DROPS / 180 / 8

Blueberry Fizz Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with round yoke, multi-colored Norwegian pattern and A-shape, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Alpaca.

  • Blueberry Fizz Jacket / DROPS 180-8 - Knitted jacket with round yoke, multi-colored Norwegian pattern and A-shape, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL.
The piece is worked in DROPS Alpaca.
  • Blueberry Fizz Jacket / DROPS 180-8 - Knitted jacket with round yoke, multi-colored Norwegian pattern and A-shape, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL.
The piece is worked in DROPS Alpaca.
  • Blueberry Fizz Jacket / DROPS 180-8 - Knitted jacket with round yoke, multi-colored Norwegian pattern and A-shape, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL.
The piece is worked in DROPS Alpaca.
  • Blueberry Fizz Jacket / DROPS 180-8 - Knitted jacket with round yoke, multi-colored Norwegian pattern and A-shape, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL.
The piece is worked in DROPS Alpaca.
DROPS Design: Pattern no z-795
Yarn group A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to Yarn Group A)
250-300-300-350-400-400 g color 6736, navy/purple
50-50-50-100-100-100 g color 3800, old pink
50 g in all sizes in following colors:
2020, light camel
6309, medium petrol
7233, olive
7238, dark olive
7240, petrol
7323, aqua gray

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn Group A)" – see the link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 or 60 cm / 16'' or 24'') SIZE 2.5 mm/ US 1.5 for rib – or the size needed to get 26 stitches and 34 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 521: 7-7-7-8-8-8 items.

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Color combinations shown are:
A) DROPS Alpaca 607, 618, 2020, 7139, 2915, 2925, 6309, 2923
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Alpaca
from 3.70 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.70 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.90 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 44.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

DECREASE/INCREASE TIP:
To work out how to decrease/increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 132 stitches), minus the bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases/increases to be made (e.g. 17) = 7.1.
In this example, decrease by knitting together every 6th and 7th stitch. Do not decrease over the bands.
If you are increasing, make 1 yarn over after approx. every 7th stitch, on the next row work the yarn overs twisted into the pattern so that there are no holes.

ELEVATION:
Insert 1 marker mid back. Start from the right side with old pink and knit until 8-8-8-9-9-10 stitches past the marker, turn, tighten the strand and purl 16-16-16-18-18-20 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 24-24-24-27-27-30 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 32-32-32-36-36-40 stitches. Continue back and forth in this way by working 8-8-8-9-9-10 more stitches each time you turn (remember to tighten the strand when you turn) until you have worked back and forth over a total of 64-64-64-72-72-80 stitches and the last row is from the wrong side, purl to end of row (knit the band).


PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Choose diagram for your size. The whole pattern is worked in stockinette stitch.

KNITTING TIP-1 (for bands):
When working pattern-borders with 2 colors on the yoke, work the background color in the border on the 5 band stitches as well.

KNITTING TIP-2:
To avoid the knitting gauge becoming tighter when you work pattern, it is important that the strands at the back of the piece are not tight. You can increase a needle size when working pattern if this is a problem.

INCREASE TIP (for the sides in the body):
All increases are made from the right side!
Start 1 stitch before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.

DECREASE TIP (for mid under the sleeve):
Start 3 stitches before marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLE:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn): Work from the right side until there are 3 stitches left, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit the last stitch. On the next row knit the yarn over so that there is a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the rib in the neck measures approx. 1½-2 cm / ½"-3/4''. Then work the next 6-6-6-7-7-7 buttonholes with approx. 8½ cm / 3 1/4'' between each one.
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JACKET:
The piece is worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front and top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle, top down, change to double pointed needles when necessary.

NECKLINE:
Cast on 132-136-140-148-152-160 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and old pink. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side. Work 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – see description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until there are 7 stitches left on the row, knit 2 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue the rib in this way – remember BUTTONHOLE on right band – see description above. When the rib measures 2-2-2-3-3-3 cm / 3/4''-3/4''-3/4''-1 1/8''-1 1/8''-1 1/8'' knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 17 stitches in all sizes evenly on row – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 115-119-123-131-135-143 stitches. Continue to work the yoke as described below.

