DROPS / 189 / 1

Jalisco by DROPS Design

Knitted rainbow blanket with moss stitch, stripes and fringe. The piece is worked in 2 strands DROPS Snow.

  • Jalisco / DROPS 189-1 - Knitted rainbow blanket with moss stitch, stripes and fringe. The piece is worked in 2 strands DROPS Snow.
  • Jalisco / DROPS 189-1 - Knitted rainbow blanket with moss stitch, stripes and fringe. The piece is worked in 2 strands DROPS Snow.
  • Jalisco / DROPS 189-1 - Knitted rainbow blanket with moss stitch, stripes and fringe. The piece is worked in 2 strands DROPS Snow.
  • Jalisco / DROPS 189-1 - Knitted rainbow blanket with moss stitch, stripes and fringe. The piece is worked in 2 strands DROPS Snow.
DROPS Design: Pattern no ee-627
Yarn group E + E or F
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Measurements: approx. 130 cm x 100 cm (without fringe)
Materials:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
200 g colour 01, off white
200 g colour 30, pastel pink
150 g colour 54, medium purple
150 g colour 05, petrol
150 g colour 12, light blue
150 g colour 24, yellow
150 g colour 37, aquamarine
150 g colour 26, hot pink
150 g colour 35, lime
150 g colour 31, pastel blue

If you work the blanket in just one colour, you will need approx. 1150 g Snow.

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group E)" – see link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 20 MM – or the size needed to get 6 stitches and 10 rows moss stitch with 2 strands on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Wool
from 1.90 £ /50g
DROPS Snow uni colour DROPS Snow uni colour 1.90 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Snow mix DROPS Snow mix 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Snow print DROPS Snow print 2.40 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 60.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

MOSS STITCH:
ROW 1: * knit 1, purl 1 *, repeat from *-*.
ROW 2: knit over purl and purl over knit.
Repeat ROW 2 onwards.

STRAND CHANGE:
Every time you change colours after a stripe, leave 25 cm of yarn end, which will then be used to make the fringe. It is therefore important to leave a long end at both the beginning and end of each stripe.
If you change balls in the middle of a stripe, you can splice the ends together to avoid having to fasten the ends. Divide the outermost 10 cm at the end of the new and old strand, dampen and twist them together between your hands (= lightly felted strands).

STRIPE PATTERN:
Work 2 rows moss stitch on each stripe. The stripes are in the following colours:
STRIPE 1: 2 strands light blue
STRIPE 2: 1 strand light blue + 1 pastel blue
STRIPE 3: 2 strands pastel blue
STRIPE 4: 1 strand pastel blue + 1 strand off white
STRIPE 5: 2 strands off white
STRIPE 6: 1 strand off white + 1 strand pastel pink
STRIPE 7: 2 strands pastel pink
STRIPE 8: 1 strand pastel pink + 1 strand yellow
STRIPE 9: 2 strands yellow
STRIPE 10: 1 strand yellow + 1 strand pastel pink
STRIPE 11: 2 strands pastel pink
STRIPE 12: 1 strand pastel pink + 1 strand hot pink
STRIPE 13: 2 strands hot pink
STRIPE 14: 1 strand hot pink + 1 strand medium purple
STRIPE 15: 2 strands medium purple
STRIPE 16: 1 strand medium purple + 1 strand petrol
STRIPE 17: 2 strands petrol
STRIPE 18: 1 strand petrol + 1 strand aquamarine
STRIPE 19: 2 strands aquamarine
STRIPE 20: 1 strand aquamarine + 1 strand off white
STRIPE 21: 2 strands off white
STRIPE 22: 1 strand off white + 1 strand lime
STRIPE 23: 2 strands lime
STRIPE 24: 1 strand lime + 1 strand off white
STRIPE 25: 2 strands off white
STRIPE 26: 1 strand off white + 1 strand pastel blue
STRIPE 27: 2 strands pastel blue
STRIPE 28: 1 strand pastel blue + 1 strand light blue
STRIPE 29: 2 strands light blue
STRIPE 30: 1 strand light blue + 1 strand hot pink
STRIPE 31: 2 strands hot pink
STRIPE 32: 1 strand hot pink + 1 strand yellow
STRIPE 33: 2 strands yellow
STRIPE 34: 1 strand yellow + 1 strand off white
STRIPE 35: 2 strands off white
STRIPE 36: 1 strand off white + 1 strand pastel pink
STRIPE 37: 2 strands pastel pink
STRIPE 38: 1 strand pastel pink + 1 strand lime
STRIPE 39: 2 strands lime
STRIPE 40: 1 strand lime + 1 strand medium purple
STRIPE 41: 2 strands medium purple
STRIPE 42: 1 strand medium purple + 1 strand aquamarine
STRIPE 43: 2 strands aquamarine
STRIPE 44: 1 strand aquamarine + 1 strand petrol
STRIPE 45: 2 strands petrol
STRIPE 46: 1 strand petrol + 1 strand hot pink
STRIPE 47: 2 strands hot pink
STRIPE 48: 1 strand hot pink + 1 strand pastel pink
STRIPE 49: 2 strands pastel pink

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BLANKET:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle, to give you room for all the stitches. Cast on 78 stitches with circular needle size 20 mm and 2 strands light blue, leave a strand end of 25 cm (these will be used to make the fringe later). Then work MOSS STITCH and STRIPES - see description above and read STRAND CHANGE. When stripe 49 has been completed, cut both strands (so there will be enough strands for the fringe). Change to 1 new strand pastel pink and 1 strand pastel blue and loosely cast off with knit from the right side. Cut the strands and fasten them at this end of the piece. You now have a total of 102 strands of 25 cm on the other side of the piece for the fringe.

