DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.10£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Winter Sunshine

Jumper with round yoke and Norwegian multi-coloured pattern, crocheted top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is crocheted in DROPS Karisma.

DROPS 180-15
DROPS design: Pattern u-812
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
600-650-750-800-900-950 g colour 55, light beige brown
150-150-150-200-200-200 g colour no 01, off white
50-50-50-50-100-100 g colour 77, light oak
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 52, dark mustard

Piece can also be crochet with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 mm - or size needed to get 18 treble crochets x 9 rows = 10 cm in width and 10 cm vertically.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.10£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. When A.4 has been worked 1 time vertically, repeat A.4a until finished measurements.

CROCHET INFO:
Piece is worked both in the round and back and forth. Work alternately from right side and wrong side, and finish every row with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of row.
Beginning every row with treble crochets with 3 chain stitches (= first treble crochet) and finish with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of row, turn piece.
On every round with double crochets replace first double crochet with 1 chain stitch. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in 1st chain stitch at beginning of round.

COLOUR PATTERN:
When changing colour at the beginning of a new row work as follows: Work last treble crochet with first colour but wait with last pull through. Switch to new colour, work last pull through and 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of row. turn piece and work 3 chain stitches (= beginning of new row).
When changing colour in a row work as follows: Work 1 treble crochet with first colour but wait with last pull through. Switch to new colour, work last pull through with new colour.
When working with two colours place strand for the colour not worked over stitches from previous row, work around the strand so that it is hidden and follows in the round. Make sure to avoid tights yarn and not to tighten yarn when picking it up from previous row.

INCREASE TIP-1 (applies to yoke):
Work 2 treble crochets in same colour in 1 treble crochet on previous row.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to body):
Work until 3 treble crochets remain before marker thread, work 2 treble crochets in next treble crochet, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 4 treble crochets (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches) and 2 treble crochets in next treble crochet (= 2 treble crochets increased). Repeat at next marker thread (= 4 treble crochets increased in total on row).

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Work until 4 treble crochets remain before marker thread, work 1 treble crochet but wait with last yarn over and pull through (= 2 loops on hook), then work next treble crochet, but on last pull through pull through all 3 loops on hook (= 1 treble crochet decreased), work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 4 treble crochets (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), work the next 2 treble crochets together the same way (= 1 treble crochet decreased = 2 treble crochets decreased on row).
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JUMPER:
Worked top down, in the round and back and forth. Work together at the end of every row. Worked from mid back.

YOKE:
Work 106-110-115-120-124-129 chain stitches on hook size 4.5 mm with light beige brown with and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch. Work 3 chain stitches (= 1 treble crochet) - READ CROCHET INFO, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 0-4-2-0-4-2 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 6 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* = 92-96-100-104-108-112 treble crochets.
Work A.1 and A.2 as follows:
Work pattern, increase in pattern (see increase in diagram) and increase evenly - READ INCREASE TIP-1.
ROW 1 (= right side):
Work A.1 (= 2 treble crochets) over the first 14-14-16-17-18-18 treble crochets and increase 2-2-2-3-4-4 treble crochets evenly (= half back piece).
Work A.2 (= 4 treble crochets), A.1 over the next 10 treble crochets and increase 2-4-4-4-4-6 treble crochets evenly, A.2 over the next 4 treble crochets (= right sleeve).
Work A.1 over the next 28-30-32-34-36-38 treble crochets and increase 4-4-4-6-8-8 treble crochets evenly (= half back piece).
Work A.2 over the next 4 treble crochets, A.1 over the next 10 treble crochets and increase 2-4-4-4-4-6 treble crochets evenly, A.2 over the next 4 treble crochets (= left sleeve).
Work A.1 over the last 14-16-16-17-18-20 treble crochets and increase 2-2-2-3-4-4 treble crochets evenly (= half back piece) = 112-120-124-132-140-148 treble crochets (including increase in A.2) – READ COLOUR PATTERN!

ROW 2 (= wrong side):
Work A.1 over the first 16-18-18-20-22-24 treble crochets, A.2, repeat A.1 over the next 12-14-14-14-14-16 treble crochets, A.2, repeat A.1 over the next 32-34-36-40-44-46 treble crochets, A.2, repeat A.1 over the next 12-14-14-14-14-16 treble crochets, A.2, repeat A.1 over the last 16-16-18-20-22-22 treble crochets = 120-128-132-140-148-156 treble crochets (including increase in A.2). REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION

ROW 3 (= right side):
Work pattern = 8 treble crochets increased in A.2 = 128-136-140-148-156-164 treble crochets.

