DROPS / 176 / 4

Rose Twist by DROPS Design

Jumper with open cable mid front worked top down in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no. z-790
Yarn group A + A - or C
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-250-300-300-350-350 g colour 3112, dusty pink
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-125-125-150-150 g colour 01, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 5 MM – or the size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows stocking stitch with 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands) on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 MM – for ridge borders and rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for the cable.
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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.
Comments (91)

100% Alpaca
from 1.90 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 1.90 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 2.00 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 2.45 £ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 2.45 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 2.45 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.30£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side. Choose the diagram for your size.

INCREASE TIP-1 (for the armholes):
All increases made from the right side.
Increase on the inside of 3 edge stitches in garter stitch along the armholes. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted purl to prevent holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for the sides on the front and back pieces):
All increases made from the right side.
Increase on the inside of 1 edge stitch in garter stitch + 2 stitches stocking stitch (= 3 stitches). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted purl to prevent holes.

INCREASE TIP-3 (for the purl section on each side of the cable mid front):
All increases made from the right side.
Increase 1 stitch in the last purl stitch before the stocking stitch on the left hand side of the piece (seen from the right side) and increase 1 stitch in the first purl stitch after the stocking stitch on the right hand side of the piece (seen from the right side). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 purl both in the front and back of the same stitch.

DECREASE TIP-1 (for the purl section on each side of the cable mid front):
All decreases made from the right side.
Decrease outermost in the purl sections (i.e. out towards the sides). Decrease 1 stitch by purling 2 stitches together.

DECREASE TIP-2 (for mid under sleeve):
Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).
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JUMPER:
Front and back pieces are worked back and forth, with circular needle, in parts.

BACK PIECE:
Start with the right shoulder (when the garment is worn), then work the left shoulder before casting on stitches for the neck and working across all the stitches.

RIGHT SHOULDER BACK (when the garment is worn):
Cast on 17-18-19-17-18-19 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm and 1 strand Alpaca + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Knit 1 row (row 1 = wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side (i.e. from the neck): 14-15-16-14-15-16 stitches stocking stitch, 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole. Work back from the wrong side with garter stitch over garter stitch and purl over purl, in addition cast on 1 new stitch at the end of the row towards the neck. Knit 1 row from the right side. Work back from the wrong side with garter stitch over garter stitch and purl over purl, in addition cast on 26-26-26-32-32-32 new stitches at the end of the row = 44-45-46-50-51-52 stitches on the needle. Lay the piece to one side and work the left shoulder back.

LEFT SHOULDER BACK (when the garment is worn):
Cast on 17-18-19-17-18-19 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). Knit 1 row (row 1 = wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side (i.e. from the armhole): 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, work 14-15-16-14-15-16 stitches stocking stitch, in addition cast on 1 new stitch at the end of the row towards the neck = 18-19-20-18-19-20 stitches on the needle. Work back from the wrong side with purl over purl and garter stitch over garter stitch. On the next row from the right side work the left and right shoulders together to the back piece as follows:

BACK PIECE:
Start with the stitches from the left shoulder, work 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole, work stocking stitch across the remaining stitches on the left shoulder, continue with stocking stitch across the stitches from the right shoulder until there are 3 stitches left, finish with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole = 62-64-66-68-70-72 stitches on the needle. Continue back and forth with stocking stitch and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the piece measures 16-16-16-15-13-11 cm increase 1 stitch in each side for the armhole – READ INCREASE TIP-1. Increase in this way every 2nd row (i.e. every row from the right side) in total 2-3-5-7-10-13 times, then cast on 3-4-5-6-7-8 new stitches at the end of the next 2 rows = 72-78-86-94-104-114 stitches on the needle. 
Work stocking stitch with 6-7-8-9-10-11 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side. When you have worked 1 ridge over the outermost 6-7-8-9-10-11 stitches in each side continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side.
When the piece measures 28-30-31-32-33-34 cm from the shoulder increase 1 stitch in each side – READ INCREASE TIP-2. Increase in this way every 2½-2½-2½-2-2-2 cm in total 8-9-9-10-10-12 times in each side = 88-96-104-114-124-138 stitches.
Continue until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder and down (adjust so that the next row is worked from the right side). Change to circular needle size 4 mm and work 2 ridges back and forth across all stitches. Change back to circular needle size 5 mm and cast off (make sure the cast-off edge is not tight).

