DROPS / 191 / 34

Wild Berries by DROPS Design

Jumper with raglan, ¾ sleeves and vent in the sides, worked top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted with 1 strand DROPS Big Delight and 1 strand DROPS Melody.

DROPS design: Pattern db-089
Yarn group C + D
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS BIG DELIGHT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
200-200-300-300-300-300 g colour 01, rose garden
and use:
DROPS MELODY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group D)
150-150-150-150-200-200 g colour 06, powder pink

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 12 mm – or size needed to get 8 stitches and 10 rows in stocking stitch with 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands) = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 4.60 £ /100g
DROPS Big Delight print DROPS Big Delight print 4.60 £ /100g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd

71% Alpaca, 25% Wool, 4% Polyamide
from 3.50 £ /50g
DROPS Melody uni colour DROPS Melody uni colour 3.50 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.70£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

Increase for raglan on each side of every marker thread (= 8 stitches increased on round): 
Work until 1 stitch remains before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), make 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn overs to make holes.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use total number of stitches
on needle (i.e. 36 stitches) and divide with number of increases to be
done (i.e. 2) = 18. In this example make 1 yarn over after approx.
every 18th stitch. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to body):
All increases are done from right side.
Increase 1 stitch by making a yarn over. On next round purl yarn over twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
All decreases are done from the right side!
Decrease after 1 edge stitch as follows: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over
Decrease before 1 edge stitch as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain on needle, knit 2 together, work last stitch on needle.

Worked top down. First work the yoke in the round on circular needle, then work the body in the round down to vent in each side and finally work front and back piece separately. Work sleeves back and forth on circular needle.

Cast on 36-39-39-42-42-45 stitches on circular needle size 12 mm with 1 strand Big Delight and 1 strand Melody (= 2 strands). Knit 1 round. Work rib (knit 1/purl 2) for 5 cm. Insert a marker thread here. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Knit 1 round while increasing 2-1-3-8-10-9 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly) = 38-40-42-50-52-54 stitches. Insert 4 marker threads in piece without working stitches as follows:
Insert first marker thread after 7-8-8-10-11-11 stitches (= half back piece), second marker thread after another 4 stitches (= sleeve), third marker thread after another 15-16-17-21-22-23 stitches (= front piece), fourth marker thread after another 4 stitches (= sleeve), there are now 8-8-9-11-11-12 stitches for half back piece.
Work in stocking stitch in the round, AT THE SAME TIME on first round begin increase for RAGLAN – see explanation above. Increase like this every other round 10-11-11-12-13-14 times in total = 118-128-130-146-156-166 stitches. After last increase, knit 1 round, then work 1 round while only increasing for raglan on sleeves (= 4 stitches increased on round) = 122-132-134-150-160-170 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Piece should now measure 23-25-25-27-29-31 cm from marker thread after rib in the neck mid front.
Work next round as follows: Work 17-19-19-22-24-25 stitches (= half back piece), slip the next 26-28-28-30-32-34 stitches on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 4-4-6-6-6-6 stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work 35-38-39-45-48-51 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 26-28-28-30-32-34 stitches on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 4-4-6-6-6-6 stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work the remaining 18-19-20-23-24-26 stitches on needle (= half back piece). Insert a marker thread in the piece. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

= 78-84-90-102-108-114 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in each side, in the middle of the new stitches cast-on under each sleeve (= 2-2-3-3-3-3 new stitches on each side of marker thread). Continue in the round in stocking stitch. When piece measures 10 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of marker thread in each side - read INCREASE TIP-2 = 82-88-94-106-112-118 stitches. Continue to work in the round until piece measures 16-16-18-18-18-18 cm. Cut the yarn. Slip the 41-44-47-53-56-59 stitches between the 2 marker threads on front piece on a stitch holder, and continue back and forth over the 41-44-47-53-56-59 stitches on back piece as follows – from right side:
2 stitches in garter stitch, (knit 1, purl 2) until 3 stitches remain on needle, knit 1, 2 stitches in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this until rib measures 10 cm. Cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Make sure that the cast-off edge is not too tight. Jumper measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from shoulder and down.
Slip the 41-44-47-53-56-59 stitches from stitch holder back on circular needle and work rib on front piece the same way as on back piece.

Work sleeves back and forth on circular needle and sew together when finished. Slip the 26-28-28-30-32-34 stitch from stitch holder back on circular needle size 12 mm, and cast on 2-2-3-3-3-3 new stitches in each side = 30-32-34-36-38-40 stitches. Work in stocking stitch back and forth over all stitches. When piece measures 3-2-3-3-4 cm, decrease 1 stitch in each side of piece – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this approx. every 4-3-3-2-2-1 cm 5-6-6-7-7-8 times in total = 20-20-22-22-24-24 stitches. When sleeve measures 19-17-18-16-15-14 cm, work 1 round while increasing 1-1-2-2-0-0 stitches evenly = 21-21-24-24-24-24 stitches. Work rib as follows: purl 1, * knit 1, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until 2 stitches remain, knit 1, purl 1. Continue rib like this with knit over knit and purl over purl until rib measures 8 cm. Cast off knitting from right side. Sleeve measures approx. 27-25-26-24-23-22 cm from division.