YOKE:
Read KNITTING TIP-1 and 2!
Change to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5. Purl 1 row from the wrong side with 5 band stitches knit in each side. For a better fit, you can now work an ELEVATION in the back of the neck – see description above. When the elevation has been completed, work the next row from the right side as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.1A until there are 6 stitches left on the needle (= 26-27-28-30-31-33 repeats of 4 stitches), work A.1B (= 1 stitch) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
Continue the pattern in this way and at the same time increase on each row marked with an arrow in A.1A as described below – remember DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (always increase on a row from the right side) and REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
Arrow-1: Increase 36-40-44-48-52-56 stitches evenly on row = 151-159-167-179-187-199 stitches.
Arrow-2: Increase 36-38-40-44-48-50 stitches evenly on row = 187-197-207-223-235-249 stitches.
Arrow-3: Increase 28-34-36-40-48-50 stitches evenly on row = 215-231-243-263-283-299 stitches.
Arrow-4: Increase 28-34-40-40-44-48 stitches evenly on row = 243-265-283-303-327-347 stitches.
Arrow-5: Increase 26-34-34-38-44-48 stitches evenly on row = 269-299-317-341-371-395 stitches.
Arrow-6: Increase 26-32-34-38-40-40 stitches evenly on row = 295-331-351-379-411-435 stitches.
Arrow-7: Increase 24-28-32-36-40-40 stitches evenly on row = 319-359-383-415-451-475 stitches.
Arrow-8: Increase 20-20-28-28-32-32 stitches evenly on row = 339-379-411-443-483-507 stitches.
When A.1 has been completed, the piece measures approx. 24-24-24-28-28-28 cm / 9½"-9½"-9½"-11"-11"-11'' from the cast-on edge mid front. Continue stockinette stitch with navy/purple and 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side until the piece measures 24-25-26-28-30-32 cm / 9½"-9 3/4"-10 1/4"-11"-11 3/4"-12½'' from the cast-on edge mid front (if the knitting gauge is right in height, this measurement is reached in S and XL when A.1 has been completed).
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Knit the first 54-59-63-69-76-82 stitches (= front piece), place the next 67-77-85-89-95-95 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on the needle (= in the side under the sleeve), knit the next 97-107-115-127-141-153 stitches (= back piece), place the next 67-77-85-89-95-95 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on the needle (= in the side under the sleeve) and knit the remaining 54-59-63-69-76-82 stitches (= front piece).
Body and sleeves are now finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 221-241-261-285-317-345 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread 58-63-68-74-82-89 stitches in from each side (= 105-115-125-137-153-167 stitches between marker threads on the back piece). Work stockinette stitch back and forth with navy/purple and 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front. When the piece measures 1-1-2-2-2-2 cm / ½"-½"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4'' from the separation, increase 2 stitches in each side – read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase in this way every 8th row (approx. every 2½ cm / 7/8'') to finished length (if the knitting gauge is right in height, increase 13 times in each side).
When the piece measures 32-33-34-34-34-34 cm / 12½"-13"-13½"-13½"-13½"-13½'' from the separation, there are approx. 273-293-313-337-369-397 stitches on the needle. Work 4 ridges back and forth over all stitches. Then bind off with knit from the right side, but to avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can make 1 yarn over after approx. every 8th stitch at the same time as you bind off (the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches). The jacket measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾'' from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 67-77-85-89-95-95 stitches from the thread in one side of the piece on short circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5, in addition knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches cast on under the sleeve with navy/purple = 75-85-95-99-107-109 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches under the sleeve. Start the round here and work stockinette stitch in the round. When the sleeve measures 2-2-2-2-3-3 cm / 3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-1"-1'' from the separation, decrease 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease in this way every 2½-2-1½-1½-1-1 cm / 7/8"-3/4"-½"-½"-3/8"-3/8'' a total of 12-16-19-20-23-23 times = 51-53-57-59-61-63 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 34-34-33-32-30-28 cm / 13½"-13½"-13"-12½"-11 3/4"-11'' from the separation (shorter measurements in larger sizes because of longer yoke). Knit 1 round where you increase 17-19-19-21-19-21 stitches evenly on round = 68-72-76-80-80-84 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and work rib in the round (= knit 2 /purl 2). When the rib measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'' (or desired length) bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl, but to avoid the bind-off edge being tight, you can make 1 yarn over after every 4th stitch AT THE SAME TIME as you bind off (yarn overs bind off as normal stitches). The sleeve measures approx. 42-42-41-40-38-36 cm / 16½"-16½"-16"-15 3/4"-15"-14 1/4'' from the separation. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = olive
symbols = dark olive
symbols = light camel
symbols = aqua grey
symbols = medium petrol
symbols = navy/purple
symbols = petrol
symbols = old pink
symbols = increase row
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 180-8) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (14)

country flag Debbie Anderson 17.07.2021 - 11:21:

Hello, I just wanted to check if you don’t mind, I can’t seem to find measurements for the sizes we can knit the jacket in. Not really sure which size I would need to knit. Thank you for your help.

