DROPS Baby / 29 / 10

Sweet Betty by DROPS Design

Set consists of: Hat for baby with garter stitch and toy pig with stripes. Sizes premature - 4 years. The set is knitted in DROPS BabyMerino.

DROPS Design: Pattern no bm-071-by
Yarn group A
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HAT:
Sizes: (premature) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Fits head size:
approx. (28/32) 34/38 - 40/42 - 42/44 - 44/46 (48/50 - 50/52) cm / (11 3/4") 14 1/4"-16''-17''-18'' (19''-20'')
Materials:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50 g in all sizes in color 05, light pink

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see the link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM / US 2.5 – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 48 rows garter stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM / US 1.5 for rib – or the size needed to get 26 stitches and 34 rows garter stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PIG:
Length approx. 42 cm / 16½''. Circumference approx. 35 cm / 13 3/4'' (without fill).
Materials:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100 g color 05, light pink
50 g color 01, white
+ a remnant color 19, gray for the eyes.

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see the link below.

DROPS NEEDLES AND DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM / US 1.5 – or the size needed to get 26 stitches and 34 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTON NO 523: 1 item.

ACCESSORIES: Wadding to fill.
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INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

INCREASE TIP (for the pig):
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row, knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.

STRIPES (for the pig):
* 4 rows stockinette stitch with white, 4 rows stockinette stitch with light pink *, repeat from *-*.

DECREASE TIP-1 (for the pig):
Start 2 stitches before the marker thread and knit 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased).

DECREASE TIP-2 (for the pig):
Decrease as follows after the marker: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over.
Decrease as follows before the marker: Knit 2 together.
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HAT:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles. Loosely cast on (68) 80-92-96-104 (112-116) stitches with double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and Baby Merino. Work rib (= knit 2/ purl 2) for (2) 3-3-4-4 (5-5) cm / (3/4") 1"-1"-1½"-1½" (2"-2"). Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 and knit 1 round and decrease 8 stitches evenly on round = (60) 72-84-88-96 (104-108) stitches. Continue with GARTER STITCH – see description above. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When the piece measures (11) 11-12-13-14 (14-15) cm / (4½") 4½"-4 3/4"-5"-5½" (5½"-6") – adjust so that the next round is a round of knit, decrease (6) 8-7-8-8 (8-9) stitches evenly on round. Decrease in this way every 2nd round (5) 5-5-5-5 (6-6) more times = (24) 24-42-40-48 (48-45) stitches. On the next round of knit, knit all the stitches together 2 and 2. Purl 1 round and repeat the decreases on the next round of knit in sizes 6/9, 12/18 months and (2 - 3/4) years (do not decrease any more stitches in the other sizes) = (12) 12-11-10-12 (12-12) stitches.
Thread a double strand through the remaining stitches and fasten well.
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PIG:
The piece is worked back and forth on the needle from the snout backwards.
Legs, ears and tale are worked separately and sewn onto the body at the end.

SNOUT AND HEAD:
Cast on 6 stitches with needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and light pink.
NOTE: The outermost stitch in each side is knitted on every row to finished length (= edge stitch).
ROW 1 (= wrong side): READ INCREASE TIP! Knit 1, * 1 yarn over, purl 1 *, repeat from *-* 3 more times, 1 yarn over, knit 1 = 11 stitches.
ROW 2 (= right side): Knit.
ROW 3: Knit 1, * 1 yarn over, purl 1 *, repeat from *-* 8 more times, 1 yarn over, knit 1 = 21 stitches.
ROW 4: Knit.
ROW 5: Knit 1, * 1 yarn over, purl 1 *, repeat from *-* 18 more times, 1 yarn over, knit 1 = 41 stitches.
ROW 6: Knit.
ROW 7: Knit. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
ROWS 8-9: Work stockinette stitch.
ROW 10: Knit 1, * knit 3, knit 2 together *, repeat from *-* 6 more times, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 1 = 33 stitches.
ROWS 11-13: Work stockinette stitch.
ROW 14: Knit 1, * knit 4, knit 2 together *, repeat from *-* 4 more times, knit 2 = 28 stitches.
ROWS 15-20: Work stockinette stitch.
ROW 21: Knit 1, purl 10, 1 yarn over, purl 6, 1 yarn over, purl 10, knit 1 = 30 stitches.
ROW 22: Knit.
ROW 23: Knit 1, purl 11, 1 yarn over, purl 6, 1 yarn over, purl 11, knit 1 = 32 stitches.
ROW 24: Knit.
ROW 25: Knit 1, purl 12, 1 yarn over, purl 6, 1 yarn over, purl 12, knit 1 = 34 stitches.
ROW 26: Knit.
Continue the increases in this way until there are 40 stitches on the needle. Continue working as follows:
ROW 32: Knit.
ROW 33: Knit 1, 1 yarn over, purl 16, 1 yarn over, purl 6, 1 yarn over, purl 16, 1 yarn over, knit 1 = 44 stitches.
ROW 34: Knit.
ROW 35: Knit 1, purl 18, 1 yarn over, purl 6, 1 yarn over, purl 18, knit 1 = 46 stitches.
ROW 36: Knit.
Continue the increases in this way, i.e. increase 2 stitches in the middle of the piece every 2nd row and 1 stitch in each side inside 1 edge stitch every 4th row until there are 92 stitches on the needle. Insert 1 marker.

