauges.
Knitting gauge 1 applies when garment is worked and is flat.
The garment should have this knitting gauge when it is worked.
Knitting gauge 2 is the knitting gauge the skirt will have at the waist when the garment is worn.
Knitting gauge vertically is given according to knit stitch, which is knitted over 1 round less than purl stitch, because knit stitch is slipped loosely on to right needle every other round. I.e. 24 rows vertically measured in knit stitch on 10 cm / 4'' = 48 rows measured in purl stitch on 10 vertically.
Measurements in chart are given in cm when garment is worn.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 172 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 26) = 6.6. 
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately approx. every 6th and 7th stitch. On next round work yarn over twisted to avoid hole.

All increases are done on a round where yarn over and knit stitch are knitted together.
Work 5 stitches in knit stitch and yarn over as follows: Knit yarn over and knit stitch together but wait to slip the yarn over and worked stitch off the needle * make 1 yarn over on right needle and knit knit stitch and yarn over together *, work from *-* 2 times in total = 5 stitches (= 4 stitches increased)

See diagram A.1.




Worked in the round on circular needle, top down. First work a hem to thread the elastic through. Then work rib and false English rib. Texture in garment will behave differently when garment is worn - read KNITTING GAUGE.

Cast on 172-188-202-228-250-292 stitches on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with Nord. Purl 1 round. Then work 4 rounds in stockinette stitch. Purl 1 round and increase 26-28-32-36-38-44 stitches evenly (= folding edge) - read INCREASE TIP-1 = 198-216-234-264-288-336 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the piece. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

Work rib (purl 2/knit 1) for 8 cm / 3 1/8''. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and work A.1 over all stitches (= 66-72-78-88-96-112 times in the round). When first round in A.1 has been worked, there are 132-144-156-176-192-224 stitches on needle. Yarn overs are not counted as stitches. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, repeat A.1a until finished measurements. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 10 cm / 4'' from marker thread, insert 1 marker in every 11th-12th-13th-11th-12th-14th knit stitch (= 6-6-6-8-8-8 markers). Then increase 4 stitches in every stitch with marker – read INCREASE TIP-2 (= 24-24-24-32-32-32 stitches increased).
Continue in the round with pattern, work the increased stitches in pattern. Increase like this every 4-4-4-4½-4½-4½ cm until piece measures 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm / 19''-19¾''-20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾'' from marker thread. There are approx. 348-384-396-464-512-544 stitches on needle. Adjust so that last round is a round with yarn overs. Then bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl, BUT bind off yarn overs as regular stitches by knitting, this is done to avoid a tight bind-off edge.

Fold the hem towards wrong side and fasten neatly by sewing, let there be a small opening to thread the elastic through.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 20.09.2018
Correction: piece is worked in false English rib (previously English rib)


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= purl 1
= purl 2 together
= 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch on to right needle purlwise
= knit yarn over and knit stitch together
= knitting direction

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 196-37) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (31)

Lara 02.01.2021 - 05:50:

Does anyone else find A1 not working for them? It works when I do rows, and does not when I try in rounds. Shouldn't it be "purl in one round, then knit in the next?" I watched a few videos of false English rib, it usually starts with "knit one " - not purl. Could this be an issue?

Lara 01.01.2021 - 05:36:

Dear Drops Design, Kristen seems to be right, the pattern appears to give the wrong side as "right side" when switching to false English rib. I looked up a video explaining false English rib, it appears that A1 diagram is somehow wrong, I am still trying to figure out what exactly the problem is. Maybe it has something to do with translation from Norwegian? Was anyone able to get it right using this pattern? Thank you.

Emma 18.11.2020 - 23:30:

Jeg har svært ved at forstå overgangen fra de 8 cm rib til det nye mønster. Bliver forvirret over strikkediagrammet og den vejledende video for falsk patent. Prøver de at forklare den samme ting?

DROPS Design 23.11.2020 kl. 16:00:

Hej Emma, første pind i diagrammet er anderledes end i videoen da du strikker 2 masker vrang sammen, men herefter strikkes de to omgange skiftevis som i videoen. God fornøjelse!