ROW 4 (= wrong side):
Work A.1 over the first 16-18-18-20-22-24 treble crochets and increase 2-0-0-3-4-4 treble crochets evenly, A.2, work A.1 over the next 12-14-14-14-14-16 treble crochets and increase 0-4-4-4-4-6 treble crochets evenly, A.2, work A.1 over the next 32-34-36-40-44-46 treble crochets and increase 4-2-4-6-8-8 treble crochets evenly, A.2, work A.1 over the next 12-14-14-14-14-16 treble crochets and increase 0-4-4-4-4-6 treble crochets evenly, A.2, work A.1 over the last 16-16-18-20-22-22 treble crochets and increase 2-2-2-3-4-4 treble crochets evenly = 144-156-162-176-188-200 treble crochets (including increase in A.2).

ROW 5 (= right side):
Work A.1 over the first 18-18-20-23-26-26 treble crochets, A.2, work A.1 over the next 12-18-18-18-18-22 treble crochets, A.2, work A.1 over the next 36-36-40-46-52-54 treble crochets, A.2, work A.1 over the next 12-18-18-18-18-22 treble crochets, A.2, work A.1 over the last 18-18-18-23-26-28 treble crochets = 152-164-170-184-196-208 treble crochets (including increase in A.2).

Piece now measures approx. 7 cm. Now work A.2 as before and A.3 is worked over A.1 as follows:

ROW 6 (= wrong side):
Work A.3 over the first 18-18-18-23-26-28 treble crochets and increase 3-3-3-4-4-2 treble crochets evenly, A.2, work A.3 over the next 12-18-18-18-18-22 treble crochets and increase 0-0-3-3-3-5 treble crochets evenly, A.2, work A.3 over the next 36-36-40-46-52-54 treble crochets and increase 3-6-5-5-8-9 treble crochets evenly, A.2, work A.3 over the next 12-18-18-18-18-22 treble crochets and increase 0-0-3-3-3-5 treble crochets evenly, A.2, work A.3 over the last 18-18-20-23-26-26 treble crochets and increase 0-3-4-4-4-4 treble crochets evenly = 162-180-192-207-222-237 treble crochets (including increase in A.2).

ROW 7 (= right side):
Work A.3 over the first 18-21-24-27-30-30 treble crochets, A.2, work A.3 over the next 12-18-21-21-21-27 treble crochets, A.2, work A.3 over the next 39-42-45-51-60-63 treble crochets, A.2, work A.3 over the next 12-18-21-21-21-27 treble crochets, A.2, work A.3 over the last 21-21-21-27-30-30 treble crochets = 166-184-196-211-226-241 treble crochets (including increase in A.2).

ROW 8 (= wrong side):
Work pattern as before.

ROW 9 (= right side):
Work pattern as before and increase 2-0-4-5-6-7 treble crochets evenly on row = 168-184-200-216-232-248 treble crochets.
Piece measures approx. 11 cm.
Then work according to diagram A.4 (= 8 treble crochets) – see increase in diagram, 21-23-25-27-29-31 times in total in width until piece measures 25-26-28-30-32-34 cm. When all increases are done there are 252-276-300-324-348-372 treble crochets on row.
Now work body and sleeves as follows: Work A.4 over the first 36-41-45-49-54-57 treble crochets (= half back piece), 8-8-8-10-10-10 chain stitches, insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these stitches, skip the next 53-56-60-63-65-71 treble crochets (= sleeve), work A.4 over the next 73-82-90-99-109-115 treble crochets (= front piece), 8-8-8-10-10-10 chain stitches, insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these stitches, skip the next 53-56-60-63-65-71 treble crochets (= sleeve), work A.4 over the last 37-41-45-50-55-58 treble crochets (= half back piece). Cut the yarn.

BODY:
= 146-164-180-198-218-230 treble crochets and 16-16-16-20-20-20 chain stitches (= 162-180-196-218-238-250 stitches in total). Now work piece with beginning from marker thread in the side. Insert 1 marker in the piece. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE! Leave marker in piece, move marker thread when working. Continue with A.4 The treble crochets that do not fit pattern in each side are worked in light beige brown.
When piece measures 4 cm, increase 2 treble crochets at each marker thread - READ INCREASE TIP-2! Increase like this every 5-9-9-9-9-9 cm 4-3-3-3-3-3 times in total = 178-192-208-230-250-262 treble crochets. When increasing, work the treble crochets in pattern, treble crochets that do not fit the pattern in the side is worked in light beige brown. Continue until piece measures 29-30-30-30-30-30 cm from marker (= 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from neck edge), finish after 4 rows with light beige brown. Fasten off.

