DROPS / 175 / 30

Grace in Lace by DROPS Design

Dress crochet from the top down with round yoke, lace pattern and short sleeves in DROPS Safran. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern no e-263
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
500-550-600-650-700-750 g color 50, ice blue

DROPS HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 - or size needed to get 21 double crochets x 12 rows = 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
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DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 2.35 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
LACE PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. A.2 shows how round begins and ends when working A.1 (A.2 is an addition to A.1, i.e A.2 replaces 1st stitch).

CROCHET INFO:
Begin every round with double crochets with 3 chain stitches ,finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round.
Begin every round with single crochet with 1 chain stitch, finish round with 1 slip stitch in 1st chain stitch at beginning of round.
2nd and 5th round in A.3 begins with 3 chain stitches, finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round.

PATTERN-1 (applies to body):
Work A.3. When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, work 5-6-8-9-10-11 rounds with 1 double crochet crochet in every double crochet crochet, then work A.3 one more time.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP:
To calculate how to increase/decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 258 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases/decreases to be done (e.g. 15) = 17.2. In this example increase after approx. every 17th stitch. If decrease, crochet approx. every 16th and 17th stitch together.

INCREASE TIP-1:
Increase 1 double crochet crochet by working 2 double crochets in same stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2:
Work until 2 double crochets/chain stitches remain before marker thread, work 2 double crochets in/around next double crochet crochet/chain stitch (= 1 double crochet crochet increased), work 1 double crochet crochet in/around each of the next 2 double crochet crochet/chain stitches, marker thread is in the middle of these double crochets/chain stitches, work 2 double crochets in/around next double crochet crochet/chain stitch (= 1 double crochet crochet increased). Repeat increase at every marker thread.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 double crochet crochet by working the next 2 double crochets together as follows: Work 1 double crochet crochet but wait with last pull through (= 2 loops on hook), then work next double crochet crochet but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook.
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DRESS:
Worked in the round from mid back, top down.

YOKE:
Work 146-146-155-155-163-163 chain stitches on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 with Safran and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch. Work first round as follows: Work 3 chain stitches - READ CROCHET INFO, 1 double crochet crochet in each of the next 5-5-0-0-1-1 chain stitch, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet crochet in each of the next 6 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 126-126-133-133-140-140 double crochets (including 3 chain stitches from the beginning of round). Then work A.1 in the round (= 18-18-19-19-20-20 repetitions of 7 stitches - A.2 shows how every round in A.1 begins and ends and comes in addition to A.1). REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! On last round in A.1 insert 8 marker threads and crochet as follows: Work as shown in diagram and increase as explained below – READ INCREASE-TIP 1: Work 29-29-31-31-33-33 double crochets and increase 0-0-0-1-0-0 double crochets evenly, insert 1 marker thread in piece, work 4 double crochets and increase 2-4-4-4-4-4 double crochets evenly (= right back piece),
insert 1 marker thread, work 42-42-44-44-46-46 double crochets and increase 0-1-1-2-1-1 double crochets evenly, insert 1 marker thread, work 4 double crochets and increase 2-4-4-4-4-4 double crochets evenly, insert 1 marker thread (= sleeve), work 58-58-62-62-66-66 double crochets and increase 0-0-0-2-0-0 double crochets evenly, insert 1 marker thread, work 4 double crochets and increase 1-4-4-4-4-4 double crochets evenly, insert 1 marker thread (= front piece), work 42-42-44-44-46-46 double crochets and increase 0-1-1-2-1-1 double crochets evenly, insert 1 marker thread, work 4 double crochets and increase 1-4-4-4-4-4 double crochets evenly, insert 1 marker thread (= sleeve), work 29-29-31-31-33-33 double crochets and increase 0-0-0-1-0-0 double crochets evenly(= left back piece) = 222-234-246-252-258-258 double crochets on round. Piece measures approx. 9 cm / 3½''.

