DROPS / 191 / 11

Mamma Mia by DROPS Design

Crocheted poncho with lace pattern and fringes, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Paris.

Tags: lace, ponchos,
DROPS Design: Pattern no w-679
Yarn group C or A + A
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Sizes: S/M - L/XL - XXL/XXXL
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
650-800-950 g colour 33, medium pink
50-50-50 g colour 17, off white

The piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group C)" – see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 MM – or the size needed to get 17 treble crochets on 10 cm in width.

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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 0.95 £ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.05 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 0.95 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.30£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.7.

CROCHET INFORMATION:
A.1a, A.2a, A.3a, A.4a, A.5a, A.6a and A.7a show how the rounds begin and end. These stitches are worked in addition to the relevant diagram and are not counted in the number of stitches.

INCREASE TIP:
Work 2 treble crochets in the same stitch. When increasing evenly, increase evenly along each long side i.e. from mid-space to mid-space.

MEASURING TIP:
All lengths are measured from the cast-on edge – measure vertically from the shoulder, not from the mid-space.

DECREASE TIP:
Work 1 treble crochet, but wait with the last yarn over and pull through, work 1 treble crochet in the next stitch and pull the last yarn over through all 3 loops on the hook.
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The piece is worked in the round, top down. Start by increasing on each side of the shoulders and mid front/back, then just increase mid front and back.

PONCHO:
Work 146-146-146 chain stitches with hook size 4 mm and medium pink and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch. Work 3 chain stitches, then work 1 treble crochet in each of the first 2-2-2 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 5 chain stitches *, work from *-* a total of 24-24-24 times on the round, finish with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round = 122-122-122 treble crochets + 3 chain stitches on the round.

Now work pattern in the round according to the diagrams – read CROCHET INFORMATION and REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION, as follows:

CROCHET A.1 AS FOLLOWS:
Beginning of round = middle of shoulder. Work A.1b, A.1c, A.1b a total of 3 times in width, A.1d (= mid front), A.1b a total of 3 times in width, A.1c, A.1b a total of 2 times in width (shoulder is in the middle of these 2 repetitions), A.1c, A.1b a total of 3 times in width, A.1d (= mid back), A.1b a total of 3 times in width, A.1c, finish with A.1b -AT THE SAME TIME increase on each round marked with an arrow in the diagram – read INCREASE TIP, as follows:
ARROW-1: Increase 0-6-12 treble crochets evenly along each long side (= a total of 0-12-24 treble crochets increased).
ARROW -2: Increase 6-6-18 treble crochets evenly along each long side (=a total of 12-12-36 treble crochets increased).
ARROW -3: Increase 6-6-12 treble crochets evenly along each long side (=a total of 12-12-24 treble crochets increased).
When A.1 has been completed in height, there are 108-114-138 treble crochets between the chain-spaces mid front and back (= a total of 216-228-276 treble crochets on the round + 2 chain-spaces. The piece measures approx. 8 cm – read MEASURING TIP.

CROCHET A.2 AS FOLLOWS:
Work A.2b a total of 9-10-12 times, A.2c over the mid-space, A.2b a total of 18-19-23 times, A.2c over the mid-space, A.2b a total of 9-9-11 times in width. When A.2 has been completed in height you have increased a total of 4 repeats on the round.

CROCHET A.3 AS FOLLOWS:
Work A.3b a total of 10-11-13 times, A.3c over the mid-space, A.3b a total of 20-21-25 times, A.3c over the mid-space, A.3b a total of 10-10-12 times in width. When A.3 has been completed in height you have increased a total of 4 repeats on the round. The piece measures approx. 24 cm.
Continue according to A.3 for sizes L/XL and XXL/XXXL as follows:
Work the last 2-4 rounds of A.3 as follows: Work A.3b a total of 12-14 times, A.3c over the mid-space, A.3b a total of 23-27 times, A.3c over the mid-space, A.3b a total of 11-13 times in width. When these 2-4 rounds have been completed in height you have increased a total of 4-4 repeats on the round. The piece measures approx. 27-30 cm.

ALL SIZES:
WORK A.4 AS FOLLOWS:
Work A.4b a total of 11-13-15 times, A.4c over mid-space, A.4b a total of 22-25-29 times, A.4c over mid-space, A.4b a total of 11-12-14 times in width. When A.4 has been completed in height, you have increased a total of 4 repeats on the round. There are now 144-162-186 treble crochets between the chain-spaces mid front and back (= a total of 288-324-372 treble crochets + 2 chain-spaces on the round).

WORK A.5 AS FOLLOWS:
Work A.5b a total of 12-14-16 times, A.5c over mid-space, A.5b a total of 24-27-31 times, A.5c over mid-space, A.5b a total of 12-13-15 times in width - AT THE SAME TIME decrease on the rounds marked with an arrow in the diagram – read DECREASE TIP, as follows: Decrease 0-6-6 treble crochets evenly along each long side (= a total of 0-12-12 treble crochets decreased).
When A.5b has been completed in height, you have increased a total of 4-2-2 repeats (of 6 stitches) on the round. There are now 156-168-192 treble crochets between the chain-spaces mid front and back (= a total of 312-336-384 treble crochets + 2 chain-spaces on the round).

