DROPS / 186 / 2

Primrose Dress by DROPS Design

Dress with lace pattern and round yoke, worked top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is crocheted in DROPS Cotton Merino.

DROPS design: Pattern cm-083
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
650-750-800-900-1000-1050 g colour 13, raspberry

Piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 18 treble crochets x 9 rows = 10 cm in width and 10 cm vertically.
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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour 3.40 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 44.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Diagrams A.1 and A.5 show how diagram begins and ends. On 7th, 11th and 13th round, A.5 and A.1 do not replace first stitch in A.4 and A.2, i.e. the rounds start with 3 chain stitches (does not replace first treble crochet) and finishes with 1 slip stitch in first stitch in A.2 and A.4. On the remaining rounds, first stitch in A.2 and A.4 is replaced with A.1 and A.5

CROCHET INFO:
At beginning of every round with treble crochet replace first treble crochet with 3 chain stitches. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round.
On every round with double crochets replace first double crochet with 1 chain stitch. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch at beginning of round.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on round (e.g. 94 treble crochets) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 18) = 5.2. I.e. in this example work 2 treble crochets in approx. 5th treble crochet.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to side of body):
Work until 2 treble crochets remain before marker thread, work 2 treble crochets in next treble crochet, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 2 treble crochets (marker thread is in the middle of these treble crochets), work 2 treble crochets in next treble crochet. Increase like this at both marker threads (= 4 treble crochets increased in total).

WORK 2 TREBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER:
* Make 1 yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, get yarn, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through the 2 first loops on hook *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook (= 1 treble crochet decreased).

DECREASE TIP (applies to body):
Decrease 1 treble crochet on each side of every marker thread as follows: Work until 3 treble crochets remain before marker thread, WORK 2 TREBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER - see explanation above, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 2 treble crochets (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), work the next 2 treble crochets together. Decrease like this at both marker threads (= 4 treble crochets decreased in total).

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To calculate how to evenly decrease, take the total number of stitches on round (for example 60 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases that should be made (for example 6) = 10. In this example work every 9th and 10th stitch together.
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DRESS:
Work in the round top down. Round begins approx. mid back (this varies in the different sizes due to number of pattern repetitions on back piece).

