DROPS / 180 / 15

Winter Sunshine by DROPS Design

Jumper with round yoke and Norwegian multi-coloured pattern, crocheted top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is crocheted in DROPS Karisma.

DROPS design: Pattern u-812
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
600-650-750-800-900-950 g colour 55, light beige brown
150-150-150-200-200-200 g colour no 01, off white
50-50-50-50-100-100 g colour 77, light oak
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 52, dark mustard

Piece can also be crochet with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 mm - or size needed to get 18 treble crochets x 9 rows = 10 cm in width and 10 cm vertically.
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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 37.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. When A.4 has been worked 1 time vertically, repeat A.4a until finished measurements.

CROCHET INFO:
Piece is worked both in the round and back and forth. Work alternately from right side and wrong side, and finish every row with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of row.
Beginning every row with treble crochets with 3 chain stitches (= first treble crochet) and finish with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of row, turn piece.
On every round with double crochets replace first double crochet with 1 chain stitch. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in 1st chain stitch at beginning of round.

COLOUR PATTERN:
When changing colour at the beginning of a new row work as follows: Work last treble crochet with first colour but wait with last pull through. Switch to new colour, work last pull through and 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of row. turn piece and work 3 chain stitches (= beginning of new row).
When changing colour in a row work as follows: Work 1 treble crochet with first colour but wait with last pull through. Switch to new colour, work last pull through with new colour.
When working with two colours place strand for the colour not worked over stitches from previous row, work around the strand so that it is hidden and follows in the round. Make sure to avoid tights yarn and not to tighten yarn when picking it up from previous row.

INCREASE TIP-1 (applies to yoke):
Work 2 treble crochets in same colour in 1 treble crochet on previous row.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to body):
Work until 3 treble crochets remain before marker thread, work 2 treble crochets in next treble crochet, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 4 treble crochets (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches) and 2 treble crochets in next treble crochet (= 2 treble crochets increased). Repeat at next marker thread (= 4 treble crochets increased in total on row).

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Work until 4 treble crochets remain before marker thread, work 1 treble crochet but wait with last yarn over and pull through (= 2 loops on hook), then work next treble crochet, but on last pull through pull through all 3 loops on hook (= 1 treble crochet decreased), work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 4 treble crochets (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), work the next 2 treble crochets together the same way (= 1 treble crochet decreased = 2 treble crochets decreased on row).
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JUMPER:
Worked top down, in the round and back and forth. Work together at the end of every row. Worked from mid back.

YOKE:
Work 106-110-115-120-124-129 chain stitches on hook size 4.5 mm with light beige brown with and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch. Work 3 chain stitches (= 1 treble crochet) - READ CROCHET INFO, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 0-4-2-0-4-2 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 6 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* = 92-96-100-104-108-112 treble crochets.
Work A.1 and A.2 as follows:
Work pattern, increase in pattern (see increase in diagram) and increase evenly - READ INCREASE TIP-1.
ROW 1 (= right side):
Work A.1 (= 2 treble crochets) over the first 14-14-16-17-18-18 treble crochets and increase 2-2-2-3-4-4 treble crochets evenly (= half back piece).
Work A.2 (= 4 treble crochets), A.1 over the next 10 treble crochets and increase 2-4-4-4-4-6 treble crochets evenly, A.2 over the next 4 treble crochets (= right sleeve).
Work A.1 over the next 28-30-32-34-36-38 treble crochets and increase 4-4-4-6-8-8 treble crochets evenly (= half back piece).
Work A.2 over the next 4 treble crochets, A.1 over the next 10 treble crochets and increase 2-4-4-4-4-6 treble crochets evenly, A.2 over the next 4 treble crochets (= left sleeve).
Work A.1 over the last 14-16-16-17-18-20 treble crochets and increase 2-2-2-3-4-4 treble crochets evenly (= half back piece) = 112-120-124-132-140-148 treble crochets (including increase in A.2) – READ COLOUR PATTERN!

