Rose Twist by DROPS Design
Jumper with open cable mid front worked top down in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS 176-4
DROPS Design: Pattern no. z-790
Yarn group A + A - or C
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-250-300-300-350-350 g colour 3112, dusty pink
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-125-125-150-150 g colour 01, off white
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 5 MM – or the size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows stocking stitch with 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands) on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 MM – for ridge borders and rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for the cable.
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DROPS Design: Pattern no. z-790
Yarn group A + A - or C
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-250-300-300-350-350 g colour 3112, dusty pink
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-125-125-150-150 g colour 01, off white
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 5 MM – or the size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows stocking stitch with 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands) on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 MM – for ridge borders and rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for the cable.
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here.
There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here.
For this pattern in American English, please click here.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side. Choose the diagram for your size.
INCREASE TIP-1 (for the armholes):
All increases made from the right side.
Increase on the inside of 3 edge stitches in garter stitch along the armholes. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted purl to prevent holes.
INCREASE TIP-2 (for the sides on the front and back pieces):
All increases made from the right side.
Increase on the inside of 1 edge stitch in garter stitch + 2 stitches stocking stitch (= 3 stitches). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted purl to prevent holes.
INCREASE TIP-3 (for the purl section on each side of the cable mid front):
All increases made from the right side.
Increase 1 stitch in the last purl stitch before the stocking stitch on the left hand side of the piece (seen from the right side) and increase 1 stitch in the first purl stitch after the stocking stitch on the right hand side of the piece (seen from the right side). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 purl both in the front and back of the same stitch.
DECREASE TIP-1 (for the purl section on each side of the cable mid front):
All decreases made from the right side.
Decrease outermost in the purl sections (i.e. out towards the sides). Decrease 1 stitch by purling 2 stitches together.
DECREASE TIP-2 (for mid under sleeve):
Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).
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JUMPER:
Front and back pieces are worked back and forth, with circular needle, in parts.
BACK PIECE:
Start with the right shoulder (when the garment is worn), then work the left shoulder before casting on stitches for the neck and working across all the stitches.
RIGHT SHOULDER BACK (when the garment is worn):
Cast on 17-18-19-17-18-19 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm and 1 strand Alpaca + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Knit 1 row (row 1 = wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side (i.e. from the neck): 14-15-16-14-15-16 stitches stocking stitch, 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole. Work back from the wrong side with garter stitch over garter stitch and purl over purl, in addition cast on 1 new stitch at the end of the row towards the neck. Knit 1 row from the right side. Work back from the wrong side with garter stitch over garter stitch and purl over purl, in addition cast on 26-26-26-32-32-32 new stitches at the end of the row = 44-45-46-50-51-52 stitches on the needle. Lay the piece to one side and work the left shoulder back.
LEFT SHOULDER BACK (when the garment is worn):
Cast on 17-18-19-17-18-19 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). Knit 1 row (row 1 = wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side (i.e. from the armhole): 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, work 14-15-16-14-15-16 stitches stocking stitch, in addition cast on 1 new stitch at the end of the row towards the neck = 18-19-20-18-19-20 stitches on the needle. Work back from the wrong side with purl over purl and garter stitch over garter stitch. On the next row from the right side work the left and right shoulders together to the back piece as follows:
BACK PIECE:
Start with the stitches from the left shoulder, work 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole, work stocking stitch across the remaining stitches on the left shoulder, continue with stocking stitch across the stitches from the right shoulder until there are 3 stitches left, finish with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole = 62-64-66-68-70-72 stitches on the needle. Continue back and forth with stocking stitch and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the piece measures 16-16-16-15-13-11 cm increase 1 stitch in each side for the armhole – READ INCREASE TIP-1. Increase in this way every 2nd row (i.e. every row from the right side) in total 2-3-5-7-10-13 times, then cast on 3-4-5-6-7-8 new stitches at the end of the next 2 rows = 72-78-86-94-104-114 stitches on the needle.
Work stocking stitch with 6-7-8-9-10-11 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side. When you have worked 1 ridge over the outermost 6-7-8-9-10-11 stitches in each side continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side.
When the piece measures 28-30-31-32-33-34 cm from the shoulder increase 1 stitch in each side – READ INCREASE TIP-2. Increase in this way every 2½-2½-2½-2-2-2 cm in total 8-9-9-10-10-12 times in each side = 88-96-104-114-124-138 stitches.
