DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 84.80$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Christmas Calendar

Jalisco

Knitted rainbow blanket with seed stitch, stripes and fringe. The piece is worked in 2 strands DROPS Snow.

DROPS 189-1

#jaliscoblanket

DROPS Design: Pattern no ee-627
Yarn group E + E or F
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Measurements: approx. 130 cm / 51½" x 100 cm / 39½" (without fringe)
Materials:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
200 g color 01, off white
200 g color 30, pastel pink
150 g color 54, medium purple
150 g color 05, petrol
150 g color 12, light blue
150 g color 24, yellow
150 g color 37, aquamarine
150 g color 26, hot pink
150 g color 35, lime
150 g color 31, pastel blue

If you work the blanket in just one color, you will need approx. 1150 g Snow.

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group E)" – see link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32") SIZE 20 MM/US 36 – or the size needed to get 6 stitches and 10 rows seed stitch with 2 strands on 10 cm / 4" in width and 10 cm / 4" in height.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 84.80$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

SEED STITCH:
ROW 1: * knit 1, purl 1 *, repeat from *-*.
ROW 2: knit over purl and purl over knit.
Repeat ROW 2 onwards.

STRAND CHANGE:
Every time you change colors after a stripe, leave 25 cm / 9¾" of yarn end, which will then be used to make the fringe. It is therefore important to leave a long end at both the beginning and end of each stripe.
If you change balls in the middle of a stripe, you can splice the ends together to avoid having to fasten the ends. Divide the outermost 10 cm / 4" at the end of the new and old strand, dampen and twist them together between your hands (= lightly felted strands).

STRIPE PATTERN:
Work 2 rows seed stitch on each stripe. The stripes are in the following colors:
STRIPE 1: 2 strands light blue
STRIPE 2: 1 strand light blue + 1 strand pastel blue
STRIPE 3: 2 strands pastel blue
STRIPE 4: 1 strand pastel blue + 1 strand off white
STRIPE 5: 2 strands off white
STRIPE 6: 1 strand off white + 1 strand pastel pink
STRIPE 7: 2 strands pastel pink
STRIPE 8: 1 strand pastel pink + 1 strand yellow
STRIPE 9: 2 strands yellow
STRIPE 10: 1 strand yellow + 1 strand pastel pink
STRIPE 11: 2 strands pastel pink
STRIPE 12: 1 strand pastel pink + 1 strand hot pink
STRIPE 13: 2 strands hot pink
STRIPE 14: 1 strand hot pink + 1 strand medium purple
STRIPE 15: 2 strands medium purple
STRIPE 16: 1 strand medium purple + 1 strand petrol
STRIPE 17: 2 strands petrol
STRIPE 18: 1 strand petrol + 1 strand aquamarine
STRIPE 19: 2 strands aquamarine
STRIPE 20: 1 strand aquamarine + 1 strand off white
STRIPE 21: 2 strands off white
STRIPE 22: 1 strand off white + 1 strand lime
STRIPE 23: 2 strands lime
STRIPE 24: 1 strand lime + 1 strand off white
STRIPE 25: 2 strands off white
STRIPE 26: 1 strand off white + 1 strand pastel blue
STRIPE 27: 2 strands pastel blue
STRIPE 28: 1 strand pastel blue+ 1 strand light blue
STRIPE 29: 2 strands light blue
STRIPE 30: 1 strand light blue + 1 strand hot pink
STRIPE 31: 2 strands hot pink
STRIPE 32: 1 strand hot pink + 1 strand yellow
STRIPE 33: 2 strands yellow
STRIPE 34: 1 strand yellow + 1 strand off white
STRIPE 35: 2 strands off white
STRIPE 36: 1 strand off white + 1 strand pastel pink
STRIPE 37: 2 strands pastel pink
STRIPE 38: 1 strand pastel pink + 1 strand lime
STRIPE 39: 2 strands lime
STRIPE 40: 1 strand lime + 1 strand medium purple
STRIPE 41: 2 strands medium purple
STRIPE 42: 1 strand medium purple + 1 strand aquamarine
STRIPE 43: 2 strands aquamarine
STRIPE 44: 1 strand aquamarine + 1 strand petrol
STRIPE 45: 2 strands petrol
STRIPE 46: 1 strand petrol + 1 strand hot pink
STRIPE 47: 2 strands hot pink
STRIPE 48: 1 strand hot pink + 1 strand pastel pink
STRIPE 49: 2 strands pastel pink

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BLANKET:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle, to give you room for all the stitches. Cast on 78 stitches with circular needle size 20 mm / US 36 and 2 strands light blue, leave a strand end of 25 cm / 9¾" (these will be used to make the fringe later). Then work SEED STITCH and STRIPES - see description above and read STRAND CHANGE. When stripe 49 has been completed, cut both strands (so there will be enough strands for the fringe). Change to 1 new strand pastel pink and 1 strand pastel blue and loosely bind off with knit from the right side. Cut the strands and fasten them at this end of the piece. You now have a total of 102 strands of 25 cm / 9¾" on the other side of the piece for the fringe.

