DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Bay Shorts

Shorts knitted top down and with double moss stitch in DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk or Drops Safran. For baby and children in sizes 0 - 6 years.

DROPS Children 28-5
DROPS Design: Pattern no bs-009-bn
Yarn group A
Sizes: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4 - 5/6 years)
Sizes in cm: 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104 - 110/116)
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-100 (150-150-150) g colour 6235, grey blue

Or use:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-150-150 (200-200-200) g colour 06, denim blue

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 or 60 cm) SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows double moss stitch (A.1) on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.



Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
find alternatives

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Start mid back, work 54-58-62 (66-70-74) stitches stocking stitch, cast off 2 stitches, work 8 stitches stocking stitch (= mid front), cast off 2 stitches and work 54-58-62 (66-70-74) stitches stocking stitch. On the next round, cast on 2 new stitches over each of the two holes where the stitches were cast off.

See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in the pattern from the right side.

Work A.1 back and forth as follows: Start mid back and work 5-5-5 (7-7-7) stitches pattern, turn the piece, tighten the strand and work back 10-10-10 (14-14-14) stitches pattern. Turn the piece, tighten the strand and work 18-18-18 (24-24-24) stitches in pattern (adjust so that the patter fits on each side of back piece), turn the piece, tighten the strand and work back 26-26-26 (34-34-34) stitches in pattern. Continue in this way by working over 8-8-8 (10-10-10) more stitches each time the piece is turned 4 more times (= a total of 8 short rows). Then turn the piece and work pattern from the right side back to mid back.

Start 1 stitch before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, continue A.1 over the next 2 stitches as before (= mid front or mid back), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes - the increased stitches are worked in to A.1as you go.

DECREASE TIP (for the inside leg):
When the first stitch is knit: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
When the first stitch is purl: Purl 2 stitches twisted together.
When the last stitch is knit: Knit 2 together.
When the last stitch is purl: Purl 2 together.

The piece is worked in the round with circular needle from the waist and down. The legs are worked in the round with double pointed needles.
Cast on 120-128-136 (144-152-160) stitches with circular needle size 2.5 mm and BabyAlpaca Silk or Safran. The round’s beginning = mid back. Work stocking stitch for 3 cm. Work 1 round purl for the fold edge – THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE. Work stocking stitch for 1½ cm. On the next 2 rounds, work HOLES FOR THE TIES – see description above. Then continue with stocking stitch until the piece measures 3 cm from the fold edge. Change to circular needle size 3 mm and work ELEVATION BACK – see description above. When the elevation has been completed continue with A.1 in the round over all the stitches (make sure that the pattern fits over elevation when continuing). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the piece measures 10-12-14 (15-16-18) cm from the fold edge in the waist (measured mid front) insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round and 1 marker thread after 60-64-68 (72-76-80) stitches (= mid front and mid back of the shorts). On the next round, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased – NOTE: The increased stitches are worked into A.1 as you go). Increase in this way every 4th round for a total of 4 times = 136-144-152 (160-168-176) stitches. After the last increase, the piece measures approx. 14-16-18 (19-20-22) cm from the waist (measured from the fold edge mid front).

Start mid back and work A.1 over the first 68-72-76 (80-84-88) stitches as before. Place the remaining 68-72-76 (80-84-88) stitches on a thread. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm and continue A.1 in the round. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round = the inner leg. When you have worked 1-1-2 (2-2-2) cm decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread – READ DECREASE TIP (= 2 stitches decreased). Decrease in this way every 2nd -2nd -2nd (3rd-4th-4th) round a total of 4 times in all sizes = 60-64-68 (72-76-80) stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm when the leg measures 3-4-5 (6-7-7) cm (the decreases should now have been completed). Work 4 rounds stocking stitch, purl 1 round for the fold edge and 4 rounds stocking stitch. Change back to double pointed needles size 3 mm and loosely cast off. The leg measures approx. 4-5-6 (7-8-8) cm from the separation and down to the fold edge. Work the other leg in the same way. The complete length of the shorts is approx. 18-21-24 (26-28-30) cm from the waist and down (measured from the fold edge mid front to the fold edge down on the legs). 

Fold down the edge at the top of the shorts towards the wrong side and sew down, but make sure that the seam does not tighten.
Do the same at the bottom of both legs.

