DROPS / 175 / 30

Grace in Lace by DROPS Design

Dress crochet from the top down with round yoke, lace pattern and short sleeves in DROPS Safran. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern no e-263
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: 
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
500-550-600-650-700-750 g colour 50, ice blue

DROPS HOOK SIZE 3.5 mm - or size needed to get 21 trebles x 12 rows = 10 cm in width and 10 cm vertically.
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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 1.15 £ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 1.15 £ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.50£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
LACE PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. A.2 shows how round begins and ends when working A.1 (A.2 is an addition to A.1, i.e A.2 replaces 1st stitch).

CROCHET INFO: 
Begin every round with trebles with 3 chain stitches ,finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round.
Begin every round with double crochet with 1 chain stitch, finish round with 1 slip stitch in 1st chain stitch at beginning of round.
2nd and 5th round in A.3 begins with 3 chain stitches, finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round.

PATTERN-1 (applies to body):
Work A.3. When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, work 5-6-8-9-10-11 rounds with 1 treble in every treble, then work A.3 one more time.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP:
To calculate how to increase/decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 258 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases/decreases to be done (e.g. 15) = 17.2. In this example increase after approx. every 17th stitch. If decrease, crochet approx. every 16th and 17th stitch together.

INCREASE TIP-1:
Increase 1 treble by working 2 trebles in same stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2: 
Work until 2 trebles/chain stitches remain before marker thread, work 2 trebles in/around next treble/chain stitch (= 1 treble increased), work 1 treble in/around each of the next 2 treble/chain stitches, marker thread is in the middle of these trebles/chain stitches, work 2 trebles in/around next treble/chain stitch (= 1 treble increased). Repeat increase at every marker thread.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 treble by working the next 2 trebles together as follows: Work 1 treble but wait with last pull through (= 2 loops on hook), then work next treble but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook.
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DRESS:
Worked in the round from mid back, top down.

YOKE:
Work 146-146-155-155-163-163 chain stitches on hook size 3.5 mm with Safran and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch. Work first round as follows: Work 3 chain stitches - READ CROCHET INFO, 1 treble in each of the next 5-5-0-0-1-1 chain stitch, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 treble in each of the next 6 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 126-126-133-133-140-140 trebles (including 3 chain stitches from the beginning of round). Then work A.1 in the round (= 18-18-19-19-20-20 repetitions of 7 stitches - A.2 shows how every round in A.1 begins and ends and comes in addition to A.1). REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! On last round in A.1 insert 8 marker threads and crochet as follows: Work as shown in diagram and increase as explained below – READ INCREASE-TIP 1: Work 29-29-31-31-33-33 trebles and increase 0-0-0-1-0-0 trebles evenly, insert 1 marker thread in piece, work 4 trebles and increase 2-4-4-4-4-4 trebles evenly (= right back piece),
insert 1 marker thread, work 42-42-44-44-46-46 trebles and increase 0-1-1-2-1-1 trebles evenly, insert 1 marker thread, work 4 trebles and increase 2-4-4-4-4-4 trebles evenly, insert 1 marker thread (= sleeve), work 58-58-62-62-66-66 trebles and increase 0-0-0-2-0-0 trebles evenly, insert 1 marker thread, work 4 trebles and increase 1-4-4-4-4-4 trebles evenly, insert 1 marker thread (= front piece), work 42-42-44-44-46-46 trebles and increase 0-1-1-2-1-1 trebles evenly, insert 1 marker thread, work 4 trebles and increase 1-4-4-4-4-4 trebles evenly, insert 1 marker thread (= sleeve), work 29-29-31-31-33-33 trebles and increase 0-0-0-1-0-0 trebles evenly(= left back piece) = 222-234-246-252-258-258 trebles on round. Piece measures approx. 9 cm. 