YOKE:
Work 108-108-117-117-124-124 chain stitches on hook size 4 mm with Cotton Merino and form 1 ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch. Work first round as follows: Work 3 chain stitches (= 1 treble crochet) - read CROCHET INFO, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 3-3-5-5-5-5 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 6 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* = 94-94-102-102-108-108 treble crochets. Work 1 round with 1 treble crochet in every treble crochet and increase 18-18-22-22-28-40 treble crochets evenly - read INCREASE TIP-1 = 112-112-124-124-136-148 treble crochets.
Work next round and insert 4 marker threads in the piece as follows: A.1 shows how round begins and ends - read PATTERN. Work A.2 (= 6 treble crochets) over the first 18-18-24-24-24-30 treble crochets (= 3-3-4-4-4-5 times in width) (= approx. half back piece), A.3 (= 4 treble crochets), insert 1st marker thread, A.2 over the next 12 treble crochets (= 2 times in width), insert 2nd marker thread, A.3 over the next 4 treble crochets (= sleeve), A.2 over the next 36-36-42-42-48-54 treble crochets (= 6-6-7-7-8-9 times in width) (= front piece), A.3 over the next 4 treble crochets, insert 3rd marker thread, A.2 over the next 12 treble crochets (= 2 times in width), insert 4th marker thread, A.3 over the next 4 treble crochets (= sleeve) and finish with A.2 over the last 18-18-18-18-24-24 treble crochets (= 3-3-3-3-4-4 times in width). REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! Continue pattern like this and increase as shown in diagram A.3.
AT THE SAME TIME increase evenly on sleeve (i.e. between 1st and 2nd marker thread and between 3rd and 4th marker thread) as follows:
ROUND 8: Increase 0-6-6-6-6-6 treble crochets on each sleeve (= 0-12-12-12-12-12 treble crochets increased in total).
ROUND 10: Increase 0-0-0-0-6-6 treble crochets on each sleeve (= 0-0-0-0-12-12 treble crochets increased in total).
ROUND 14: Increase 0-0-0-0-0-6 treble crochets on each sleeve (= 0-0-0-0-0-12 treble crochets increased in total).
When A.1 to A.3 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 240-252-264-264-288-312 treble crochets on last round. Piece measures approx. 15 cm.
Work the first 0-0-2-2-4-4 rounds of A.2a over all stitches. Piece measures approx. 15-15-17-17-19-19 cm.
Now work treble crochets over body and pattern over sleeves as follows:
Work 1 treble crochet in each of the first 33-33-39-39-39-45 treble crochets and increase 0-2-2-2-2-2 treble crochets evenly (= approx. half back piece), work A.4 (= 6 treble crochets) over the next 54-60-60-60-66-72 treble crochets (= 9-10-10-10-11-12 times in width) (= sleeve), work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 66-66-72-72-78-84 treble crochets and increase 0-4-4-4-4-4 treble crochets evenly (= front piece), A.4 over the next 54-60-60-60-66-72 treble crochets (= 9-10-10-10-11-12 times in width) (= sleeve) and finish with 1 treble crochet in each of the last 33-33-33-33-39-39 treble crochets and increase 0-2-2-2-2-2 treble crochets evenly (= approx. half back piece) (= 0-8-8-8-8-8 treble crochets increased in total). Increase like this every round 0-2-2-3-4-5 times in total = 240-268-280-288-320-352 stitches.
On round 7, 10 and 12 in diagram A.4a work transition between treble crochets and pattern as follows: Work treble crochets until 1 treble crochet remains before pattern, work 2 chain stitches and 1 double crochet in last treble crochet, work pattern as before, work 1 double crochet in first treble crochet after pattern and 2 chain stitches.
Continue like this until piece measures 18-19-21-23-25-27 cm. Now divide sleeves and body as follows:
Work 1 treble crochet in each of the first 33-37-43-45-47-55 treble crochets (= approx. half back piece), work 6-6-12-12-12-12 chain stitches, skip the next 54-60-60-60-66-72 stitches (= A.4) for sleeve, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 66-74-80-84-94-104 treble crochets (= front piece), work 6-6-12-12-12-12 chain stitches, skip the next 54-60-60-60-66-72 stitches (= A.4) for sleeve and finish with 1 treble crochet in each of the last 33-37-37-39-47-49 treble crochets (= approx. half back piece). Finish sleeves and body separately.

BODY:
= 144-160-172-192-212-232 treble crochets/chain stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches under each sleeve. Continue with 1 treble crochet in every stitch. When piece measures 4 cm from where body was divided for sleeves, decrease 1 treble crochet on each side of every marker thread (= 4 treble crochets decreased) - read DECREASE TIP! Decrease like this every 0-3½-6-3½-3½-0 cm 1-3-2-3-3-1 time in total = 140-148-164-180-200-228 treble crochets. Continue with 1 treble crochet in every treble crochet.
When piece measures 37-39-41-43-45-47 cm from neck edge, increase 1 treble crochet on each side of every marker thread (= 4 treble crochets increased) – read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 1½ cm 16-17-16-15-19-18 times in total = 204-216-228-240-276-300 treble crochets. When piece measures 47-48-48-48-48-48 cm from where piece was divided from sleeves, work A.4a over all stitches (= 34-36-38-40-46-50 times in width). Diagram A.5 shows how every round begins and ends. When A.4a has been worked 1 time vertically, piece measures approx. 59-60-60-60-60-60 cm from where piece was divided from sleeves. Fasten off. Piece measures approx. 77-79-81-83-85-87 cm from neck edge.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round, top down. Work 1 double crochet in the 1st chain stitch of the 6-6-12-12-12-12 chain stitches worked in armhole on body, work A.4a over chain stitches (= 1-1-1-2-2-2 times in width), adjust pattern according to rest of sleeve, then work pattern as before over the 54-60-60-60-66-72 stitches (i.e. work A.4a, A.5 shows how every round begins and ends) = 60-66-72-72-78-84 stitches.
Diagram A.4a is now worked 10-11-12-12-13-14 times in width. Continue pattern like this. When piece measures 4 cm from where sleeves were divided from body, adjust so that next round is 1 round with treble crochets, decrease 6 treble crochets evenly – READ DECREASE TIP-1. Work A.4a 1 time less in width. Decrease like this every 8-6-6-5-5-3 cm 2-3-3-3-3-4 times in total = 48-48-54-54-60-60 treble crochets. A.4a is now worked 8-8-9-9-10-10 times in width. Continue pattern like this until piece measures 22-22-20-18-17-15 cm from where sleeve was divided from body, adjust so that next round is a round with treble crochets. On next round increase 24-24-30-30-36-36 treble crochets evenly = 72-72-84-84-96-96 treble crochets. A.4a is now worked 12-12-14-14-16-16 times in width. Continue like this until sleeve measures 34-34-32-30-29-27 cm from where it was divided from body, adjust to finish nicely according to pattern. Fasten off. Sleeve measures approx. 52-53-53-53-54-54 cm from neck edge.

