DROPS design: Pattern u-812
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
600-650-750-800-900-950 g color 55, light beige brown
150-150-150-200-200-200 g color no 01, off white
50-50-50-50-100-100 g color 77, light oak
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 52, dark mustard

Piece can also be crochet with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4.5 mm/US 7 - or size needed to get 18 double crochets x 9 rows = 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Wool
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 3.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 54.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. When A.4 has been worked 1 time vertically, repeat A.4a until finished measurements.

CROCHET INFO:
Piece is worked both in the round and back and forth. Work alternately from right side and wrong side, and finish every row with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of row.
Beginning every row with double crochets with 3 chain stitches (= first double crochet) and finish with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of row, turn piece.
On every round with single crochets replace first single crochet with 1 chain stitch. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in 1st chain stitch at beginning of round.

COLOR PATTERN:
When changing color at the beginning of a new row work as follows: Work last double crochet with first color but wait with last pull through. Switch to new color, work last pull through and 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of row. turn piece and work 3 chain stitches (= beginning of new row).
When changing color in a row work as follows: Work 1 double crochet with first color but wait with last pull through. Switch to new color, work last pull through with new color.
When working with two colors place strand for the color not worked over stitches from previous row, work around the strand so that it is hidden and follows in the round. Make sure to avoid tights yarn and not to tighten yarn when picking it up from previous row.

INCREASE TIP-1 (applies to yoke):
Work 2 double crochets in same color in 1 double crochet on previous row.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to body):
Work until 3 double crochets remain before marker thread, work 2 double crochets in next double crochet, 1 double crochet in each of the next 4 double crochets (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches) and 2 double crochets in next double crochet (= 2 double crochets increased). Repeat at next marker thread (= 4 double crochets increased in total on row).

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Work until 4 double crochets remain before marker thread, work 1 double crochet but wait with last yarn over and pull through (= 2 loops on hook), then work next double crochet, but on last pull through pull through all 3 loops on hook (= 1 double crochet decreased), work 1 double crochet in each of the next 4 double crochets (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), work the next 2 double crochets together the same way (= 1 double crochet decreased = 2 double crochets decreased on row).
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JUMPER:
Worked top down, in the round and back and forth. Work together at the end of every row. Worked from mid back.

YOKE:
Work 106-110-115-120-124-129 chain stitches on hook size 4.5 mm/US 7 with light beige brown with and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch. Work 3 chain stitches (= 1 double crochet) - READ CROCHET INFO, 1 double crochet in each of the next 0-4-2-0-4-2 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 6 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* = 92-96-100-104-108-112 double crochets.
Work A.1 and A.2 as follows:
Work pattern, increase in pattern (see increase in diagram) and increase evenly - READ INCREASE TIP-1.
ROW 1 (= right side):
Work A.1 (= 2 double crochets) over the first 14-14-16-17-18-18 double crochets and increase 2-2-2-3-4-4 double crochets evenly (= half back piece).
Work A.2 (= 4 double crochets), A.1 over the next 10 double crochets and increase 2-4-4-4-4-6 double crochets evenly, A.2 over the next 4 double crochets (= right sleeve).
Work A.1 over the next 28-30-32-34-36-38 double crochets and increase 4-4-4-6-8-8 double crochets evenly (= half back piece).
Work A.2 over the next 4 double crochets, A.1 over the next 10 double crochets and increase 2-4-4-4-4-6 double crochets evenly, A.2 over the next 4 double crochets (= left sleeve).
Work A.1 over the last 14-16-16-17-18-20 double crochets and increase 2-2-2-3-4-4 double crochets evenly (= half back piece) = 112-120-124-132-140-148 double crochets (including increase in A.2) – READ COLOR PATTERN!

ROW 2 (= wrong side):
Work A.1 over the first 16-18-18-20-22-24 double crochets, A.2, repeat A.1 over the next 12-14-14-14-14-16 double crochets, A.2, repeat A.1 over the next 32-34-36-40-44-46 double crochets, A.2, repeat A.1 over the next 12-14-14-14-14-16 double crochets, A.2, repeat A.1 over the last 16-16-18-20-22-22 double crochets = 120-128-132-140-148-156 double crochets (including increase in A.2). REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!

ROW 3 (= right side):
Work pattern = 8 double crochets increased in A.2 = 128-136-140-148-156-164 double crochets.

