DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 35.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Rose Twist

Jumper with open cable mid front worked top down in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 176-4
DROPS Design: Pattern no. z-790
Yarn group A + A - or C
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-250-300-300-350-350 g colour 3112, dusty pink
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-125-125-150-150 g colour 01, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 5 MM – or the size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows stocking stitch with 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands) on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 MM – for ridge borders and rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for the cable.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 35.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side. Choose the diagram for your size.

INCREASE TIP-1 (for the armholes):
All increases made from the right side.
Increase on the inside of 3 edge stitches in garter stitch along the armholes. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted purl to prevent holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for the sides on the front and back pieces):
All increases made from the right side.
Increase on the inside of 1 edge stitch in garter stitch + 2 stitches stocking stitch (= 3 stitches). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted purl to prevent holes.

INCREASE TIP-3 (for the purl section on each side of the cable mid front):
All increases made from the right side.
Increase 1 stitch in the last purl stitch before the stocking stitch on the left hand side of the piece (seen from the right side) and increase 1 stitch in the first purl stitch after the stocking stitch on the right hand side of the piece (seen from the right side). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 purl both in the front and back of the same stitch.

DECREASE TIP-1 (for the purl section on each side of the cable mid front):
All decreases made from the right side.
Decrease outermost in the purl sections (i.e. out towards the sides). Decrease 1 stitch by purling 2 stitches together.

DECREASE TIP-2 (for mid under sleeve):
Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).
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JUMPER:
Front and back pieces are worked back and forth, with circular needle, in parts.

BACK PIECE:
Start with the right shoulder (when the garment is worn), then work the left shoulder before casting on stitches for the neck and working across all the stitches.

RIGHT SHOULDER BACK (when the garment is worn):
Cast on 17-18-19-17-18-19 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm and 1 strand Alpaca + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Knit 1 row (row 1 = wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side (i.e. from the neck): 14-15-16-14-15-16 stitches stocking stitch, 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole. Work back from the wrong side with garter stitch over garter stitch and purl over purl, in addition cast on 1 new stitch at the end of the row towards the neck. Knit 1 row from the right side. Work back from the wrong side with garter stitch over garter stitch and purl over purl, in addition cast on 26-26-26-32-32-32 new stitches at the end of the row = 44-45-46-50-51-52 stitches on the needle. Lay the piece to one side and work the left shoulder back.

LEFT SHOULDER BACK (when the garment is worn):
Cast on 17-18-19-17-18-19 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). Knit 1 row (row 1 = wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side (i.e. from the armhole): 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, work 14-15-16-14-15-16 stitches stocking stitch, in addition cast on 1 new stitch at the end of the row towards the neck = 18-19-20-18-19-20 stitches on the needle. Work back from the wrong side with purl over purl and garter stitch over garter stitch. On the next row from the right side work the left and right shoulders together to the back piece as follows:

BACK PIECE:
Start with the stitches from the left shoulder, work 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole, work stocking stitch across the remaining stitches on the left shoulder, continue with stocking stitch across the stitches from the right shoulder until there are 3 stitches left, finish with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole = 62-64-66-68-70-72 stitches on the needle. Continue back and forth with stocking stitch and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the piece measures 16-16-16-15-13-11 cm increase 1 stitch in each side for the armhole – READ INCREASE TIP-1. Increase in this way every 2nd row (i.e. every row from the right side) in total 2-3-5-7-10-13 times, then cast on 3-4-5-6-7-8 new stitches at the end of the next 2 rows = 72-78-86-94-104-114 stitches on the needle. 
Work stocking stitch with 6-7-8-9-10-11 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side. When you have worked 1 ridge over the outermost 6-7-8-9-10-11 stitches in each side continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side.
When the piece measures 28-30-31-32-33-34 cm from the shoulder increase 1 stitch in each side – READ INCREASE TIP-2. Increase in this way every 2½-2½-2½-2-2-2 cm in total 8-9-9-10-10-12 times in each side = 88-96-104-114-124-138 stitches.
Continue until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder and down (adjust so that the next row is worked from the right side). Change to circular needle size 4 mm and work 2 ridges back and forth across all stitches. Change back to circular needle size 5 mm and cast off (make sure the cast-off edge is not tight).

FRONT PIECE:
Start with the left shoulder, cast on stitches for the neck, then work the right shoulder before working across all the stitches.