NECK EDGE:
Crochet an edge around the neck. Begin mid back. Work * 1 double crochet in first/next treble crochet, 3 chain stitches, skip approx. 1 cm *, repeat from *-* around the entire neck. Make sure to avoid a tight neck edge, adjust to finish with 1 slip stitch in first double crochet. Fasten off.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 18.01.2019
Correction - YOKE: ROUND 10: Increase 0-0-0-0-6-6 treble crochets on each sleeve (= 0-0-0-0-12-12 treble crochets increased in total)... Work 1 treble crochet in each of the first 33-37-43-45-47-55 treble crochets (= approx. half back piece), work 6-6-12-12-12-12 chain stitches...

Diagram

= chain stitch
= double crochet in stitch
= double crochet between 2 treble crochets
= double crochet around chain space
= treble crochet in stitch
= treble crochet around chain stitch/chain space
= this round has already been worked, it only shows how next round should be worked in/around stitches
= slip stitch



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 186-2) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (52)

Sara 07.01.2020 - 22:14:

Und noch eine Frage: Runden 7,11, 13 der Diagramme A2 und A4 beginnen mit 3 Luftmaschen und enden mit einer Kettmasche in die erste Masche von A2 und A4. Stimmt das? Enden diese Runden nicht auch mit einer Kettmasche in die 3. Luftmasche des Rundenbeginns? Wenn nicht, überspringt man dann also am Rundenende und beendet die Runde nach/hinter den 3 Luftmaschen des Rundenbeginns? Danke und Grüße, Sara

DROPS Design 08.01.2020 kl. 09:08:

Liebe Sara, ja genau, diese Runden werden auch mit 1 Kettmasche in die 3. Luftmasche des Rundenbegins beendet. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Sara 07.01.2020 - 21:38:

Liebes Drops-Team, was ist die erste Runde bei den Diagrammen A2 und A4? Zählt man die unterste Runde (= Stäbchen) als erste Runde mit oder ist die erste Runde die Runde danach mit der festen Masche und den drei Luftmaschen? Danke! Sara

DROPS Design 08.01.2020 kl. 09:01:

Liebe Sara, die 1. Runde in A.2 und A.3 ist die Reihe, die man ganz am Anfang in der Luftkettemaschen häkelt. Die 1. Runde in A.4 ist die vorrige Runde, die Sie früher gehäkelt haben. Diese Reihe (= mit dem Sternchen) zeigen nur die Maschen von der vorrigen Runde, so weiß man wo die Maschen der 1. Runde gehäkelt werden. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Annelieke Wanders 05.01.2020 - 17:50:

Hallo, ik ben onderaan het lijf en moet nu nog A.4a 1 x haken. Is het de bedoeling dat het meerderen iedere 1,5 cm doorgaat tijdens dit patroon? En zo ja, hoe doe ik dat dan?

DROPS Design 18.01.2020 kl. 12:51:

Dag Annelieke,

Nee, je hoeft dan niet meer te meerderen. Het is de bedoeling dat je, voordat je met A.4a begint, het juiste aantal steken voor jouw maat hebt, namelijk 204-216-228-240-276-300 stokjes, zodat je uitkomt met het aantal herhalingen van A.4a die je dan haakt.

Annelieke 13.10.2019 - 00:07:

Ik ben heb net het lijf en de mouwen gescheiden en ben nu bezig met het lijf in de rondte te haken met stokjes. Ik sluit de toeren iedere keer met een halve vaste maar de naad loopt scheef. Hoe krijg ik de naad netjes recht?

