DROPS Design: Pattern no fa-412
Yarn group A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-150-150-200-200-200 g color 400, black
100-150-150-150-150-200 g color 913, winter
50-50-50-50-50-100 g colour 100, off white

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING GAUGE:
23 stitches in width and 45 rows in height with garter stitch = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM / US 4: lengths 40 cm and 80 cm for the garment.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM / US 2.5: lengths 40 cm/16" and 80 cm/32" for the edges.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm / 4'', change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm / 4'', change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 3.35 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 3.75 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 106 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 14) = 7.57. 
In this example, increase by making a yarn over after alternately each 7th and each 8th stitch (approx.). On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for the sides of the body):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over. Increase like this at both marker threads (= 4 stitches increased). On the next round, knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch. 

STRIPES:
Knit 1 round with black.
Knit 1 round with winter.
Repeat these 2 rounds.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked top down. The neck is worked in the round with circular needle. Then you continue with garter stitch and short rows, back and forth in sections; you increase in each section. You work 1 ridge in the round with off white between each section. There are a total of 6 sections. The yoke is divided for sleeves and body which are completed separately. The body is worked in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

NECK:
Cast on 106-110-115-122-127-134 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and black. Work 2 RIDGES in the round – read description above. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. Work 1 ridge in the round with off white and increase 14-15-15-8-13-16 stitches evenly on the first round (= the knitted round) – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 120-125-130-130-140-150 stitches.

YOKE:
The yoke is continued in sections, back and forth with short rows and in the round with garter stitch as follows:

SECTION 1:
Continue with winter as follows:
Work 2-2-3-4-4-4 ridges in the round.
Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round.
Now work section 1 with short rows back and forth in GARTER STITCH – read description above, as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit until there are 5 stitches left before the marker (= 115-120-125-125-135-145 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Knit until there are 5 stitches left before the marker (= 110-115-120-120-130-140 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 3 (= right side): Knit until there are 10 stitches left before the marker (= 105-110-115-115-125-135 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Knit until there are 10 stitches left before the marker (= 100-105-110-110-120-130 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 5 (= right side): Knit until there are 15 stitches left before the marker (= 95-100-105-105-115-125 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 6 (= wrong side): Knit until there are 15 stitches left before the marker (= 90-95-100-100-110-120 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
Continue like this, i.e. work 5 fewer stitches each time you turn, until you have worked 1 row over the last 10-15-10-10-10-10 stitches from the wrong side (= 11-11-12-12-13-14 ridges).
Cut the strand. Continue working in the round with off white as follows:
Start at the marker (= start of the round).
ROUND 1: * Knit 5 stitches, 1 yarn over (i.e. make 1 yarn over where the short row turned) * work from *-* to end of round (= 24-25-26-26-28-30 stitches increased) = 144-150-156-156-168-180 stitches.
ROUND 2: Purl all stitches (the yarn overs are not purled twisted; there will be holes). REMEMBER THE GAUGE!

SECTION 2:
Move the marker 72-75-78-78-84-90 stitches (i.e. the beginning of the round is displaced 72-75-78-78-84-90 stitches and section 2 is now worked, starting at the marker).
Continue with black as follows:
Work 2-2-3-4-4-4 ridges in the round AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 24-25-52-52-56-60 stitches on the first round (= knitted round) i.e. increase with 1 yarn over after every 6th-6th-3rd-3rd-3rd-3rd stitch. The yarn overs are worked twisted on the next round to avoid holes = 168-175-208-208-224-240 stitches.
Now work section 2 with short rows, back and forth in garter stitch as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit until there are 7-7-8-8-8-8 stitches left before the marker (= 161-168-200-200-216-232 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Knit until there are 7-7-8-8-8-8 stitches before the marker (= 154-161-192-192-208-224 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 3 (= right side): Knit until there are 14-14-16-16-16-16 stitches left before the marker (= 147-154-184-184-200-216 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Knit until there are 14-14-16-16-16-16 stitches left before the marker (= 140-147-176-176-192-208 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 5 (= right side): Knit until there are 21-21-24-24-24-24 stitches left before the marker (= 133-140-168-168-184-200 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 6 (= wrong side): Knit until there are 21-21-24-24-24-24 stitches left before the marker (= 126-133-160-160-176-192 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
Continue like this, i.e. work 7-7-8-8-8-8 fewer stitches each time you turn until you have worked 1 row over the last 14-21-16-16-16-16 stitches from the wrong side (= 11-11-12-12-13-14 ridges).
Cut the strand.
Continue in the round with off white as follows:
Start at the marker (= start of the round).
ROUND 1: Knit * 7-7-8-8-8-8 stitches, 1 yarn over (i.e. make 1 yarn over where the short row turned) * work from *-* to end of round (= 24-25-26-26-28-30 stitches increased) = 192-200-234-234-252-270 stitches.
ROUND 2: Purl all stitches (the yarn overs are not purled twisted, there will be holes).