LEFT SHOULDER FRONT (when the garment is worn):
Cast on 17-18-19-17-18-19 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). Knit 1 row (row 1 = wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side (i.e. from the neck): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 13-14-15-13-14-15 stitches stocking stitch, 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole. Continue back and forth with stocking stitch, 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the neck. When the piece measures 3 cm cast on new stitches towards the neck at the end of every row from the wrong side as follows: Cast on 1 stitch 3 times, 2 stitches 1 time and 18-18-18-24-24-24 stitches 1 time (the increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch) = 40-41-42-46-47-48 stitches on the needle. After the last stitches have been cast on, lay the piece to one side. Work the right shoulder front.

RIGHT SHOULDER FRONT (when the garment is worn):
Cast on 17-18-19-17-18-19 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). Knit 1 row (row 1 = wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side (i.e. from the armhole): 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, 13-14-15-13-14-15 stitches stocking stitch, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the neck. Continue back and forth with stocking stitch, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the neck and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole. When the piece measures 4 cm cast on new stitches towards the neck at the end of each row from the right side as follows: Cast on 1 stitch 3 times and 2 stitches 1 time = 22-23-24-22-23-24 stitches. After the last stitches have been cast on, work back from the wrong side with purl over purl and garter stitch over garter stitch. On the next row from the right side work the right and left shoulders together to the front piece as follows:

FRONT PIECE:
Place the stitches from the right and left shoulders on the same circular needle size 5 mm without working the stitches = 62-64-66-68-70-72 stitches on the needle. Insert 1 marker thread after 31-32-33-34-35-36 stitches and let the marker thread follow in piece (= mid front).
READ ALL OF THE NEXT PARAGRAPH BEFORE CONTINUING!
The next row is worked from the right side as follows: 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole, stocking stitch until there are 11-11-11-14-14-14 stitches left before the marker thread, 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches purl, knit 2 stitches in each of the next 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches (= 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches increased), 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches purl, stocking stitch until there are 3 stitches left on the needle and finish with 3 edge stitches garter stitch towards the armhole = 68-70-72-76-78-80 stitches on the needle. Work back from the wrong side with garter stitch over garter stitch, purl over purl and knit over knit (the middle 12-12-12-16-16-16 stitches are worked purl).
OPEN CABLE: The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, stocking stitch until there are 14-14-14-18-18-18 stitches left before the marker thread, 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches purl, place the next 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches on the cable needle behind the piece, knit 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches, knit 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches from the cable needle, purl 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches, stocking stitch until there are 3 stitches left on the needle 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. Now divide the piece mid front as follows: Place half of the stitches (i.e. 34-35-36-38-39-40 stitches) in the right hand side of the piece (seen from the right side) on a thread = 34-35-36-38-39-40 stitches left on the needle.
Continue back and forth across all the stitches in the left side of the piece with garter stitch over garter stitch, purl over purl and knit over knit – the outermost stitch towards mid front is now worked in garter stitch. AT THE SAME TIME every 2nd row (i.e. each row from the right side) decrease 1 stitch in the purl section – READ DECREASE TIP-1 until there are 4-4-4-5-5-5 purl stitches left. Work 3 rows back and forth without decreases in the purl section. Then increase 1 stitch in the purl section every 2nd row (i.e. every row from the right side) – READ INCREASE TIP-3 until there are 8-8-8-10-10-10 purl stitches.
ARMHOLE: AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 16-16-16-15-13-11 cm increase for the armhole in the side in the same way as for the back piece.
When 1 row is worked back from the wrong side after the last stitch has been increased in the purl section, leave the stitches on the left side of the piece. Place the stitches from the thread in the right side of the piece back on the circular needle size 5 mm and work in the same way but with decreases and increases in the purl section in the opposite side. When 1 row has been worked back from the wrong side after all the stitches have been increased in the purl section, put the cable together.
OPEN CABLE PUT TOGETHER:
Work from the right side as before across the stitches in the right side of the piece until there are 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches left on the needle, place these 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches on the cable needle behind the piece and knit the 6-6-6-8-8-8 first stitches in the left side of the piece, knit the 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches from the cable needle and continue as before across the remaining stitches in the left side of the piece. Now divide the piece mid front again and half the stitches, i.e. the stitches in the right hand side of the piece as far as the marker thread (seen from the right side) are placed on 1 thread.
READ THE REST OF THE FRONT PIECE BEFORE CONTINUING!