Continue until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder and down (adjust so that the next row is worked from the right side). Change to circular needle size 4 mm and work 2 ridges back and forth across all stitches. Change back to circular needle size 5 mm and cast off (make sure the cast-off edge is not tight).
FRONT PIECE:
Start with the left shoulder, cast on stitches for the neck, then work the right shoulder before working across all the stitches.
LEFT SHOULDER FRONT (when the garment is worn):
Cast on 17-18-19-17-18-19 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). Knit 1 row (row 1 = wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side (i.e. from the neck): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 13-14-15-13-14-15 stitches stocking stitch, 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole. Continue back and forth with stocking stitch, 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the neck. When the piece measures 3 cm cast on new stitches towards the neck at the end of every row from the wrong side as follows: Cast on 1 stitch 3 times, 2 stitches 1 time and 18-18-18-24-24-24 stitches 1 time (the increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch) = 40-41-42-46-47-48 stitches on the needle. After the last stitches have been cast on, lay the piece to one side. Work the right shoulder front.
RIGHT SHOULDER FRONT (when the garment is worn):
Cast on 17-18-19-17-18-19 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). Knit 1 row (row 1 = wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side (i.e. from the armhole): 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, 13-14-15-13-14-15 stitches stocking stitch, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the neck. Continue back and forth with stocking stitch, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the neck and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole. When the piece measures 4 cm cast on new stitches towards the neck at the end of each row from the right side as follows: Cast on 1 stitch 3 times and 2 stitches 1 time = 22-23-24-22-23-24 stitches. After the last stitches have been cast on, work back from the wrong side with purl over purl and garter stitch over garter stitch. On the next row from the right side work the right and left shoulders together to the front piece as follows:
FRONT PIECE:
Place the stitches from the right and left shoulders on the same circular needle size 5 mm without working the stitches = 62-64-66-68-70-72 stitches on the needle. Insert 1 marker thread after 31-32-33-34-35-36 stitches and let the marker thread follow in piece (= mid front).
READ ALL OF THE NEXT PARAGRAPH BEFORE CONTINUING!
The next row is worked from the right side as follows: 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole, stocking stitch until there are 11-11-11-14-14-14 stitches left before the marker thread, 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches purl, knit 2 stitches in each of the next 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches (= 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches increased), 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches purl, stocking stitch until there are 3 stitches left on the needle and finish with 3 edge stitches garter stitch towards the armhole = 68-70-72-76-78-80 stitches on the needle. Work back from the wrong side with garter stitch over garter stitch, purl over purl and knit over knit (the middle 12-12-12-16-16-16 stitches are worked purl).
OPEN CABLE: The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, stocking stitch until there are 14-14-14-18-18-18 stitches left before the marker thread, 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches purl, place the next 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches on the cable needle behind the piece, knit 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches, knit 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches from the cable needle, purl 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches, stocking stitch until there are 3 stitches left on the needle 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. Now divide the piece mid front as follows: Place half of the stitches (i.e. 34-35-36-38-39-40 stitches) in the right hand side of the piece (seen from the right side) on a thread = 34-35-36-38-39-40 stitches left on the needle.
Continue back and forth across all the stitches in the left side of the piece with garter stitch over garter stitch, purl over purl and knit over knit – the outermost stitch towards mid front is now worked in garter stitch. AT THE SAME TIME every 2nd row (i.e. each row from the right side) decrease 1 stitch in the purl section – READ DECREASE TIP-1 until there are 4-4-4-5-5-5 purl stitches left. Work 3 rows back and forth without decreases in the purl section. Then increase 1 stitch in the purl section every 2nd row (i.e. every row from the right side) – READ INCREASE TIP-3 until there are 8-8-8-10-10-10 purl stitches.
ARMHOLE: AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 16-16-16-15-13-11 cm increase for the armhole in the side in the same way as for the back piece.
When 1 row is worked back from the wrong side after the last stitch has been increased in the purl section, leave the stitches on the left side of the piece. Place the stitches from the thread in the right side of the piece back on the circular needle size 5 mm and work in the same way but with decreases and increases in the purl section in the opposite side. When 1 row has been worked back from the wrong side after all the stitches have been increased in the purl section, put the cable together.