Sew seams under sleeves in outer loops of edge stitches to avoid a chunky seam. Sew the opening under the sleeves.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 191-34) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (11)

Daniela 27.02.2020 - 00:06:

Sono alla parte in cui si lasciano sui fermamaglie le maglie corrispondenti alle maniche

DROPS Design 27.02.2020 kl. 09:18:

Buongiorno Daniela. Nel video che alleghiamo, a partire dal minuto 7:00 , trova spiegato come mettere in attesa le maglie delle maniche e avviare le nuove maglie sotto le maniche. Buon lavoro!

Daniela 26.02.2020 - 18:04:

Salve, come e su quale ferro si aggiungono le quattro maglie per la manica? Grazie

DROPS Design 26.02.2020 kl. 21:14:

Buonasera Daniela, può spiegarci meglio a quale parte del modello sta facendo riferimento? Grazie, buon lavoro!

Geraldine 22.12.2018 - 02:45:

Como aumento los 4 puntos de las mangas? Dice que tejas una vuelta de derecho y solo se aumenta en las mangas. No entiendo

DROPS Design 30.12.2018 kl. 15:34:

Hola Geraldine. Se trabajan los aumentos después del marcapuntos entre el cuerpo y la manga y antes del marcapuntos entre la manga y el cuerpo.

Melinda Fülöp 25.09.2018 - 14:08:

Hej Ska göra resåret nere på tröjan. Ska man sticka 2 maskor räta och sen fortsätta med 1 rät och 2 aviga? Eller hur menar ni?

DROPS Design 26.09.2018 kl. 14:21:

Jo, det blir precis så, först 2 rätstickade maskor, sedan 1 rät, 2 aviga, 1 rät, 2 aviga, osv.

Melinda Fülöp 12.09.2018 - 18:31:

Hej Har stickat raglanökningen. Har 132 maskor. Ska arbetet mäta 25 cm direkt efter det eller ska man fortsätta sticka tills arbetet mäter det och sen dela av för ärmarna?

DROPS Design 13.09.2018 kl. 08:08:

Hei Melinda. Arbeidet skal måle 25 cm når alle økninger til raglan er ferdig. Om ikke det gjør det skyldes nok dette en litt stram strikkefasthet. Litt avhengig av hvor mye kortere bærestykket ditt er kan du strikke videre (uten økning til raglan) til arbeidet måler 25 cm. Du kan eventuelt prøve plagget på for å se hvordan det blir. Om du setter av til ermer før arbeidet måler 25 cm blir bærestykket for kort. God fornøyelse

J De Weme 27.08.2018 - 14:08:

Kan ik de mouwen ook gewoon rondbreien?

DROPS Design 27.08.2018 kl. 21:23:

Dag J De Weme, Ja, dat kan. Je hoeft dan geen steken op te zetten aan beide kant van de mouwen, maar in plaats daarvan plaats je een hulpdraad midden onder de mouw en minder je aan beide kanten van de hulpdraad (ipv naast de kantsteken)

Rita 05.07.2018 - 21:59:

Cosa significa: 1 giro in cui aumentare solo per il raglan delle maiche (= 4 aumenti sul giro)? grazie rira

DROPS Design 05.07.2018 kl. 22:13:

Buonasera Rita. Deve lavorare un giro e durante questo giro aumenta per il raglan come fatto in precedenza, ma aumenta solo sulle maglie delle maniche e non aumenta sul davanti e sul dietro. Quindi aumenta dopo il 1° segnapunti e prima del secondo (tra questi segnapunti ci sono le m della manica) e dopo il 3° segnapunti e prima del 4°. Gli aumenti non sono 8, ma solo 4. Buon lavoro!

Marithé 20.05.2018 - 06:22:

Comment tricoter ce pull avec des aiguilles droites ?? merci -

DROPS Design 22.05.2018 kl. 08:28:

Bonjour Marithé, vous trouverez ici quelques indications vous permettant d'adapter un modèle sur aiguilles droites. Il est parfois plus simple de tricoter en rond, n'hésitez pas à essayer à l'aide de nos vidéos, beaucoup ont réussi à les "dompter" en essayant et ne les lâchent plus. Bon tricot!

Karin Knöbel 13.05.2018 - 11:03:

Aus der Anleitung geht nicht hervor wofür die Rundnadel Nr 12 40cm gebraucht wird.Gibt es eine 40cm lange Rundnadel überhaupt in 12mm??

DROPS Design 14.05.2018 kl. 10:49:

Liebe Frau Knöbel, die 40 cm Rundnadel wird am Anfang (Halsausschnitt) gebraucht, dh wenn es zu wenig Maschen für die 80 cm Nadel gibt - Diese Nadel können Sie mit dem Set und austauchbare Spitze haben. Gerne können Sie auch mit dem Magic-Loop technik stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Aleksandra Karolina Strugacz 01.01.2018 - 21:47:

Den har jeg lyst å strikke :-)

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