FRINGE:
The strands in the side are plaited together. Start in the one end; tie the strands together 2 and 2 along the whole side with double knots. Then use 6 strands in each plait. Lay the strands in 3 groups of 2 strands and plait them loosely together. When the plait measures approx. 14 cm / 5½", tie a knot in the end. Plait all strands in this way (= 17 plaits) and then trim the ends so that they are all the same length.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.  

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!
Have you finished this pattern?
Tag your pictures with #dropspattern #jaliscoblanket or submit them to the #dropsfan gallery.

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Comments / Questions (26)

country flag Elena Iglesias Fernández wrote:

Buenas tardes. No entiendo lo de la aguja circular. ¿No puedo hacerlo con dos agujas? Muchas gracias.

07.05.2024 - 18:27

country flag Elena Iglesias Fernández wrote:

Buenas tardes. No entiendo lo de la aguja circular. ¿No puedo hacerlo con dos agujas? Muchas gracias.

07.05.2024 - 18:24

country flag Kirsten wrote:

Hallo, Ich lese es richtig und die Nadel Nr.20 bedeutet Nadelstärke 20mm?

26.10.2023 - 16:45

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Kirsten, richtig, diese Decke wird mit 2 Fäden DROPS Snow und Nadeln Nr 20 / 20 mm gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

27.10.2023 - 08:18

country flag Fausta Gina Cavaletto wrote:

Non ho capito quante maglie x fare una larghezza di cm. 100 e vorrei usare ferri diritti grazie

04.10.2023 - 19:31

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Fausta, se vuole modificare la larghezza, deve fare un campione e lavorare in base a quello. Buon lavoro!

05.10.2023 - 21:54

country flag SAINT JALM wrote:

S\'il vous plait, Quelle est la hauteur des rayures? Merci

05.03.2023 - 14:34

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Saint Jalm, chaque rayure consiste en 2 rangs point de riz, retrouvez les couleurs à utiliser sous RAYURES. Bon tricot!

06.03.2023 - 09:57

country flag Dorka wrote:

Hallo, ich bin mir anhand der Anleitung leider nicht sicher ob man in jeder Reihe BEIDE Fäden abschneiden muss oder nur den Faden den man wechselt.

17.09.2022 - 07:59

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Dorka, der Faden wird jeweils abgeschnitten und zwar, wird man vor jeder und nach jeder Streifen 25 cm für die Fransen stehen lassen - siehe FARBWECHSEL am Anfang der Anleitung. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

19.09.2022 - 09:16

country flag Anette wrote:

Jag undrar om om följande; Arbetet är stickat i 2 trådar DROPS Eskimo, är det att man använder 2 st garnnystan samtidigt? Om man stickar den i enfärgad ska jag beställa 23 st garnnystan? 1150 gr/50 gr= 23 nystan.

04.11.2020 - 13:17

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Annette, ja det stemmer, husk at overholde strikkefastheden så du ikke strikker for stramt :)

04.11.2020 - 14:36

country flag Tula Strand wrote:

Kan mønsteret strikkes med en tråd polaris? Hvor mange nøster/gram vil det gå med polaris? Samme pinne som med to tråder eskimo?

09.10.2020 - 02:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Tula. Ja du kan sticka denna med 1 tråd DROPS Polaris. Se bara till att få den stickfasthet som uppges i oppskriften. Du får räkna ut hur många meter garn du behöver för att göra den, du kan läsa mer om detta här. Lycka till!

09.10.2020 - 06:27

country flag Linda Allen wrote:

How can I purchase the yarn and design for this blanket? Any UK shops sell it?

21.06.2020 - 10:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Linda, pattern for this blanket is free and you can choose from several languages (see menu under the main photo) - you can print this pattern directly from our site. For yarn you can find a DROPS store here . Happy knitting!

21.06.2020 - 13:17

country flag Floriana wrote:

Buona giornata, con quale numero di ferri posso sostituire il ferro circolare? Grazie

22.04.2020 - 12:27

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Floriana. Può provare con ferri dritti della stessa misura di quelli suggeriti nel modello. Scelga comunque la misura che le consente di ottenere lo stesso campione indicato. Buon lavoro!

22.04.2020 - 15:15