ROW 2 (= wrong side):
Work A.1 over the first 16-18-18-20-22-24 treble crochets, A.2, repeat A.1 over the next 12-14-14-14-14-16 treble crochets, A.2, repeat A.1 over the next 32-34-36-40-44-46 treble crochets, A.2, repeat A.1 over the next 12-14-14-14-14-16 treble crochets, A.2, repeat A.1 over the last 16-16-18-20-22-22 treble crochets = 120-128-132-140-148-156 treble crochets (including increase in A.2). REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! 

ROW 3 (= right side):
Work pattern = 8 treble crochets increased in A.2 = 128-136-140-148-156-164 treble crochets.

ROW 4 (= wrong side):
Work A.1 over the first 16-18-18-20-22-24 treble crochets and increase 2-0-0-3-4-4 treble crochets evenly, A.2, work A.1 over the next 12-14-14-14-14-16 treble crochets and increase 0-4-4-4-4-6 treble crochets evenly, A.2, work A.1 over the next 32-34-36-40-44-46 treble crochets and increase 4-2-4-6-8-8 treble crochets evenly, A.2, work A.1 over the next 12-14-14-14-14-16 treble crochets and increase 0-4-4-4-4-6 treble crochets evenly, A.2, work A.1 over the last 16-16-18-20-22-22 treble crochets and increase 2-2-2-3-4-4 treble crochets evenly = 144-156-162-176-188-200 treble crochets (including increase in A.2).

ROW 5 (= right side):
Work A.1 over the first 18-18-20-23-26-26 treble crochets, A.2, work A.1 over the next 12-18-18-18-18-22 treble crochets, A.2, work A.1 over the next 36-36-40-46-52-54 treble crochets, A.2, work A.1 over the next 12-18-18-18-18-22 treble crochets, A.2, work A.1 over the last 18-18-18-23-26-28 treble crochets = 152-164-170-184-196-208 treble crochets (including increase in A.2).

Piece now measures approx. 7 cm. Now work A.2 as before and A.3 is worked over A.1 as follows:

ROW 6 (= wrong side):
Work A.3 over the first 18-18-18-23-26-28 treble crochets and increase 3-3-3-4-4-2 treble crochets evenly, A.2, work A.3 over the next 12-18-18-18-18-22 treble crochets and increase 0-0-3-3-3-5 treble crochets evenly, A.2, work A.3 over the next 36-36-40-46-52-54 treble crochets and increase 3-6-5-5-8-9 treble crochets evenly, A.2, work A.3 over the next 12-18-18-18-18-22 treble crochets and increase 0-0-3-3-3-5 treble crochets evenly, A.2, work A.3 over the last 18-18-20-23-26-26 treble crochets and increase 0-3-4-4-4-4 treble crochets evenly = 162-180-192-207-222-237 treble crochets (including increase in A.2).

ROW 7 (= right side):
Work A.3 over the first 18-21-24-27-30-30 treble crochets, A.2, work A.3 over the next 12-18-21-21-21-27 treble crochets, A.2, work A.3 over the next 39-42-45-51-60-63 treble crochets, A.2, work A.3 over the next 12-18-21-21-21-27 treble crochets, A.2, work A.3 over the last 21-21-21-27-30-30 treble crochets = 166-184-196-211-226-241 treble crochets (including increase in A.2).

ROW 8 (= wrong side):
Work pattern as before.

ROW 9 (= right side):
Work pattern as before and increase 2-0-4-5-6-7 treble crochets evenly on row = 168-184-200-216-232-248 treble crochets.
Piece measures approx. 11 cm.
Then work according to diagram A.4 (= 8 treble crochets) – see increase in diagram, 21-23-25-27-29-31 times in total in width until piece measures 25-26-28-30-32-34 cm. When all increases are done there are 252-276-300-324-348-372 treble crochets on row.
Now work body and sleeves as follows: Work A.4 over the first 36-41-45-49-54-57 treble crochets (= half back piece), 8-8-8-10-10-10 chain stitches, insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these stitches, skip the next 53-56-60-63-65-71 treble crochets (= sleeve), work A.4 over the next 73-82-90-99-109-115 treble crochets (= front piece), 8-8-8-10-10-10 chain stitches, insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these stitches, skip the next 53-56-60-63-65-71 treble crochets (= sleeve), work A.4 over the last 37-41-45-50-55-58 treble crochets (= half back piece). Cut the yarn.

