DROPS / 182 / 16

Winter Comfy by DROPS Design

Felted slippers with garter stitch and stockinette stitch, worked from the toe backwards. The piece is worked in DROPS Lima.

DROPS Design: Pattern no li-089
Yarn group B
US: 5/6½ - 7½/8½ - 9/10
EU: 35/37 - 38/39 – 41/42
Foot length: approx. 22 - 24 - 27 cm / 8¾''-9½''-10½''
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
100-100-150 g color 5820, ruby red

The piece can also be worked with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group B)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM / US 6 – or the size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height before felting.
After felting: 23 stitches 32 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.90 $ /50g
DROPS Lima uni colour DROPS Lima uni colour 3.90 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Lima mix DROPS Lima mix 4.10 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid a hole.

The piece is worked in the round, from the toe backwards, then worked back and forth over heel. The piece is sewn together mid back and mid front of toe afterwards.

Cast on 28 stitches with double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and Lima. Knit 1 round and insert 1 marker in the first and 15th stitch (= the sides). Continue with stockinette stitch AT THE SAME TIME on the next round increase 1 stitch on each side of both markers (= 4 stitches increased on round) - read INCREASE TIP! Repeat the increase in each side every 2nd round 3-4-4 more times, then increase 1 stitch before each marker (= 2 stitches increased on round) 0-0-1 time = 44-48-50 stitches. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Continue with stockinette stitch until the piece measures 13-14-15½ cm / 5"-5½"-6 1/4''.
Now work 2 RIDGES in the round - see description above, AT THE SAME TIME as you insert a marker mid top of foot after the first 11-12-13 stitches. Cut the strand.
Start after the marker and work GARTER STITCH back and forth - see description above. Bind off when piece measures approx. 26-28½-31½ cm / 10 1/4"-11 1/4"-12 3/8'' (leave a strand end of approx. 20 cm / 8'', this is used for assembly).

Fold the bind-off edge double and sew together mid back - sew in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch so the seam is not thick.
Sew together the hole at front of toe with grafting stitches - sew the 14 stitches on top of foot to the 14 stitches under the foot.

Work another slipper in the same way.

Put the slippers in the washing machine with a detergent without enzymes or optic bleaches. Wash at hot 40C/104F degrees with normal centrifuge but without pre-wash. Afterwards, put the slippers on and shape them to the right measurements while they are still wet. Later wash as normal wool garment.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 182-16) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (9)

Robbin Vokes 02.01.2021 - 20:41:

It certainly is unclear what to do with the 12/13 instep stitches. Going from rounds to rows? Does that require a circular needle? I suggest correcting the pattern instead of leaving us scratching our heads.

Monica Blasiusson 18.11.2019 - 15:08:

Jag har tovat provrutor jag stickat och det det blev knappt 40% kvar.

DROPS Design 19.11.2019 kl. 13:28:

Hej Monica, smart att testa din maskin först! Om den tovar för mycket får du testa med lägre temperatur, men det går att dra ganska mycket i bløta tovade tofflor :)

Monica Blasiusson 17.11.2019 - 19:14:

Är det meningen att dessa totalt 44 maskor ska räcka runt en fot? Jag har exakt stickfasthet. Måste vara något som fattas.

DROPS Design 18.11.2019 kl. 14:54:

Hei Monica. Ja, det er 44 masker i den minste str. Det er fra tåen og mot risten (strikkes rundt), åpningen til foten strikkes frem og tilbake og vil være påca 30 cm. God Fornøyelse!

Ana 07.10.2019 - 10:47:

Hi, what about the first 12 stitches? You say to start knitting after the marker. Whay do I do with the first 12?

DROPS Design 07.10.2019 kl. 11:00:

Dear Ana, you now work all the stitches as before but now in rows (and not in the round anymore) starting at the marker, ie rounds started mid under foot, rows are now starting mid upper foot: join the yarn with the stitch after the marker and work all stitches in rows. Happy knitting!

Ana 05.10.2019 - 10:37:

I place the marker after the first 12 stitches and cut the strand. After the marker, I knit in garter stitch, what do I do with the first 12 stitches, knit in garter or stocking stitch, or not knit the first 12 stitches?

DROPS Design 07.10.2019 kl. 08:51:

Dear Ana, you work now in garter stitch, in rows, starting from the stitch after the marker, over all stitches, until the finished measurement. Happy knitting!

Carol Conklin 07.04.2019 - 18:54:

Sew together the hole at front of toe with grafting stitches - sew the 14 stitches on top of foot to the 14 stitches under the foot. What do I do with these stitches when starting garter back and forth? When it says cut the yarn do I start with a new piece at stitch 14? It seems to be making up a little small to felt. I have paid attention to the gauge. Thanks.

DROPS Design 08.04.2019 kl. 10:09:

Dear Mrs Conklin, the toe = the 28 sts cast on at the beginning of the slippers, you have cast off 28 sts and worked in the round for toe part of slipper. Then you insert a marker after the first 13 sts of the round and start working back and forth in the 14th st of the round = first stitch of row from now on. Happy knitting!

Anna 02.12.2018 - 13:31:

Jag krånglade till det mer än nödvändigt. Nu förstår jag monteringen 😀.

DROPS Design 05.12.2018 kl. 09:21:

Hei Anna. Så bra at du fikk det til. Tips til neste gang: om du velger å stille "spørsmål" istedet for en "kommentar" ser vi spørsmålet ditt raskere. God fornøyelse

Anna 02.12.2018 - 13:10:

Hej, jag förstår inte monteringsanvisningen. Kan ni beskriva lite närmare för jag får inte ihop min till en toffla som på bilden.

Freja 04.09.2018 - 16:02:

Skal tåen stikkes i glatstrik, som der står i opskriften, eller skal hele tøflen strikkes i retstrik inden inden den filtes?

DROPS Design 05.09.2018 kl. 15:54:

Hej Freja, ja vi har strikket tåen i glatstrik, du kan se det på billedet. Men vælger du at strikke hele tøflen i retstrik så gør du bare det. God fornøjelse!

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