Work 0-0-0-0-2-2 rounds with 1 treble in every treble and increase 0-0-0-0-12-15 trebles evenly on each of the rounds – READ INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (= 0-0-0-0-24-30 trebles in total) = 222-234-246-252-282-288 trebles. Move marker threads upwards when working. Repeat A.3 37-39-41-42-47-48 times in total in width. On 2nd round (i.e. round with trebles) increase at every marker thread – READ INCREASE TIP-2 and increase 2-8-8-8-8-8 trebles evenly on round (= 2 trebles increased at every marker thread and 2-8-8-8-8-8 trebles increase evenly = 18-24-24-24-24-24 trebles increased on round) = 240-258-270-276-306-312 trebles. Now repeat A.3 40-43-45-46-51-52 times in width. Repeat increase on last round in A.3 (i.e. 2 trebles increased at every marker thread and 2-8-8-8-8-8 trebles increased evenly = 18-24-24-24-24-24 trebles increased in total on round) = 258-282-294-300-330-336 trebles.
* Work 1 round trebles with 1 treble in every treble. Work 1 round trebles and increase 18-18-16-17-24-26 trebles evenly *, repeat from *-* 1-1-2-3-2-3 times in total = 276-300-326-351-378-414 trebles. Work 0-1-1-0-1-0 rounds trebles with 1 treble in every treble. Piece measures approx. 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm. On next round work as follows: Work 1 treble in each of the first 39-43-47-51-57-64 trebles (= half back piece), work 8 chain stitches, skip 60-64-69-73-75-79 trebles from previous round (= sleeve), 1 treble in each of the next 78-86-94-103-114-128 trebles (= front piece), 8 chain stitches, skip 60-64-69-73-75-79 trebles from previous round (= sleeve), 1 treble in each of the last 39-43-47-51-57-64 trebles (= half back piece) = 172-188-204-221-244-272 trebles/chain stitches on round. Finish body and sleeves separately.

BODY: 
Insert 1 marker on round – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE.
Work 1 round trebles with 1 treble in every treble/chain stitch. Work 1 round more with 1 treble in every treble and decrease AT THE SAME TIME 4-2-0-5-4-2 trebles evenly – READ INCREASE/DECREASE TIP and DECREASE TIP = 168-186-204-216-240-270 trebles.
Now work PATTERN-1 - see explanation above. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 9-10-11-12-13-14 cm, adjust so that next round is a round with trebles, decrease 6-12-12-6-6-6 trebles evenly = 162-174-192-210-234-264 trebles. Continue pattern-1. When piece measures 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm, increase 6 trebles evenly - READ INCREASE/DECREASE TIP AND INCREASE TIP-1. Increase like this every 3rd round 12-12-12-12-14-14 times in total = 234-246-264-282-318-348 trebles. When piece measures 49-51-53-55-57-59 cm from marker (entire dress measures approx. 71-74-77-80-83-86 cm), work A.3 in the round. When A.3 has been worked, work 1 round trebles with 1 treble in every treble. Then work 1 round double crochet with 1 double crochet in every treble. Fasten off. Dress measures approx. 76-79-82-85-88-91 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Sleeve is worked in the round, top down. Beg by working mid under sleeve as follows: Work 1 double crochet in the 5th chain stitch of the 8 chain stitches worked in armhole on body, work 3 chain stitches, work 1 treble in each of the next 3 chain stitches, work 1 treble in every treble over sleeve, work 1 treble in each of the remaining chain stitches under sleeve = 68-72-77-81-83-87 trebles on round. Insert 1 marker mid under sleeve – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE.  

SIZE S + M:
Work 1 round trebles with 1 treble in every treble and decrease AT THE SAME TIME 2-0 trebles evenly = 66-72 trebles.

SIZE L + XL + XXL + XXXL:
Work 1 round trebles with 1 treble in every treble and increase AT THE SAME TIME 1-3-1-3 trebles evenly = 78-84-84-90 trebles.

ALL SIZES:
= 66-72-78-84-84-90 trebles. Work trebles in the round with 1 treble in every treble until piece measures approx. 3 cm from marker in all sizes. Now work A.3 in the round. When A.3 has been worked, work 1 round trebles with 1 treble in every treble. Then work 1 round double crochet with 1 double crochet in every treble. Fasten off. Work the other sleeve the same way.