Cast on 4 stitches with double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and BabyAlpaca Silk or Safran. Work as follows: Knit 4, push the stitches to the beginning of the needle, tighten the strand at the back of the piece and knit 4 stitches. Continue in this way (the piece is not turned) until the tie measures approx. 100-120 cm. Cut the strand, pull it through the 4 stitches, tighten the strand and fasten well. Start mid front and thread the tie through the casting in the waist of the shorts.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 16.05.2022


symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = knitting direction

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (11)

country flag Brigitta wrote:

Guten Tag, mein Muster wird bei den Shorts, wenn A1 anfängt, schräg versetzt und nicht unterhalb. Woran liegt es? Zuerst habe ich mit Nadelspiel gestrickt, dann wieder neu angefangen mit Rundnadeln 3mm 60 cm. Beide Male erhalte ich ein schräges Muster, statt untereinander. VG

06.03.2024 - 10:17

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Brigitta, A.1 wird insgesamt 30-32-34 (36-38-40) Mal in der Breite/in der Runde gestrickt, so sollte es passen. Beim Übergang zwischen Ende/Anfang von den Runden, versuchen Sie das Garn etwas fester zu ziehen, damit die erste und die letzte Masche etwas mehr nebeneinander leigen. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

06.03.2024 - 11:50

country flag Lignon wrote:

Bonjour je cherche un modèle pour filles de 10 ans pour faire un short ou tricot. Merci d’avance.

06.12.2023 - 17:22

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lignon, retrouvez ici tous nos modèles de shorts et pantalons/leggins en 9/10 ans. Bon tricot!

07.12.2023 - 08:22

country flag Gabriele wrote:

Bei den Zunahmen vor der Teilung der Beine geht das Muster bei mir nicht auf! Bitte erklären sie mir doch die Strickweise. Dankeschön!!!

17.07.2022 - 23:33

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Gabriele, bis alle Zunahmen gestrickt sind, wird das Muster nicht mehr passen, da es über 4 M gestrickt wird, aber wenn alle Zunahmen fertig sind, sollte dann das Muster anpassen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

01.08.2022 - 10:37

country flag Jenni Virtanen wrote:

Tyhmä kysymys, mutta en millään ymmärrä miten saan helmineuleen jatkumaan lisättyjen silmukoiden jälkeen? 2 oikein ja 2 nurin menee väkisin sekaisin. Voisiko tätä vääntää rautalangasta?

22.04.2021 - 20:39

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, kun teet lisäyksen ole aina tarkkana, että neulot esim. 2 oikean silmukan viereen lisätyn silmukan nurin.

05.05.2021 - 16:57

country flag Chana wrote:

Hello, When you are measuring the moss stitch to get 18cm in the 5/6 size do you measure from the turning row or from the end of the stockinette? Is the waist band counted in the 18cm? Thank you.

19.12.2019 - 04:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Chana, you measure from the folding row (= the purled round after the first 3 cm stocking st); ie work A.1 when piece measures 3 cm from purled row (= 6 cm from cast on row), etc... Happy knitting!

19.12.2019 - 08:13

country flag Agathe Dufour wrote:

Est-ce que je peux faire ce modèle mais au point jersey?

06.06.2019 - 19:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Dufour. Bien sur, bon travail.

06.06.2019 - 20:09

country flag Gabriele wrote:

Hallo, meine Enkelin ist 3Jahre alt und hat einen Bauchumfang von 51 cm,( ist sogar eine Pummelfee). In ihrer Anleitung ist aber schon bei der kleinsten Größe,(1/3 Monate),ein Umfang von 50 cm angegeben. Kann das stimmen ? Liebe Grüße, Gabriele

16.05.2019 - 15:49

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Gabriele, gerne können Sie eine ähnliche Kleidung messen, diese Maßen vergleichen Sie dann mit den in der Maßskizze um die passende Größe zu finden. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

20.05.2019 - 13:33

country flag Rie Dyrmose wrote:

Kan heller ikke få mønsteret til at passe ved forhøjning bagved, nogen der har løsningen her??

07.05.2019 - 18:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Rie, Vi skal prøve at få lavet en video som viser hvordan man kan gøre.

08.05.2019 - 09:33

country flag Jose Suntjens wrote:

Ik kom er niet aan uit hoe dat ik de verhoogde kant moet maken in de gerstekorrel, dan klopt het patroon niet meer kunt u me dat verduidelijken? Dank.

23.02.2019 - 17:16

country flag Liv Gravdal Malmhaug wrote:

Enig med Marianne. Umulig å få mønster til å stemme ved mønster A1 ved forhøyning bak. Her må det rettes i oppskriften. Velger å strikke glattstrikk til forhøyning er ferdig.

20.02.2018 - 14:05