DROPS / 182 / 20

Stay Warm by DROPS Design

The set consists of: Knitted hat, neck warmer and wrist warmers with lace pattern. Sizes S/M – M/L. The piece is worked in DROPS Lima.

DROPS Design: Pattern no li-081
Yarn group B
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For the whole set there will be enough with approx. 350 g DROPS Lima.
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HAT:
Size: One size
Fits head size: approx. 54/56 cm.
Materials:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
100 g colour 6235, grey blue

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group B)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 4 MM – or the size needed to get 20 stitches and 28 rows lace pattern (A.3) on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height. 1 repeat of A.3 measures approx. 7 cm in width.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 3.5 MM for rib – or the size needed to get 22 stitches and 30 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
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NECK WARMER:
Sizes: S/M – M/L
Circumference: approx. 71-78 cm. Height: approx. 34-34 cm.
Materials:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200 g for both sizes in colour 6235, grey blue

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group B)" – see link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) SIZE 4 MM– or the size needed to get 20 stitches and 28 rows lace pattern (A.5) on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height. 1 repeat of A.5B measures approx. 7 cm in width.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) SIZE 3.5 MM for garter stitches edges – or the size needed to get 22 stitches and 30 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
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WRIST WARMERS:
Sizes: S/M – M/L
Circumference: approx. 18-20 cm. Length: approx. 24-26 cm.
Materials:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
100 g for both sizes in colour 6235, grey blue

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group B)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 23 stitches and 32 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height. 1 repeat of A.7 measures approx. 7 cm in width.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM for rib – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 34 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 1.55 £ /50g
DROPS Lima uni colour DROPS Lima uni colour 1.55 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Lima mix DROPS Lima mix 1.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.85£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

PATTERN:
Hat: See diagrams A.1 to A.4.
Neck warmer: See diagram A.5.
Wrist warmers: See diagrams A.6 to A.8.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced - for neck and wrist warmers):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (= (e.g.) 165 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 10) = 16.5. In this example, knit together alternately every 15th and 16th stitch and 16th and 17th stitch.

INCREASE TIP (for wrist warmers - thumb gusset):
Work to the stitch with marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 1, make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. The next time you increase work as follows: Knit until there is 1 stitch left before stitch with marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 3, make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). NOTE: You are always increasing on the outside of the increased stitches.
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HAT:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, change to double pointed needles when necessary.
Cast on 112 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and Lima. Knit 1 round. Then work A.1 in the round (= 7 repeats of 16 stitches). When the rib measures 5 cm work A.2 (= 7 repeats of 16 stitches which are reduced to 14 masker) = 98 stitches. After A.2 change to circular needle size 4 mm. Work A.3 in the round (= 7 repeats of 14 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! NOTE: at the beginning of round 3, 5 and 7 purl together the last stitch of the previous round with the first 2 stitches on this round (= first symbol of A.3). Continue the round according to diagram. When A.3 has been worked 2 times in height, work A.4 in the round in the same way. When A.4 has been completed there are 14 stitches left. Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well. The hat measures approx. 24 cm from the top down.

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NECK WARMER:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle.
Cast on 151-165 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and Lima. Work 3 RIDGES – see description above. Knit 1 round where you decrease 10-10 stitches evenly on round – read DECREASE TIP = 141-155 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4mm and work the next round as follows: Work A.5A (= 9 stitches), work A.5B until there are 6 stitches left on the round (= 9-10 repeats of 14 stitches), work A.5C (= 6 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Continue the pattern in this way until the piece measures approx. 32 cm – finish after a complete repeat in height. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm. Knit 1 round where you increase 10-10 stitches evenly on round = 151-165 stitches. Work 3 ridges and cast off with knit. To avoid a tight casting-off edge you can cast off with a larger needle size. The neck warmer measures approx. 34 cm from the top down.
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LEFT WRIST WARMER:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles.
Cast on 52-56 stitches with double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and Lima. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= purl 3 / knit 1). When the rib measures 3-4 cm work the next round as follows: Knit the first 4 stitches and decrease at the same time 2-1 stitches evenly over these 4 stitches, work first round in A.6 (= 19 stitches which are decreased to 17 stitches), knit the remaining 29-33 stitches and decrease at the same time 6-7 stitches evenly over these stitches – read DECREASE TIP = 42-46 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Work the next round as follows: 2-3 stitches stocking stitch, work the last round of A.6 over the next 17 stitches and work 23-26 stitches stocking stitch.
Then work as follows: 2-3 stitches stocking stitch, A.7 (= 17 stitches), 23-26 stitches stocking stitch. Continue the pattern in this way. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! AT THE SAME TIME When the piece measures 10-11 cm insert 1 marker thread in the first stitch on the round. On the next round increase 1 stitch on each side of this first stitch – read INCREASE TIP (= 2 stitches increased). Increase in this way every 6th round a total of 4 times (remember you are always increasing on the outside of the increased stitches to make a thumb gusset) = 50-54 stitches on needle. Continue the pattern and AT THE SAME TIME place the 9 thumb gusset stitches on a thread. In addition, cast on 3 new stitches on the needle at the back of the thumb = 44-48 stitches on the needle.
Continue A.7 in the round until the piece measures approx. 19-21 cm – finish after a whole repeat in height (there are now 5 cm left to finished length – you can try the wrist warmer on and work to desired length). Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work the next round as follows: knit the first 2-3 stitches and increase at the same time 2-1 stitches evenly over these stitches, work A.8 (= 17 stitches which are increased to 19 stitches) and knit the next 23-26 stitches and increase at the same time 6-7 stitches evenly over these stitches = 52-56 stitches on needle. Now work rib in the round (= purl 3 / knit 1) for 5 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a needle size larger. The whole wrist warmer measures approx. 24-26 cm.

