Dragon Heart by DROPS Design

Knitted shawl with stripes and tips in DROPS Delight and Kid-Silk.

Keywords: shawl, sideways, stripes

DROPS 176-28
DROPS design: Pattern no de-170
Yarn group A + A
----------------------------------------------------------
Measurements: Width at top: approx. 150 cm / 59'' Height: approx. 67 cm / 26½''
Materials:
DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100 g color no 02, plum/beige/heather
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50 g color no 01, off white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 – or size needed to get 20 stitches and 40 rows in garter stitch to get 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

-------------------------------------------------------

Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

Need help?
Print
- Pattern
- Photo

DROPS Delight
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide

from 2.75 $ /50g

Order

	DROPS Delight print	2.75 $ /50g Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd	Order

DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk

from 6.75 $ /25g

Order

	DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour	6.75 $ /25g Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd	Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

STRIPES:
* Knit 2 rows with Kid-Silk, knit 2 rows with Delight *, repeat from *-* until finished measurements.

----------------------------------------------------------

SHAWL:
Work piece back and forth on circular needle. The entire shawl is worked in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above.
Cast on 4 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Delight.
ROW 1 (= wrong side): Knit all stitches.
ROW 2 (= right side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 2, insert 1 marker thread before next stitch and move it upwards when working, 1 yarn over, knit 1 = 6 stitches.
ROW 3 (= wrong side): Knit all stitches, knit yarn overs from previous row twisted to avoid holes.

Then work according to diagram while working STRIPES - see explanation above. Switch to Kid-Silk and begin from right side as follows: Work A.1 over 4 stitches (marker thread is after the last of these 4 stitches), work A.2 over 2 stitches. Continue to work according to diagram A.1 and A.2 and REMEMBER STRIPES. When diagrams have been worked 1 time vertically, 4 stitches have been increased in right hand side of piece = 10 stitches on needle. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE

Continue to work according to diagrams A.1 and A.2 as follows: Work A.1 over 4 stitches, work until marker thread, work A.2 over 2 stitches. Continue to work diagrams like this, every time diagrams have been worked 1 time vertically, 4 stitches have been increased between marker thread and A.1. Work until diagrams has been worked 34 times in total vertically. Then work diagrams one last time vertically and on last row from wrong side bind off all the 146 stitches. There are 35 tips in left side, piece measures approx. 73 cm / 28 3/4'' along bind-off and approx. 140 cm / 55'' measured along marker thread. Fasten off.

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.

Updated online: 08.06.2017
Diagram A.1 has been updated.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

	= knit from right side
	= knit from wrong side
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, knit yarn over twisted on next row
	= stitch that is bimd off with knit on wrong side

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 176-28) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ).

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

2) What are the yarn groups?

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

8) What is a repeat?

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (22)

Nicole wrote:

Thank you so much! The mistake was all on me, I was using the wrong needle!! Its coming out so great!

25.11.2021 - 19:08

Nicole wrote:

Also, I know someone asked if 1 or 2 strands of the Kid silk was used and you said only 1. However, in the picture the white is showing up much more than in what I am making with the same yarn. Are you sure only 1 strand is used because the picture definitely looks like 2?

25.11.2021 - 04:49

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Nicole, yes we are sure :) The stripes you can see with natural are due to the lenght in colour natural of the yarn DROPS Delight, colour 02 - see also shadecard. Happy knitting!

25.11.2021 - 09:16

Nicole wrote:

I am almost done with the last row of the diagram for the first repeat and the part on the diagram for A.2 depicted by the colored in box. What does that part of the diagram mean? It reads : stitch that is bimd off with knit on wrong side. That does not make sense. Are we binding off those stitches?

25.11.2021 - 04:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Nicole, Yes, the black squares are stitches which are bound off with knit from the wrong side. Happy knitting!

25.11.2021 - 06:57

Kathi wrote:

"A.2 über 2 Maschen." Wird dann A2 nicht nur über 2 Maschen, sondern ständig zunehmend gestrickt? Das klingt in der Beschreibung nämlich anders. Dann ist mir jetzt klar, wie man am Ende auf die 10 M kommt. Danke!