OPEN CABLE PUT TOGETHER:
Work from the right side as before across the stitches in the right side of the piece until there are 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches left on the needle, place these 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches on the cable needle behind the piece and knit the 6-6-6-8-8-8 first stitches in the left side of the piece, knit the 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches from the cable needle and continue as before across the remaining stitches in the left side of the piece. Now divide the piece mid front again and half the stitches, i.e. the stitches in the right hand side of the piece as far as the marker thread (seen from the right side) are placed on 1 thread.
READ THE REST OF THE FRONT PIECE BEFORE CONTINUING!
CABLE:
* Continue across the stitches in the left side of the piece, with garter stitch over garter stitch and purl over purl until there are 14-14-14-18-18-18 stitches left before the marker thread mid front, work A.1B over these stitches – NOTE: row 1 = the wrong side and the diagram is read from left to right. Work 2 more rows of A.1B across the outermost stitches towards mid front, stocking stitch and garter stitch towards the armhole and decrease as shown in the diagram (when working from the right side, read the diagram from right to left). Now place the stitches on 1 thread. Cut the strand and work 3 rows in the same way across the stitches in the right side of the piece – i.e. start mid front, work the first row from the wrong side with A.1A across the outermost 14-14-14-18-18-18 stitches towards mid front (row 1 = the wrong side and the diagram is read from left to right).
Place the stitches from the thread in the left side of the piece on the needle (without working the stitches). Work from the right side as before across the stitches in the right side of the piece until there are 13-13-13-17-17-17 stitches left before the marker thread, work A.2 across the next 26-26-26-34-34-34 stitches (the marker thread sits in the middle of A.2) and continue as before across the remaining stitches in the left side of the piece. Continue the pattern as follows, decrease and increase as shown in the diagram. When A.2 has been completed 1 time in height, divide the piece mid front again and half the stitches, i.e. the stitches in the right side of the piece are placed on 1 thread. Work 3 rows across the stitches in the left side of the piece with garter stitch over garter stitch, stocking stitch over stocking stitch and A.3B over the outermost stitches towards mid front, increase as shown in the diagram. Now place the stitches on 1 thread. Cut the strand and work 3 rows in the same way across the stitches in the right side of the piece – i.e. start mid front, work the first row from the wrong side with A.3A over the outermost 13-13-13-17-17-17 stitches towards mid front.
Place the stitches from the thread in the left side of the piece back on the needle (without working the stitches). Work from the right side as before across the stitches in the right side of the piece until there are 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches left before the marker thread, place these 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches on the cable needle behind the piece, knit the next 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches. Place the stitches on the right-hand needle on 1 thread. Knit the 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches on the cable needle and work as before to the end of the needle *.
Repeat the whole paragraph from *-* in total 3 times in height.
INCREASES IN THE SIDES: AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 28-30-31-32-33-34 cm from the shoulder increase 1 stitch in each side – READ INCREASE TIP-2. Increase in this way every 2½-2½-2½-2-2-2 cm in total 8-9-9-10-10-12 times in each side.
When the last repetition with the cable is complete and the increases in the sides are finished, the piece is again divided in the middle and the stitches on the right side of the piece are placed on 1 thread. Continue across the stitches in the left side of the piece with knit over knit, purl over purl and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. AT THE SAME TIME decrease in the purl section in the same way as during the cable, but decrease every 4th row (instead of every 2nd row) in total 6-6-6-7-7-7 times. After all the increases and decreases there are 41-45-49-54-59-66 stitches on the needle in the left side of the piece. Continue working until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder and down (adjust so the next row is worked from the right side). Change to circular needle size 4 mm and work 2 ridges back and forth across all the stitches. Change back to circular needle size 5 mm and cast off (make sure the cast-off edge is not tight).
Work in the same way across the stitches in the right side of the piece, but with the decreases in the opposite side.
SLEEVE:
The sleeve is worked from the top down. Work the sleeve cap back and forth on circular needle, then work the sleeve in the round on a short circular needle/double pointed needles to finished length.