NECK EDGE:
Worked back and forth from mid back - NOTE: Work in the chain stitches where trebles were worked, but do not work in the chain stitches skipped = 126-126-133-133-140-140 trebles). Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 16-16-18-18-20-20 stitches, * 1 half treble in each of the next 3 stitches, 1 treble in each of the next 3 stitches, 1 double treble in each of the next 19 stitches, 1 treble in each of the next 3 stitches, 1 half treble in each of the next 3 stitches *, 1 double crochet in each of the next 32-32-35-35-38-38 stitches, repeat from *-* 1 time and then work 1 double crochet in each of the last 16-16-18-18-20-20 stitches. Work next round as follows: Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 20-20-22-22-24-24 stitches, ** 1 half treble in each of the next 3 stitches, 1 treble in each of the next 3 stitches, * work the next 2 double trebles together *, repeat from *-* 5 more times, 1 treble in each of the next 3 stitches, 1 half treble in each of the next 3 stitches **, 1 double crochet in each of the next 38-38-41-41-44-44 stitches, repeat from **-** 1 more times and finish with 1 double crochet in each of the last 20-20-22-22-24-24 stitches = 114-114-121-121-128-128 stitches. Work 1 round with 1 double crochet in every stitch. Fasten off.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 16.05.2017
Added more text under CROCHET INFO:
2nd and 5th round in A.3 begins with 3 chain stitches, finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round.
AND
chart A.3 is turned.

Diagram

= chain stitch
= double crochet in stitch
= double crochet around chain stitch/chain space
= treble in stitch
= treble around chain stitch/chain space
= BOBBLE: Work 3 chain stitches, 1 treble around chain stitch ring, 3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch around same chain stitch ring
= work 6 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch in 4th chain stitch from hook, turn chain stitch ring (i.e. continue to work in the same direction), then work bobbles
= work 1 treble in treble but wait with last yarn over and pull through, work 1 treble more in same treble and pull last yarn over through all 3 loops on hook
= work 1 treble around chain space but wait with last yarn over and pull through, work 1 treble more around same chain space and pull last yarn over through all 3 loops on hook
= increase round - see explanation in pattern
= first round is not worked, it has already been worked, it only shows how next round should be worked in trebles
= slip stitch
= crochet direction


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 175-30) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (70)

Michelle 26.10.2020 - 18:10:

I'm having trouble with increase row after A1. I am making the XL size and can't seem to get it to add up to 252 total TC. First I am doing 31 TC with 1 inc = 32TC / 4 TC with 4 inc = 8 TC / 44TC with 2 inc = 46 TC / 62 TC with 2 inc = 64 TC / 4 TC with 4 inc = 8 TC / 44TC with 2 inc = 46 TC / 4TC with 4 inc = 8TC / 31 TC with 1inc = 32TC / Makes a total of 244 TC Can you please explain where I am going wrong? Thanks!

DROPS Design 27.10.2020 kl. 11:47:

Dear Michelle, it looks like you forget 4 TC + 4 inc = 8 there: 31 TC with 1 inc = 32TC / 4 TC with 4 inc = 8 TC / 44TC with 2 inc = 46 TC / 4 TC with 4 inc = 8TC / 62 TC with 2 inc = 64 TC / 4 TC with 4 inc = 8 TC / 44TC with 2 inc = 46 TC / 4TC with 4 inc = 8TC / 31 TC with 1inc = 32TC - you have now: 32+8+46+8+64+8+46+8+32= 252 TC. Happy crocheting!

Brigitte 21.08.2020 - 06:55:

Bonjour ,lors du rang 1 augmentation à la fin de A1 ,les augmentations se font au niveau des 4 mailles entre 2 marqueurs ? Merci

DROPS Design 21.08.2020 kl. 08:18:

Bonjour Brigitte, au dernier tour de A.1 vous placez les 8 fils marqueurs en crochetant les mailles indiquées entre les marqueurs, autrement dit, quand on doit crocheter 31 brides en augmentant 1 bride avant le 1er marqueur, vous aurez bien fait 32 brides avant de mettre le 1er marqueur - et ainsi de suite. Bon crochet!

Hollie 02.08.2020 - 16:36:

Hi, I am fairly new to crochet and this is the first dress i am going to make. I am just about to order the yarn. Can i double check i need to order 11 balls of the drops Safran to complete the dress? Thank you!

DROPS Design 03.08.2020 kl. 07:16:

Hi Hollie, Each ball is 50 g, so for size M you will need 11 balls. Happy crocheting!