05.03.2020 - 11:54

Kathi wrote:

Ich meine etwas anderes. In der Anleitung heißt es: "1. R: Alle M re str. ; 2. R: 1 M re, 1 Umschlag, 2 M re, 1 Markierung, 1 Umschlag, 1 M re = 6 M. ; 3. R: Alle M re str. [...] A.1 über 4 Maschen [...] , A.2 über 2 Maschen." In A2 nehme ich aber doch schon in der ersten Reihe des Musters 1M zu? Somit habe ich danach 7 M (s. Diagramm, 2. Reihe = 7 M). In A1 werden noch 4M zugenommen = 11 Maschen am Ende von A1 bzw. A2 statt 10 wie in der Anleitung.

04.03.2020 - 17:28

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Kathi, also das bedeutet hier, daß man bei der nächsten Reihe A.1 über die 4 ersten Maschen und A.2 über die 2 letzten Maschen strickt, und dann wird es so weitergestrickt und wie im Diagram zugenommen. Am Ende der 1. Reihe haben Sie dann (von der Vorderseite gesehen)4 M in A.1 und 3 M in A.2. Wenn Sie dann die Diagramme in der Höhe wiederholen, wird A.1 über die 4 ersten M gestrickt und A.2 über die 2 letzten Maschen gestrickt, aber ja genau, die Maschenanzahl in jedem Diagram wird wie gezeigt zunehmen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

05.03.2020 - 10:03

Kathi wrote:

Wenn ich in Reihe 4 A1 über vier Maschen stricke und dann A2 über zwei Maschen, dann muss ich einen Umschlag in A2 machen. Somit sind 7 Maschen auf der Nadel (4 für A1, Markierer, 3 für A2). Am Ende von A1/A2 habe ich dann 11 Maschen auf der Nadel. Es wird aber immer in der 1. Reihe A2 eine Masche zugenommen, somit stimmt die ganze Maschenzahl künftig nicht.

04.03.2020 - 15:57

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Kathy, bei der 4. Reihe haben Sie 5 Maschen in A.1 (es ist 1 Umschlag bei der 3. Reihe, nach der 1. Masche). Also 3. Reihe ist eine Rückreihe und wird so gestrickt: A.2 = 4 Maschen Rechts, Markierung, A.1 = 4 Maschen rechts = es sind 8 Maschen. Bei der 5. Reihe werden Sie 1 Masche in A.2 zunehmen (es wird in A.2 in jede Hinreihe zugenommen und in A.1 ab 3. Reihe und dann in jede 4. Reihe zugenommen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

04.03.2020 - 17:01

Angela wrote:

Verwendet man von Kid-Silk einen oder zwei Fäden?

16.10.2019 - 17:03

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Angela, nur 1 Faden Kid-Silk wird hier verwendet, dh die Streifen stricken Sie: *2 Reihen mit 1 Faden Kid-Silk, 2 Reihe mit 1 Faden Delight*, und von *-* wiederholen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

17.10.2019 - 09:46

BiBi wrote:

Merci pour ce très joli châle! J'ai de laine Drops Delight en violet/vert ( Purple-Green, No. 14). Quel couleur conseillez-vous pour la laine Drops Kid Silk pour réaliser un aussi joli châle? Pourriez-vous me donner deux alternatives? Merci beaucoup pour toutes vos idées et tous vos conseils! Cordialement, B.

31.03.2019 - 18:53

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Bibi, merci de bien vouloir contacter directement votre magasin DROPS, même par mail ou téléphone, on pourra vous conseiller la couleur exacte par rapport à vos préférences. Bon tricot!

01.04.2019 - 14:01

Knitmaur wrote:

Pattern works , trust it...I have a lovely Dragon Heart Shawl

20.02.2019 - 21:50

Monique Deraeve wrote:

Echt mooi maar kan je hem op 2 nld breien

30.01.2019 - 15:06

From the #dropsfan gallery

Dragon Heart

Céline, France

© 1982-2023 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.