Cast on 20-24-24-24-24-24 stitches on a short circular needle size 5 mm with 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). Work stocking stitch back and forth and cast on new stitches for the sleeve cap at the end of each row in each side as follows: Cast on 3 stitches 1 time in all sizes, 2 stitches 3-3-2-2-1-1 times, 1 stitch 2-2-3-4-7-9 times, 2 stitches 2-2-3-3-3-3 times and 3-4-5-6-7-8 stitches 1 time = 56-62-66-70-74-80 stitches on the needle. The piece now measures approx. 8-8-9-10-12-14 cm. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the row (= mid under sleeve). Continue to work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 2 cm from the marker thread decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – READ DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease in this way every 3-2½-2-2-1½-1½ cm in total 12-14-15-16-17-19 times = 32-34-36-38-40-42 stitches. When the piece measures 37-37-37-36-35-33 cm from the marker thread (the whole sleeve measures approx. 45-45-46-46-47-47 cm from the top down), knit 1 round where you increase 8-6-12-10-8-14 stitches evenly along the round = 40-40-48-48-48-56 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Work rib in the round (= knit 4 / purl 4). When the rib measures 10 cm cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – NOTE: It is important that the cast-off edge is not tight. To prevent this you can make 1 yarn over after every 4th stitch (yarn overs cast off as other stitches). The sleeve measures approx. 55-55-56-56-57-57 cm from the cast-on edge and down. Work another sleeve in the same way.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the cast-on edge. Sew the side seams from the armhole and down inside 1 edge stitch in each side. Sew in the sleeves – the ridge edge along the armholes should lie out on the sleeve (i.e. let the ridge edge lie a little over the edge of the sleeve cap).
NECKLINE:
Knit up from the right side approx. 74 to 84 stitches around the neck with a short circular needle size 4 mm and 1 strand of each quality. Purl 1 round, knit 1 round and purl 1 round before loosely casting off in knit.
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side. Choose the diagram for your size.
INCREASE TIP-1 (for the armholes):
All increases made from the right side.
Increase on the inside of 3 edge stitches in garter stitch along the armholes. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted purl to prevent holes.
INCREASE TIP-2 (for the sides on the front and back pieces):
All increases made from the right side.
Increase on the inside of 1 edge stitch in garter stitch + 2 stitches stocking stitch (= 3 stitches). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted purl to prevent holes.
INCREASE TIP-3 (for the purl section on each side of the cable mid front):
All increases made from the right side.
Increase 1 stitch in the last purl stitch before the stocking stitch on the left hand side of the piece (seen from the right side) and increase 1 stitch in the first purl stitch after the stocking stitch on the right hand side of the piece (seen from the right side). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 purl both in the front and back of the same stitch.
DECREASE TIP-1 (for the purl section on each side of the cable mid front):
All decreases made from the right side.
Decrease outermost in the purl sections (i.e. out towards the sides). Decrease 1 stitch by purling 2 stitches together.
DECREASE TIP-2 (for mid under sleeve):
Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).
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JUMPER:
Front and back pieces are worked back and forth, with circular needle, in parts.
BACK PIECE:
Start with the right shoulder (when the garment is worn), then work the left shoulder before casting on stitches for the neck and working across all the stitches.
RIGHT SHOULDER BACK (when the garment is worn):
Cast on 17-18-19-17-18-19 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm and 1 strand Alpaca + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Knit 1 row (row 1 = wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side (i.e. from the neck): 14-15-16-14-15-16 stitches stocking stitch, 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole. Work back from the wrong side with garter stitch over garter stitch and purl over purl, in addition cast on 1 new stitch at the end of the row towards the neck. Knit 1 row from the right side. Work back from the wrong side with garter stitch over garter stitch and purl over purl, in addition cast on 26-26-26-32-32-32 new stitches at the end of the row = 44-45-46-50-51-52 stitches on the needle. Lay the piece to one side and work the left shoulder back.