Lisia 14.11.2020 - 16:42:

Dit was de eerste keer dat ik in aanraking kwam met valse patentsteek en patentsteken überhaupt, na veel gepuzzel en googlen ontdekte ik een fout in het telpatroon. De averechtste steken in de tour van de dichte bolletjes (de toer met de extra omslagen) moeten rechtste steken zijn!

Jasmin 04.05.2020 - 19:06:

Danke für die schnelle Antwort. Ich habe meinen Fehler jetzt auch gefunden. Hatte die Strickschrift falschherum gelesen und bei A1 von oben und nicht von unten angefangen. Jetzt läuft es aber super. Das Videos sind sehr gut gemacht und wirklich hilfreich, sodass man auch als Anfänger die Anleitungen gut nachstricken kann. Danke auch dafür.

Jasmin 03.05.2020 - 23:45:

Ich bin jetzt an der Stelle angekommen, an der man zum Halbpatent wechselt (also mit A.1 anfängt). Aber irgendwie kommt es bei mir mit dem Muster nicht hin... Kann es sein, dass bei der ersten Reihe von A.1 ein Kästchen für eine linke Masche häkeln fehlt? Also dass es sein müsste einen Umschlag+abheben und dann zwei linke Maschen? Oder gehört das so und man sieht das nach dem zusammenstricken in der dritten Reihe nicht mehr?

DROPS Design 04.05.2020 kl. 15:49:

Liebe Jasmin, bei der 1. Reihe in A.1a stricken Sie: 2 M links zusammen, 1 Umschlag + 1 Masche abheben (= es sind nur noch 2 Maschen denn der Umschlag nnicht als Masche gerechnet wird (der Umschlag "gehört" zu den abgehonbenen Maschen). Und dies stets wiederholen. Bei der 2. Runde stricken Sie (1 Masche links, Umschlag + abgehobene Masche rechts zusammen stricken) - siehe auch dieses Video. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Mariona 03.05.2020 - 14:50:

Hola! Los 33cm de cintura de la talla pequeña en el esquema corresponde a la prenda puesta o a la prenda tejida? Entiendo por lo indicado que sería puesta, pero 33cm de ancho de cintura se me hace una talla de mujer MUY pequeña.

DROPS Design 19.11.2020 kl. 20:19:

Hola Mariona. Las medidas en el diagrama bajo el patrón son las medidas de la prenda tejida.

Kristen 23.02.2020 - 18:51:

No you misunderstand what I'm saying. The wrong side of the pattern is showing up on the outside when I switch to the A1 pattern. The hem is accurate with the rib on the outside of the skirt, but once I begin A1 and *P2 tog, then yarn over, slip 1 as if to P* and then continue on with the false english rib, the rib pattern is sowing up on the inside of the skirt. I pulled the whole project and started again and once I get to this point it happened again.

DROPS Design 24.02.2020 kl. 09:36:

Dear Kristen, sorry I may still misundertand what you mean here. After you have worked the first 3 rows in A.1 you should continue working A.1a = round 1: P1, Ktog YO and slipped st - round 2: P1, YO, slip st as if to P. Ie the first st in A.1 will always be purled and the 2nd st in A.1 (= the k stitch from the rib) will be worked alternately slipped with YO and knit tog with YO. Happy knitting!

Kristen 05.02.2020 - 23:28:

When I switched from knitting the rib to the English rib (purl 2, knit 1 - > A1 pattern) the wrong side is lining up with the original ribbing, so that the English rib is showing up on the INSIDE of the garment, and the wrong side is showing up on the outside. I'm confused about what has happened. I feel like I'm following the pattern exactly.

DROPS Design 06.02.2020 kl. 10:22:

Dear Kristen, on first row in A.1 you first work:*P2 tog, then yarn over, slip 1 as if to P* then you should get the correct stitches to work: *P1, Knit together yo and slipped stitch* - see video. Happy knitting!

Sissel 12.12.2019 - 20:48:

Hej, jeg tænker lige som Paula på miljøet i forhold til polyamid, men jeg tænker også på om rent uld vil gøre at nederdelen hurtigere bliver slidt og/eller bliver filtet til især på siddefladen?

DROPS Design 16.12.2019 kl. 15:36:

Hej Sissel, garn med polyamid vil være mere slidstærkt end det uden, men vi har også nederdele i ren Alpaca... :)

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