SLEEVE:
= 53-56-60-63-65-71 treble crochets. Continue with A.4 Begin by working in the 5th-5th-5th-6th-6th-6th chain stitch of the 8-8-8-10-10-10 chain stitches worked in armhole on body as follows: Work 1 slip stitch, 3 chain stitches (= 1 treble crochet), work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 3-3-3-4-4-4 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet in every treble crochet over sleeve, 1 treble crochet in each of the last 4-4-4-5-5-5 chain stitches under sleeve = 61-64-68-73-75-81 treble crochets. The treble crochets that do not fit pattern under sleeve are worked in light beige brown. Insert 1 marker thread mid under sleeve. Insert 1 marker in the piece. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE! Leave marker in piece, move marker thread when working.
When piece measures 4 cm, decrease 2 treble crochets on each side of marker thread - READ DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2½-2-2-1½-1½-1 cm 10-12-12-14-13-16 times in total = 41-40-44-45-49-49 treble crochets. Continue until piece measures 36-36-34-33-31-30 cm from marker (61-62-62-63-63-64 cm from neck edge), finish after 4 rows with light beige brown. Fasten off. Work the other sleeve the same way.

NECK EDGE:
Worked in the round from mid back. Work chain stitch where 1st row with treble crochets was worked (i.e. the chain stitches skipped are not worked = 92-96-100-104-108-112 stitches).
Work with light beige brown as follows:
ROUND 1: Work an elevation in the back of neck as follows: Fasten yarn with 1 slip stitch and work 3 chain stitches that replace first treble crochet, work 1 treble crochet in each of the first 18-19-20-21-22-23 stitches, 1 half treble crochet in each of the next 10 stitches, 1 double crochet in each of the next 34-36-38-40-42-44 stitches, 1 half treble crochet in each of the next 10 stitches, 1 treble crochet in each of the last 19-20-21-22-23-24 stitches.
ROUND 2: Work 1 double crochet in every stitch and decrease 12 stitches evenly = 80-84-88-92-96-100 double crochets. Fasten off.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 01.09.2017
Diagram A.4 has been updated.

Diagram

symbols = off white
symbols = 2 treble crochets in same treble with off white
symbols = light beige brown
symbols = 2 treble crochets in same treble with light beige brown
symbols = dark mustard
symbols = 2 treble crochets in same treble with dark mustard
symbols = light oak
symbols = 2 treble crochets in same treble with light oak
symbols = no stitch
symbols = crochet direction
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (87)

country flag Magali wrote:

EMPIÈCEMENT: Crocheter -110- mailles en l'air (pour le modèle M) et fermer en rond avec 1 maille coulée dans la 1ère maille en l'air. Crocheter 3 mailles en l'air (= 1 bride) 1 bride dans chacune des 0-4-2-0-4-2 mailles en l'air suivantes, *sauter 1 maille en l'air, 1 bride dans chacune des 6 mailles en l'air suivantes*, répéter de *-* = 96- brides. Que signifie crocheter 1 bride dans la maille 0 puis 4 puis 2 puis 0 ?

30.04.2022 - 22:28

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Magali, chaque chiffre correspond à la taille, autrement dit, en fonction de la taille vous devrez crocheter soit 0 brides (taille S et XL) ou bien 4 brides (taille M et XXL) ou 2 brides (taille L et XXXL). Bon crochet!

02.05.2022 - 08:37

country flag Lisbeth Eliassen wrote:

Hei igjen. Har for så vidt kommet meg gjennom mønsteret. Å får det til. Men valgte å rekke opp å prøve på nytt da jeg ikke ble fornøyd med overgangene bake på genseren( begynnelsen av omgangen) og under armen (begynnelsen på omgangen etter armhull) Noen som har tips til videoer som viser hvordan du går fra å helle rundt, til fram og tilbake? Eller hvordan få «pene» skjøter/overganger/begynnelse på omgang. Takknemlig for alle tips dere kan gi meg.

19.04.2022 - 20:20

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lisbeth, vi har videoer hvor vi viser hvordan man hækler rundt. Her er feks en hvor vi viser start og slut på hver omgang: Hækle rundt det kan være at den kan hjælpe dig videre :)

22.04.2022 - 13:47

country flag Lisbeth Eliassen wrote:

Hei. Prøver å lage str Xl. Har kommet til 3.rad. Men her stopper det opp å jeg forstår ikke hvordan jeg skal gjøre det videre. Jeg har 140 staver. Men hvis jeg hekler A.2, rad3 får jeg ikke 148 som det står i oppskriften. Hva er det jeg gjør galt?

03.03.2022 - 10:06

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lisbeth. Du hekler fremdeles etter mønster (som er både A.1 og A.2) I rad 1 og 2 økte du jevnt fordelt i A.1 og i A.2 økte du etter diagram. Når du skal hekle 3. rad er det kun i A.2 det skal økes (8 økte staver), og du hekler A.1 over A.1. Når du skal hekle 4. rad er det beskrevet i oppskriften hvordan du skal øke jevnt fordelt i A.1. mvh DROPS Design

07.03.2022 - 13:52

country flag Kathrin wrote:

Hallo.Lese ich das Diagramm in der Hinrunde von rechts nach links und in der Rückrunde von links nach rechts?Oder grundsätzlich in jeder Runde von rechts nach links.