LEFT SHOULDER BACK (when the garment is worn):
Cast on 17-18-19-17-18-19 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). Knit 1 row (row 1 = wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side (i.e. from the armhole): 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, work 14-15-16-14-15-16 stitches stocking stitch, in addition cast on 1 new stitch at the end of the row towards the neck = 18-19-20-18-19-20 stitches on the needle. Work back from the wrong side with purl over purl and garter stitch over garter stitch. On the next row from the right side work the left and right shoulders together to the back piece as follows:
BACK PIECE:
Start with the stitches from the left shoulder, work 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole, work stocking stitch across the remaining stitches on the left shoulder, continue with stocking stitch across the stitches from the right shoulder until there are 3 stitches left, finish with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole = 62-64-66-68-70-72 stitches on the needle. Continue back and forth with stocking stitch and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the piece measures 16-16-16-15-13-11 cm increase 1 stitch in each side for the armhole – READ INCREASE TIP-1. Increase in this way every 2nd row (i.e. every row from the right side) in total 2-3-5-7-10-13 times, then cast on 3-4-5-6-7-8 new stitches at the end of the next 2 rows = 72-78-86-94-104-114 stitches on the needle.
Work stocking stitch with 6-7-8-9-10-11 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side. When you have worked 1 ridge over the outermost 6-7-8-9-10-11 stitches in each side continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side.
When the piece measures 28-30-31-32-33-34 cm from the shoulder increase 1 stitch in each side – READ INCREASE TIP-2. Increase in this way every 2½-2½-2½-2-2-2 cm in total 8-9-9-10-10-12 times in each side = 88-96-104-114-124-138 stitches.
Continue until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder and down (adjust so that the next row is worked from the right side). Change to circular needle size 4 mm and work 2 ridges back and forth across all stitches. Change back to circular needle size 5 mm and cast off (make sure the cast-off edge is not tight).
FRONT PIECE:
Start with the left shoulder, cast on stitches for the neck, then work the right shoulder before working across all the stitches.
LEFT SHOULDER FRONT (when the garment is worn):
Cast on 17-18-19-17-18-19 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). Knit 1 row (row 1 = wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side (i.e. from the neck): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 13-14-15-13-14-15 stitches stocking stitch, 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole. Continue back and forth with stocking stitch, 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the neck. When the piece measures 3 cm cast on new stitches towards the neck at the end of every row from the wrong side as follows: Cast on 1 stitch 3 times, 2 stitches 1 time and 18-18-18-24-24-24 stitches 1 time (the increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch) = 40-41-42-46-47-48 stitches on the needle. After the last stitches have been cast on, lay the piece to one side. Work the right shoulder front.
RIGHT SHOULDER FRONT (when the garment is worn):
Cast on 17-18-19-17-18-19 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). Knit 1 row (row 1 = wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side (i.e. from the armhole): 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, 13-14-15-13-14-15 stitches stocking stitch, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the neck. Continue back and forth with stocking stitch, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the neck and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole. When the piece measures 4 cm cast on new stitches towards the neck at the end of each row from the right side as follows: Cast on 1 stitch 3 times and 2 stitches 1 time = 22-23-24-22-23-24 stitches. After the last stitches have been cast on, work back from the wrong side with purl over purl and garter stitch over garter stitch. On the next row from the right side work the right and left shoulders together to the front piece as follows:
FRONT PIECE:
Place the stitches from the right and left shoulders on the same circular needle size 5 mm without working the stitches = 62-64-66-68-70-72 stitches on the needle. Insert 1 marker thread after 31-32-33-34-35-36 stitches and let the marker thread follow in piece (= mid front).
READ ALL OF THE NEXT PARAGRAPH BEFORE CONTINUING!
The next row is worked from the right side as follows: 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole, stocking stitch until there are 11-11-11-14-14-14 stitches left before the marker thread, 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches purl, knit 2 stitches in each of the next 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches (= 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches increased), 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches purl, stocking stitch until there are 3 stitches left on the needle and finish with 3 edge stitches garter stitch towards the armhole = 68-70-72-76-78-80 stitches on the needle. Work back from the wrong side with garter stitch over garter stitch, purl over purl and knit over knit (the middle 12-12-12-16-16-16 stitches are worked purl).
OPEN CABLE: The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, stocking stitch until there are 14-14-14-18-18-18 stitches left before the marker thread, 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches purl, place the next 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches on the cable needle behind the piece, knit 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches, knit 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches from the cable needle, purl 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches, stocking stitch until there are 3 stitches left on the needle 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. Now divide the piece mid front as follows: Place half of the stitches (i.e. 34-35-36-38-39-40 stitches) in the right hand side of the piece (seen from the right side) on a thread = 34-35-36-38-39-40 stitches left on the needle.
