DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 2.00 £ /50g

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DROPS Buttons
Arched (white) No. 521

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Lucky Ducky

Jumper with short sleeves, raglan and pocket worked top down in DROPS Belle. For baby and children in sizes 0 to 6 years.

DROPS Children 28-6
DROPS Design: Pattern no vs-004-bn
Yarn group B
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Sizes: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4 - 5/6 years)
Sizes in cm: 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104 - 110/116)
Materials:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
150-150-150 (200-200-200) g colour 04, dandelion

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 or 60 cm) SIZE 3.5 MM – or the size needed to get 22 stitches x 30 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 or 60 cm) SIZE 3 MM – for garter stitch edges.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 521: 4 items in all sizes.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all the rows in the pattern from the right side.

INCREASE TIP:
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 62 stitches), minus the bands (e.g. 8 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 14) = 3.9. In this example, you increase after approx. each 4th stitch and do not increase over the bands. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on the next row purl the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.

RAGLAN:
All increases are worked from the right side! Increase 1 stitch on each side of A.1 in each transition between body and sleeves. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased in each raglan line). On the next row/round work the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes – the increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch.

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for the buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). 1 buttonhole = Work from the right side until there are 3 stitches left on the needle, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and finish with knit 1. On the next row knit the yarn overs so that there are holes. The first buttonhole is made on the first row from the right side after the garter stitch edge on the neck. Then work the next 3 buttonholes with approx. 2-2-2-3-3-3 cm between each.

DECREASE TIP (for mid under the sleeve):
Start 3 stitches before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over (= 2 stitches decreased).
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JUMPER:
The piece is worked top down. Work back and forth with circular needle from mid front until the buttonhole band is finished, then work the rest of the body in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on 62-66-66 (66-70-70) stitches (including 4 band stitches in each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 3 mm and Belle. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 14 stitches evenly on row in all sizes – READ INCREASE TIP and remember BUTTONHOLE on the band – see description above = 76-80-80 (80-84-84) stitches.
The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side: 4 band stitches in garter stitch, 5-6-6 (6-7-7) stitches purl (= right front piece), A.1 (= 8 stitches), 6 stitches purl (= right sleeve), A.1 (= 8 stitches), 14-16-16 (16-18-18) stitches purl (= back piece), A.1 (= 8 stitches), 6 stitches purl (= left sleeve), A.1 (= 8 stitches), 5-6-6 (6-7-7) stitches purl and 4 band stitches in garter stitch (= left front piece). Continue work stocking stitch with 4 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front and A.1 in each transition between body and sleeves. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side, start increasing to RAGLAN – see description above (= 8 stitches increased). Increase to raglan every 2nd row/round a total of 12-14-16 (18-18-20) times.
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 8-9-10 (11-12-13) cm from the cast-on edge mid front (the piece measures approx. 12-13-14 (15-16-17) cm from the shoulder and down) the buttonhole bands end. Insert a marker thread in the middle of A.1 in the transition between the left front piece and left sleeve (seen from the right side in knitting direction) and work as follows from the right side: Cast off the first 4 stitches at the beginning of the row. Now work in stocking stitch in the round over all stitches and A.1 in each raglan line as before (the increases for raglan continues on every 2nd round as before and the 4 stitches that where cast of should be under the button band).

After the last increase to raglan there are 168-188-204 (220-224-240) stitches on the needle and the piece measures approx. 9-10-11 (13-13-14) cm from the cast-on edge mid front.

The next round is worked as follows: Work until marker thread, place the next 38-42-46 (50-50-54) stitches on 1 thread (= left sleeve), cast on 6-6-6 (6-8-8) new stitches on the needle (= in the side under the sleeve), work 46-52-56 (60-62-66) stitches stocking stitch (= back piece), place the next 38-42-46 (50-50-54) stitches on 1 thread (= right sleeve), cast on 6-6-6 (6-8-8) new stitches on the needle (= in the side under the sleeve) and work the remaining 46-52-56(60-62-66) stitches in stocking stitch (= front piece). Body and sleeves are continued separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 104-116-124 (132-140-148) stitches. Work stocking stitch in the round until the piece measures 12-13-14 (15-18-21) cm from the separation, i.e. approx. 24-26-28 (31-34-38) cm from the shoulder and down. Change to circular needle size 3 mm and work 4 RIDGES – see description above. Change back to circular needle size 3.5 mm and loosely cast off in knit. The piece measures approx. 26-28-30 (33-36-40) cm from the shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 38-42-46 (50-50-54) stitches from the thread in one side of the piece on to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and in addition knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6 (6-8-8) stitches which were cast on under the sleeve = 44-48-52 (56-58-62) stitches on the needle. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 6-6-6 (6-8-8) new stitches (= mid under the sleeve). Work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 1-1-2 (2-2-2) cm from the separation decrease 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – READ DECREASE TIP. Decrease in this way every 4th-4th-4th (6th-4th-5th) round a total of 2-2-2 (2-3-3) times = 40-44-48 (52-52-56) stitches. When the piece measures 3-3-4 (5-6-7) cm change to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Knit 1 round where you decrease 2-2-2 (4-4-4) stitches evenly along the round = 38-42-46 (48-48-52) stitches. Purl 1 round, knit 1 round and purl 1 round. Change back to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and cast off in knit. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Lay the left buttonhole band under the right and neatly sew together at the bottom of the bands. Sew the buttons on to the left band.