WORK A.6 AS FOLLOWS:
Work A.6b, A.6c a total of 6-7-8 times, A.6d over the mid-space, A.6c a total of 13-14-16 times in width, A.6d over the mid-space, A.6c a total of 6-6-7 times in width, A.6e. When A.6 has been completed in height, you have increased a total of 2 repeats (of 12 stitches) on the round. There are now 168-180-204 treble crochets between the chain-spaces mid front and back (= a total of 336-360-408 treble crochets + 2 chain-spaces on the round). The piece measures approx. 37-40-48 cm.

WORK A.7 AS FOLLOWS:
In sizes L/XL and XXL/XXXL cut the strand, start the next round with 1 slip stitch in the 6th treble crochet (= mid shoulder).
Work A.7b a total of 14-15-17 times, A.7c over mid-space, A.7b a total of 28-30-34 times, A.7c over mid-space, A.7b a total of 14-15-17 times in width. When A.7 has been completed in height, you have increased 4 repeats (of 6 stitches) on the round. There are now 180-192-216 treble crochets between the chain-spaces mid front and back (= a total of 360-384-432 treble crochets + 2 chain-spaces on the round). The piece measures approx. 42-45-48 cm.

WORK A.2 AS FOLLOWS:
Work A.2b a total of 15-16-18 times, A.2c over mid-space, A.2b a total of 30-32-36 times, A.2c over mid-space, A.2b a total of 15-16-18 times in width. When A.2b has been completed in height, you have increased a total of 4 repeats (of 6 stitches) on the round. Cut and fasten the strand. The piece measures approx. 45-48-51 cm (approx. 54-57-60 cm along the mid-space).

TASSELS:
Cut 4 strands medium pink and 2 strands off white of 25 cm each. Fold then double, thread the loop from the right side into the chain-space of a treble crochet group on the last round. Then thread the ends of the strands through the loop and tighten gently. Fasten a tassel to each chain-space in each treble crochet group. To make sure the tassels hang neatly, they should be moistened, shaken and then dried.

Diagram

= chain stitch
= double crochet in stitch
= double crochet around chain-space
= treble crochet in stitch
= treble crochet around chain stitch/chain-space
= double treble crochet around chain-space
= triple treble crochet around chain-space
= work 1 double treble crochet around chain-space before the treble crochet group, but wait with the last yarn over and pull through, work 1 double treble crochet around the chain-space after the treble crochet group and pull the last yarn over through all 3 loops on the hook
= work 1 double treble crochet in each of the next 2 stitches, but wait with the last yarn over and pull through on both of these double treble crochets, work 1 double treble crochet in the next stitch and pull the last yarn over through all 4 loops on the hook
= 1 double crochet between 2 double treble crochets
= the round has already been worked, start on the next round
= increase/decrease round
= The round begins with 1 chain stitch and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch at the beginning of the round
= The round begins with 3 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round
= The round begins with 5 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 5th chain stitch at the beginning of the round




Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 191-11) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (15)

Eyglo Guðsteins 26.10.2019 - 02:26:

Ég er komin að fyrstu umferðinni sem er með ör. Mér sýnist að það sé útaukning í teikningunni. Eða a ég að auka ut eins og stendur í uppskriftinni (ör 1 etc) biðst afsökunar að vera alltaf að spyrja

DROPS Design 26.10.2019 kl. 11:49:

Blessuð, það er ágætt að lesa uppskriftina og fara eftir henni, sýnist að þetta sé rétt hjá þér og að þú sért komin að útaukningu við örina og eigir að auka út um 0-6-12 stuðla jafnt yfir meðfram hvorri langhlið (= alls 0-12-24 stuðlar fleiri). Vona að þetta hjálpi. Gangi þér vel :)

Eygló Guðsteins 12.10.2019 - 18:42:

Ég skil ekki alveg hvernig teikningin virkar. Á að byrja neðst og fara frá hægri til vinstri? þegar kemur:heklið A1b, A1c,A1b alls þrisvar á ég þá að geta allt það eða bara þá stærð sem ég er að gera sem í mínu tilvikí er miðju stærðin A1c

DROPS Design 14.10.2019 kl. 09:32:

Blessuð! Stærðirnar eru S/M - L/XL - XXL/XXXL, þú fylgir þinni stærð og heklar mynstrin eins og útskýrt er í uppskrift, síðan eru mismunandi margir stuðlar sem þú heklar eftir stærðum. Við erum með leiðbeiningar á síðunni okkar um hvernig lesa á mynstur, svo eru kennslumyndbönd sem tilheyra þessu mynstri.

