DROPS / 186 / 34

Nordic Fling by DROPS Design

Sweater with multi-colored pattern and round yoke, crocheted top down with 3/4 long sleeves and A-shape. Size: S - XXXL Piece is crocheted in DROPS Cotton Merino.

DROPS design: Pattern cm-074
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
400-450-500-550-600-650 g color 01, off white
150-150-150-150-200 g color 16, denim blue

Piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.


DROPS CROCHET Hook size 4 mm / G/6 - or size needed to get 18 double crochets x 9 rows = 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

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Color combinations shown are:
A) DROPS Cotton Merino 01, 13.
B) DROPS Cotton Merino 01, 15.
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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 4.30 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour 4.30 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 47.30$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.7.

CROCHET INFO:
Piece is worked back and forth but worked together on every row, i.e. work from right side and wrong side but work every row together with 1 slip stitch.
Begin every double crochet row with 3 chain stitches (replaces first double crochet). Finish row with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of row.
Begin every single crochet row with 1 chain stitch (does not replace first single crochet). Finish row with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch at beginning of row.
On 1st row in A.1 begin and end row as follows: Work 3 chain stitches (does not replace first double crochet), finish row with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch.
On 1st row in A.2, A.6 and A.7 begin and end row as follows: Work 1 slip stitch in each of the first e2 stitches, 3 chain stitches (replaces first double crochet), finish row with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch.
Begin every half double crochet row with 2 chain stitches (replace first half double crochet). Finish row with 1 slip stitch in 2nd chain stitch at beginning of row.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To calculate how to increase/decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 96 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases/decreases to be done (e.g. 20) = 4.8. In this example increase in approx. alternately every 4th and 5th stitch. Increase 1 stitch by working 2 stitches in same stitch.
To decrease evenly work alternately every 3rd and 4th stitch together and every 4th and 5th stitch together.

COLOR PATTERN:
When switching color at the beginning of a row, work slip stitch at the end of previous row with the new color.
When working with several color on a row, work as follows:
When changing color work as follows: Work last double crochet/single crochet with first color but wait with last pull through, switch to next color and work last pull through, then work next double crochet/single crochet.
When working with two colors place strand for the color not worked over stitches from previous row, work around the strand so that it is hidden and follows. Make sure to avoid tights yarn and not to tighten yarn when picking it up from previous row.
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SWEATER:
Worked back and forth but work together on every row, top down.