SECTION 3:
Move the marker 96-100-117-117-126-135 stitches (i.e. the beginning of the round is displaced by 96-100-117-117-126-135 stitches, section 3 is worked starting at the marker).
Continue with winter as follows:
Work 2-2-3-4-4-4 ridges in the round AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 24-25-26-26-28-30 stitches evenly on the first round (= knitted round); i.e. increase by making 1 yarn over after every 8th-8th-9th-9th-9th-9th stitch. The yarn overs are worked twisted on the next round to avoid holes = 216-225-260-260-280-300 stitches.
Now work section 3 with short rows back and forth in garter stitch as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit until there are 9-9-10-10-10-10 stitches left before the marker (= 207-216-250-250-270-290 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Knit until there are 9-9-10-10-10-10 stitches left before the marker (= 198-207-240-240-260-280 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 3 (= right side): Knit until there are 18-18-20-20-20-20 stitches before the marker (= 189-198-230-230-250-270 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Knit until there are 18-18-20-20-20-20 stitches left before the marker (= 180-189-220-220-240-260 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 5 (= right side): Knit until there are 27-27-30-30-30-30 stitches left before the marker (= 171-180-210-210-230-250 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 6 (= wrong side): Knit until there are 27-27-30-30-30-30 stitches left before the marker (= 162-171-200-200-220-240 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
Continue like this, i.e. work 9-9-10-10-10-10 fewer stitches each time you turn until you have worked 1 row over the last 18-27-20-20-20-20 stitches from the wrong side (= 11-11-12-12-13-14 ridges).
Cut the strand.
Continue in the round with off white:
Start at the marker (= start of the round).
ROUND 1: Knit * 9-9-10-10-10-10 stitches, 1 yarn over (i.e. you make 1 yarn over where the short row turned) * work from *-* to end of round (= 24-25-26-26-28-30 stitches increased) = 240-250-286-286-308-330 stitches.
ROUND 2: Purl all stitches (the yarn overs are not purled twisted, there will be holes).

SECTION 4:
Move the marker 120-125-143-143-154-165 stitches (i.e. the beginning of the round is now displaced by 120-125-143-143-154-165 stitches, section 4 starts from the marker).
Continue working with black as follows:
Work 2-2-3-4-4-4 ridges in the round AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 24-25-26-26-28-30 stitches evenly spaced on the first round (= the knitted round); i.e. you increase with 1 yarn over after every 10th-10th-11th-11th-11th-11th stitch. The yarn overs are worked twisted on the next round to avoid holes = 264-275-312-312-336-360 stitches.
Now work section 4 with short rows back and forth in garter stitch as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit until there are 11-11-12-12-12-12 stitches left before the marker (= 253-264-300-300-324-348 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Knit until there are 11-11-12-12-12-12 stitches left before the marker (= 242-253-288-288-312-336 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 3 (= right side): Knit until there are 22-22-24-24-24-24 stitches left before the marker (= 231-242-276-276-300-324 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Knit until there are 22-22-24-24-24-24 stitches left before the marker (= 220-231-264-264-288-312 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 5 (= right side): Knit until there are 33-33-36-36-36-36 stitches left before the marker (= 209-220-252-252-276-300 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 6 (= wrong side): Knit until there are 33-33-36-36-36-36 stitches left before the marker (= 198-209-240-240-264-288 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
Continue like this, i.e. you work 11-11-12-12-12-12 fewer stitches each time you turn, until you have worked 1 row over the last 22-33-24-24-24-24 stitches from the wrong side (= 11-11-12-12-13-14 ridges).
Cut the strand.
Continue working in the round with off white as follows:
Start at the marker (= the start of the round).
ROUND 1: Knit * 11-11-12-12-12-12 stitches, 1 yarn over (i.e. you make 1 yarn over where the short row turned) * work from *-* to end of round (= 24-25-26-26-28-30 stitches increased) = 288-300-338-338-364-390 stitches.
ROUND 2: Purl all stitches (the yarn overs are not purled twisted, there will be holes).