Eyglo Gudsteinsdottir 06.10.2019 - 21:51:

Eg hef heklað í mörg ár og heklað gardínur, stóra og litla dúka og barna teppi. En hef aldrei heklað eftir mynstur teikningu. Er alveg rugluð á öllum þessum merkjum, en elska myndina af þessu poncho og langar að hekla það handa sonar dóttur minni. Er nokkur leið að fá þetta í UPPSKRIFT í staðinn fyrir teikningu???????? MÆTTI ALVEG EINS VERA Á ENSKU EF ÞAÐ ER TIL Í UPPSKRIFT.

DROPS Design 07.10.2019 kl. 15:37:

Blessuð Eygló, því miður er ekki hægt að verða við ósk þinni en þetta mynstur er einungis gefið út svona. Við hvetjum þig þó til að prufa að fara eftir leiðbeiningunum. Þetta er ekki svo flókið þegar maður setur sig inn í þetta. Gangi þér vel.

Veronica Miles 27.06.2019 - 11:34:

Why are some comments in a different language, I can't understand it?

DROPS Design 28.06.2019 kl. 12:56:

Dear Veronica, because the site is available in 17 langauges, and people from around the workd have questions in their own language. We try and reply every question on the language we received it. Happy Crafting!

Manuela 24.03.2019 - 08:52:

Buongiorno vorreri chiarimeneti su come sviluppare la parte "Lavorare il diagramma A.1." non riesco a seguire la spiegazione, per esempio questa parte "Lavorare: diagramma A.1b, diagramma A.1c, diagramma A.1b in tutto 3 volte in larghezza" cosa significa? Potete per favore essere più chiari su tutta questa parte di schema, sono bloccata con il lavoro. Grazie.

DROPS Design 24.03.2019 kl. 13:07:

Buongiorno Manuela. Deve lavorare come segue:diagramma A.1b, A.1c, lavora 3 volte il diagramma A.1b, A.1d, lavora 3 volte A.1b, A.1c, lavora 2 volte A.1b, diagramma A.1c, lavora 3 volte A.1b, A.1d, lavora 3 volte A.1b, A.1c, A.1b. Buon lavoro!

Elizabeth Burton 04.01.2019 - 15:58:

I'm not very good is at reading diagrams; is this pattern actually written out anywhere? I go past a lot of the pieces because if the diagram only directions. It is an absolutely beautiful poncho. Thank you so much.

DROPS Design 07.01.2019 kl. 08:09:

Dear Mrs Burton, there is only diagrams to this pattern - each symbol represents 1 st/group of st - see diagram key. Start reading diagrams on the bottom corner on the right side (the row after the star) from the right towards the left on every row. You are welcome to request help from the store where you bought the y arn for any individual assistance reading diagrams. Happy crocheting!

Mona Olsson 29.07.2018 - 12:12:

Hej, Jag undrar var man lägger in de ökade maskorna (som ej syns i diagram A1)? Ska man virka fler omgångar av A1b mellan A1c och A1d eller ska de ökas på axeln? Jag virkar stl S/M och har gjort ökningarna vid pil 2 men är osäker på hur jag kommer vidare. Mvh Mona

Doreen 27.07.2018 - 23:29:

I have made the starting chain and 24 groups of 5-double crochets plus the starting two double crochets and the chain three. I am confused about why there is this group of two double crochets and a chain three. Also, on the next round, I can see how to make A.1c and A.1b go over the starting groups of 5-double crochet; however, I do not understand how to do the first row of A.1d in the two spots where it is required. I don't see double crochet by itself in the starting row.

DROPS Design 31.07.2018 kl. 08:32:

Dear Doreen, A.1b is worked over 6 dc, A.1C over 6 dc, then you work A.1d over 1 dc (= 1 sc, 2 ch, 1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc, 2 ch, 1 sc in the same dc). Happy crocheting!

Silvia Hirsch 24.06.2018 - 11:50:

In der ersten Reihe sind 5 Stäbchen angegeben. Im Diagramm sind jeweils 6er Blöcke angegeben. D.h. Ich häkle eine zweite Reihe mit Stäbchen. Richtig? Danke!

DROPS Design 25.06.2018 kl. 08:32:

Liebe Frau Hirsch, bei der 1. Reihe werden regelmäßig Lm übersprungen, damit diese Reihe nicht zu eng wird. Wenn Sie dann A.1 häkeln, wie gezeigt und erklärt häkeln: A.1b und A.1C werden über 6 Stb gehäkelt und A.1d wird über 1 Stb gehäkelt - siehe Stern-Symbol unter Diagramtext. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Tanja Bruines 14.06.2018 - 03:32:

Kunnen de haakpatronen in zijn geheel weergegeven worden? ik kan er nu geen wijs uit

DROPS Design 15.06.2018 kl. 15:39:

Dag Tanja, Vanwege de beperkte ruimte op de pagina is het helaas niet mogelijk om de telpatronen in zijn geheel weer te geven. Je kunt altijd vragen stellen hier op het forum of in de winkel waar je het garen hebt gekocht, als je ergens niet uitkomt.

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