user icon DROPS Design 17.07.2021 kl. 12:01:

Dear Debbie, you can always find the measurements of the finished piece on the scematic drawing at the pottom of the page. We always suggest that you tale a sweater that fits and compare the numbers. Happy Stitching!

country flag Kaarel Kalatraaler 19.04.2021 - 10:51:

Hello, I think that there is a little mistake in description of making elevation. Knitting of te elevation begins on the right side, is in total 8 rows and is finished on wrong side. The description says to continue with purl till the end of the row. But on this way the left front part will have 2 extra rows. Should it not be correct to turn after the last short row and knit till the end of the row to make it equal?

country flag Marie Provencher 23.03.2021 - 23:02:

Je veux tricoter Drops Blueberry Fizz Jacquet et je ne vois pas les coordonnées pour l’échantillon pouvez-vous me le faire parvenir.Merci

user icon DROPS Design 24.03.2021 kl. 08:51:

Bonjour Mme Provencher, vous trouverez toutes les infos sur l'échantillon sous la liste des fournitures nécessaires, avec la taille des aiguilles proposées. Bon tricot!

country flag Mary 21.01.2019 - 22:11:

Thanks for helping.I’ve one more question .from wrong side should i follow as A.1B=1 stitch,then 6 stitches,then 1 stitch and then 6 sts and repeat it?

user icon DROPS Design 22.01.2019 kl. 08:33:

Dear Mary, yes that's correct, from WS work 5 sts in garter st, A.1B = 1 st, repeat the sts in A.1A (reading from the left towards the right), and finish with 5 sts in garter st. Happy knitting!

country flag Mary 20.01.2019 - 19:42:

Hi,i’m working on M size,inc 5 row although numb of stitches are correct but design dont come correct. i follow design from right side to left and purl design from left side to right.what im doing wrong dont know 😩

user icon DROPS Design 21.01.2019 kl. 12:16:

Dear Mary, on 5th increase row repeat is now worked over 6 sts, you have now 299 sts and work as follows: 5 front band sts, repeat A.1A a total of times, work A.1B and 5 front band sts = 5+ (6 sts x 48) + 1 +5 = 299 sts. Happy knitting!

Maryyam 15.12.2018 - 23:10:

Hello,i am very much intressted to know about the diagram A.1Afor M size.After elivation should i repeat from left side of diagram with A.1B (1 stitch)and continue with 4 stitched of A.1,mean total 5 stitches on this round? and on next line continue with 4 stitches A.1A from right side of the diagram?

user icon DROPS Design 17.12.2018 kl. 09:58:

Dear Maryyam, you will work A.1 from RS like this: 5 front band sts, repeat A.1A a total of 26 times, then work A.1B (= 1 st) and finish with 5 front band sts. From WS, work then A.1B and A.1A reading diagram from the left towards theh right. Happy knitting!

country flag Pata Corine 20.11.2018 - 09:36:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas comment relever les 8 mailles sous la manche.

user icon DROPS Design 20.11.2018 kl. 11:30:

Bonjour Mme Pata, quand vous reprenez les mailles de la manche, relevez 1 maille dans chacune des 8 mailles que vous avez monté lors de la division de l'ouvrage pour séparer le dos/les devants et les manches. Cette vidéo montre (à partir du time code 9:37) comment procéder. Bon tricot!

country flag DROPS Design 06.02.2018 - 10:25:

Colour combinations shown are: A) DROPS Alpaca 607, 618, 2020, 7139, 2915, 2925, 6309, 2923

country flag Grethe Netland Dypvik 16.01.2018 - 14:28:

Hei,Hvilket garn kan jeg bytte i for å strikke BlackBerry fizz jakka.Vil gjerne strikke i pinne 3-4 men ikke i det alpakkagarnet som er i oppskriften.mvh Grethe

user icon DROPS Design 17.01.2018 kl. 08:03:

Hei Grethe. Du kan bytte ut Alpaca med andre kvaliteter vi har i garngruppe A, bare husk at du må ha samme strikkefasthet som er oppgitt i oppskriften. God Fornøyelse!

Maria 15.11.2017 - 12:18:

Was bedeuten die (24M) oder +(17M) an den Bildern.Ich kann das nicht verstehen da doch die Maschenanzahl in der Anleitung sind?

user icon DROPS Design 15.11.2017 kl. 13:20:

Liebe Maria, die Maschenanzahl an den Bildern ist die Maschenanzahl für 10 cm (meistens glatt oder kraus rechts gestrickt), "+" ist wenn mehr als 1 Wolle/Qualität gestrickt wird. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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