YOKE:
Work 108-113-117-127-131-136 chain stitches on hook size 4 mm / G/6 with denim blue and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch. Work 1 chain stitch - read CROCHET INFO, 1 single crochet in each of the first 2-0-4-0-4-2 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet in each of the next 6 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* = 92-96-100-108-112-116 single crochets. On next row work from right side: Work 1 single crochet in each single crochet and increase 0-20-16-16-12-24 stitches evenly – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 92-116-116-124-124-140 single crochets.
Work next row as follows from wrong side (row begins in transition between back piece and right sleeve) - read COLOR PATTERN:
NOTE! When working from wrong side, read diagrams from left to right.
Back piece: Work A.2 (= 4 stitches) over 28-32-32-36-36-40 stitches (= 7-8-8-9-9-10 times).
Left sleeve: Work A.1 (= 1 stitch) over next stitch, repeat A.2 over 16-24-24-24-24-28 stitches (= 4-6-6-6-6-7 times), A.1 over next stitch.
Front piece: Work A.2 over 28-32-32-36-36-40 stitches (= 7-8-8-9-9-10 times).
Right sleeve: Work A.1, repeat A.2 over 16-24-24-24-24-28 stitches (= 4-6-6-6-6-7 times), A.1 over next stitch.
On last row in A.1 and in A.2 increase 8-0-20-28-10-26 single crochets evenly. When A.1 and A.2 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 116-132-152-168-150-182 single crochets on last row. Piece measures approx. 4 cm / 1½''.
Work next row as follows from wrong side:
Back piece: Work A.5a (= 8 stitches) over 32-32-40-40-40-48 stitches (= 4-4-5-5-5-6 times).
Left sleeve: Work A.3 (= 2 stitches), A.4 (= 1 stitch), A.3 over 2 stitches, repeat A.5a over 16-24-16-16-16-16 stitches (= 2-3-2-2-2-2 times), A.4 over 0-0-0-0-1-1 stitch, A.3 over 0-0-2-2-0-0 stitches, A.5a over 0-0-8-16-8-16 stitches (= 0-0-1-2-1-2 times), A.3 over 2 stitches, A.4 over 1 stitch, A.3 over 2 stitches.
Front piece: Work A.5a over 32-32-40-40-40-48 stitches (= 4-4-5-5-5-6 times).
Right sleeve: Work A.3 (= 2 stitches), A.4 (= 1 stitch), A.3 over 2 stitches, repeat A.5a over 16-24-16-16-16-16 stitches (= 2-3-2-2-2-2 times), A.4 over 0-0-0-0-1-1 stitch, A.3 over 0-0-2-2-0-0 stitches, A.5a over 0-0-8-16-8-16 stitches (= 0-0-1-2-1-2 times), A.3 over 2 stitches, A.4 over 1 stitch and A.3 over 2 stitches. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
When A.5a and A.3 have been worked 1 time vertically, work next row as follows from right side:
Right sleeve: Work A.5b (= 8 stitches), A.4 as before, A.5b over 32-40-48-56-24-24 stitches (= 4-5-6-7-3-3 times), A.4 0-0-0-0-1-1 time in total as before, A.5b over 0-0-0-0-16-24 stitches (= 0-0-0-0-2-3 times), A.4 as before, A.5b over 8 stitches.
Front piece: Work A.5b over 32-32-40-40-40-48 stitches (= 4-4-5-5-5-6 times). Left sleeve: Work A.5b, A.4 as before, A.5b over 32-40-48-56-24-24 stitches (= 4-5-6-7-3-3 times), A.4 0-0-0-0-1-1 time in total as before, A.5b over 0-0-0-0-16-24 stitches (= 0-0-0-0-2-3 times), A.4 as before, A.5b over 8 stitches.
Back piece: Work A.5b over 32-32-40-40-40-48 stitches (= 4-4-5-5-5-6 times).
Continue pattern like this.
When A.4 and A.5b have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 244-260-292-308-318-350 single crochets on last row. Piece measures approx. 18 cm / 7''.
Now work A.5c in the round over all stitches AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row increase 0-0-0-0-2-2 stitches evenly (= 61-65-73-77-80-88 times in width) = 244-260-292-308-320-352 stitches. Increase 2-4-2-0-0-0 stitches evenly on last row = 246-264-294-308-320-352 stitches.
Insert 1 marker mid back (= row begins here later).

SIZE S – M:
When A.5c has been worked 1 time vertically, piece measures approx. 21- 21 cm = 8 1/4"-8 1/4". Now finish piece with off white.
Yoke should now be done, but if the crochet gauge is wrong vertically and piece does not measure 21-21 cm = 8 1/4"-8 1/4", work A.6 (= 3 stitches) over all stitches (= 88 times in width). Work until piece measures 21-21 cm = 8 1/4"-8 1/4". Now divide piece for body and sleeves.

SIZE L:
When A.5c has been worked 1 time vertically, piece measures approx. 21 cm / 8 1/4''. Now finish piece with off white.
Work A.6 (= 3 stitches) over all stitches (= 98 times in width). Work until piece measures 22 cm / 8 3/4''. Now divide piece for body and sleeves.