BODY:
= 146-164-180-198-218-230 treble crochets and 16-16-16-20-20-20 chain stitches (= 162-180-196-218-238-250 stitches in total). Now work piece with beginning from marker thread in the side. Insert 1 marker in the piece. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE! Leave marker in piece, move marker thread when working. Continue with A.4 The treble crochets that do not fit pattern in each side are worked in light beige brown.
When piece measures 4 cm, increase 2 treble crochets at each marker thread - READ INCREASE TIP-2! Increase like this every 5-9-9-9-9-9 cm 4-3-3-3-3-3 times in total = 178-192-208-230-250-262 treble crochets. When increasing, work the treble crochets in pattern, treble crochets that do not fit the pattern in the side is worked in light beige brown. Continue until piece measures 29-30-30-30-30-30 cm from marker (= 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from neck edge), finish after 4 rows with light beige brown. Fasten off.

SLEEVE:
= 53-56-60-63-65-71 treble crochets. Continue with A.4 Begin by working in the 5th-5th-5th-6th-6th-6th chain stitch of the 8-8-8-10-10-10 chain stitches worked in armhole on body as follows: Work 1 slip stitch, 3 chain stitches (= 1 treble crochet), work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 3-3-3-4-4-4 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet in every treble crochet over sleeve, 1 treble crochet in each of the last 4-4-4-5-5-5 chain stitches under sleeve = 61-64-68-73-75-81 treble crochets. The treble crochets that do not fit pattern under sleeve are worked in light beige brown. Insert 1 marker thread mid under sleeve. Insert 1 marker in the piece. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE! Leave marker in piece, move marker thread when working.
When piece measures 4 cm, decrease 2 treble crochets on each side of marker thread - READ DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2½-2-2-1½-1½-1 cm 10-12-12-14-13-16 times in total = 41-40-44-45-49-49 treble crochets. Continue until piece measures 36-36-34-33-31-30 cm from marker (61-62-62-63-63-64 cm from neck edge), finish after 4 rows with light beige brown. Fasten off. Work the other sleeve the same way.

NECK EDGE:
Worked in the round from mid back. Work chain stitch where 1st row with treble crochets was worked (i.e. the chain stitches skipped are not worked = 92-96-100-104-108-112 stitches).
Work with light beige brown as follows:
ROUND 1: Work an elevation in the back of neck as follows: Fasten yarn with 1 slip stitch and work 3 chain stitches that replace first treble crochet, work 1 treble crochet in each of the first 18-19-20-21-22-23 stitches, 1 half treble crochet in each of the next 10 stitches, 1 double crochet in each of the next 34-36-38-40-42-44 stitches, 1 half treble crochet in each of the next 10 stitches, 1 treble crochet in each of the last 19-20-21-22-23-24 stitches.
ROUND 2: Work 1 double crochet in every stitch and decrease 12 stitches evenly = 80-84-88-92-96-100 double crochets. Fasten off.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 01.09.2017
Diagram A.4 has been updated.

Diagram

= off white
= 2 treble crochets in same treble with off white
= light beige brown
= 2 treble crochets in same treble with light beige brown
= dark mustard
= 2 treble crochets in same treble with dark mustard
= light oak
= 2 treble crochets in same treble with light oak
= no stitch
= crochet direction


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 180-15) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (65)

Maas Van Bommel 02.02.2020 - 14:54:

Drops Nr, 180-15. Patroon u-812 Trui in Noors patroon. \\r\\nAls ik de 1e toer tel kom ik op 120 steken maar het moeten er 132 zijn. Maat XL. Dit zijn mijn meerderingen: 17+3, 4 , 10+4, 4, 34+6, 4, 10+4, 4, 17+3 Wat doe ik fout?

Kristin N 25.01.2020 - 20:58:

When working with A4, do we need continue to alternate rows RS/WS?