ROW 4 (= wrong side):
Work A.1 over the first 16-18-18-20-22-24 double crochets and increase 2-0-0-3-4-4 double crochets evenly, A.2, work A.1 over the next 12-14-14-14-14-16 double crochets and increase 0-4-4-4-4-6 double crochets evenly, A.2, work A.1 over the next 32-34-36-40-44-46 double crochets and increase 4-2-4-6-8-8 double crochets evenly, A.2, work A.1 over the next 12-14-14-14-14-16 double crochets and increase 0-4-4-4-4-6 double crochets evenly, A.2, work A.1 over the last 16-16-18-20-22-22 double crochets and increase 2-2-2-3-4-4 double crochets evenly = 144-156-162-176-188-200 double crochets (including increase in A.2).

ROW 5 (= right side):
Work A.1 over the first 18-18-20-23-26-26 double crochets, A.2, work A.1 over the next 12-18-18-18-18-22 double crochets, A.2, work A.1 over the next 36-36-40-46-52-54 double crochets, A.2, work A.1 over the next 12-18-18-18-18-22 double crochets, A.2, work A.1 over the last 18-18-18-23-26-28 double crochets = 152-164-170-184-196-208 double crochets (including increase in A.2).

Piece now measures approx. 7 cm / 2¾''. Now work A.2 as before and A.3 is worked over A.1 as follows:

ROW 6 (= wrong side):
Work A.3 over the first 18-18-18-23-26-28 double crochets and increase 3-3-3-4-4-2 double crochets evenly, A.2, work A.3 over the next 12-18-18-18-18-22 double crochets and increase 0-0-3-3-3-5 double crochets evenly, A.2, work A.3 over the next 36-36-40-46-52-54 double crochets and increase 3-6-5-5-8-9 double crochets evenly, A.2, work A.3 over the next 12-18-18-18-18-22 double crochets and increase 0-0-3-3-3-5 double crochets evenly, A.2, work A.3 over the last 18-18-20-23-26-26 double crochets and increase 0-3-4-4-4-4 double crochets evenly = 162-180-192-207-222-237 double crochets (including increase in A.2).

ROW 7 (= right side):
Work A.3 over the first 18-21-24-27-30-30 double crochets, A.2, work A.3 over the next 12-18-21-21-21-27 double crochets, A.2, work A.3 over the next 39-42-45-51-60-63 double crochets, A.2, work A.3 over the next 12-18-21-21-21-27 double crochets, A.2, work A.3 over the last 21-21-21-27-30-30 double crochets = 166-184-196-211-226-241 double crochets (including increase in A.2).

ROW 8 (= wrong side):
Work pattern as before.

ROW 9 (= right side):
Work pattern as before and increase 2-0-4-5-6-7 double crochets evenly on row = 168-184-200-216-232-248 double crochets.
Piece measures approx. 11 cm / 4½''.
Then work according to diagram A.4 (= 8 double crochets) – see increase in diagram, 21-23-25-27-29-31 times in total in width until piece measures 25-26-28-30-32-34 cm / 9 3/4"-10 1/4"-11"-11 3/4"-12½"-13½''. When all increases are done there are 252-276-300-324-348-372 double crochets on row.
Now work body and sleeves as follows: Work A.4 over the first 36-41-45-49-54-57 double crochets (= half back piece), 8-8-8-10-10-10 chain stitches, insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these stitches, skip the next 53-56-60-63-65-71 double crochets (= sleeve), work A.4 over the next 73-82-90-99-109-115 double crochets (= front piece), 8-8-8-10-10-10 chain stitches, insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these stitches, skip the next 53-56-60-63-65-71 double crochets (= sleeve), work A.4 over the last 37-41-45-50-55-58 double crochets (= half back piece). Cut the yarn.

BODY:
= 146-164-180-198-218-230 double crochets and 16-16-16-20-20-20 chain stitches (= 162-180-196-218-238-250 stitches in total). Now work piece with beginning from marker thread in the side. Insert 1 marker in the piece. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE! Leave marker in piece, move marker thread when working. Continue with A.4 The double crochets that do not fit pattern in each side are worked in light beige brown.
When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', increase 2 double crochets at each marker thread - READ INCREASE TIP-2! Increase like this every 5-9-9-9-9-9 cm / 2"-3½"-3½"-3½"-3½"-3½'' 4-3-3-3-3-3 times in total = 178-192-208-230-250-262 double crochets. When increasing, work the double crochets in pattern, double crochets that do not fit the pattern in the side is worked in light beige brown. Continue until piece measures 29-30-30-30-30-30 cm / 11½"-11 3/4"-11 3/4"-11 3/4"-11 3/4"-11 3/4'' from marker (= 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼'' from neck edge), finish after 4 rows with light beige brown. Fasten off.

