DROPS Bomull-Lin
DROPS Bomull-Lin
53% Cotton, 47% Linen
from 3.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.15$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 176-25
DROPS Design: Pattern no. l-145
Yarn group C or A + A
Sizes: S/M - L/XL - XXL/XXXL
Measurements: Length before assembly: 112-121-130 cm / 44"-47¼"-51½".
Circumference of neckline: 69-72-75 cm / 27"-28½"-29½".
DROPS BOMULL-LIN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
350-350-400 g color 03, light beige

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24" or 32") SIZE 5 mm/US 8 – or the size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4" in width and 10 cm / 4" in height.


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


More like this:
Women Ponchoslace v-neck
DROPS Bomull-Lin
DROPS Bomull-Lin
53% Cotton, 47% Linen
from 3.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.15$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

The piece is worked back and forth like a scarf and is sewn into a poncho at the end.

Cast on 71-81-91 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and Bomull-Lin. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above, then work as follows – from the right side: A.1 (= 5 stitches), A.2 A (= 3 stitches), A.2 B across the next 50-60-70 stitches, A.2 C (= 8 stitches), finish with A.1.
REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Repeat the pattern in height. Continue in this way until the piece measures 43-49-55 cm / 17"-19¼"-21½". Insert 1 marker in the side of the piece, the bind-off edge will be sewn from this marker later. Continue to work with the pattern as before until the piece measures 112-121-130 cm / 44"-47¼"-51½". Bind off.

Sew the short side (= bind-off edge) together with the long side, from the marker and down to the cast-on edge. Sew in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch. The opposite long side now makes a tip mid front.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 21.02.2017
Diagram A.2 has been edited.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = slip 2 stitches as if to knit 2 together, knit 1 stitch, pass the 2 slip stitches over the knitted stitch
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (47)

country flag Sussie Rosberg wrote:

Vet inte vad jag gör för fel,jag har dragit upp arbetet 8 ggr nu. Rad 3,5,9,11 det är alltid på dessa rader det blir fel när halva ihoptagningen är mellan A o B Eller/och B och C Jag får bara inte ihop det oavsett om jag skjuter på mönstret eller stickar som det är där sista och första ihoptagningen blir en maska när jag repeterar B. Provar en gång till sen lägger jag ner.

20.02.2024 - 13:31

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Sussie, hvis du prøver at tænke på hele rækken, så på pind 3 har du altid 3 r imellem hver hulmønster. På pind 5 har du 2 hulm, 1rm, 2hulm, 1rm, 2hulm, 2r osv...

23.02.2024 - 13:11

country flag Susan Hoff wrote:

Hello! I am new to chart reading and am having trouble deciphering how to properly do the A.2 B repeat on rows 3,7,11, and 15. There are "knit 2 tog" stitches between A.2 A and A.2 B. Where do I start and end the repeat? Thank you so much for your time. Susan H.

27.10.2023 - 19:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Hoff, on row 3 for ex, work the last st in A.together with the first stitch B = this is now the new last st in A and the yarn over is now the first st in B; at the end of B, work tog the last st B with the first st next B / C; this is now the new last stitch B and the yarn over is the new first st next B/C. Same for all these row where the sts are worked together with the next stitch. Happy knitting!

28.10.2023 - 08:55

country flag Vanessa wrote:

This is my first ever chart! Why is A.1 shorter than A.2..? The shortness is making me so confused as the pattern instructions include A.1 from the beginning but comparing the charts makes it looks like it doesn't start until row 9, as that is where it lines up with A.2! Thank you 😊

26.10.2023 - 08:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Vanessa, different charts may have different lengths because the pattern is shorter. So A.1 is a 12-row pattern, which will start over after every 12th row. Meanwhile, A.2 is a 16-row pattern, which will be repeated vertically/ start over after every 16th row. They don't need to be aligned between themselves; A.1 are the edges of the piece and A.2 the rest of the poncho. Happy knitting!

29.10.2023 - 19:46

country flag Sheila wrote:

Hi. I’ve been working on this and I am almost halfway and still am confused on how to make the side piece that connects to the front. The diagram is showing it as an “L” shape but the directions tell me to make it as just a “l” shape. This would mean that the back goes straight across and not down to a point as the front goes. Am I missing something? Is there a view of the back once assembled? Do I make a separate piece and attach it ?

21.09.2023 - 15:59

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sheila, in this video we are showing how to sew this kind of poncho, ie you work a long band then one of the short side is sewn along the side of the long side. Hope it will help you. Happy knitting!

21.09.2023 - 16:58

country flag Sharon Hunt wrote:

Hello! I am knitting the 7th of 8 balls of yarn and the length is 96 cm. Will this be enough to get to the length stayed in the pattern? Am a chubby, short girl would that affect how long to make this? I would really hate to have to rip this our since everything else is going ok. I am also still confuse as to how this is supposed to be sewn.

26.04.2023 - 17:29

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Hunt, did you get correct tension in both width (17 sts = 10 cm) and height (22 rows = 10 cm)? If you need more rows for 10 cm, you might require more yarn. In this video, we show how to assembly such a poncho, this might help you. Happy knitting!

27.04.2023 - 08:06

country flag Sharon Hunt wrote:

Hi started making this poncho and bought 8 balls of yarn for the project. Am still making the largest size but the length of the small size. The yarn is still not enough. I have used up 5 and half balls and the length is 33.5 inches. This is really strange. Disappointing that yarn bought for the large is not enough for the small. Are measurements before or after blocking? Seems like I have to order more yarn to finish this. Am knitting to gauge. Ladies at the drops store is confused too

22.04.2023 - 15:57

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sharon, if the gauge matches the one in the pattern, then the quantities should be correct. The measurements are from before assembling. That is, it's the final measument of the rectangle right before you start to sew it. In any case, if you have 5.5/8 balls used and you are 3/4 of the garment done, you should have enough to finish. Happy knitting!

23.04.2023 - 18:29

country flag Sharon Hunt wrote:

Glad to report that I figured it out. The chart is correct and the problem was me. The pattern is a joy to knit once one figures it out.

08.04.2023 - 20:07

country flag Sharon Hunt wrote:

Hi! I have been working on this pattern for days now ripping and starting multiple time. I have inserted markers after each repeat and have colour coded Lines between a, b, c pattern. I have double checked after each pattern repeat to make sure that I have the amount of stitches between same. I have counted after each row to make sure I have 91 sts every time but twice now I have ended up with 1 stitch more on one row. Now am on row 11 and there is not enough stitches to complete this row.

08.04.2023 - 11:43

country flag Sharon Hunt wrote:

Hi! Just started this pattern and want to avoid making mistakes. I have done the first 5 sitiches of a1 and the first 3 stitches of a2a. Am about to begin a2b which is one over 70 stitches. What I have done so far is k2 together, yo k1 then yo sl1 as if to knit, k1 then pass slip stitch over the knit stitch. In the instruction for the chart it says Nothing about knitting a stitch after the first yo so this makes me a bit unsure and i don’t like to assume. Thanks.

04.04.2023 - 11:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sharon, yes, yarn overs are not worked one next to the other, you need to work a stitch in between them. In this case, there is a blank square between both yarn overs, so you need to knit 1 stitch between them. Happy knitting!

06.04.2023 - 23:42

country flag Josée Plamondon wrote:

Vous dites qu’il y a une correction mais lorsque je clic il n’y a rien qui apparaît Merci

07.05.2022 - 02:43

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Josée Plamondon. Ce diagramme a été déjà corrigé. Bon tricot!

08.05.2022 - 19:43