POCKET:
Cast on 14-16-16 (16-18-18) stitches with needle size 3.5 mm and work stocking stitch back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When the pocket measures 6-7-7 (7-8-8) cm change to needle size 3 mm. Work 2 ridges and cast off in knit. The pocket measures approx. 7-8-8 (8-9-9) cm.
Place the pocket on the left side of the front piece (see photo). Sew the pocket down with small stitches inside the 1 edge stitch.

Diagram

	= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
	= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
	= knitting direction

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Lucky Ducky

Ana, Spain

Comments / Questions (6)

Ana Lucia Oliveira wrote:

Os nomes dos pontos, linguagem difícil

01.09.2020 - 22:30

DROPS Design answered:

Relembramos que as receitas são escritas em português de Portugal. Confira as equivalências aqui: -------------------------------------------------------- NOTA: Existem termos diferentes de tricô e croché em português de Portugal e do Brasil. TRICÔ : Malha = Ponto Canelado = Barra Ponto Jarreteira = Cordões de Tricô Ponto Liga = Ponto Tricô CROCHÉ : mpa – meio ponto alto pa – ponto alto pad – ponto alto duplo pat – ponto alto triplo pb – ponto baixo pbx – ponto baixíssimo pc – ponto corrente Bons tricôs!

02.09.2020 - 12:11

Hanny wrote:

Voor maat 80/86 heb ik het lijf 5 cm. langer gebreid. Dat was echt nodig!

29.03.2020 - 20:24

Echt een heel leuk patroon!

29.03.2020 - 14:02

Kaia wrote:

Jeg kan ikke få oppskriften til å stemme. Hvordan kan jeg få 46 masker til bakstykket? Oppskrift Lucky Du ky modell vs-004-bn Hilsen Kaia

27.02.2020 - 22:49

Hei Kaia. Litt usikker på hva du mener og hvor det går galt hos deg. Om du strikker str. 1/3 mnd skal du ha 168 masker etter alle raglans økningene og så skal det strikkes frem til merketråden, sett 38 masker på 1 tråd (venstre erme), legg opp 6 nye masker og strikk 46 masker glattstrikk til BAKSTYKKET, sett de neste 38 maskene på 1 tråd (høyre erme), legg opp 6 nye masker og strikk 46 masker glattstrikk til forstykket. Om du fremdeles ikke får 46 masker til bakstykket, skrive en bedre beskrivelse på hva du mener er feil eller hvor det blir feil for deg, så skal vi prøve å hjelpe deg så godt vi kan. God Fornøyelse!

02.03.2020 - 10:35

Françoise wrote:

Bonjour je ne comprends pas comment on obtient une différence entre le devant et le dos en nombre de centimètres : "quand l'ouvrage mesure 8-9-10 (11-12-13) cm au milieu devant depuis le rang de montage (l'ouvrage mesure environ 12-13-14 (15-16-17) cm de hauteur totale depuis l'épaule), les bordures de boutonnage sont terminées. " ? Merci

14.03.2019 - 21:13

Bonjour Françoise, quand on tricote de haut en bas, le rang de montage correspond aussi bien à l'encolure devant/dos qu'aux épaules, l'ouvrage sera plié ensuite en double au niveau des épaules, et on aura donc une différence entre la hauteur tricotée et celle depuis l'épaule. Bon tricot!

15.03.2019 - 08:47

Deborah wrote:

Salve! Per quanto riguarda le diminuzioni, ogni 4 giri significa che devo farle tra la fine del quarto e l’inizio del quinto, o tra il quinto e il sesto, visto che sono a cavallo del segnapunti di inizio giro?

21.04.2018 - 00:49

Buongiorno Deborah. Aumenta all'inizio e alla fine del primo giro, lavora tre giri senza aumentare (secondo, terzo e quarto giro), aumenta all'inizio e alla fine del quinto giro. Buon lavoro!

21.04.2018 - 09:28