SLEEVE:
= 53-56-60-63-65-71 double crochets. Continue with A.4 Begin by working in the 5th-5th-5th-6th-6th-6th chain stitch of the 8-8-8-10-10-10 chain stitches worked in armhole on body as follows: Work 1 slip stitch, 3 chain stitches (= 1 double crochet), work 1 double crochet in each of the next 3-3-3-4-4-4 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in every double crochet over sleeve, 1 double crochet in each of the last 4-4-4-5-5-5 chain stitches under sleeve = 61-64-68-73-75-81 double crochets. The double crochets that do not fit pattern under sleeve are worked in light beige brown. Insert 1 marker thread mid under sleeve. Insert 1 marker in the piece. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE! Leave marker in piece, move marker thread when working.
When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', decrease 2 double crochets on each side of marker thread - READ DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2½-2-2-1½-1½-1 cm / 7/8"-3/4"-3/4"-½"-½"-3/8'' 10-12-12-14-13-16 times in total = 41-40-44-45-49-49 double crochets. Continue until piece measures 36-36-34-33-31-30 cm / 14 1/4"-14 1/4"-13½"-13"-12 1/4"-11 3/4'' from marker (61-62-62-63-63-64 cm / 242-24½"-24½"-24 3/4"-24 3/4"-25 1/4'' from neck edge), finish after 4 rows with light beige brown. Fasten off. Work the other sleeve the same way.

NECK EDGE:
Worked in the round from mid back. Work chain stitch where 1st row with double crochets was worked (i.e. the chain stitches skipped are not worked = 92-96-100-104-108-112 stitches).
Work with light beige brown as follows:
ROUND 1: Work an elevation in the back of neck as follows: Fasten yarn with 1 slip stitch and work 3 chain stitches that replace first double crochet, work 1 double crochet in each of the first 18-19-20-21-22-23 stitches, 1 half double crochet in each of the next 10 stitches, 1 single crochet in each of the next 34-36-38-40-42-44 stitches, 1 half double crochet in each of the next 10 stitches, 1 double crochet in each of the last 19-20-21-22-23-24 stitches.
ROUND 2: Work 1 single crochet in every stitch and decrease 12 stitches evenly = 80-84-88-92-96-100 single crochets. Fasten off.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 01.09.2017
Diagram A.4 has been updated.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = off white
symbols = 2 double crochets in same double crochets with off white
symbols = light beige brown
symbols = 2 double crochets in same double crochets with light beige brown
symbols = dark mustard
symbols = 2 double crochets in same double crochets with dark mustard
symbols = light oak
symbols = 2 double crochets in same double crochets with light oak
symbols = no stitch
symbols = crochet direction
diagram
diagram
signature-image

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 180-15) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (82)

country flag Lene Petri wrote:

Hej med jer. Jeg er ny indenfor hækleverden. Er lige begyndt på Drop design sweater winter sunshine str. XL... er nået til række 3... er gået i stå.. jeg forstår ikke hvad jeg skal gøre. Hvis jeg følger A2 diagrammet, får jeg alt for MANGE masker. Der skal være 148 masker... hvad menes der med (hækle mønster = 8 stangmasker taget ud i A2??? ) Hvordan skal jeg hækle rækken, så maskeantallet passer? På forhånd tak Lene Petri

27.10.2021 - 06:55:

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lene, du har 104 masker og du kan se at udtagningerne er tegnet ind i diagram A.2, det vil sige at på første omgang tager 2 masker ud hver gang du hækler A.2 = 8m + 20m ifølge forklaringen i opskriften = 132 masker. På 2. og 3. omgang tager du kun ud ifølge A.2 = 8 + 8 masker = 148 masker. God fornøjelse!

28.10.2021 kl. 13:52:

country flag Kendall wrote:

Hi there! I am working on the M version of this sweater and running into trouble before I even get to the charts. I have chained 110 and ss together. However when I chain 3, dc in the next 4, and sk 1 dc 6 in the remaining stitches I end up with 95 dc rather than 96. What am I doing wrong here? I can’t seem to figure it out. Thank you in advance!

21.09.2021 - 23:43:

country flag Jackie Jarvis wrote:

How do I determine which size garment (sweater, in this case) to make? I can't find any measurements on the pattern's page, and sizes can vary widely by studio.

24.07.2021 - 03:23:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jackie, you can find all the relevant measurements of the finished piece on the schematic drawing at the bottom of the pattern. We suggest you measure a sweater that fits you and compare. Happy Stitching!