DROPS Design 15.10.2019 kl. 19:08:

Dag Annelieke,

Door het karakter van de steken hebben ze de neiging om scheef te gaan staan als je in de rondte breit in één richting. Wat je kan doen om dit te voorkomen is dat je heen en weer breit. Je sluit de toer dus wel steeds met een halve vaste maar dan keer je en brei je terug. Zo ga je steeds heen en weer.

Lizanne 13.09.2019 - 16:00:

Hallo, Als ik meerder volgens A3, heb ik dan alles gemeerderd dat nodig is of moet ik dan nog extra die meerderingen van toer 8, 10 en 14 doen? B.v.d Lizanne

DROPS Design 13.09.2019 kl. 20:13:

Dag Lizanne,

Ja, je moet inderdaad ook nog op toer 8, 10 en 14 meerderen in A.3 (dat zijn de toeren met stokjes in het telpatroon)

HELENA 31.08.2019 - 23:51:

Bonjour, je me permet de demander si il y aurait quelqu'un qui pourrait m'aider en français pour réaliser cette magnifique robe, je me permet aussi de faire un appel à une femme formidable qui m'aidait beaucoup sur le forum qui se prénommait Nathalie si elle est d'accord ça me ferait plaisir de la retrouver. Merci d'avance

DROPS Design 02.09.2019 kl. 10:21:

Bonjour Héléna, le forum est désormais fermé, vous pouvez volontiers poser votre question ici, ou bien vous adresser - par mail ou téléphone - à votre magasin pour toute assistance individuelle. Bon crochet!

HELENA 08.08.2019 - 18:27:

Bonjour, j'aimerais savoir pourquoi on ne sait plus se rendre sur le forum Drops,on me dit que l'administrateur aurait bloqué la parution de drops sur Google avec le robot txt. je vous demande ce que je peux faire et si vous pouvez m'aider à résoudre ce probleme. Merci d'avance.

DROPS Design 09.08.2019 kl. 08:14:

Bonjour Héléna, le forum a été fermé pour des raisons de sécurité. Vous pouvez volontiers poser votre question ici, ou bien contacter votre magasin - même par mail ou téléphone - pour toute assistance individuelle. Bon crochet!

HELENA 08.07.2019 - 17:19:

Bonjour comme je l'ai indiqué plus bas, je travaille pour la taille M. MERCI

DROPS Design 09.07.2019 kl. 08:23:

Bonjour Héléna, en taille M, au 8ème tour vous devez avoir 18 b (= A.2), 24 b (A.3), 18 b (A.2), 24 b (A.3), 36 b (A.2), 24 b (A.3), 18 b (A.2), 24 b (A.3) et 18 b (A.2) soit: 18+24+18+24+36+24+18+24+18= 204 b (y compris les augmentations des manches. N'hésitez pas à mettre des marqueurs entre chaque diagramme pour bien vous repérer et bien vérifier le nombre de mailles à chaque rang. Bon crochet!

HELENA 08.07.2019 - 05:25:

Bonjour est-ce normal si j'ai déjà plus que 252 brides avant le tour 8, cela fait 5 fois que je défait et c'est toujours de trop, pouvez-vous détaillez s'il vous plaît pour comprendre l'erreur. Merci d'avance

DROPS Design 08.07.2019 kl. 10:42:

Bonjour Héléna, pouvez-vous indiquer la taille que vous crochetez? ce sera bien plus simple pour regarder ensemble ce que vous devez faire. Merci!

HELENA 29.06.2019 - 19:06:

Bonjour, je suis comme Mireille je n'ai pas encore finit de crocheter A.1 à A.3 et j'ai déjà 245 brides de trop, et pourtant j'ai suivi en détail mais à mon avis, je dois avoir fait des erreurs s'en m'en rendre compte. pouvez-vous me dire ce que vous considérez comme tour 8. 10 . 14 car j'ai du mal même si je pense que ce sont les tours du diagramme, que dois-je faire maintenant après avoir défait, merci de votre aide.

DROPS Design 01.07.2019 kl. 08:28:

Bonjour Héléna, le 1er rang des diagrammes est celui juste après le tour avec l'étoile, comptez ensuite rang après rang, le 8ème rang de A.2 est par ex. celui où l'on a 2 x (3 brides autour de la ml) (également le 3ème rang de A.2a), les augmentations aux tours 8, 10 et 14 ne se font que dans la grande taille et on a donc 312 brides au dernier tour des diagrammes dans cette taille; Bon crochet!

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