THUMB:
Place the 9 stitches from the thread back on double pointed needles size 3 mm and knit up 7 new stitches at the back of the thumb = 16 stitches. Work 3 rounds stocking stitch (make sure the thumb is not worked too tightly). Then work rib in the round (= purl 3 /knit 1) for 3-3½ cm (or to desired length). Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.


RIGHT WRIST WARMER:
Cast on 52-56 stitches with double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and Lima. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (start the rib with knit 1/ purl 3). When the rib measures 3-4 cm work the next round as follows: Knit the first 29-33 stitches and decrease at the same time 6-7 stitches evenly over these stitches, work A.6 (= 19 stitches which are decreased to 17 stitches), knit the last 4 stitches and decrease at the same time 2-1 stitches evenly over these 4 stitches = 42-46 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Work the next round as follows: 23-26 stitches stocking stitch, work the last row of A.6 over the next 17 stitches and work 2-3 stitches stocking stitch. Then work as follows: 23-26 stitches stocking stitch, A.7 (= 17 stitches), 2-3 stitches stocking stitch. Continue the pattern in this way. AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 10-11 cm insert 1 marker thread in the last stitch on the round. On the next round increase 1 stitch on each side of this last stitch – remember INCREASE TIP (= 2 stitches increased). Increase in this way every 6th round a total of 4 times (remember, you are always increasing on the outside of the increased stitches to make a thumb gusset) = 50-54 stitches on needle. Continue the pattern and AT THE SAME TIME place the 9 thumb gusset stitches on a thread, in addition cast on 3 new stitches on the needle behind the thumb = 44-48 stitches on the round. Continue A.7 in the round until the piece measures approx. 19-21 cm – adjust to the left wrist warmer.
Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work the next round as follows: Knit the first 23-26 stitches and increase at the same time 6-7 stitches evenly over these stitches, work A.8 (= 17 stitches which increase to 19 stitches), knit the last 2-3 stitches and increase at the same time 2-1 stitches evenly over these stitches = 52-56 stitches on needle. Now work rib in the round (= knit 1 / purl 3) for 5 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. To avoid the casting off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger needle size. The whole wrist warmer measures approx. 24-26 cm.

THUMB:
Work the thumb in the same way as for the left thumb.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 20.11.2018
Correction - HAT: ... After A.2 change to circular needle size 4 mm. Work A.3 in the round (= 7 repeats of 14 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! NOTE: at the beginning of round 3, 5 and 7 purl together the last stitch of the previous round with the first 2 stitches on this round (= first symbol of A.3). Continue the round according to diagram. When A.3 has been worked 2 times in height, work A.4 in the round in the same way.

Diagram

= knit
= purl
= between 2 stitches make 2 yarn overs, on the next round slip the one yarn over off the needle and knit the other
= purl 2 together
= purl 3 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
= purl 1 in both front and back of same stitch (= 1 stitch increased)



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 182-20) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (22)

Danielle 07.12.2019 - 18:40:

Bonjour. Je ne comprends pas les explications pour les côtes de la mitaine gauche : (=1maille envers 3/1 maille endroit). Quelqu'un peut-il m'aider ?

DROPS Design 09.12.2019 kl. 08:48:

Bonjour Danielle, oups faute de frappe corrigée, on tricote en côtes 3 mailles envers/1 maille endroit, merci pour votre retour. Bon tricot!

Ros-Marie 05.11.2019 - 19:31:

Ska börja med A4 i mössan, ska jag sticka likadant med första 3 maskorna, som i A3?

DROPS Design 11.11.2019 kl. 09:51:

Hei Ros-Marie. Ja, det skal strikkes på sammen måte (När A.3 har stickats 2 ggr på höjden stickas A.4 runt på samma sätt). God Fornøyelse!