FRONT PIECE:
Start with the left shoulder, cast on stitches for the neck, then work the right shoulder before working across all the stitches.

LEFT SHOULDER FRONT (when the garment is worn):
Cast on 17-18-19-17-18-19 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). Knit 1 row (row 1 = wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side (i.e. from the neck): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 13-14-15-13-14-15 stitches stocking stitch, 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole. Continue back and forth with stocking stitch, 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the neck. When the piece measures 3 cm cast on new stitches towards the neck at the end of every row from the wrong side as follows: Cast on 1 stitch 3 times, 2 stitches 1 time and 18-18-18-24-24-24 stitches 1 time (the increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch) = 40-41-42-46-47-48 stitches on the needle. After the last stitches have been cast on, lay the piece to one side. Work the right shoulder front.

RIGHT SHOULDER FRONT (when the garment is worn):
Cast on 17-18-19-17-18-19 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). Knit 1 row (row 1 = wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side (i.e. from the armhole): 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, 13-14-15-13-14-15 stitches stocking stitch, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the neck. Continue back and forth with stocking stitch, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the neck and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole. When the piece measures 4 cm cast on new stitches towards the neck at the end of each row from the right side as follows: Cast on 1 stitch 3 times and 2 stitches 1 time = 22-23-24-22-23-24 stitches. After the last stitches have been cast on, work back from the wrong side with purl over purl and garter stitch over garter stitch. On the next row from the right side work the right and left shoulders together to the front piece as follows:

FRONT PIECE:
Place the stitches from the right and left shoulders on the same circular needle size 5 mm without working the stitches = 62-64-66-68-70-72 stitches on the needle. Insert 1 marker thread after 31-32-33-34-35-36 stitches and let the marker thread follow in piece (= mid front).
READ ALL OF THE NEXT PARAGRAPH BEFORE CONTINUING!
The next row is worked from the right side as follows: 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole, stocking stitch until there are 11-11-11-14-14-14 stitches left before the marker thread, 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches purl, knit 2 stitches in each of the next 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches (= 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches increased), 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches purl, stocking stitch until there are 3 stitches left on the needle and finish with 3 edge stitches garter stitch towards the armhole = 68-70-72-76-78-80 stitches on the needle. Work back from the wrong side with garter stitch over garter stitch, purl over purl and knit over knit (the middle 12-12-12-16-16-16 stitches are worked purl).
OPEN CABLE: The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, stocking stitch until there are 14-14-14-18-18-18 stitches left before the marker thread, 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches purl, place the next 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches on the cable needle behind the piece, knit 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches, knit 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches from the cable needle, purl 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches, stocking stitch until there are 3 stitches left on the needle 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. Now divide the piece mid front as follows: Place half of the stitches (i.e. 34-35-36-38-39-40 stitches) in the right hand side of the piece (seen from the right side) on a thread = 34-35-36-38-39-40 stitches left on the needle.
Continue back and forth across all the stitches in the left side of the piece with garter stitch over garter stitch, purl over purl and knit over knit – the outermost stitch towards mid front is now worked in garter stitch. AT THE SAME TIME every 2nd row (i.e. each row from the right side) decrease 1 stitch in the purl section – READ DECREASE TIP-1 until there are 4-4-4-5-5-5 purl stitches left. Work 3 rows back and forth without decreases in the purl section. Then increase 1 stitch in the purl section every 2nd row (i.e. every row from the right side) – READ INCREASE TIP-3 until there are 8-8-8-10-10-10 purl stitches.
ARMHOLE: AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 16-16-16-15-13-11 cm increase for the armhole in the side in the same way as for the back piece.
When 1 row is worked back from the wrong side after the last stitch has been increased in the purl section, leave the stitches on the left side of the piece. Place the stitches from the thread in the right side of the piece back on the circular needle size 5 mm and work in the same way but with decreases and increases in the purl section in the opposite side. When 1 row has been worked back from the wrong side after all the stitches have been increased in the purl section, put the cable together.
OPEN CABLE PUT TOGETHER:
Work from the right side as before across the stitches in the right side of the piece until there are 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches left on the needle, place these 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches on the cable needle behind the piece and knit the 6-6-6-8-8-8 first stitches in the left side of the piece, knit the 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches from the cable needle and continue as before across the remaining stitches in the left side of the piece. Now divide the piece mid front again and half the stitches, i.e. the stitches in the right hand side of the piece as far as the marker thread (seen from the right side) are placed on 1 thread.
READ THE REST OF THE FRONT PIECE BEFORE CONTINUING!