Work 0-0-0-0-2-2 rounds with 1 double crochet crochet in every double crochet crochet and increase 0-0-0-0-12-15 double crochets evenly on each of the rounds – READ INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (= 0-0-0-0-24-30 double crochets in total) = 222-234-246-252-282-288 double crochets. Move marker threads upwards when working. Repeat A.3 37-39-41-42-47-48 times in total in width. On 2nd round (i.e. round with double crochets) increase at every marker thread – READ INCREASE TIP-2 and increase 2-8-8-8-8-8 double crochets evenly on round (= 2 double crochets increased at every marker thread and 2-8-8-8-8-8 double crochets increase evenly = 18-24-24-24-24-24 double crochets increased on round) = 240-258-270-276-306-312 double crochets. Now repeat A.3 40-43-45-46-51-52 times in width. Repeat increase on last round in A.3 (i.e. 2 double crochets increased at every marker thread and 2-8-8-8-8-8 double crochets increased evenly = 18-24-24-24-24-24 double crochets increased in total on round) = 258-282-294-300-330-336 double crochets.
* Work 1 round double crochets with 1 double crochet crochet in every double crochet crochet. Work 1 round double crochets and increase 18-18-16-17-24-26 double crochets evenly *, repeat from *-* 1-1-2-3-2-3 times in total = 276-300-326-351-378-414 double crochets. Work 0-1-1-0-1-0 rounds double crochets with 1 double crochet crochet in every double crochet crochet. Piece measures approx. 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm / 6¾''-7''-7½''-8''-8¼''-8¾''. On next round work as follows: Work 1 double crochet crochet in each of the first 39-43-47-51-57-64 double crochets (= half back piece), work 8 chain stitches, skip 60-64-69-73-75-79 double crochets from previous round (= sleeve), 1 double crochet crochet in each of the next 78-86-94-103-114-128 double crochets (= front piece), 8 chain stitches, skip 60-64-69-73-75-79 double crochets from previous round (= sleeve), 1 double crochet crochet in each of the last 39-43-47-51-57-64 double crochets (= half back piece) = 172-188-204-221-244-272 double crochets/chain stitches on round. Finish body and sleeves separately.

BODY:
Insert 1 marker on round – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE.
Work 1 round double crochets with 1 double crochet crochet in every double crochet crochet/chain stitch. Work 1 round more with 1 double crochet in every double crochet and decrease AT THE SAME TIME 4-2-0-5-4-2 double crochets evenly – READ INCREASE/DECREASE TIP and DECREASE TIP = 168-186-204-216-240-270 double crochets.
Now work PATTERN-1 - see explanation above. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 9-10-11-12-13-14 cm / 3½''-4''-4 3/8''-4¾''-5 1/8''-5½'', adjust so that next round is a round with double crochets, decrease 6-12-12-6-6-6 double crochets evenly = 162-174-192-210-234-264 double crochets. Continue pattern-1. When piece measures 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm / 7½''-8''-8¼''-8¾''-9''-9½'', increase 6 double crochets evenly - READ INCREASE/DECREASE TIP AND INCREASE TIP-1. Increase like this every 3rd round 12-12-12-12-14-14 times in total = 234-246-264-282-318-348 double crochets. When piece measures 49-51-53-55-57-59 cm / 19¼''-20''-21''-21 5/8''-22½''-23¼'' from marker (entire dress measures approx. 71-74-77-80-83-86 cm / 28''-29 1/8''-30 3/8''-31½''-32¾''-33 7/8''), work A.3 in the round. When A.3 has been worked, work 1 round double crochets with 1 double crochet in every double crochet. Then work 1 round single crochet with 1 single crochet in every double crochet. Fasten off. Dress measures approx. 76-79-82-85-88-91 cm / 30''-31''-32¼''-33½''-34 5/8''-35¾'' from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Sleeve is worked in the round, top down. Beg by working mid under sleeve as follows: Work 1 single crochet in the 5th chain stitch of the 8 chain stitches worked in armhole on body, work 3 chain stitches, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 3 chain stitches, work 1 double crochet in every double crochet over sleeve, work 1 double crochet in each of the remaining chain stitches under sleeve = 68-72-77-81-83-87 double crochets on round. Insert 1 marker mid under sleeve – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE.

SIZE S + M:
Work 1 round double crochets with 1 double crochet in every double crochet and decrease AT THE SAME TIME 2-0 double crochets evenly = 66-72 double crochets.

SIZE L + XL + XXL + XXXL:
Work 1 round double crochets with 1 double crochet in every double crochet and increase AT THE SAME TIME 1-3-1-3 double crochets evenly = 78-84-84-90 double crochets.

