DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 3.05 $ /50g

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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.45$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Golden Summer

Knitted jumper with lace pattern and raglan, worked top down in DROPS Belle. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 176-15
DROPS design: Pattern vs-035
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
450-500-550-600-650-700 g color 04, dandelion

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 60 or 80 cm / 16" and 24" or 32") SIZE 4 mm/US 6 – or size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm / 4" and 10 cm / 4" vertically.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Women Jumpers Swonchos a-shape assembly free asymmetric diagonal-knit lace raglan top down v-neck

DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 3.05 $ /50g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.45$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

INCREASE TIP SLEEVE:
Increase 2 stitches on each sleeve as follows:
Work A.2, make 1 yarn over, work in stockinette stitch until 7 stitches remain (= A.2), make 1 yarn over and work A.2. Knit the increase stitches twisted on next round (to avoid holes) and continue in stockinette stitch.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.13. See arrow for your size in diagram A.3.

DECREASE TIP:
Begin 2 stitches before stitch with marker thread and knit 2 together, work 1 stitch (= stitch with marker thread), slip 1 stitch knitwise, work 1 stitch, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.
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JUMPER:
Worked top down in the round on circular needle from mid back. On body increases are shown in diagram A.1 and A.3. On sleeves increase inside A.2 in each side.

YOKE:
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! Cast on 96 stitches in all sizes on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Belle. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. Then work as follows from mid back: 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, A.1 (= 15 stitches) (= half back piece), A.2 (= 7 stitches), 1 yarn over, 3 stitches in stockinette stitch, 1 yarn over, A.2 (= 17 stitches on sleeve), A.1, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (= mid front), A.1 (= 31 stitches in total on front piece), A.2, 1 yarn over, 3 stitches in stockinette stitch, 1 yarn over, A.2 (= 17 stitches on sleeve), A.1 (= half back piece). Continue with A.1 and A.2, AT THE SAME TIME increase 2 stitches on each sleeve – READ INCREASE TIP SLEEVE, increase every other round 21-26-31-31-30-30 times, then every 4th round 2-1-0-2-5-7 times. At the same time when A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically (there are now 55 stitches in every repetition of A.1) work as follows over stitches in A.1 (work the other stitches as before): Work A.3 over the first 4 stitches, A.4 over the next 48 stitches (= 8 repetitions of A.4) and A.5 over the last 3 stitches. Continue A.3, A.4 and A.5 upwards.

Work to and with round with arrow, see arrow for your size = 388-428-468-508-556-596 stitches on round. Work next round as follows: Knit the first 66-72-78-86-96-104 stitches (= half back piece), slip the next 63-71-79-83-87-91 stitches on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 5 new stitches under sleeve, knit the next 131-143-155-171-191-207 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 63-71-79-83-87-91 stitches on a stitch holder, cast on 5 new stitches under sleeve, knit the last 65-71-77-85-95-103 stitches (= half back piece).

BODY:
= 272-296-320-352-392-424 stitches on round.
Then work as follows: * 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, A.6 A (= 2 stitches), A.6 B over the next 32-38-44-52-62-70 stitches, AT THE SAME TIME increase 8-2-6-8-8-10 stitches evenly over these stitches, A.6 C (= 31 stitches), A.7 (= 5 stitches = in the middle of side), A.8 A (= 31 stitches), A.8 B over the next 32-38-44-52-62-70 stitches AT THE SAME TIME increase 8-2-6-8-8-10 stitches evenly over these stitches, A.8 C (= 2 stitches) *, work from *-* 1 more time = 304-304-344-384-424-464 stitches. Continue this pattern, work A.6 B and A.8 B over 40-40-50-60-70-80 stitches (= 4-4-5-6-7-8 repetitions in width). When A.6 and A.8 have been worked 1 time vertically, work as follows:

* 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, A.9 A (= 2 stitches), A.9B over the next 59-59-69-79-89-99 stitches, AT THE SAME TIME increase 1-7-3-5-1-3 stitches evenly over these stitches, A.9 C (= 12 stitches), A.7 (= 5 stitches = in the middle of side), A.10 A (= 12 stitches), A.10 B over the next 59-59-69-79-89-99 stitches AT THE SAME TIME increase 1-7-3-5-1-3 stitches evenly over these stitches, A.10 C (= 2 stitches) *, work from *-* 1 more time = 308-332-356-404-428-476 stitches. Continue this pattern, work A.9 B and A.10 B over 60-66-72-84-90-102 stitches (= 10-11-12-14-15-17 repetitions in width). When A.9 and A.10 have been worked 1 time vertically, work as follows:

* 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, A.11 A (= 2 stitches), A.11 B over the next 60-66-72-84-90-102 stitches, AT THE SAME TIME increase 12-6-12-12-6-6 stitches evenly over these stitches, A.11 C (= 12 stitches), A.7 (= 5 stitches = in the middle of side), A.12 A (= 12 stitches), A.12 B over the next 60-66-72-84-90-102 stitches AT THE SAME TIME increase 12-6-12-12-6-6 stitches evenly over these stitches, A.12 C (= 2 stitches) *, work from *-* 1 more time = 356-356-404-452-452-500 stitches. Continue this pattern, work A.11 B and A.12 B over 72-72-84-96-96-108 stitches (= 6-6-7-8-8-9 repetitions in width). When A.11 and A.12 have been worked 1 time vertically, bind off by knitting.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 63-71-79-83-87-91 stitches from stitch holder back on needle and pick up 1 stitch in each of the 5 stitches cast on under sleeve = 68-76-84-88-92-96 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread mid under sleeve (in the middle of the 5 new stitch cast on). Then work in the round on double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! When piece measures 3 cm / 1", decrease 1 stitch on each side stitch with marker thread - READ DECREASE TIP. Decrease every 6th-4th-4th-3rd-2nd-2nd round 7-9-10-10-10-10 times in total = 54-58-64-68-72-76 stitches. Work until piece measures 19-18-17-15-12-11 cm / 7½"-7"-6¾"-6"-4¾"-4½". Adjust number of stitches to 54-57-63-69-72-75, and work A.13 over all stitches. Bind off by knitting when A.13 has been worked 1 time vertically.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

	= knit
	= purl
	= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 and pass slipped stitch over stitches worked
	= 1 yarn over between 2 stitches, on next round knit yarn over
	= knit 2 together
	= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1 and pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
	= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 together and pass slipped stitch over the 2 stitches worked together
	= no stitch, skip this square

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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LNAHO, France

Comments / Questions (42)

Anette Korsgaard wrote:

Hej Jeg prøver lige igen BÆRESTYKKE: Opskriften siger: A.2 , slå om, _3 masker glatstrik_, slå om, A.2 (= 17 masker på ærmet) - Derefter forsætter mønstrene. Men hvad med "slå om, 3 masker glatstrik, slå om" - forsætter jeg med de tre masker mellem omslagene?

25.06.2024 - 18:12

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anette, de 2 omslag på ærmet bliver til retmasker (glatstrik), så når du har taget ud første gang har du 5 m glatstrik. Du tager altid ud indenfor de to A.2 på ærmet :)

26.06.2024 - 07:31

Opskriften sider: A.2 , slå om, 3 masker glatstrik, slå om, A.2 (= 17 masker på ærmet) - Derefter forsætter mønstrene. Men hvad med "slå om, 3 masker glatstrik, slå om" - forsætter jeg med omslagene?

22.06.2024 - 00:18

Hej Anette, det står øverst ved UDTAGNINGSTIPS ÆRME: Der tages 2 masker ud på hvert ærme således: Strik A.2, slå om, strik glatstrik til der er 7 masker tilbage (= A.2), slå om og strik A.2. De nye masker strikkes drejet ret på næste omgang (så der ikke bliver hul), og strikkes videre i glatstrik.