BODY:
Continue back and forth on the needle. Work 2 cm / 3/4'' stockinette stitch with light pink (from the marker). Then work STRIPES – see description above, until the piece measures approx. 21 cm / 8 1/4'' from the marker (finish with 1 stripe light pink).
Insert 6 marker threads in the piece from the right side (without working the stitches):
First marker thread is inserted after the first 16 stitches on the row, then insert the next 5 marker threads with 15 stitches between each one (after the last marker thread, there is 1 stitch left on the row).
The piece is now finished in stockinette stitch with light pink as follows:
On the first row from the right side decrease 1 stitch before all the marker threads – READ DECREASE TIP-1 (= 6 stitches decreased). Decrease in this way every 2nd row 8 more times = 38 stitches.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: knit 1, knit 2 and 2 stitches together until there is 1 stitch left on the row, finish with knit 1 = 20 stitches.
Work 3 rows stockinette stitch and repeat the decreases 1 more time = 11 stitches.
Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, pull tight and fasten.

ASSEMBLY:
Embroider eyes onto the pig – see photo. Sew the pig together all the way from the snout backwards – sew in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch, but leave a small opening to fill through. Fill the pig with wadding and sew up the opening.

LEG:
The piece is worked back and forth on the needle.
Cast on 6 stitches with needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and light pink.
ROW 1 (= wrong side): Knit 1, * 1 yarn over, purl 1 *, repeat from *-* 3 more times, 1 yarn over, knit 1 = 11 stitches.
ROW 2 (and each row from the right side): Knit.
ROW 3: Knit 1, * 1 yarn over, purl 1 *, repeat from *-* 8 more times, 1 yarn over, knit 1 = 21 stitches.
ROWS 4-6: Work stockinette stitch.
ROW 7: Knit 1, 1 yarn over, purl until there is 1 stitch left on the row, 1 yarn over, knit 1.
ROW 8: Knit.
Repeat rows 7 and 8 until there are 27 stitches on the row.
Knit 1 row from the right side with white. Change to 2 strands of white and work 4 rows of rib (= knit 1/ purl 1) with 1 edge stitch knit in each side, before binding off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Work a total of 4 legs. Sew the leg seams in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch. Fill each leg with wadding and sew the legs to the underside of the pig. The front legs are positioned approx. where the stripes start up by the neck, with approx. 3-4 cm / 1"-1½'' between each leg. The back legs are positioned approx, 3-4 cm / 1"-1½'' before the decreases on the pig start.

EAR:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles bottom up.
Cast on 6 stitches with double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and light pink (divide the stitches between 2 double pointed needles so that there are 3 stitches on each needle and you work with the 3rd needle).
ROUND 1: * Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1 *, repeat from *-* 1 more time = 10 stitches.
ROUND 2: Knit.
ROUND 3: * Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 3, 1 yarn over, knit 1 *, repeat from *-* 1 more time = 14 stitches.
ROUND 4: Knit.
ROUND 5: * Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 5, 1 yarn over, knit 1 *, repeat from *-* 1 more time = 18 stitches.
ROUND 6: Knit.
Continue the increases in this way every 2nd round until there are 38 stitches on the round. Work stockinette stitch in the round until the ear measures 9 cm / 3½''. Insert 1 marker in each side (i.e. between 2 knitted stitches in each side). Continue by decreasing 1 stitch on each side of both markers – READ DECREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease in this way every 2nd round 3 more times = 22 stitches.
The next round is worked as follows: * Knit together the next 10 stitches 2 and 2, knit 1 *, repeat from *-* 1 more time = 12 stitches. Knit 1 round, then bind off all stitches. Use a needle to baste the opening at the cast-on edge at the bottom of the ear. Work 1 more ear in the same way and sew the ears on to the pink area on top of the head (there should be approx. 7 cm / 2¾'' between the ears on top of the head) – see photo if required.

TAIL:
Cast on 20 stitches with needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and 2 strands light pink. Work 2 stitches in each stitch = 40 stitches. Loosely bind off, cut the strand and sew the tail on to the back of the pig.

COLLAR:
Cast on 65 stitches with needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and 2 strands white.
The first row is worked as follows from the right side: Knit 1 edge stitch, * knit 1, purl 1 *, repeat from *-* until there are 2 stitches left on the row and finish with knit 1 and knit 1 edge stitch. Continue rib in this way until the collar measures 2 cm / 3/4'', bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Place the collar around the pig’s neck right behind the ears, place it with a small overlap on the top of the pig and fasten with a few stitches. Sew a button on to the collar for decoration.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 29-10) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (9)

Teresa Muto 03.04.2020 - 18:59:

Salve, cosa si intende con "1 maglia a ogni lato prima/dopo la maglia di vivagno ogni 4 ferri"? lavoro prima la maglia di vivagno e poi faccio l'aumento o a inizio ferro faccio l'aumento e poi la maglia di vivagno?