ALL SIZES:
= 66-72-78-84-84-90 double crochets. Work double crochets in the round with 1 double crochet in every double crochet until piece measures approx. 3 cm / 1'' from marker in all sizes. Now work A.3 in the round. When A.3 has been worked, work 1 round double crochets with 1 double crochet in every double crochet. Then work 1 round single crochet with 1 single crochet in every double crochet. Fasten off. Work the other sleeve the same way.

NECK EDGE:
Worked back and forth from mid back - NOTE: Work in the chain stitches where double crochets were worked, but do not work in the chain stitches skipped = 126-126-133-133-140-140 double crochets). Work 1 single crochet in each of the first 16-16-18-18-20-20 stitches, * 1 half double crochet in each of the next 3 stitches, 1 double crochet in each of the next 3 stitches, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 19 stitches, 1 double crochet in each of the next 3 stitches, 1 half double crochet in each of the next 3 stitches *, 1 single crochet in each of the next 32-32-35-35-38-38 stitches, repeat from *-* 1 time and then work 1 single crochet in each of the last 16-16-18-18-20-20 stitches. Work next round as follows:
Work 1 single crochet in each of the first 20-20-22-22-24-24 stitches, ** 1 half double crochet in each of the next 3 stitches, 1 double crochet in each of the next 3 stitches, * work the next 2 treble crochets together *, repeat from *-* 5 more times, 1 double crochet in each of the next 3 stitches, 1 half double crochet in each of the next 3 stitches **, 1 single crochet in each of the next 38-38-41-41-44-44 stitches, repeat from **-** 1 more times and finish with 1 single crochet in each of the last 20-20-22-22-24-24 stitches = 114-114-121-121-128-128 stitches. Work 1 round with 1 single crochet in every stitch. Fasten off.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 16.05.2017
Added more text under CROCHET INFO: 2nd and 5th round in A.3 begins with 3 chain stitches, finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round. AND chart A.3 is turned.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= chain stitch
= single crochet in stitch
= single crochet around chain stitch/chain space
= double crochet in stitch
= double crochet around chain stitch/chain space
= BOBBLE: Work 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around chain stitch ring, 3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch around same chain stitch ring
= work 6 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch in 4th chain stitch from hook, turn chain stitch ring (i.e. continue to work in the same direction), then work bobbles
= work 1 double crochet in double crochet but wait with last yarn over and pull through, work 1 double crochet more in same double crochet and pull last yarn over through all 3 loops on hook
= work 1 double crochet around chain space but wait with last yarn over and pull through, work 1 double crochet more around same chain space and pull last yarn over through all 3 loops on hook
= increase round - see explanation in pattern
= first round is not worked, it has already been worked, it only shows how next round should be worked in double crochets
= slip stitch
= crochet direction


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 175-30) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (57)

Fran Miller 07.10.2019 - 18:15:

On row 3 and 4 of diagram A3 do you start round with any chains? Is round 5 started with three chains and then you do chain, double crochet, etc? Corrections state work left to right for A3 so I am not sure about these rows.

DROPS Design 08.10.2019 kl. 09:54:

Dear Mrs Miller, diagram A.3 has been edited (turned means here that it was previously mirrored), so just work diagram as usal, every round from the right towards the left, and at the beg of row 2 and 5 (incl. the row with the star), start round with 3 chains, then start diagram (with 1 chain on row 2 and on row 5). Happy crocheting!

Fran Miller 28.09.2019 - 19:07:

In A3 the corrections state to start row 2 and 5 with 3 chains. Is row 2 in the chart the row after the starred row or the row that is the increase round? Also since both of these rows start with double crochet (since corrections say chart should be turned thus working from left to right) wouldn't you start with 3 chains anyway if you follow crochet info?

DROPS Design 30.09.2019 kl. 09:58:

Dear Mrs Miller, the starred row is not count as the first row in A.3, it only shows how to crochet the stitches from next row. Row 2 is the row after (starting with 1 cha, 1 tr...). And this row (as well as row 5) should begin with 3 chains (then work as shown in diagram, ie 1 chain, 1 treble, etc...). Happy crocheting!