15.02.2022 - 15:38

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Kathrin, ja genau, bei den Rückrunden sollen Sie die Diagramme links nach rechts lesen - hier lesen Sie mehr. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

15.02.2022 - 17:14

country flag Marion wrote:

Ik snap toer 3 niet als ik de tekening volg dan meerder ik per herhaling al 2 keer maar in de tekst staat dat ik maar 8 steken moet meerderen. Dat snap ik niet

09.01.2022 - 13:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marion,

Je haakt toer 3 verder in patroon, dus zoals uitgelegd in toer 2, waarbij er dus in totaal 8 stokjes worden gemeerderd omdat je A.2 4 keer haakt op de toer (daar tussen zit A.1)

10.01.2022 - 17:58

country flag Lene Petri wrote:

Hej med jer. Jeg er ny indenfor hækleverden. Er lige begyndt på Drop design sweater winter sunshine str. XL... er nået til række 3... er gået i stå.. jeg forstår ikke hvad jeg skal gøre. Hvis jeg følger A2 diagrammet, får jeg alt for MANGE masker. Der skal være 148 masker... hvad menes der med (hækle mønster = 8 stangmasker taget ud i A2??? ) Hvordan skal jeg hækle rækken, så maskeantallet passer? På forhånd tak Lene Petri

27.10.2021 - 06:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lene, du har 104 masker og du kan se at udtagningerne er tegnet ind i diagram A.2, det vil sige at på første omgang tager 2 masker ud hver gang du hækler A.2 = 8m + 20m ifølge forklaringen i opskriften = 132 masker. På 2. og 3. omgang tager du kun ud ifølge A.2 = 8 + 8 masker = 148 masker. God fornøjelse!

28.10.2021 - 13:52

country flag Kendall wrote:

Hi there! I am working on the M version of this sweater and running into trouble before I even get to the charts. I have chained 110 and ss together. However when I chain 3, dc in the next 4, and sk 1 dc 6 in the remaining stitches I end up with 95 dc rather than 96. What am I doing wrong here? I can’t seem to figure it out. Thank you in advance!

21.09.2021 - 23:43

country flag Jackie Jarvis wrote:

How do I determine which size garment (sweater, in this case) to make? I can't find any measurements on the pattern's page, and sizes can vary widely by studio.

24.07.2021 - 03:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jackie, you can find all the relevant measurements of the finished piece on the schematic drawing at the bottom of the pattern. We suggest you measure a sweater that fits you and compare. Happy Stitching!

24.07.2021 - 09:35

country flag Estelle wrote:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas bien le début du diagramme A4. Le carré noir indique pas de maille. Mais si je saute cette maille, j’ai 9 brides et le compte n’est pas bon... alors que si je fais 8 brides, je peux le répéter 21 fois pour la taille S comme indiqué. à quoi correspond ce carré noir, et que dois-je faire? Merci !

03.06.2021 - 17:47

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Estelle, ce carré noir n'est pas une maille, autrement dit, A.4 se crochète sur 8 mailles jusqu'au rang 3 où vous augmentez en crochetant 2 brides dan sla même bride en chêne clair = 8ème symbole de la légende = vous avez désormais 9 brides dans A.4. Au tour suivant, vous augmentez de nouveau 1 bride (au début de A.4) = 10 brides. Bon crochet!

04.06.2021 - 07:00

country flag Annemette Bovbjerg Thøgersen wrote:

Jeg har prøvet at lave til omgang 4 et par gange, men kan ikke helt få det til at passe. Såvidt jeg kan se på opskriften, skal man hækle A1 oveni A1 og A2 oveni A2 fra forrige række, og hver række starter og slutter skiftevis med 16 og 18 stangmasker (A1). Men når jeg vender går det galt. Jeg laver en kædemaske i 3. luftmaske, vender og derefter 3 nye luftmasker (=stangmaske), men har nu stadig f.eks. yderligere 18 masker hen til (A2), så derfor i alt 19 stangmasker (inkl luftmasker)

07.04.2021 - 22:21

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Annemette. Litt usikker på hvor det går feil hos deg. Hvilken str hekler du? Husk at de 3 luftmaskene du starter med erstatter 1 stav. Har du fått med deg alle økningne i diagrammene, både i A.1 og A.2? Prøv å sett hjelpemarkører mellom hver diagram, da har man lettere oversikt og kan sjekke etter hver rad at man har det maskeantallet som står i oppskriften. mvh DROPS design

26.04.2021 - 10:10