SIZE XL - XL-XXL-XXXL:
When A.5c has been worked 1 time vertically, piece measures approx. 21 cm / 8 1/4''. Then work as follows:
Right sleeve: Work A.2 over the next 20 stitches (= 5 times), A.1 over next stitch, A.2 over 72-80-88 stitches (= 18-20-22 times), A.1 over next stitch, A.2 over 20 stitches (= 5 times).
Back piece: Work A.2 over 40-36-44 stitches (= 10-9-11 times).
Left sleeve: Work A.2 over the next 20 stitches (= 5 times), A.1 over next stitch, A.2 over 72-80-88 stitches (= 18-20-22 times), A.1 over next stitch, A.2 over 20 stitches (= 5 times).
Front piece: Work A.2 over 40-40-48 stitches (= 10-10-12 times).
On last row in A.1 and in A.2 increase 0-15-13 stitches evenly.
When A.1 and A.2 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 324-351-381 single crochets on last row. Piece measures approx. 24 cm / 9½''. (Yoke in size XL should be done, but if crochet gauge is wrong vertically and piece does not measures 24 cm / 9½'' continue working). Now finish piece with off white.
Work A.6 over all stitches (= 108-117-127 times in width). Work until piece measures 24-26-28 cm / 9½"-10 1/4"-11''. Now divide piece for body and sleeves.

ALL SIZES:
Now finish piece with off white.
= 246-264-294-324-351-381 stitches. Cut the yarn. Work from mid back (i.e. from marker) as follows: Work A.6 over 36-39-42-45-51-57 stitches (= 12-13-14-15-17-19 times = approx. half back piece), skip the next 54-57-66-72-75-78 stitches (= sleeve), work 6 chain stitches under sleeve, work A.6 over 69-75-81-90-99-111 stitches and increase 0-0-0-0-3-3 stitches evenly (= 69-75-81-90-102-114 stitches = 23-25-27-30-34-38 times = front piece), skip the next 54-57-66-72-75-78 stitches (= sleeve), work 6 chain stitches under sleeve and A.6 over 33-36-39-45-51-57 stitches (= 11-12-13-15-17-19 times = approx. half back piece). Finish sleeves and body separately.

BODY:
= 150-162-174-192-216-240 stitches. Work A.6 (= 50-54-58-64-72-80 times in total in width). When piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'' from where piece was divided from sleeves, adjust so that next row is only double crochets, increase evenly every 3 cm / 1'' (adjust so that all increases are done on 1 row with only double crochets) as follows:
Increase 6 double crochets 5-5-5-5-6-6 times in total, then 3 double crochets 1-1-1-1-0-0 times in total = 183-195-207-225-252-276 double crochets. Work the increased stitches in A.6. When all increases are done, repeat A.6 61-65-69-75-83-91 times in total in width. Continue pattern until piece measures 28-30-31-31-31-31 cm / 11"-11 3/4"-12 1/4"-12 1/4"-12 1/4"-12 1/4'', adjust to finish with 1 row with only double crochets. Fasten off. Piece measures approx. 53-55-57-59-61-63 cm / 21"-21 5/8"-22 1/2"-23 1/4"-24"-24 3/4" in total.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth but work together on every row. Finish piece with off white.
Begin working in the 4th chain stitch of the 6 chain stitches worked in armhole on body with off white as follows: Work 1 slip stitch, 3 chain stitch (= 1 double crochet), work 1 double crochet in each of the next 2 chain stitches, A.6 over the next 54-57-66-72-75-78 double crochets and 1 double crochet in each of the last 3 chain stitches under sleeve = 60-63-72-78-81-84 double crochets. Work A.6 over all stitches (= 20-21-24-26-27-28 times in width).
When piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'' from where sleeve was divided from body, decrease 3 double crochets evenly! Decrease like this every 4-4-2½-2-1½-1½ cm / 1½"-1½"-7/8"-3/4"-½"-½'' 6-6-9-10-11-11 times in total = 42-45-45-48-48-51 stitches. Repeat A.6 14-15-15-16-16-17 times in total in width. Continue pattern until piece measures 27-26-25-23-22-20 cm / 10½"-10 1/4"-9 3/4"-9"-8 3/4"-8'' from where it was divided from body. Work A.7 over all stitches (= 14-15-15-16-16-17 times in width). Fasten off when A.7 has been worked 1 time vertically. Sleeve measures approx. 29-30-29-27-26-24 cm / 11 3/8"-11 3/4"-11½"-10½"-10 1/4"-9½'' from where sleeve was divided from body.
Work the other sleeve the same way.