Continue back and forth across all the stitches in the left side of the piece with garter stitch over garter stitch, purl over purl and knit over knit – the outermost stitch towards mid front is now worked in garter stitch. AT THE SAME TIME every 2nd row (i.e. each row from the right side) decrease 1 stitch in the purl section – READ DECREASE TIP-1 until there are 4-4-4-5-5-5 purl stitches left. Work 3 rows back and forth without decreases in the purl section. Then increase 1 stitch in the purl section every 2nd row (i.e. every row from the right side) – READ INCREASE TIP-3 until there are 8-8-8-10-10-10 purl stitches.
ARMHOLE: AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 16-16-16-15-13-11 cm increase for the armhole in the side in the same way as for the back piece.
When 1 row is worked back from the wrong side after the last stitch has been increased in the purl section, leave the stitches on the left side of the piece. Place the stitches from the thread in the right side of the piece back on the circular needle size 5 mm and work in the same way but with decreases and increases in the purl section in the opposite side. When 1 row has been worked back from the wrong side after all the stitches have been increased in the purl section, put the cable together.
OPEN CABLE PUT TOGETHER:
Work from the right side as before across the stitches in the right side of the piece until there are 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches left on the needle, place these 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches on the cable needle behind the piece and knit the 6-6-6-8-8-8 first stitches in the left side of the piece, knit the 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches from the cable needle and continue as before across the remaining stitches in the left side of the piece. Now divide the piece mid front again and half the stitches, i.e. the stitches in the right hand side of the piece as far as the marker thread (seen from the right side) are placed on 1 thread.
READ THE REST OF THE FRONT PIECE BEFORE CONTINUING!
CABLE:
* Continue across the stitches in the left side of the piece, with garter stitch over garter stitch and purl over purl until there are 14-14-14-18-18-18 stitches left before the marker thread mid front, work A.1B over these stitches – NOTE: row 1 = the wrong side and the diagram is read from left to right. Work 2 more rows of A.1B across the outermost stitches towards mid front, stocking stitch and garter stitch towards the armhole and decrease as shown in the diagram (when working from the right side, read the diagram from right to left). Now place the stitches on 1 thread. Cut the strand and work 3 rows in the same way across the stitches in the right side of the piece – i.e. start mid front, work the first row from the wrong side with A.1A across the outermost 14-14-14-18-18-18 stitches towards mid front (row 1 = the wrong side and the diagram is read from left to right).
Place the stitches from the thread in the left side of the piece on the needle (without working the stitches). Work from the right side as before across the stitches in the right side of the piece until there are 13-13-13-17-17-17 stitches left before the marker thread, work A.2 across the next 26-26-26-34-34-34 stitches (the marker thread sits in the middle of A.2) and continue as before across the remaining stitches in the left side of the piece. Continue the pattern as follows, decrease and increase as shown in the diagram. When A.2 has been completed 1 time in height, divide the piece mid front again and half the stitches, i.e. the stitches in the right side of the piece are placed on 1 thread. Work 3 rows across the stitches in the left side of the piece with garter stitch over garter stitch, stocking stitch over stocking stitch and A.3B over the outermost stitches towards mid front, increase as shown in the diagram. Now place the stitches on 1 thread. Cut the strand and work 3 rows in the same way across the stitches in the right side of the piece – i.e. start mid front, work the first row from the wrong side with A.3A over the outermost 13-13-13-17-17-17 stitches towards mid front.
Place the stitches from the thread in the left side of the piece back on the needle (without working the stitches). Work from the right side as before across the stitches in the right side of the piece until there are 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches left before the marker thread, place these 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches on the cable needle behind the piece, knit the next 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches. Place the stitches on the right-hand needle on 1 thread. Knit the 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches on the cable needle and work as before to the end of the needle *.
Repeat the whole paragraph from *-* in total 3 times in height.
INCREASES IN THE SIDES: AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 28-30-31-32-33-34 cm from the shoulder increase 1 stitch in each side – READ INCREASE TIP-2. Increase in this way every 2½-2½-2½-2-2-2 cm in total 8-9-9-10-10-12 times in each side.