CHRISTINE 02.10.2019 - 11:57:

Merci pour votre réponse ce qui me gène ce sont les 3 m ensembles au début des rangs. Ça ne tombe toujours pas juste pour moi. J'ai vraiment beaucoup de mal à comprendre vos explications. Bonne journée

DROPS Design 02.10.2019 kl. 13:48:

Bonjour Christine, dès le 1er tour en fait (échantillon à l'appui), vous gardez la dernière maille du tour sur l'aiguille gauche (la dernière m de A.2), puis tricotez le 1er A.3 ainsi: tricotez la dernière m de A.2 et les 2 mailles suivantes ensemble à l'envers (= 3 m ens à l'env), continuez A.3 = vous avez tricoté 14 m, répétez A.3 tout le tour. À la fin du 2ème tour, gardez la dernière maille sur l'aiguille gauche et tricotez la ensemble à l'envers avec les 2 premières m de A.3, terminez A.3 = 14 m, tricotez la dernière m du 1er A.3 avec les 2 premières m du A.3 suivant et ainsi de suite pour ces tours 1, 3, 5 et 7. Bon tricot!

CHRISTINE 01.10.2019 - 21:47:

Vous donnez cette explication mais je je comprends pas le nombre de maille n'est pas bon je n'ai plus 98 mailles ci-dessous l'explication que vous donnez merci DROPS Design 15.11.2018 kl. 14:40: Bonjour Mary, pour tricoter les 3 m ens à l'env au début du tour, vous allez tricoter la dernière m du tour + les 2 premières m du tour suivant pour que ces diminutions soient alignées les unes au-dessus des autres. Bon tricot!

DROPS Design 02.10.2019 kl. 08:22:

Bonjour Christine, quand vous tricotez A.3, le nombre de mailles doit rester le même pendant les 2 motifs en hauteur jusqu'au début de A.4 (les diminutions se font dans A.4 uniquement). Vous devez donc toujours avoir 14 mailles dans chaque A.3 et ce tout le tour pendant les 2 motifs en hauteur. Tous les 2 rangs, on diminue 2 m par motif et on fait 2 double-jetés (= 1 jeté) = le nombre de mailles doit rester le même. Aux tours 3, 5 et 7, tricotez comme dans la réponse indiquée pour que les A.3 s'alignent. Bon tricot!

Christine 20.09.2019 - 23:41:

Les côtes du bonnet 1/1 ou 2/2 et 5 cm je crois merci cdlt

DROPS Design 23.09.2019 kl. 08:12:

Bonjour Christine, les côtes du bonnet se tricotent en suivant le diagramme A.1 = on va ainsi tricoter en côtes 3 m envers, 1 m endroit pendant 5 cm. Bon tricot!

CaroleJ 27.04.2019 - 00:18:

J’ai un problème avec tout le diagramme...seulement des carrés vides, je ne vois pas les symboles.

DROPS Design 29.04.2019 kl. 11:50:

Bonjour Carole, avez-vous ré-essayé? car nous pouvons bien voir les diagrammes ainsi que les différents symboles et la légende. Bon tricot!

HeikeK. 05.02.2019 - 13:00:

Guten Tag, Ich habe eine Frage zum Daumenkeil. "..... in jeder 6. Runde insgesamt 4 x zunehmen...." Verstehe ich das richtig, das insgesamt 8 Maschen zugenommen werden? (Maschenzahl am Anfang Daumenkeil = 42, am Ende = 50) Wieso nur in jeder 6. Runde?

DROPS Design 05.02.2019 kl. 13:28:

Liebe HeikeK., ja genau, es wird insgesamt 8 Maschen zugenommen (=2 M insgesamt 6 x). Es gaben 42 M + 8 Zunahmen = 50 M. Die Zunahmen erfolgen in jeder 6. Runde damit Sie schön regelmäßig sind. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Rita Di Cuzzo 06.01.2019 - 15:11:

Non riesco a realizzare il modello del cappello stay warm perché non riesco a capire i diagrammi A2 a3 per quanti giri vanno eseguiti ci terrei a poterlo realizzare. Sono disponibile anche ad acquistareacquistare le spiegazioni del modello grazie se mi risponderete

Rita.dicuzzo 06.01.2019 - 15:05:

Gentilmente vorrei spiegazioni relative alla realizzazione del modello del cappello :non riesco a capire i diagrammi A2A3per quanti giri si devono eseguire e se non è possibile avere queste risposte è possibile acquistare le spiegazioni del modello.Vi Prego di rispondermi perché ci tengo tanto a realizzare il cappello grazie

DROPS Design 06.01.2019 kl. 15:55:

Buongiorno Rita. Deve lavorare tutto il diagramma A.2 (2 giri) una volta in verticale, e tutto il diagramma A3 due volte in verticale (in tutto 16x2=32 giri per A3). Buon lavoro!

Martine Simard 25.11.2018 - 13:59:

Bonjour, il semble avoir un problème pour les dernières rangées de A4. Glisser 1 maille pardessus l'autre à l'avant dernière rangée fait en sorte qu'il reste 3 mailles par motif et non 2.

DROPS Design 27.11.2018 kl. 14:35:

Bonjour Mme Simard, merci pour votre retour, A.4 va être corrigé, il doit bien rester 2 mailles au dernier rang (on diminue 2 m à l'avant-dernier rang de A.4). Bon tricot!

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