Mo Cze 11.09.2019 - 11:15:

Leider scheitere ich schon am Anfang. Größe L, Anschlag 154 LM, 4 davon Anfang, dann 19 mal 1LM überspringen, 6Stb, häkeln. Dafür verbrauche ich 7LM*19 + 4LM =137LM und erhalte 6*19 =114Stb. Müssen pro Rapport 7 Stäbchen gehäkelt werden?. Dann erhalte ich 133 Stäbchen, brauche aber einen Anschlag von 156 LM. Ratlos?????

DROPS Design 11.09.2019 kl. 11:36:

Liebe Mo Cze, Sie häkeln 155 LM, 1 KM in die 1. Lm, dann 3 Lm (= 1. Stb über 1 Lm), und dann *1 Lm überspringen, 1 Stb in jede der nächstsen 6 Lm* (= 6 Stb über 7 Lm) x 22 = 1 + 132 = 133 Stb über 1 + 154 = 155 LM. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Isabel 31.07.2019 - 10:50:

INFORMACIÓN PARA LA REALIZACIÓN DEL TRABAJO, 1 punto alto en cada uno de los siguientes 5-5-0-0-1-1 puntos de cadeneta, *saltar 1 punto de cadeneta, 1  No entiendo en la talla L pone un punto alto cada 0?

Tina Kraus 30.07.2019 - 20:22:

I would like to make the dress longer. At what point could I add some extra rows and how much extra yarn should I allow? I’m going to crochet it in size small.

DROPS Design 06.08.2019 kl. 10:59:

Dear Mrs Kraus, we are unfortunately not able to adjust every pattern to every single request. For any further individual assistance, please contact your DROPS store - even per mail or telephone. Happy crocheting!

Lizanne 03.07.2019 - 13:22:

Hallo, ik heb een vraag over het pas gedeelte. Het gedeelte A3, toer2, staat dat ik 8 keer 2 stokjes moet meerderen? Hoe kom ik dan aan 24 stokjes gemeerderd? Moet dat niet 16 zijn, of zie ik het gewoon niet? Groetjes Lizanne

DROPS Design 08.07.2019 kl. 11:36:

Dag Lizanne,

Je meerdert 2 stokjes bij elke markeerdraad = 16 stokjes. Daarnaast meerder je ook nog 8 stokjes verdeeld op de toer, waardoor je op een totaal van 24 komt.

Sandra Sombrio Da Silva 06.04.2019 - 00:22:

Amo todos os trabalhos! e este vestido é um dos meus preferidos.Gostaria de me inscrever,mas não tem o Brasil na lista de Países

Julia 03.04.2019 - 18:17:

Hallo! Ich scheitere schon daran die passende Größe zu finden, da die Angaben der Maßskizze identisch sind, egal ob man cm oder inches auswählt. Dabei kann dies nicht möglich sein. 1cm ist nunmal nicht 1 inch. Beste Grüße!

DROPS Design 04.04.2019 kl. 09:22:

Liebe Julia, alle Maßen in der Skizze sind in cm - hier lesen Sie mehr über die Grössen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Aubry Frédérique 17.12.2018 - 13:46:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas bien les explications. par exemple, pour l'ampiècement, il est noté "crocheter 146-146-155-155-163-163 mailles en l'air" pour une taille S, je dois crocheter 146 ml ? est ce la même chose pour toutes les explications où il y a 6 chiffres qui se suivent ? je dois toujours prendre le 1er ? merci de vos lumières

DROPS Design 17.12.2018 kl. 14:23:

Bonjour Mme Aubry, en taille S, vous crochetez 146 ml (chaque nombre se réfère à la taille dans l'ordre indiqué, vous suivrez ainsi à chaque fois le 1er nombre). Au premier tour, vous crochetez ainsi: 3 mailles en l'air, 1 bride dans chacune des 5 mailles en l'air suivantes, *sauter 1 maille en l'air, 1 bride dans chacune des 6 mailles en l'air suivantes*, répéter de *-* tout le tour = 126 brides. Bon crochet!

Virginie 13.11.2018 - 19:09:

Bonjour, combien de pelote faut-il prévoir pour une robe taille S svp ? Merci

DROPS Design 14.11.2018 kl. 08:06:

Bonjour Virginie, vous trouverez la quantité nécessaire ainsi que le crochet et l'échantillon sous l'en-tête, soit 500 g DROPS Safran / 50 g la pelote = 10 pelotes en taille S. Bon crochet!

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