SECTION 5:
Move the marker 144-150-169-169-182-195 stitches (i.e. the start of the round is now displaced by 144-150-169-169-182-195 stitches, section 5 starts from the marker).
Continue in winter as follows:
Work 2-2-3-4-4-4 ridges in the round AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 0-25-26-26-28-30 stitches evenly spaced on the first round (the knitted round) i.e. you increase with 1 yarn over after every 0-12th-13th-13th-13th.-13th stitch. The yarn overs are worked twisted on the next round to avoid holes = 288-325-364-364-392-420 stitches.
Now work section 5 with short rows back and forth in garter stitch as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit until there are 12-13-14-14-14-14 stitches left before the marker (= 276-312-350-350-378-406 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Knit until there are 12-13-14-14-14-14 stitches left before the marker (= 264-299-336-336-364-392 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 3 (= right side): Knit until there are 24-26-28-28-28-28 stitches left before the marker (= 252-286-322-322-350-378 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Knit until there are 24-26-28-28-28-28 stitches left before the marker (= 240-273-308-308-336-364 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 5 (= right side): Knit until there are 36-39-42-42-42-42 stitches left before the marker (= 228-260-294-294-322-350 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 6 (= wrong side): Knit until there are 36-39-42-42-42-42 stitches left before the marker (= 216-247-280-280-308-336 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
Continue like this, i.e. you work 12-13-14-14-14-14 fewer stitches each time you turn, until you have worked 1 row over the last 24-39-28-28-28-28 stitches from the wrong side (= 11-11-12-12-13-14 ridges).
Cut the strand.
Continue in the round with off white as follows:
Start at the marker (= the start of the round).
ROUND 1: Knit * 12-13-14-14-14-14 stitches, 1 yarn over (i.e. you make 1 yarn over where the short row turned) * work from *-* to end of round (= 24-25-26-26-28-30 stitches increased) = 312-350-390-390-420-450 stitches.
ROUND 2: Purl all stitches (the yarn overs are not purled twisted, there will be holes).

SECTION 6:
Move the marker 156-175-195-195-210-225 stitches (i.e. the start of the round is now displaced by 156-175-195-195-210-225 stitches, section 6 starts at the marker).
Continue with black as follows:
Work 2-2-3-4-4-4 ridges in the round AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 0-0-0-26-28-30 stitches evenly spaced on the first round (= the knitted round); i.e. you increase with 1 yarn over after every 0-0-0-15th-15th-15th stitch. The yarn overs are worked twisted on the next round to avoid holes = 312-350-390-416-448-480 stitches.
Now work section 6 with short rows back and forth in garter stitch as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit until there are 13-14-15-16-16-16 stitches left before the marker (= 299-336-375-400-432-464 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Knit until there are 13-14-15-16-16-16 stitches left before the marker (= 286-322-360-384-416-448 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 3 (= right side): Knit until there are 26-28-30-32-32-32 stitches left before the marker (= 273-308-345-368-400-432 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Knit until there are 26-28-30-32-32-32 stitches left before the marker (= 260-294-330-352-384-416 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 5 (= right side): Knit until there are 39-42-45-48-48-48 stitches left before the marker (= 247-280-315-336-368-400 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 6 (= wrong side): Knit until there are 39-42-45-48-48-48 stitches left before the marker (= 234-266-300-320-352-384 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
Continue like this, i.e. you work 13-14-15-16-16-16 fewer stitches each time you turn, until you have worked 1 row over the last 26-42-30-32-32-32 stitches from the wrong side (= 11-11-12-12-13-14 ridges).
Cut the strand.
Continue in the round with off white as follows:
Start at the marker (= the start of the round).
ROUND 1: Knit.
ROUND 2: Purl.
Cut the strand.
There are now 312-350-390-416-448-480 stitches on the needle. Displace the round by 33-37-41-43-44-46 stitches forward (i.e. slip the first 33-37-41-43-44-46 stitches (= half of the sleeve) over on the right needle, place a marker here = start of the round).
Now continue in the round in STRIPES – read description above. When the piece measures 21-23-24-26-28-30 cm / 8 ¼"-9"-9 3/8"-10 ¼"-11"-11 ¾" from the cast-on edge, divide the piece as follows:
Work the first 90-101-113-122-136-148 stitches (= back piece), place the next 66-74-82-86-88-92 stitches on a thread for the sleeve and cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under the sleeve, work the next 90-101-113-122-136-148 stitches (= front piece), place the next 66-74-82-86-88-92 stitches on a thread for the sleeve and cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under the sleeve = 196-218-246-264-296-320 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches under each sleeve and move the start of the round to one of these markers.

