DROPS Extra / 0-1411

The Santa Bunch by DROPS Design

Crocheted Santas for Christmas. The piece is worked in DROPS Baby Merino.

DROPS Design: Pattern no bm-044
Yarn group A
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MALE SANTA:
Measurements: Height: approx. 15 cm / 6''
Materials:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50 g color 16, red
50 g color 02, off white
50 g color 23, light beige
+ left-over color 20, dark gray

The piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 MM / C – or the size needed to get 24 double crochets and 19.5 textured rows (1 textured row = 1 row double crochets + 1 row single crochets) on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

ACCESSORIES: Stuffing if you wish to fill your Santa.
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FEMALE SANTA:
Measurements: Height: approx. 15 cm / 6''
Materials:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50 g color 16, red
50 g color 02, off white
50 g color 23, light beige
+ a left-over color 20, dark gray

The piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 MM / C – or the size needed to get 24 double crochets and 19.5 textured rows (1 textured row = 1 row double crochets + 1 row single crochets) on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

ACCESSORIES: Stuffing if you wish to fill your Santa.
.
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SANTA CHILDREN:
Measurements: Height: approx. 13 cm / 5''
Materials:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50 g color 16, red
50 g color 02, off white
50 g color 23, light beige
+ a left-over color 20, dark gray

The piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 MM / C – or the size needed to get 24 double crochets and 19.5 textured rows (1 textured row = 1 row double crochets + 1 row single crochets) on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

ACCESSORIES: Stuffing if you wish to fill your Santas.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 4.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 37.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

CROCHET INFO:
The first single crochet on round is replaced by 1 chain stitch. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch.
The first double crochet on round is replaced by 3 chain stitches. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch.

COLOR CHANGE:
To get a neat transition when changing colour, work the last stitch as follows: Insert hook into FIRST chain stitch from beginning of round, pick up new strand, make a yarn over with new strand and pull it through stitch on hook.

7 TREBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER:
Work 6 treble crochets in first stitch, but wait with last yarn over and pull through on each of these treble crochets, work 1 more treble crochet in same stitch and pull the last yarn over through all 8 loops on hook.
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MALE SANTA:
The piece is worked top down. Then you work hair, beard, tassel and eyes. You can stuff the Santa if you wish. You then need to work a bottom as described below. Fill the Santa with stuffing and crochet the bottom.

BODY:
Work 4 chain stitches with hook size 3 mm / C and red and form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch.