NECK EDGE:
Worked back and forth but work together on every row. Work over chain stitch row in the neck with denim blue as follows:
ROW 1 (from right side): Work 1 half double crochet in the gap between every single crochet = 92-96-100-108-112-116 half double crochet.
ROW 2 (= from wrong side): Work 1 single crochet in every half double crochet = 92-96-100-108-112-116 single crochets. Fasten off. Piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4" in total.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 22.05.2019
Correction - Size S: Work yoke until piece measures 21 cm = 8 1/4". Body: work A.6 until piece measures 28 cm = 11" from division. Sleeves: work A.6 until piece measures 25 cm = 9 3/4" from division.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= single crochet in stitch with denim blue
= double crochet in stitch with off white
= chain stitch with off white
= single crochet in/around stitch with denim blue
= single crochet in stitch with off white
= single crochet in back loop of stitch with denim blue (= this stitch is always worked from right side)
= double crochet in stitch with denim blue
= single crochet in back loop of stitch with off white (= this stitch is always worked from right side)
= work 3 double crochets together with off white as follows: Work 1 double crochet in first stitch, but wait with last pull through, work 1 double crochet more in each of the next 2 stitches, but wait with last pull through, pull yarn through all 4 loops on hook.
= work 2 double crochets together with off white as follows: Work 1 double crochet in first stitch, but wait with last pull through, work 1 double crochet in next stitch, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook.
= work 3 double crochets together with denim blue
= work 2 double crochets together with denim blue
= row has already been worked, begin on next row
= work 1 with denim blue: Work 1 double crochet in next stitch, but wait with last pull through, work 1 double crochet in next stitch, but wait with last pull through, work 1 double crochet more in same stitch, but wait with last pull through, pull yarn through all 4 loops on hook.
= 1 double crochet around chain stitch/between 2 double crochets with off white
= crochet direction



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 186-34) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (29)

Maialen 09.10.2019 - 17:39:

Hola! Después de trabajar A.5a. y A3. En vertical pone que la siguiente fila se teja del lado derecho pero a mi me tocaría del revés, hay que continuar sin girar la labor? Y cuando se comienza dicha fila habla de trabajar A5.b , A4 como antes, ¿como es como antes? Porque anteriormente solo se ha trabajado en vertical A.5a y A.3 Muchas gracias!

Stella 06.10.2019 - 11:40:

Hallo, genau wie Hannah schon geschrieben hat, habe ich ein Problem mit der ersten Reihe A5b. Diese muss, wie auch in eurer Antwort zu ihrer Frage beschrieben, eine Rückreihe sein. In der Anleitung im Teil "Passe" steht aber, dass es eine Hinreihe sei und die Reihenfolge (Ärmel/Rückenteil/etc) ist auch dem entsprechend. Soll diese Reihe also totzdem als Rückreihe gehäkelt werden und die Anleitung wird dann quasi rückwärts gelesen? Vielen Dank und liebe Grüße

Gitte 22.09.2019 - 20:09:

Når A.5a og A.3 er hæklet 1 gang i højden. Skal A.3 hækles over alle ærmernes masker? Således at antal af masker bliver fordoblet? Ville iøvrigt være dejligt hvis maskeantal var angivet. Herefter bliver næste række en vrangside og ikke retside, ikke? Længere nede står der ved højre ærme A.4 som før, hvad vil det sige? Som før nævnes flere gange, hvilket før, hvordan før? Iøvrigt en flot bluse som jeg håber at få hjælp til at få lavet. Med venlig hilsen Gitte

DROPS Design 26.09.2019 kl. 10:29:

Hej Gitte, du hækler A.4 i hver overgang mellem ryg/forstykke og ærmer (+ en ekstra gang midt på ærmet) du tager ud ifølge diagram A.4, og du hækler samme række i diagrammet som i de andre diagrammet. God fornøjelse!

