DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.00$. Read more.
DROPS 189-36
DROPS Design: Pattern no u-851
Yarn group B
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Sizes: US: 5/6½ - 7½/9 - 10/12
EU: 35/37 - 38/40 – 41/44

Foot length: 22-24-27 cm / 8¾''-9½''-10½''
Leg length: 17-18-19 cm /6 3/4"-7"-7½"
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
100-100-100 g color 66, light dusty pink
50-50-50 g color 30, light denim blue
50-50-50 g color 13, cerise
50-50-50 g color 01, off white

If you are knitting the socks with just one color, you will need approx. 100-150-150 g Karisma.

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group B)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM / US 4 – or the size needed to get 22 stitches and 30 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

STRIPES:
Work stripes as follows:
* 2 rounds light denim blue, 2 rounds light dusty pink *, work from *-* a total of 3 times. * 2 rounds cerise, 2 rounds light dusty pink *, work from *-* a total of 3 times. * 2 rounds off white, 2 rounds light dusty pink *, work from *-* a total of 3 times.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 stitch by lifting up the strand between 2 stitches, place the strand on the left needle and knit it twisted.
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SOCK:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles down the leg, the heel is worked back and forth and knitted together mid underneath. Then the foot is worked in the round with double pointed needles.

LEG:
Cast on 44-48-52 stitches with light dusty pink and double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4. Work rib as follows:
SIZES 35/37 and 41/44: Knit 1, * purl 2 / knit 2 *, work from *-* and finish with knit 1.
SIZE 7½/9 (EU38/40): Knit 2 / purl 2 to end of round.

ALL SIZES: Work 6 rounds with light dusty pink, then continue with rib and work STRIPES – see description above. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When the stripes are finished, continue with light dusty pink until the piece measures 17-18-19 cm/6 3/4"-7"-7½". Work stockinette stitch over the first 24-26-28 stitches on the round (= heel stitches), work rib as before over the next 20-22-24 stitches and then place these stitches on a thread (= top of foot).

HEEL:
Continue by working stockinette stitch back and forth over the heel stitches; on the first row from the right side increase stitches for a better fit as follows: Knit 9-10-11 stitches, increase 1 stitch - read INCREASE TIP, * knit 2 stitches, increase 1 stitch *, work from *-* a total of 3 times and then knit to end of row = 28-30-32 stitches on needle.
Continue back and forth with stockinette stitch until the heel measures approx. 5-5½-6 cm / 2''-2 1/4''-2½'', insert 1 marker in middle of row. On the next row from the right side work as follows:
Knit 10-11-12 stitches, knit together the next 8 stitches 2 and 2, knit the last 10-11-12 stitches = 24-26-28 stitches.
Turn and purl back. Knit 1 row from the right side.
Now work back and forth from the wrong side to work the heel stitches together.

WORKING THE HEEL STITCHES TOGETHER:
All rows are worked from the wrong side. Turn and purl the first 12-13-14 stitches from the wrong side. Make sure that the strand is at the back of the piece (= lies towards the right side) and work as follows:

LEFT NEEDLE: Knit 2 stitches twisted together, move the knitted-together stitches back onto the left needle and tighten the strand. Do not turn the piece.

RIGHT NEEDLE: Insert the left needle into the 2 next stitches on the right needle (insert from left to right and make sure the left needle lies behind the right needle), pick up the strand and take it around the left needle, then pull the strand through these 2 stitches (from right to left) and drop the 2 stitches from the right needle. Then move the knitted-together stitches back onto the right needle and tighten the strand. Do not turn the piece.

Repeat LEFT and RIGHT NEEDLE like this until there are 2 stitches left. Now the heel stitches have been worked together. Place the 2 remaining stitches on the right needle and turn the piece to the right side.

FOOT:
Knit up 11-12-13 stitches along the first side of the heel (inside 1 stitch), place the stitches from the thread back on the needle and work rib over these stitches as before, knit up 11-12-13 stitches along the other side of the heel (inside 1 stitch) = 44-48-52 stitches. Continue with rib on top and stockinette stitch under and on the sides of the sock - AT THE SAME TIME work STRIPES. When the stripes are finished, continue with light dusty pink. Work until the piece measures 19-20-23 cm from the marker on the heel (there are 3-4-4 cm/1"-1½"-1½" left to finished length). Insert 1 marker in each side of the foot (so that there are 22-24-26 stitches both on top and under the foot). Continue working in stockinette stitch and decrease to toe on each side of each marker as follows:
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 stitches twisted together, knit 2 (the marker sits in the middle of these 2 stitches) and knit 2 together, repeat at the second marker. Decrease like this every round until there are 8 stitches left, knit 2 and 2 stitches together on the next round = 4 stitches. Cut the strand and pull it through the stitches a couple of times, tighten and fasten well.

Work 1 more sock in the same way.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (4)

country flag Gaetane wrote:

Bonjour! Comment ne pas faire de demarquation, lorsque rendu au rayures, en changeant de couleur en faisant des côtes ? Les m end ça va mais à l envers c est pas joli vu sur l endroit ! Alors comment on procède ? Merci 🙏

14.01.2024 - 01:14

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Gaetane, vous pouvez serrer légèrement le fil à la transition des rangs, ou bien utiliser en partie cette technique. Bon tricot!

15.01.2024 - 09:22

country flag Annemarie wrote:

Hello I like to make this pattern a favorite but I don't understand how I must send this to bookmark first and then make it a favorite

19.02.2020 - 10:59

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Annemarie, to bookmark a pattern as a favorite, click on the black heart (just after Need Help/Print buttons), and follow instructions. Happy knitting!

19.02.2020 - 11:54

country flag Wilmo wrote:

Hello, I do not understand how to work the heel stitches together - do you have a video please?

13.04.2019 - 00:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hello Wilmo. The following video can help you. Happy knitting!

13.04.2019 - 09:12

country flag Semb wrote:

Et helt enkelt spørsmål : Når man strikker striper som på disse sokkene, kuttes tråden av for hver gang en skal begynne på ny farge??? Jeg syns det blir masse tråder å feste, men det er ikke alltid det blir like pent å la tråden følge nedover heller....jeg strikker en del for andre, og syns det er ok at vrangen også ser ok ut !!!

14.02.2019 - 17:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Semb. Dette blir en smakssak, men det letteste er vel å la tråden følge med når det strikkes 3 små striper i samme farge (for eksempel blå) og når de 3 stripene er ferdig, kutt tråden. Det er kun 2 omganger mellom hver gang fargen brukes, så tråden trenger ikke følge med så langt mellom hver gang. Hvis du trenger tips til hvordan å tvinne tråden på baksiden slik at den ikke henger løst kan du se på denne videoen: . God fornøyelse

18.02.2019 - 12:11