BODY:
Continue in the round in stripes. When the piece measures 3 cm / 1'' from where the sleeves were divided from the body, increase 1 stitch on each side of each marker thread - read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 4-4-8-6-8-6 cm / 1 ½"-1 ½"-3 1/8"-2 3/8"-3 1/8"-2 3/8" a total of 6-6-3-4-3-4 times = 220-242-258-280-308-336 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch and stripes until the body measures 30-30-31-31-31-31 cm / 11 ¾"-11 ¾"-12 1/8"-12 1/8"-12 1/8"-12 1/8" from where the sleeves were divided from the body. Change to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5. Now continue in garter stitch with black until the piece measures 33-33-34-34-34-34 cm / 13"-13"-13 3/8"-13 3/8"-13 3/8"-13 3/8" from where the body and sleeves were divided. Bind off with knit; make sure the bind-off edge is not tight; you can use a size larger needle if this is a problem.

SLEEVE:
Place the 66-74-82-86-88-92 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 74-82-92-96-100-104 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under the sleeve. Continue with stockinette and stripes. When the piece measures 1 cm / 3/8'' from where the sleeves were divided from the body, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2½-2-1½-1½-1½-1 cm a total of 13-16-20-20-21-22 times = 48-50-52-56-58-60 stitches. When the sleeve measures 39-38-37-36-35-33 cm / 15 ¼"-14 7/8"-14 ½"-14 1/8"-13 ¾"-13" from where the sleeves were divided from the body, change to double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5. Now continue with garter stitch and black until the sleeve measures 42-41-40-39-38-36 cm / 16 ½"-16 1/8"-15 ¾"-15 ¼"-14 7/8"-14 1/8" from where it was divided from the body. Bind off with knit; make sure the bind-off edge is not tight, you can use a size larger needle if this is a problem.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 15.08.2018
New yarn amount in colour 100, off white DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio 50-50-50-50-50-100 g colour 100, off white
Updated online: 14.09.2018
Correction: INCREASE TIP 2: Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread SLEEVE: Continue with stocking stitch and stripes

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = sections 1 to 6 - see information in the text
symbols = knitting direction
diagram
signature-image

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 195-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (64)

country flag Marie wrote:

Flot, flot trøje, men måske for svær for mig... Jeg er nu færdig med 1. stykke og har 15 masker på pinden, men jeg skal vel samle nogle masker op for at nå hele vejen rundt med natur?

14.02.2021 - 06:51:

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Marie, Ja den er ret så avanceret :). Du bør have alle masker på pinden, men du har strikket flere pinde over de sidste 15 masker. Nu klipper du tråden og starter ved mærket igen og strikker rundt over alle masker med natur. God fornøjelse!

16.02.2021 kl. 15:43:

country flag Christelle wrote:

Bonjour, pour la section 2 il faut décaler le marqueur de 78 mailles. Décale-t-on vers la gauche ( en avançant de 78) ou vers la droite, c'est-à-dire en reculant de 78 ? Merci

18.01.2021 - 22:32:

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Christelle, ce sera la même chose car vous décalez le début du tour de l'autre côté = au milieu du tour. Vous avez 156 mailles sur l'aiguille, le début du tour doit être maintenant au milieu de ces 156 m soit 78 m avant/après. Bon tricot!