Cristina 14.09.2019 - 17:56:

Cuando comienzas A3 A4 y A5a en las mangas..sobre cuántos puntos trabajamos? Qué significa A.3(=2puntos)..hacer 2 puntos o trabajar en 2 puntos. . A.4(=1punto). Hacer un punto o trabajar en un punto?¿ A5a está claro que son 16. Y luego cuándo dice A.4 como antes..qué significa. Porque empiezan a sobrar puntos y sale mucho vuelo en las.mangas. Gracias Cris

DROPS Design 15.09.2019 kl. 20:45:

Hola Cristina. Trabajar A.3 (= SOBRE 2 puntos), A.4 (= SOBRE 1 punto), A.3 SOBRE 2 puntos, repetir A.5a sobre 16-24-16-16-16-16 puntos (= 2-3-2-2-2-2 veces), A.4 SOBRE 0-0-0-0-1-1 punto (en las tallas S-XL no se trabaja A.4) , A.3 sobre 0-0-2-2-0-0 puntos (solo se trabaja A.3 en las tallas L-XL), A.5a sobre 0-0-8-16-8-16 puntos (= 0-0-1-2-1-2 veces) ( no se trabaja A.5a en las tallas S-M), A.3 sobre 2 puntos, A.4 sobre 1 punto, A.3 sobre 2 puntos.

Charlotte 04.09.2019 - 17:09:

How many stitches on each sleeve in row 3 of A.5a?

DROPS Design 05.09.2019 kl. 08:54:

Dear Charlotte, A.5a is worked over 8 stitches and repeated a total of 3-2 times depending + 0-1-2 times on your size. Happy crocheting!

Tove Mejer 18.07.2019 - 10:09:

I mønsteret står der at når A5a og A3 er hæklet skal næste række på retsiden, men den sidste række er på retsiden, skal der så ikke vendes her ?

DROPS Design 30.09.2019 kl. 09:06:

Hej Tove, nej omgangen før er hæklet fra vrangen. God fornøjelse!

Hailey 27.05.2019 - 14:46:

Hi there, I commented two weeks ago, is there any answer yet? Thank you

DROPS Design 27.05.2019 kl. 14:54:

Dear Hailey, a correction has been made - see red text at the end of the written pattern. Happy crocheting!

Hannah 19.05.2019 - 23:00:

Wenn der Teil mit A.5a 1x in der Höhe gehäkelt wurde und man mit dem Teil mit A.5b beginnen soll, so soll man diesen mit einer Hinreihe beginnen. Jedoch endet der Teil mit A.5a auch mit einer Hinreihe. Somit würde dazwischen eine Rückreihe fehlen. Wendet man das Häkelstück dann einfach nicht und fährt normal fort oder wendet man es und liest die Reihenfolge dann einfach verkehrt? Vielen Dank schonmal im Voraus!

DROPS Design 20.05.2019 kl. 12:59:

Liebe Hannah, die 1. Reihe in A.5a is eine Rückreihe, die letzte Reihe in A.5a ist eine Hinreihe - die 1. Reihe in A.5b wird dann eine Rückreihe sein. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Hailey 12.05.2019 - 18:06:

Hi there, I’m crocheting this pattern in size S, however I’m having a problem. When the specific size S instructions start, it tells me to work A5c until piece measures 19cm. However at the end of A5b, the piece already measures 18cm (as stated in the pattern), and as stated in the instructions for size M, one vertical round of A5c will bring the piece to 21cm. So I am unsure of what to do, should I simply work part of A5c to until the piece is 19cm and then stop? Thank you! Hailey

DROPS Design 14.05.2019 kl. 09:07:

Dear Hailey, thanks for feedback, we will check pattern. Thanks for your patience.

Marta Corado 18.03.2019 - 18:54:

"Piece is worked back and forth but worked together on every row, i.e. work from right side and wrong side but work every row together with 1 slip stitch." what does this mean? I cannot understand. and what is the wrong and the right side of a work that is worked in the round? Please help!

DROPS Design 19.03.2019 kl. 01:22:

Dear Marta, the right side (RS) is what is facing outside, what you see, the wrong side (WS) is the back side of the piece. With this piece, hough it looks like it is made on the round, however, you crochet one row from the RS (the outside of the piece), and the next row from the WS (the back side) of thepiece, BUT join the stitches at the end of each row. Happy Crafting!

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