CABLE:
* Continue across the stitches in the left side of the piece, with garter stitch over garter stitch and purl over purl until there are 14-14-14-18-18-18 stitches left before the marker thread mid front, work A.1B over these stitches – NOTE: row 1 = the wrong side and the diagram is read from left to right. Work 2 more rows of A.1B across the outermost stitches towards mid front, stocking stitch and garter stitch towards the armhole and decrease as shown in the diagram (when working from the right side, read the diagram from right to left). Now place the stitches on 1 thread. Cut the strand and work 3 rows in the same way across the stitches in the right side of the piece – i.e. start mid front, work the first row from the wrong side with A.1A across the outermost 14-14-14-18-18-18 stitches towards mid front (row 1 = the wrong side and the diagram is read from left to right).
Place the stitches from the thread in the left side of the piece on the needle (without working the stitches). Work from the right side as before across the stitches in the right side of the piece until there are 13-13-13-17-17-17 stitches left before the marker thread, work A.2 across the next 26-26-26-34-34-34 stitches (the marker thread sits in the middle of A.2) and continue as before across the remaining stitches in the left side of the piece. Continue the pattern as follows, decrease and increase as shown in the diagram. When A.2 has been completed 1 time in height, divide the piece mid front again and half the stitches, i.e. the stitches in the right side of the piece are placed on 1 thread. Work 3 rows across the stitches in the left side of the piece with garter stitch over garter stitch, stocking stitch over stocking stitch and A.3B over the outermost stitches towards mid front, increase as shown in the diagram. Now place the stitches on 1 thread. Cut the strand and work 3 rows in the same way across the stitches in the right side of the piece – i.e. start mid front, work the first row from the wrong side with A.3A over the outermost 13-13-13-17-17-17 stitches towards mid front.
Place the stitches from the thread in the left side of the piece back on the needle (without working the stitches). Work from the right side as before across the stitches in the right side of the piece until there are 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches left before the marker thread, place these 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches on the cable needle behind the piece, knit the next 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches. Place the stitches on the right-hand needle on 1 thread. Knit the 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches on the cable needle and work as before to the end of the needle *.
Repeat the whole paragraph from *-* in total 3 times in height.

INCREASES IN THE SIDES: AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 28-30-31-32-33-34 cm from the shoulder increase 1 stitch in each side – READ INCREASE TIP-2. Increase in this way every 2½-2½-2½-2-2-2 cm in total 8-9-9-10-10-12 times in each side.

When the last repetition with the cable is complete and the increases in the sides are finished, the piece is again divided in the middle and the stitches on the right side of the piece are placed on 1 thread. Continue across the stitches in the left side of the piece with knit over knit, purl over purl and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. AT THE SAME TIME decrease in the purl section in the same way as during the cable, but decrease every 4th row (instead of every 2nd row) in total 6-6-6-7-7-7 times. After all the increases and decreases there are 41-45-49-54-59-66 stitches on the needle in the left side of the piece. Continue working until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder and down (adjust so the next row is worked from the right side). Change to circular needle size 4 mm and work 2 ridges back and forth across all the stitches. Change back to circular needle size 5 mm and cast off (make sure the cast-off edge is not tight).
Work in the same way across the stitches in the right side of the piece, but with the decreases in the opposite side.

