Lucky Ducky by DROPS Design

Jumper with short sleeves, raglan and pocket worked top down in DROPS Belle. For baby and children in sizes 0 to 6 years.

DROPS Design: Pattern no vs-004-bn
Yarn group B
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Sizes: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4 - 5/6 years)
Sizes in cm: 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104 - 110/116)
Materials:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
150-150-150 (200-200-200) g colour 04, dandelion

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 or 60 cm) SIZE 3.5 MM – or the size needed to get 22 stitches x 30 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 or 60 cm) SIZE 3 MM – for garter stitch edges.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 521: 4 items in all sizes.
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53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 1.65 £ /50g
DROPS Belle uni colour DROPS Belle uni colour 1.65 £ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all the rows in the pattern from the right side.

INCREASE TIP:
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 62 stitches), minus the bands (e.g. 8 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 14) = 3.9. In this example, you increase after approx. each 4th stitch and do not increase over the bands. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on the next row purl the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.

RAGLAN:
All increases are worked from the right side! Increase 1 stitch on each side of A.1 in each transition between body and sleeves. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased in each raglan line). On the next row/round work the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes – the increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch.

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for the buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). 1 buttonhole = Work from the right side until there are 3 stitches left on the needle, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and finish with knit 1. On the next row knit the yarn overs so that there are holes. The first buttonhole is made on the first row from the right side after the garter stitch edge on the neck. Then work the next 3 buttonholes with approx. 2-2-2-3-3-3 cm between each.

DECREASE TIP (for mid under the sleeve):
Start 3 stitches before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over (= 2 stitches decreased).
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JUMPER:
The piece is worked top down. Work back and forth with circular needle from mid front until the buttonhole band is finished, then work the rest of the body in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on 62-66-66 (66-70-70) stitches (including 4 band stitches in each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 3 mm and Belle. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 14 stitches evenly on row in all sizes – READ INCREASE TIP and remember BUTTONHOLE on the band – see description above = 76-80-80 (80-84-84) stitches.
The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side: 4 band stitches in garter stitch, 5-6-6 (6-7-7) stitches purl (= right front piece), A.1 (= 8 stitches), 6 stitches purl (= right sleeve), A.1 (= 8 stitches), 14-16-16 (16-18-18) stitches purl (= back piece), A.1 (= 8 stitches), 6 stitches purl (= left sleeve), A.1 (= 8 stitches), 5-6-6 (6-7-7) stitches purl and 4 band stitches in garter stitch (= left front piece). Continue work stocking stitch with 4 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front and A.1 in each transition between body and sleeves. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side, start increasing to RAGLAN – see description above (= 8 stitches increased). Increase to raglan every 2nd row/round a total of 12-14-16 (18-18-20) times.
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 8-9-10 (11-12-13) cm from the cast-on edge mid front (the piece measures approx. 12-13-14 (15-16-17) cm from the shoulder and down) the buttonhole bands end. Insert a marker thread in the middle of A.1 in the transition between the left front piece and left sleeve (seen from the right side in knitting direction) and work as follows from the right side: Cast off the first 4 stitches at the beginning of the row. Now work in stocking stitch in the round over all stitches and A.1 in each raglan line as before (the increases for raglan continues on every 2nd round as before and the 4 stitches that where cast of should be under the button band).

After the last increase to raglan there are 168-188-204 (220-224-240) stitches on the needle and the piece measures approx. 9-10-11 (13-13-14) cm from the cast-on edge mid front.

The next round is worked as follows: Work until marker thread, place the next 38-42-46 (50-50-54) stitches on 1 thread (= left sleeve), cast on 6-6-6 (6-8-8) new stitches on the needle (= in the side under the sleeve), work 46-52-56 (60-62-66) stitches stocking stitch (= back piece), place the next 38-42-46 (50-50-54) stitches on 1 thread (= right sleeve), cast on 6-6-6 (6-8-8) new stitches on the needle (= in the side under the sleeve) and work the remaining 46-52-56(60-62-66) stitches in stocking stitch (= front piece). Body and sleeves are continued separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 104-116-124 (132-140-148) stitches. Work stocking stitch in the round until the piece measures 12-13-14 (15-18-21) cm from the separation, i.e. approx. 24-26-28 (31-34-38) cm from the shoulder and down. Change to circular needle size 3 mm and work 4 RIDGES – see description above. Change back to circular needle size 3.5 mm and loosely cast off in knit. The piece measures approx. 26-28-30 (33-36-40) cm from the shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 38-42-46 (50-50-54) stitches from the thread in one side of the piece on to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and in addition knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6 (6-8-8) stitches which were cast on under the sleeve = 44-48-52 (56-58-62) stitches on the needle. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 6-6-6 (6-8-8) new stitches (= mid under the sleeve). Work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 1-1-2 (2-2-2) cm from the separation decrease 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – READ DECREASE TIP. Decrease in this way every 4th-4th-4th (6th-4th-5th) round a total of 2-2-2 (2-3-3) times = 40-44-48 (52-52-56) stitches. When the piece measures 3-3-4 (5-6-7) cm change to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Knit 1 round where you decrease 2-2-2 (4-4-4) stitches evenly along the round = 38-42-46 (48-48-52) stitches. Purl 1 round, knit 1 round and purl 1 round. Change back to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and cast off in knit. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Lay the left buttonhole band under the right and neatly sew together at the bottom of the bands. Sew the buttons on to the left band.

POCKET:
Cast on 14-16-16 (16-18-18) stitches with needle size 3.5 mm and work stocking stitch back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When the pocket measures 6-7-7 (7-8-8) cm change to needle size 3 mm. Work 2 ridges and cast off in knit. The pocket measures approx. 7-8-8 (8-9-9) cm.
Place the pocket on the left side of the front piece (see photo). Sew the pocket down with small stitches inside the 1 edge stitch.

Diagram

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
= knitting direction

Comments (1)

Deborah 21.04.2018 - 00:49:

Salve! Per quanto riguarda le diminuzioni, ogni 4 giri significa che devo farle tra la fine del quarto e l’inizio del quinto, o tra il quinto e il sesto, visto che sono a cavallo del segnapunti di inizio giro?

DROPS Design 21.04.2018 kl. 09:28:

Buongiorno Deborah. Aumenta all'inizio e alla fine del primo giro, lavora tre giri senza aumentare (secondo, terzo e quarto giro), aumenta all'inizio e alla fine del quinto giro. Buon lavoro!

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