When the last repetition with the cable is complete and the increases in the sides are finished, the piece is again divided in the middle and the stitches on the right side of the piece are placed on 1 thread. Continue across the stitches in the left side of the piece with knit over knit, purl over purl and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. AT THE SAME TIME decrease in the purl section in the same way as during the cable, but decrease every 4th row (instead of every 2nd row) in total 6-6-6-7-7-7 times. After all the increases and decreases there are 41-45-49-54-59-66 stitches on the needle in the left side of the piece. Continue working until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder and down (adjust so the next row is worked from the right side). Change to circular needle size 4 mm and work 2 ridges back and forth across all the stitches. Change back to circular needle size 5 mm and cast off (make sure the cast-off edge is not tight).
Work in the same way across the stitches in the right side of the piece, but with the decreases in the opposite side.
SLEEVE:
The sleeve is worked from the top down. Work the sleeve cap back and forth on circular needle, then work the sleeve in the round on a short circular needle/double pointed needles to finished length.
Cast on 20-24-24-24-24-24 stitches on a short circular needle size 5 mm with 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). Work stocking stitch back and forth and cast on new stitches for the sleeve cap at the end of each row in each side as follows: Cast on 3 stitches 1 time in all sizes, 2 stitches 3-3-2-2-1-1 times, 1 stitch 2-2-3-4-7-9 times, 2 stitches 2-2-3-3-3-3 times and 3-4-5-6-7-8 stitches 1 time = 56-62-66-70-74-80 stitches on the needle. The piece now measures approx. 8-8-9-10-12-14 cm. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the row (= mid under sleeve). Continue to work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 2 cm from the marker thread decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – READ DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease in this way every 3-2½-2-2-1½-1½ cm in total 12-14-15-16-17-19 times = 32-34-36-38-40-42 stitches. When the piece measures 37-37-37-36-35-33 cm from the marker thread (the whole sleeve measures approx. 45-45-46-46-47-47 cm from the top down), knit 1 round where you increase 8-6-12-10-8-14 stitches evenly along the round = 40-40-48-48-48-56 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Work rib in the round (= knit 4 / purl 4). When the rib measures 10 cm cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – NOTE: It is important that the cast-off edge is not tight. To prevent this you can make 1 yarn over after every 4th stitch (yarn overs cast off as other stitches). The sleeve measures approx. 55-55-56-56-57-57 cm from the cast-on edge and down. Work another sleeve in the same way.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the cast-on edge. Sew the side seams from the armhole and down inside 1 edge stitch in each side. Sew in the sleeves – the ridge edge along the armholes should lie out on the sleeve (i.e. let the ridge edge lie a little over the edge of the sleeve cap).
NECKLINE:
Knit up from the right side approx. 74 to 84 stitches around the neck with a short circular needle size 4 mm and 1 strand of each quality. Purl 1 round, knit 1 round and purl 1 round before loosely casting off in knit.
Diagram
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= knit from right side, purl from wrong side |
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= purl from right side, knit from wrong side |
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= purl 1 front and back in same stitch (= 1 stitch increased) |
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= Purl 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased) |
|
= knitting direction |
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What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 299 catalogues and 11096 patterns - 11096 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Hallo, ich würde den Pullover gern mit Drops Belle in Größe M stricken. (entsprechend den Maßen, also natürlich mehr Maschen pro cm). Können Sie mir sagen, wieviel Wolle ich ca. dafür benötige? Vielen lieben Dank.
02.09.2023 - 09:00DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Dorit, leider wird Belle dafür keine Alternative - hier wird entweder 2 Fäden Garngruppe A (Alpaca und Kid-Silk) oder 1 Faden Garngruppe C (siehe Garnumrechnter), dann sollen Sie sich am besten einen Pullover von der Garngruppe B entscheiden. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
04.09.2023 kl. 09:22Pour le modèle 176-4 lorsque je tricote la 2e torsade ... les diminutions se font à partir du côté intérieur après les 6 mailles centrales ou bien à l extérieur (côté bordure) soit à partir de la 7e et 8e mailles envers...merci
11.06.2023 - 14:12DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Rondeau, les diminutions de chaque côté de la torsade se font dans les mailles envers, avant et après la torsade, et se font côté jersey et non pas côté torsade. Bon tricot!
12.06.2023 kl. 09:00I purchased the Alpaca yarn previously, and have chosen to use it for this sweater. Do I need to have the Kid-Silk to make it??