24.07.2021 kl. 09:35:

country flag Estelle wrote:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas bien le début du diagramme A4. Le carré noir indique pas de maille. Mais si je saute cette maille, j’ai 9 brides et le compte n’est pas bon... alors que si je fais 8 brides, je peux le répéter 21 fois pour la taille S comme indiqué. à quoi correspond ce carré noir, et que dois-je faire? Merci !

03.06.2021 - 17:47:

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Estelle, ce carré noir n'est pas une maille, autrement dit, A.4 se crochète sur 8 mailles jusqu'au rang 3 où vous augmentez en crochetant 2 brides dan sla même bride en chêne clair = 8ème symbole de la légende = vous avez désormais 9 brides dans A.4. Au tour suivant, vous augmentez de nouveau 1 bride (au début de A.4) = 10 brides. Bon crochet!

04.06.2021 kl. 07:00:

country flag Annemette Bovbjerg Thøgersen wrote:

Jeg har prøvet at lave til omgang 4 et par gange, men kan ikke helt få det til at passe. Såvidt jeg kan se på opskriften, skal man hækle A1 oveni A1 og A2 oveni A2 fra forrige række, og hver række starter og slutter skiftevis med 16 og 18 stangmasker (A1). Men når jeg vender går det galt. Jeg laver en kædemaske i 3. luftmaske, vender og derefter 3 nye luftmasker (=stangmaske), men har nu stadig f.eks. yderligere 18 masker hen til (A2), så derfor i alt 19 stangmasker (inkl luftmasker)

07.04.2021 - 22:21:

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Annemette. Litt usikker på hvor det går feil hos deg. Hvilken str hekler du? Husk at de 3 luftmaskene du starter med erstatter 1 stav. Har du fått med deg alle økningne i diagrammene, både i A.1 og A.2? Prøv å sett hjelpemarkører mellom hver diagram, da har man lettere oversikt og kan sjekke etter hver rad at man har det maskeantallet som står i oppskriften. mvh DROPS design

26.04.2021 kl. 10:10:

country flag Charly wrote:

Hallo ich hänge bei Reihe 9. Ich verstehe nicht,wann der Ärmel getrennt wird. Ich habe A4 gehäkelt bis i A4a beginnt in der Häkelschrift...ist das zuweist? Viele Grüße

05.03.2021 - 20:28:

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Charly, nach der 9. Reihe häkeln Sie A.4 bis die Arbeit 25-26-28-30-32-34 cm misst (= es sind 252-276-300-324-348-372 Stäbchen nach allen Zunahmen). Dann, wenn die Arbeit die richtige Höhe hat, häkeln Sie die Verteilungsrunde. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

08.03.2021 kl. 10:10:

country flag Carolina wrote:

Tengo problemas para seguir con la fila 9. Entiendo los 8 puntos del diagrama A4, pero no lo de un total de 21 veces en el ancho. Gracias!

01.02.2021 - 22:02:

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Carolina, 21 veces en el ancho significa que tienes que trabajar el diagrama A4 21 veces en la fila.

30.04.2021 kl. 22:29:

country flag Helle Bilbo wrote:

Jeg laver trøjen i XXXL og er startet på 4.række. Jeg kan ikke få mønsteret til at passe med alle udtagningerne. Skal jeg selv tilpasse mønster, så det passer?

07.01.2021 - 17:50:

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Helle. Husk, der det økes jevnt fordelt i A.1, les ØKETIPS-1 i oppskriften. God Fornøyelse!

18.01.2021 kl. 11:55:

country flag Andreas Spiliotopoulos wrote:

Hello. I am trying for the first time to crochet a sweater and I find it difficult on the beginning. I make XL. I chain 120 and form a ring. I do a ch3 ( first dc) . What does the "0" stand for? dc in the same first ch with ch3 ? Because if I do ch3 and the repeat "skip 1 make 6" I keep ending with 103 dc (ch3 incl), not 104.

03.01.2021 - 18:12:

country flag Marie wrote:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas à quoi servent les 16 mailles en l'air au début du dos devant. J'ai commencé les brides à partir du marqueur ce qui fait que ces 16 mailles sont sur la manche ai-je manqué quelque chose ?

28.12.2020 - 21:30:

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie, ces 16 mailles en l'air correspondent aux 2 chaînettes de 8 mailles en l'air que vous avez monté sous chacune des 2 manches. Vous avez au total 146-164-180 brides pour le dos et le devant + 2 x 8 mailles en l'air soit 16 mailles en l'air sous les manches. Bon crochet!

04.01.2021 kl. 11:27:

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