19.01.2021 kl. 07:21:

country flag Lyn Jane Wenman wrote:

Hi, I am on section 2 and it says move the marker78 stitches , begging of round is displaced 78 , section 2 is worked starting at marker, how do I do that?

03.01.2021 - 15:17:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Wenman, simply slip the 78 sts from the left to the right needles without working them, and insert now the marker here. Happy knitting!

04.01.2021 kl. 16:15:

country flag Becker wrote:

Hallo, Nach der ersten zacke soll ja eine Trennlinie in natur kommen. Dies sieht allerdings nicht gut aus, da die letzte Reihe mit Winter eine Reihe mit rechts gestrickten Maschen ist. Könnte ich evtl eine Reihe mit linken Maschen drüber stricken, damit die Abgrenzung so wie ganz am Anfang aussieht oder wird das dann Zuviel bzw. habe ich evtl was falsch verstanden? Vielen Dank im voraus und liebe Grüsse Becker

22.11.2020 - 21:13:

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Becker, wegen den verkürzten Reihen, werden nicht alle Maschen gleich aussehen (= einige Maschen werden rechts, andere links), die Natur-Streife wird dann über alle Maschen gestrickt um die unterschiedlichen Streifen zu "trennen", gerne können Sie anders stricken, wie Sie es lieber haben. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

23.11.2020 kl. 09:56:

country flag Ute Ortland wrote:

Ich habe jetzt die erste Zacke fertig mit restlichen zehn Maschen. Jetzt soll ich den Faden abschneiden und an der Markierung mit einer neuen Farbe in Runden anfangen, bin aber jetzt in der Mitte von der Arbeit. Soll ich also alle Maschen jetzt auf die linke Nadel nehmen und dann mit einer Runde rechte Maschen weitermachen? Ich verstehe das leider nicht

15.07.2020 - 21:15:

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Ortland, wenn der Faden geschnitten ist, heben Sie alle Maschen von die linke auf die rechte Nadel bis der Markierung, dh diese Maschen stricken Sie nicht, die nächste Runde soll bei der Markierer anfangen. Viel Spaß beim strickne!

16.07.2020 kl. 09:55:

country flag Anja M wrote:

Fertig :-) Wunderschöner, leicht zu strickender Pulli, der "dank Corona" sehr schnell gestrickt war.

09.05.2020 - 18:14:

country flag Ulla Steffensen wrote:

Vedr. Denne opskrift. Ved ny farve skal markeringen flyttes et antal masker fra markøren. Er det den startmarkøren ? Hvis jeg flytter den fremad så er starten et andet sted og mønsteret bliver forkert. Skal markøren fra første pind være den stationære, så jeg starter der hver gang.

02.03.2020 - 13:15:

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ulla, det er mærket du sætter ved STYKKE 1 som du flytter når du starter med STYKKE 2, så du starter i den anden side. Se også måleskitsen nederst i opskriften. God fornøjelse!

03.03.2020 kl. 15:20:

country flag Else Berg wrote:

På Bit 1 nederst på siden Omgang 1,der står det at jeg skal strikke 5 masker rett,1 kast der jeg snudde,men jeg får økt bare 24 masker ikke 26 m som det står,hvor skal jeg øke dem 2 siste maskene

11.12.2019 - 15:04:

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Else, du har 130 masker og tager 1 ud for hver 5.maske = 26 masker økt. God fornøjelse!

17.12.2019 kl. 11:59:

country flag Sarah-Jane Saumure wrote:

I love this.

15.11.2019 - 03:09:

country flag Silvana wrote:

Aiuto! Ho finito i ferri accorciati. Devo fare il giro con il panna , ma io mi trovo al centro del lavoro! Come ci arrivo al segna punti di inizio giro per iniziare il giro con il panna?sono sul rovescio e il segnapunti si trova a sinistra a una sessantina di maglie circa. Finisco il giro a rovescio fino al sp? Grazie aspetto con ansia e grazie per la risposta precedente

06.10.2019 - 15:18:

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiormo Silvana, sta sempre lavorando la sezione 1? Alla fine dei ferri accorciati è indicato di tagliare il filo per iniziare con il panna all'altezza del segnapunti di inizio giro. Buon lavoro!

06.10.2019 kl. 16:48:

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