25.06.2024 - 13:38

Breige wrote:

Yes, I know the stitches are the same count for the entire row. I am talking about only the A part of the row which increases every other row. On row 25 it shows 16 stitches, on row 26 if shows 15 stitches? Then on row 27 it shows 17 stitches?

28.05.2024 - 16:13

Dear Mrs Breige, that might be because of the lace pattern, just make sure you get the same amount of yarn overs as you get decreases so that the total number of stitches remain the same. Happy knitting!

29.05.2024 - 07:53

Hello, Thank you for your timely answer to my last question, it was explained well. Now I am working A6. I have worked row 25 giving me 16 stitches on A - then on row 26 it shows 15 stitches? Then on row 27 it is back to the correct number of 17 stitches. Please help

27.05.2024 - 16:21

Dear Breige, since in row 25, 27, 29, 31 for each yarnover there is an accompanying decrease (or rather for two yarnover it has a double decrease a,d for one yarnover at the end of teh diagram there is a decrease) the number of stitches should NOT change in these rows. Please check your work, and see that for each increased stitch there should be a decreased stitch too. Happy Knitting!

27.05.2024 - 21:04

Louise Johansen wrote:

Super fin bluse ! Jeg er blevet færdig med de 4 omgange retstrik (96masker) men synes ikke rigtig det bliver som den hals som jeres model har på . Hendes er en bred/dyb V udskæring, men den jeg er igang med er meget mindre; altså kommer til at ligge helt op mod halsen Er der noget jeg overser ?

23.04.2024 - 12:00

Sorry my previous question was for Golden Summer Thanks

23.04.2024 - 08:03

See answer below :)

23.04.2024 - 08:21

How do I knit row 8 on diagram A5 Thank you

23.04.2024 - 07:26

Dear Mrs Breige, on 8th row, you work the last 2 sts A.3 together with the first st of A.4 (the 2nd yarn over becomes the first st A.4), then you work the last 2 sts A.4 together with the first stitch next A.4, and work the last 2 sts last A.4 together with the first stitch A.5 (the 2nd yarn over in A.4 becomes the first st in A.5). Happy knitting!

Karen wrote:

Hvordan kan i få det til 17 masker til ærmet, når man skal slå om 2x i mellem de 7 masker mønster? Det får jeg til 19. Hvad gøre man med de 2x slå om i næste omgang?

25.02.2024 - 14:42

Hei Karen. Det er 17 masker (+ 2 kast, kastene telles ikke som masker før de blir strikket som en maske). mvh DROPS Design

04.03.2024 - 09:22

Elena wrote:

YOKE: Says to cast on 96 stitches in all sizes but when you start the model (first row after the ridge edge) it does not equal with the 96 stitches. Am I missing something?

09.01.2024 - 15:52

Dear Elena, work the 96 sts as follows: 1 stitch in stocking stitch, A.1 (= 15 stitches), A.2 (= 7 stitches), 1 yarn over, 3 stitches in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over, A.2 (= 7 stitches), A.1 (= 15 stitches), 1 stitch in stocking stitch, A.1 (= 15 stitches), A.2 (= 7 stitches), 1 yarn over, 3 stitches in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over, A.2 (= 7 stitches), A.1 (= 15 stitches) = 1+15+7+3+7+15+1+15+7+3+7+15=96 stitches. Happy knitting!

10.01.2024 - 09:02

Mariacristina wrote:

Buongiorno, è possibile usare questa lavorazione del davanti ma lavorando in piano con ferri dritti?

03.10.2023 - 08:01

Buonasera Mariacristina, questo modello è progettato per essere lavorato in tondo: se vuole lavorarlo in piano deve riprogettare il motivo per la lavorazione in piano. Buon lavoro!

03.10.2023 - 22:21