DROPS Design 03.04.2020 kl. 19:21:

Buonasera Teresa, lavorare l'aumento dopo la maglia di vivagno all'inizio del ferro e prima della maglia di vivagno alla fine del ferro. Buon lavoro!

Suna 17.01.2020 - 21:20:

Mit wieviel Maschen muss ich die Mütze beginnen wenn ich es für ein Baby 2 monate stricken will L.g

DROPS Design 20.01.2020 kl. 08:09:

Liebe Suna, Sie können die Größe je nach der Größe oder je nach der Kopfumgang wählen, z.B. in der Größe 1/3 Monate (3. Größe) fängt die Mütze mit 92 Maschen an. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Rosamaria Cellerino 01.12.2019 - 16:25:

Desidero ringraziarvi per il vostro meraviglioso sito! Per la vostra chiarezza e numerosissimi argomenti! È la mia passione. Spero presto di acquistare Drops baby Merino!Rose.

Lizeth 08.07.2019 - 11:19:

Klopt de beschrijving van maat 1-3 maanden van het mutsje wel? Na de minderingen (6x 7 steken) kom je inderdaad op 42 steken, maar als ik dan 1x 2 aan 2 samenbrei, kom ik toch echt op 21 steken en niet op 11, zoals er staat. Ik heb gewoon de dubbele draad door die 21 steken gehaald, maar hij is bovenop daardoor wel wat bobbeliger dan bij de maten die ik eerst gebreid had (0-1 en 6-9 maanden). Ik aarzel of ik het uithaal en nog een ronde minderingen moet doen. Uw advies graag

DROPS Design 12.07.2019 kl. 08:45:

Dag Lizeth,

Als je 42 steken hebt en alle steken 2 aan 2 samenbreit, heb je inderdaad 21 steken. Dan brei je nog 1 naald averecht en brei je opnieuw de steken 2 aan 2 samen. Je hebt dan ongeveer 11 steken. (het precieze aantal steken steekt dan niet meer zou nauw, want je rijgt een draad door de steken en trekt de draad aan om de muts dicht te maken.)

Lizeth 22.11.2018 - 13:08:

Dank u voor het antwoord. Ik schrijf het in mijn notitieboek erbij voor een volgend mutsje (deze is al af ;-)

Lizeth 20.11.2018 - 14:43:

Goedendag, De vraag gaat over het mutsje. Ik zou graag een boord van 1 recht 1 averecht breien (i.p.v. 2r 2 av). Heeft dat effect op hoe strak de boord is, wordt de boord dan losser of strakker? Alvast bedankt voor uw antwoord. Vriendelijke groet, Lizeth

DROPS Design 22.11.2018 kl. 11:17:

Dag Lizeth,

Deze aanpassing kan je zonder problemen doen. Waarschijnlijk wordt de boord dan ietsje rekbaarder, maar blijft ongeveer dezelfde pasvorm houden.

Elin Backstrand 24.10.2018 - 19:08:

Öronen jag gjort får en mycket längre del utan ökning, ska inte örat vara totalt ca 9 cm? Gör isf att ökningar är lite mer än 3 cm, mellandelen bör göra det hela 7 cm för sista biten blir ca 2 cm. Gör man dem totalt 11 cm blir de jättelånga.

DROPS Design 30.10.2018 kl. 10:18:

Hej Elin, jo du skall fortsätta ökningen på var annat varv till du har 38 maskor, när du har det fortsätter du med örat till du har 9 cm. Sedan minskar du enligt mönstret. Lycka till :)

Vivi 28.05.2018 - 11:55:

Jeg lurer på pinne 1. Det står at det skal legges opp 6 masker, men at pinne 1 skal man starte med 1rett, 1 kast, 1 vrang. «1 kast, 1 vrang» skal gjentas 3 ganger. Betyr dette at det skal være 6 masker til dette og 2 masker til kantene? I tillegg står det på øketips at kastene skal strikkes på vrang på neste pinne. Men på pinne 2 står det rett strikk, skal det være rett og vrang her? Eller bare rett?

DROPS Design 06.06.2018 kl. 13:09:

Hei Vivi Det er 1 kantmaske i hver side, og disse strikkes rett. Det står at du skal gjenta *1 kast, 1 vrang* 3 ganger til = totalt 4 ganger. Av de 6 maskene du la opp strikkes derfor 1 rett, 4 vrang, 1 rett, med kast mellom = 5 masker økt og 11 masker på pinnen. På øketips står det du skal strikke kastene vridd (ikke vrang) – dette for ikke å få hull. Da strikker du i bakerste maskebue. Vedlagt ligger en video av hvordan å strikke kast vridd. God fornøyelse.

Anne 07.02.2018 - 10:13:

Volgens mij zit e een fout in het patroon van het varken. Bij het lijf moet je minderen van 38 naar 20 steken, maar als je de beschrijving zoals in het patroon volgt kom je uit op 21 steken (38-4=32, 34/2=17, 17+4=21). Hetzelfde geldt voor het minderen van 20 naar 11 steken.

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