Alexandra 04.07.2020 - 09:45:

Dobrý deň, práve som dokončila prvú sekvenciu vzoru A3 na sedle. Ďalej je v návode uvedené, že treba sekvenciu vzoru A3 znova opakovať (v mojej veľkosti M 43x) no na obrázku k návodu nie je vidieť ďalšiu sekvenciu A3, ale niekoľko radov DS (časť cez prsia). Vedeli by ste mi potadiť ako ďalej?

DROPS Design 04.07.2020 kl. 16:32:

Dobrý den, Alexandro! Sekvenci vzoru A.3 háčkujeme jen 1x (na výšku) - během práce ale přidáme oka, proto se změní i počet sekvencí v kruhové řadě. Po dokončení 1 celé sekvence vzoru A.3 se háčkují DS - viz pasáž mezi hvězdičkami. Hodně zdaru! Hana

Marie-Ange Daly 29.06.2020 - 22:23:

In the lace pattern description it lists see diagrams A.1 to A.6, there are no diagram A.4, A.5 and A.6

DROPS Design 30.06.2020 kl. 10:56:

Hi Marie-Ange. Sorry, it was a typing error that has now been corrected (it is supposed to be diagram A.1 to A.3). Happy crocheting!

Kloe 22.06.2020 - 06:15:

Hi! Do you turn your work at the end of each row or you just keep work it in the anticlockwise all the time? By the shape of the stitches (the shape V of the stitch) I've noticed in the video ''How to crochet A. 1 and A.2 in DROPS 175-30'' that you didn't turn your work. It is a mistake or not? I'm used to crochet by following where the V of the stitch is pointing. Do you have a wrong and right side? Thank you in advance!

DROPS Design 22.06.2020 kl. 08:50:

Dear Kloe, in this pattern you work in the round without turning - as shown in the video - but feel free to turn if you rather like to. Just check on a small swatch/sample if you need before starting. Happy crocheting!

Helene B 12.06.2020 - 20:57:

Bonjour, En taille S, au dernier rang de A.1, Il faut pour la manche droite augmenter de 2 m. derrière et 2 m. devant alors que pour la manche gauche il faut seulement augmenter d'1 m. derrière puis 1 m. devant. Est-ce normal ou est-ce une erreur ? Quelle augmentation dois-je faire dans les groupes de 4 mailles ? Merci beaucoup.

DROPS Design 15.06.2020 kl. 08:05:

Bonjour Hélène B, tout est bien juste ainsi, en plus des augmentations aux marqueurs, vous augmenterez à intervalles réguliers tout le tour - votre nombre sera juste à la fin de l'empiècement. Bon crochet!

Darlene 28.05.2020 - 01:51:

In the increase rows after A1...where do I place the markers and where do I place the increase stitched... I.e. stitch 42 double and increase one evenly... I am guessing I increase the one somewhere in the middle of the 42...?? But the stitch markers...do I place them at the increase stitch or at the end of the 42??

DROPS Design 28.05.2020 kl. 08:30:

Dear Darlene, you have to place the markers and increase as explained, ie when you work the 42 sts inc 1 stitch, you will insert the marker threads before and after you have worked these 42 sts + 1 inc - read here how to increase evenly in that case, you can increase in the middle of these sts. Happy crocheting!

Kati 19.05.2020 - 08:36:

Ich bin jetzt schon relativ weit vorangekommen ( etwa 35 cm Gesamtlänge) und mir fällt die Naht am Rückteil leider sehr auf. Sie verschiebt sich so sehr, dass ich denke, dass sie bis zum Ende einmal um das Kleid herumgehen wird, was es für mich untragbar macht :( gibt es dafür eine Lösung?

DROPS Design 19.05.2020 kl. 09:12:

Liebe Kati, fragen Sie Ihrem Laden nach ob sie so eine Technik haben - sonnst können Sie auch in Hin- und Rückreihen häkeln und jede Reihe mit 1 Kettmaschen enden, dh in Runden aber abwechslungsweise von der Vorder- und Rückseite häkeln. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

HenriikkaS 05.05.2020 - 11:57:

Hei, mitä tarkoittaa ohjeessa kohta "1 pylväs jokaiseen 5-5-0-0-1-1 seuraavaan ketjusilmukkaan"? Kiitos jo etukäteen!

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