FRINGE:
The strands in the side are plaited together. Start in the one end; tie the strands together 2 and 2 along the whole side with double knots. Then use 6 strands in each plait. Lay the strands in 3 groups of 2 strands and plait them loosely together. When the plait measures approx. 14 cm, tie a knot in the end. Plait all strands in this way (= 17 plaits) and then trim the ends so that they are all the same length.
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Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 189-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (20)

country flag Anette 04.11.2020 - 13:17:

Jag undrar om om följande; Arbetet är stickat i 2 trådar DROPS Eskimo, är det att man använder 2 st garnnystan samtidigt? Om man stickar den i enfärgad ska jag beställa 23 st garnnystan? 1150 gr/50 gr= 23 nystan.

user icon DROPS Design 04.11.2020 kl. 14:36:

Hej Annette, ja det stemmer, husk at overholde strikkefastheden så du ikke strikker for stramt :)

country flag Tula Strand 09.10.2020 - 02:09:

Kan mønsteret strikkes med en tråd polaris? Hvor mange nøster/gram vil det gå med polaris? Samme pinne som med to tråder eskimo?

user icon DROPS Design 09.10.2020 kl. 06:27:

Hej Tula. Ja du kan sticka denna med 1 tråd DROPS Polaris. Se bara till att få den stickfasthet som uppges i oppskriften. Du får räkna ut hur många meter garn du behöver för att göra den, du kan läsa mer om detta här. Lycka till!

country flag Linda Allen 21.06.2020 - 10:27:

How can I purchase the yarn and design for this blanket? Any UK shops sell it?

user icon DROPS Design 21.06.2020 kl. 13:17:

Dear Linda, pattern for this blanket is free and you can choose from several languages (see menu under the main photo) - you can print this pattern directly from our site. For yarn you can find a DROPS store here . Happy knitting!

country flag Floriana 22.04.2020 - 12:27:

Buona giornata, con quale numero di ferri posso sostituire il ferro circolare? Grazie

user icon DROPS Design 22.04.2020 kl. 15:15:

Buongiorno Floriana. Può provare con ferri dritti della stessa misura di quelli suggeriti nel modello. Scelga comunque la misura che le consente di ottenere lo stesso campione indicato. Buon lavoro!

country flag Melanie Horstink-Knights 17.04.2020 - 19:04:

I have just finished this blanket and it was such a joy to make. The end result is stunning and so so warm. It is beautifully soft. I am so happy with it that I have asked my daughter to choose her favourite colours and I'm making her one.

country flag Pia Ahlefeldt 13.04.2020 - 15:35:

78 m virker som meget få til et tæppe i denne størrelse, er det viste tæppe lavet på 78 m. Det ser stort ud til så få masker.

user icon DROPS Design 17.04.2020 kl. 14:54:

Hei Pia. Ja, det er 78 masker. Teppet strikkes på pinne størrelse 20, så man trenger ikke mange masker for at det skal bli stort. God Fornøyelse!

country flag Gabriella Lombardini 09.09.2019 - 16:44:

Dove posso acquistare il kit completo per realizzare il modello jalisko

user icon DROPS Design 09.09.2019 kl. 16:51:

Buongiorno Gabriella, a questa pagina può trovare i rivenditori DROPS presso cui acquistare il filato nei colori necessari per realizzare il modello che desidera. Buon lavoro!

country flag Stefanie 16.07.2019 - 12:17:

Hallo! Naar aanleiding van Marit haar vraag over het pluizen van Eskimo wol zou ik de deken graag in een ander wol willen breien. Het enige alternatief dat gegeven wordt is echter Polaris en dat pluist even fel, niet? Hebben jullie nog andere alternatieven? Ik dacht eventueel aan Andes, want dat pluist toch iets minder (dacht ik) en is ook lekker dik. Ik vrees dan wel wat voor de stekenverhouding.

user icon DROPS Design 22.07.2019 kl. 11:17:

Dag Stefanie,

DROPS Eskimo valt in garencategorie E, je kan dus ook 4 draden van categorie A of 2 draden van categorie C nemen, bijvoorbeeld 2 draden Nepal of 2 draden BigMerino. Dit heeft wel een andere 'look and feel' als Eskimo.

country flag Sylvie 10.06.2019 - 20:44:

J\'aime l\'association des couleurs mais pas les franges d'un seul côté.

country flag Marit Van Der Meer 08.06.2019 - 14:39:

Ik heb deze deken 2x gebreid voor mijn dochters maar hij geeft zoveel pluizen af dat ze hem nauwelijks kunnen gebruiken. Hebben jullie een tip hoe dat te verhelpen is?

user icon DROPS Design 09.06.2019 kl. 20:54:

Dag Marit,

DROPS Eskimo lijkt een beetje op lontwol (wolgaren dat niet gedraaid is) en is heel geschikt voor vilten en warme kleding, maar het nadeel is dat het nogal kan pluizen. Wat wel eens wil helpen is het werkstuk in een plastic zak te stoppen en dan 24 uur in de vriezer te leggen. Zie ook bij vaak gestelde vragen (nr 21)

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