15.01.2022 - 20:56DROPS Design answered:
Dear Renee, you can work with 2 threads of Alpaca (so you will need double the amount stated) or you use 1 thread of Alpaca and 1 of Kid-Silk, but you will need to buy the Kid-Silk yarn. Happy knitting!
16.01.2022 kl. 21:19Bonjour pour le montage des mailles au niveau du dos 3 mailles à la fin du rang : c est après les 3 points mousses ou après ? Merci 🤩
19.12.2021 - 13:39DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mélanie, quand on monte des mailles, c'est toujours en fin de rang (comme on le montre dans cette vidéo en fin de rang sur l'envers par exemple). Bon tricot!
20.12.2021 kl. 07:51Buongiorno, sto realizzando il maglione con i filati consigliati. Non riesco però a capire l'esecuzione della treccia chiusa, non è la solita. In particolare, non capisco perché lavorare in alcuni punti due parti separatamente tagliando il filo. Purtroppo non ho trovato un tutorial specifico, solo quello delle trecce tradizionali e della treccia aperta. Se poteste indicarmelo o darmi ulteriori spiegazioni, grazie.
28.11.2021 - 11:13DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Antonina, non ci sono tutorial per questa treccia al momento: deve procedere a lavorare come indicato. Buon lavoro!
08.12.2021 kl. 19:39Hallo Jeanette, Ich stricke dieses Modell von unten nach oben, habe die korrekte Wolle und entsprechende Nadeln verwendet. Leider stelle ich beim Stricken des Rückenteils fest, dass sich der kraus rechts gestrickte Saum nach oben rollt. Was kann ich tun, nochmal alles aufmachen ? Vielen Dank für eine Antwort? LG Gudrun
25.11.2021 - 22:56DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Gudrun, Sie können danach den Pullover oder jedes Teil mit Stecknadeln auf einer geeigneten Unterlage spannen, anfeuchten (z.B. mit einer Sprühflasche für Blumen) und trocknen lassen, danach entfernen Sie die Stecknadeln, dann sollte sich der Rand nicht mehr rollen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
26.11.2021 kl. 07:42Good morning; I would like to know how much yarn to order for this pattern. I am small. Jackie
12.10.2021 - 20:09DROPS Design answered:
Dear Jacqueline, for size S you need 250 g (5 balls) DROPS Alpaca and 100 g (4 balls) DROPS Kid-Silk. Happy knitting!
12.10.2021 kl. 21:54Bonjour, Je me demande si la mesure de l’ouvrage (dos du pull), se fait à partir du col ou de l’épaule ?
24.08.2021 - 13:29DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Anne, s'il s'agit d'un pull ou d'un gilet, la longueur totale est prise à partir du point le plus haut de l'épaule (généralement près du col) jusqu'au bas du vêtement. Il N'est PAS mesuré à partir de la pointe de l'épaule. Bon tricot!
24.08.2021 kl. 13:44I am just finishing a very lovely jacket made with your alpaca yarn. Wool makes me very itchy, and the alpaca is much better but I will still need to wear something under it. That would not work with this jumper and I am wondering whether you have a yarn I could use for this that would have no itch. Thank you.
19.03.2021 - 15:52DROPS Design answered:
Dear Julia, the sensitivity of each individual is different, a yarn that is fine for most people might be unberably itchy for some, so we cannot say for aní yarn that is guaraanteed not to itch. I've heard, amongh my friends, that Merino Extra Fine, Cotton Merino or Baby Alpaca silk yarn is better, and most cotton yarns do not itch at all, but they will result in a different texture. Happy Knitting!
20.03.2021 kl. 07:18Ich bin am überlegen, ob das Vorderteil in zwei Farben auch zu stricken wäre... Allerdings habe ich gar keine Idee, wie das funktioniern kann... Können Sie mir da weiterhelfen?
15.03.2021 - 19:00DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Dornhofer, leider können wir jeder Anleitung nach jedem individuellen Frage anpassen und einzelne Modelle auf individuellen Wunsch hin umrechnen. Wenn sie Hilfe damit brauchen, wenden Sie sich bitte an Ihrem DROPS Laden, dort hilft man Ihnen gerne weiter - auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
16.03.2021 kl. 08:34