ROUND 1: Work 8 single crochets around the ring – read CROCHET INFO.
ROUND 2: * 1 double crochet in first single crochet, 2 double crochets in next single crochet *, work from *-* to end of round = 12 double crochets.
ROUND 3: * 1 single crochet in each of the 2 first/next double crochets, 2 single crochets in next double crochet *, work from *-* to end of round = 16 single crochets.
ROUND 4: * 1 double crochet in each of the 3 first/next single crochets, 2 double crochets in next single crochet *, work from *-* to end of round = 20 double crochets.
ROUND 5: Work 1 single crochet in each double crochet = 20 single crochets.
ROUND 6: * 1 double crochet in each of the 4 first/next single crochets, 2 double crochets in next single crochet *, work from *-* to end of round = 24 double crochets.
ROUND 7: Work 1 single crochet in each double crochet = 24 single crochets.
ROUND 8: * 1 double crochet in each of the first 5 single crochets, 2 double crochets in next single crochet *, work from *-* to end of round = 28 double crochets.
ROUND 9: Work 1 single crochet in each double crochet = 28 single crochets.
ROUND 10: * 1 double crochet in each of the 6 first single crochets, 2 double crochets in next single crochet *, work from *-* to end of round = 32 double crochets.
ROUND 11: Work 1 single crochet in each double crochet = 32 single crochets.
ROUND 12: * Work 4 chain stitches, skip 3 single crochets, work 1 slip stitch in back loop of next single crochet * work from *-* to end of round = 8 chain-spaces. Read COLOR CHANGE and change to light beige before next round.
ROUND 13: Work slip stitches to first space, work 5 double crochets around each space = 40 double crochets.
ROUND 14: Work 1 single crochet in each double crochet = 40 single crochets.
ROUND 15: * 1 double crochet in each of the 9 first/next single crochets, 2 double crochets in next single crochet *, work from *-* to end of round = 44 double crochets.
ROUND 16: Work 1 single crochet in each double crochet = 44 single crochets.
ROUND 17: * Work 4 chain stitches, skip 3 single crochets, work 1 slip stitch in back loop of next single crochet * work from *-* to end of round = 11 chain-spaces. Change to red before next round.
ROUND 18: Work slip stitches to first space, * work 4 double crochets around first space, 4 double crochets around next space, 5 double crochets around next space *, work from *-* a total of 3 times, work 4 double crochets around next space and 5 double crochets around next space = 48 double crochets.
ROUND 19: Work 1 single crochet in each double crochet = 48 single crochets.
ROUND 20: * 1 double crochet in each of the 11 first/next single crochets, 2 double crochets in next single crochet *, work from *-* to end of round = 52 double crochets.
ROUND 21: Work 1 single crochet in each double crochet = 52 single crochets.
ROUND 22: * 1 double crochet in each of the 12 first/next single crochets, 2 double crochets in next single crochet *, work from *-* to end of round = 56 double crochets.
ROUND 23: Work 1 single crochet in each double crochet = 56 single crochets.
ROUND 24: * 1 double crochet in each of the 13 first/next single crochets, 2 double crochets in next single crochet *, work from *-* to end of round = 60 double crochets. Cut and fasten strand.

TASSEL:
Work 5 chain stitches (including 4 chain stitches to turn). Work 7 TREBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER – see description above, in the first chain stitch worked. Cut the strand. Pull both strand-ends through the opening at top of Santa and fasten them on wrong side of piece.

HAIR:
The hair is worked in last round of single crochets before the red spaces (i.e. in the 11th round). Work with off white and hook size 3 mm / C as follows:
Work 1 slip stitch in first single crochet, * skip 1 single crochet, work 3 double crochets, 3 chain stitches, 3 double crochets in next single crochet, skip 1 single crochet, work 1 slip stitch in next single crochet *, work from *-* to end of round and finish with 1 slip stitch in first slip stitch on round. Cut and fasten strand.

BEARD:
The beard is worked in the same way as the hair. Work with off white, but work in round with single crochets before the spaces with light beige (i.e. in 16th round).

EYE:
Work 3 chain stitches (including 2 chain stitches to turn) with hook size 3 mm / C and a left-over of dark gray. Work 5 half double crochets in the first chain stitch worked.
Change to off white. Turn piece and work 1 slip stitch in each of the 5 half double crochets, then work 1 slip stitch in 2nd chain stitch at beginning of previous row.
Cut the strands and work another eye in the same way. Fasten the eyes to front of Santa with small invisible stitches. Place one eye over one double crochet group on beard, there should be 1 double crochet group between the 2 eyes.

BOTTOM:
Work 4 chain stitches with hook size 3 mm / C and red and form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch.
ROUND 1: Work 12 single crochets around ring – read CROCHET INFO.
ROUND 2: Work 2 double crochets in each single crochet = 24 double crochets.
ROUND 3: * 1 single crochet in first/next double crochet, 2 single crochets in next double crochet *, work from *-* to end of round = 36 single crochets.
ROUND 4: * 1 double crochet in each of the 2 first/next single crochets, 2 double crochets in next single crochet*, work from *-* to end of round = 48 double crochets.
ROUND 5: * 1 single crochet in each of the 3 first/next double crochets, 2 single crochets in next double crochet *, work from *-* to end of round = 60 single crochets.
Cut and fasten strand.