SLEEVE:
The sleeve is worked from the top down. Work the sleeve cap back and forth on circular needle, then work the sleeve in the round on a short circular needle/double pointed needles to finished length.
Cast on 20-24-24-24-24-24 stitches on a short circular needle size 5 mm with 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). Work stocking stitch back and forth and cast on new stitches for the sleeve cap at the end of each row in each side as follows: Cast on 3 stitches 1 time in all sizes, 2 stitches 3-3-2-2-1-1 times, 1 stitch 2-2-3-4-7-9 times, 2 stitches 2-2-3-3-3-3 times and 3-4-5-6-7-8 stitches 1 time = 56-62-66-70-74-80 stitches on the needle. The piece now measures approx. 8-8-9-10-12-14 cm. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the row (= mid under sleeve). Continue to work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 2 cm from the marker thread decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – READ DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease in this way every 3-2½-2-2-1½-1½ cm in total 12-14-15-16-17-19 times = 32-34-36-38-40-42 stitches. When the piece measures 37-37-37-36-35-33 cm from the marker thread (the whole sleeve measures approx. 45-45-46-46-47-47 cm from the top down), knit 1 round where you increase 8-6-12-10-8-14 stitches evenly along the round = 40-40-48-48-48-56 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Work rib in the round (= knit 4 / purl 4). When the rib measures 10 cm cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – NOTE: It is important that the cast-off edge is not tight. To prevent this you can make 1 yarn over after every 4th stitch (yarn overs cast off as other stitches). The sleeve measures approx. 55-55-56-56-57-57 cm from the cast-on edge and down. Work another sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the cast-on edge. Sew the side seams from the armhole and down inside 1 edge stitch in each side. Sew in the sleeves – the ridge edge along the armholes should lie out on the sleeve (i.e. let the ridge edge lie a little over the edge of the sleeve cap).

NECKLINE:
Knit up from the right side approx. 74 to 84 stitches around the neck with a short circular needle size 4 mm and 1 strand of each quality. Purl 1 round, knit 1 round and purl 1 round before loosely casting off in knit.

Diagram

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
= purl 1 front and back in same stitch (= 1 stitch increased)
= Purl 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased)
= knitting direction



Comments (91)

Leave your comment!

Nanou 09.05.2018 - 14:40:

Merci beaucoup pour votre aide . j'en suis au devant ,et on me dit de diminuer tous les 2 rangs sur l'endroit une maille sur la section mailles envers,jusqu'à ce qu'il ne reste plus que 5m.dois je diminuer 1 seule m au début ou à la fin de la section m envers ?soit à coté de la torsade ou bien à la fin de la section envers coté jersey ?merci pour cotre aide .cordialement

DROPS Design 09.05.2018 kl. 14:56:

Bonjour Nanou, on diminue 1 m envers dans la section en mailles envers qui se trouve de chaque côté de la torsade du devant - cf DIMINUTIONS-1 - au début de la section en m env pour le côté droit (quand on porte le pull) et à la fin de la section en m env pour le côté gauche (quand on porte le pull), c'est-à-dire sur le côté "extérieur" des mailles envers de part et d'autre de la torsade. Bon tricot!

Nanou 08.05.2018 - 19:36:

Bonsoir je suis arrivée à la division de l ouvrage au milieu, pouvez-vous me dire si la m côté milieu est une maille qui appartient aux m de la torsade et doit elle toujours être point mousse soit envers sur le côté endroit ?merci pour votre aide

DROPS Design 09.05.2018 kl. 08:29:

Bonjour Nanou, quand on divise le devant avant la torsade ouverte, la maille côté milieu devant va se tricoter maintenant au point mousse. Bon tricot!

Nanou 08.05.2018 - 17:56:

Bonjour je ne comprends pas comment faire avant les torsades sur le devant le rang ou il y a le fil marqueur avant les 14 mailles,10 m envers,tricoter 2 fois endroit 8 m,comment dois-je faire pour avoir ces 8m en plutôt avoir au total les 76 m.Je suis complètement perdue. Merci pour votre aide.