DROPS Design 27.01.2020 kl. 08:46:

Dear Kristin, correct, you continue working alternately from RS and from WS. Happy crocheting!

Freja 05.11.2019 - 19:30:

Hejsa! Når man når til at lave luftmaske til ærmerne, skal det så følge A4 eller skal de alle sammen være i den samme farve? Vh Freja

DROPS Design 11.11.2019 kl. 09:44:

HeiFreja. Luftmaskene til ermene hekles i sammen farge. God Fornøyelse!

Freja Stougaard Steffens 03.10.2019 - 11:09:

Hej igen igen, hvis jeg skal springe 1 maske over og derefter lave 8 masker har jeg brugt 9 masker og ikke 8, derfor passer det ikke med de 23 gange rundt

DROPS Design 03.10.2019 kl. 11:38:

Hej Freja, nej du springer ingen maske over. Du springer over den sorte firkant i selve diagrammet. Du hækler 8 masker over 8 masker ifølge diagrammet og det gør du 23 gange rundt. :)

Freja Stougaard Steffens 03.10.2019 - 11:06:

Hej igen igen, hvis jeg skal springe 1 maske over og derefter lave 8 masker har jeg brugt 9 masker og ikke 8, derfor passer det ikke med de 23 gange rundt.

Freja Stougaard Steffens 02.10.2019 - 15:40:

Hej igen. Hvis jeg springer en maske over passer det ikke med at jeg gentager A.4 23 gange og det passer ikke samlet når jeg hækler videre. Hvad gør jeg galt?

DROPS Design 03.10.2019 kl. 10:45:

Hej Freja, jo mønsteret stemmer når du følger diagrammet. Du har 184 masker, hækler over 8 masker ifølge diagrammet x 23 = 184 masker. God fornøjelse!

Heidi Erndal 16.09.2019 - 10:54:

Tak for svar. A2 er det så 4. række nedefra i diagrammet, fordi jeg er i række 4? Først der kan jeg læse mig til 12 masker i A2.

DROPS Design 17.09.2019 kl. 14:33:

Hej Heidi, du starter alle diagrammerne på nederste række og hækler dig opad maske for maske ifølge diagrammerne, i samme rækkefølge som de hækles. God fornøjelse!

Heidi Erndal 15.09.2019 - 19:05:

Er ved række 4 i str. M. Når jeg lægger antal masker sammen får jeg 146 hvor opskriften siger 156, så jeg må gøre noget forkert med A2. Hvordan kan jeg se hvad linje jeg skal bruge? Jeg synes jeg er nået til tredje hvilket svarer til 10 færdige masker. Kan I hjælpe?

DROPS Design 16.09.2019 kl. 10:39:

Hei Heidi. Litt usikker på det kan ha gått galt for deg, men har du husket alle økningene i A.2? Det hekles A.1 over 96 staver (18+14+34+14+16). A.2 (=12 staver) hekles 4 ganger = 48 staver. Det økes 12 masker (0+4+2+4+2) jevnt fordelt på denne raden. Til sammen blir dette = 96 + 48 + 12 = 156 staver på 4. rad. God Fornøyelse!

Freja Stougaard Steffens 06.09.2019 - 20:26:

Hej Drops Jeg sidder fast i opskriften. I 9. række i bærestykket, skal man der gentage A.4 23 gange på én omgang? Når der står ingen maske i diagrammet betyder det jeg skal springe en maske over?

DROPS Design 17.09.2019 kl. 16:06:

Hej Freja, ja den springer du bare over, så du har 8 masker i rapporten på de første 3 omgange. God fornøjelse :)

Elise Mortensen 11.08.2019 - 19:59:

Ryg/forstykke - jeg er med på udtagningerne under ærmet. Men så står der “ tag ud således på hver 9 cm totalt 3 gange. Er det hver 9 cm i bredden eller skal udtagninger under ærmerne laves for hver 9 cm i højden?

DROPS Design 16.08.2019 kl. 10:49:

Hej Elise, du tager ud for hver 9.cm i højden. God fornøjelse!

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