ASSEMBLY:
Fill the Santa with stuffing. Lay the bottom on the Santa and crochet together with red and 1 single crochet through a stitch from both layers. Cut and fasten strand.
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FEMALE SANTA:
Work in the same way as male Santa, but finish female Santa after the 21st round = 52 single crochets.
On 16th round work a lace edge in the same way as the beard on male Santa, but worked in red. Then work a lace edge at the bottom with red as follows: 1 slip stitch in first stitch, * skip 1 single crochet, 3 double crochets + 3 chain stitches + 3 double crochets in next single crochet, skip 1 single crochet, 1 slip stitch in next single crochet *, work from *-* to end of round and finish with 1 slip stitch in slip stitch at beginning of round. Cut and fasten strands.
Work tassel, hair and eyes in same way as male Santa.

BOTTOM:
Work rounds 1-4. in the same way as for male Santa, then work as follows:
ROUND 5: * 1 single crochet in each of the 11 first/next double crochets, 2 single crochets in next double crochet *, work from *-* to end of round = 52 single crochets.
Cut and fasten strand.

ASSEMBLY:
Fill the Santa with stuffing. Lay the bottom towards the santas 21th round (= 52 single crochets) and crochet together with red and 1 single crochet through a stitch from both layers. Cut and fasten strand.

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SANTA CHILDREN:
Work in the same way as the male Santa, but finish the children after the 20th round = 52 double crochets.
Work tassel, hair and eyes in the same way as for the male Santa. Work a lace edge in red in the 16th round in the same way as for the female Santa. Cut and fasten the strands.

BOTTOM:
Work in the same way as for the female Santa.

ASSEMBLY:
Fill the Santas with stuffing. Lay the bottom on the Santa and crochet together with red and 1 single crochet through a stitch from both layers. Cut and fasten strand.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-1411) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (3)

Melanie 29.09.2019 - 09:08:

Liebes Drops Team, wie viel Wolle benötigt man wenn man alle 3 Wichtel zusammen häkeln möchte?

DROPS Design 30.09.2019 kl. 15:45:

Liebe Melanie, vielleicht brauchen Sie dann 2 Knäuel rot, und 1 in je den beiden anderen Farben. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Nathalie 10.12.2018 - 07:19:

Bonjour Je suis Débutante au crochet et je bloque au niveau des cheveux pour le père Noël : Une fois que j'ai fait ma mc dans la 1ere maille est-ce que je dois faire 4ml avant de sauter la 2ème maille et piquer dans la 3ème J'ai du mal à comprendre comment passer de la mc à la 3ème maille pour faire les doubles brides Merci

DROPS Design 10.12.2018 kl. 10:16:

Bonjour Nathalie, pour les cheveux, joignez le fil naturel dans le dernier tour de mailles serrées avant les arceaux avec 1 maille coulée dans la 1ère maille serrée, et répétez ensuite de *-* comme indiqué. La maille coulée va permettre d'attacher le fil au personnage. Bon crochet!

Monika Opočenská 19.12.2017 - 19:56:

Dobrý den, moc děkuji za skvělé překlady a přeju paní Hano krásné svátky a šťastný nový rok. Ještě mám dotaz k ceně příze uvedené u návodu. Není to nějak moc za 3 Santy? :-) Monika Opčenská

DROPS Design 21.12.2017 kl. 00:21:

Dobrý den, Moniko, díky za milý komentář i přání. K ceně příze u návodu: program je nastaven tak, aby počítal každé uvedené klubíčko - u každé ze 3 figurek jsou vždy 3 klubíčka + zbytek, tedy 3 x 3 = 9 klubek po 88 Kč... a z toho vyjde ta závratná suma, která v praxi tak velká samozřejmě není (protože celková spotřeba na Santí rodinku bude menší než 9 klubek). Každopádně ale díky za připomínku - předám dál, je to zbytečně matoucí. Krásně propletené svátky! Hana

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