DROPS Design 09.05.2018 kl. 08:05:

Bonjour Nanou, avant ce rang, vous avez 68 m sur l'aiguille, tricotez maintenant en sur l'endroit 3 m point mousse, puis en jersey jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 14 m avant le fil marqueur (milieu devant) soit 31 m end, 10 m env puis tricotez 2 fois à l'endroit chacune des 8 m suivantes alternativement dans le brin avant et le brin arrière = vous augmentez 8 mailles au total (cf vidéo), 10 m env, continuez en jersey et terminez par 3 m point mousse. Bon tricot!

Denisa Kincová 10.04.2018 - 14:12:

Dobrý den, tento svetr je opravdu nádherný, prosím je možné přeložit návod i do českého jazyka? děkuji a přeji pěkný den Denisa Kincová

SIMONDON 25.03.2018 - 22:53:

Quand on tricote le devant, juste avant la torsade ouverte, il est indiqué qu'au rang retour sur l'envers il faut tricoter" les mailles endroit à l'endroit" mais ou se trouvent-elles ? Merci.

DROPS Design 26.03.2018 kl. 11:41:

Bonjour Mme Simondon, sur l'envers on va tricoter les mailles comme elles se présentent, les mailles à tricoter à l'endroit sur l'envers sont celles que l'on a tricoté à l'envers sur l'endroit au rang précédent. Bon tricot!

Birgit Schaffner 22.03.2018 - 15:45:

Hallo, ich verstehe nicht, warum die Arbeit nach dem ersten offenen Zopf wieder geteilt werden muss. Die Zöpfe in der Mitte sehen auf den Bildern doch geschlossen aus?

DROPS Design 24.03.2018 kl. 09:57:

Liebe Birgit, ja, die Zöpfe sind geschlossen - Sie stricken ja A.2 über alle mittleren Maschen. Der Zopf wird für 3 Reihen geteilt, da er sehr langgezogen ist, die Maschen werden ja anschließend wieder zusammengesetzt. Das Muster ist zum Foto passend, so wie es beschrieben ist.

Ginny 18.03.2018 - 19:55:

I'm sorry but I don't understand the instructions for the shoulders. Are the instructions simply reversed and just haven't been corrected? Because if Im knitting the Right shoulder and the first row is the wrong side of the garment, then starting the next row from the right side (again, when knitting the right shoulder) should be from armhole and not from neck. I'm confused.

DROPS Design 19.03.2018 kl. 11:06:

Dear Ginny, you are working shoulder from top down, ie the right shoulder (when worn) will start from RS from neck towards armhole and left shoulder will start from RS from armhole towards neck. Happy knitting!

Tonna Bendtsen 13.03.2018 - 10:07:

The print button does not work. Says the doc does not exist.

SIMONDON 12.03.2018 - 22:55:

Pouvez-vous SVP m'expliquer comment mettre les mailles en attente pour l'épaule droite (dos), puis monter les 17 mailles pour l'épaule gauche (dos) ? Merci.

DROPS Design 13.03.2018 kl. 09:44:

Bonjour Mme Simondon, après avoir tricoté l'épaule droite (dos) et monté les mailles de l'encolure à la fin du rang, coupez le fil et glissez ces mailles en attente sur un fil (voir vidéo) ou sur un arrêt de mailles. Montez maintenant les 17 mailles de l'épaule gauche du dos comme indiqué. Pour relier les 2 épaules (cf DOS), tricotez les mailles de l'épaule gauche, puis celles de l'épaule droite. Bon tricot!

SIMONDON 12.03.2018 - 16:12:

Je ne comprends pas le début (épaule droite, dos en XL). En effet pour le rang 2 sur l'endroit : l'emmanchure se trouve au début rang et l'encolure en fin de rang, donc je tricote les 3 premières mailles au point mousse et les 14 suivantes au point jersey ? Merci beaucoup pour votre réponse.

DROPS Design 12.03.2018 kl. 16:29:

Bonjour Mme Simondon, on tricote ici l'épaule droite (celle qui est à droite quand on porte le pull), on va donc commencer sur l'endroit par le côté encolure pour terminer par le côté manche: soit 14 m jersey, et 3 m de bordure au point mousse. Bon tricot!

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