CABLE:
* Continue across the stitches in the left side of the piece, with garter stitch over garter stitch and purl over purl until there are 14-14-14-18-18-18 stitches left before the marker thread mid front, work A.1B over these stitches – NOTE: row 1 = the wrong side and the diagram is read from left to right. Work 2 more rows of A.1B across the outermost stitches towards mid front, stocking stitch and garter stitch towards the armhole and decrease as shown in the diagram (when working from the right side, read the diagram from right to left). Now place the stitches on 1 thread. Cut the strand and work 3 rows in the same way across the stitches in the right side of the piece – i.e. start mid front, work the first row from the wrong side with A.1A across the outermost 14-14-14-18-18-18 stitches towards mid front (row 1 = the wrong side and the diagram is read from left to right).
Place the stitches from the thread in the left side of the piece on the needle (without working the stitches). Work from the right side as before across the stitches in the right side of the piece until there are 13-13-13-17-17-17 stitches left before the marker thread, work A.2 across the next 26-26-26-34-34-34 stitches (the marker thread sits in the middle of A.2) and continue as before across the remaining stitches in the left side of the piece. Continue the pattern as follows, decrease and increase as shown in the diagram. When A.2 has been completed 1 time in height, divide the piece mid front again and half the stitches, i.e. the stitches in the right side of the piece are placed on 1 thread. Work 3 rows across the stitches in the left side of the piece with garter stitch over garter stitch, stocking stitch over stocking stitch and A.3B over the outermost stitches towards mid front, increase as shown in the diagram. Now place the stitches on 1 thread. Cut the strand and work 3 rows in the same way across the stitches in the right side of the piece – i.e. start mid front, work the first row from the wrong side with A.3A over the outermost 13-13-13-17-17-17 stitches towards mid front.
Place the stitches from the thread in the left side of the piece back on the needle (without working the stitches). Work from the right side as before across the stitches in the right side of the piece until there are 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches left before the marker thread, place these 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches on the cable needle behind the piece, knit the next 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches. Place the stitches on the right-hand needle on 1 thread. Knit the 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches on the cable needle and work as before to the end of the needle *.
Repeat the whole paragraph from *-* in total 3 times in height.

INCREASES IN THE SIDES: AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 28-30-31-32-33-34 cm from the shoulder increase 1 stitch in each side – READ INCREASE TIP-2. Increase in this way every 2½-2½-2½-2-2-2 cm in total 8-9-9-10-10-12 times in each side.

When the last repetition with the cable is complete and the increases in the sides are finished, the piece is again divided in the middle and the stitches on the right side of the piece are placed on 1 thread. Continue across the stitches in the left side of the piece with knit over knit, purl over purl and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. AT THE SAME TIME decrease in the purl section in the same way as during the cable, but decrease every 4th row (instead of every 2nd row) in total 6-6-6-7-7-7 times. After all the increases and decreases there are 41-45-49-54-59-66 stitches on the needle in the left side of the piece. Continue working until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder and down (adjust so the next row is worked from the right side). Change to circular needle size 4 mm and work 2 ridges back and forth across all the stitches. Change back to circular needle size 5 mm and cast off (make sure the cast-off edge is not tight).
Work in the same way across the stitches in the right side of the piece, but with the decreases in the opposite side.

SLEEVE:
The sleeve is worked from the top down. Work the sleeve cap back and forth on circular needle, then work the sleeve in the round on a short circular needle/double pointed needles to finished length.
Cast on 20-24-24-24-24-24 stitches on a short circular needle size 5 mm with 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). Work stocking stitch back and forth and cast on new stitches for the sleeve cap at the end of each row in each side as follows: Cast on 3 stitches 1 time in all sizes, 2 stitches 3-3-2-2-1-1 times, 1 stitch 2-2-3-4-7-9 times, 2 stitches 2-2-3-3-3-3 times and 3-4-5-6-7-8 stitches 1 time = 56-62-66-70-74-80 stitches on the needle. The piece now measures approx. 8-8-9-10-12-14 cm. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the row (= mid under sleeve). Continue to work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 2 cm from the marker thread decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – READ DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease in this way every 3-2½-2-2-1½-1½ cm in total 12-14-15-16-17-19 times = 32-34-36-38-40-42 stitches. When the piece measures 37-37-37-36-35-33 cm from the marker thread (the whole sleeve measures approx. 45-45-46-46-47-47 cm from the top down), knit 1 round where you increase 8-6-12-10-8-14 stitches evenly along the round = 40-40-48-48-48-56 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Work rib in the round (= knit 4 / purl 4). When the rib measures 10 cm cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – NOTE: It is important that the cast-off edge is not tight. To prevent this you can make 1 yarn over after every 4th stitch (yarn overs cast off as other stitches). The sleeve measures approx. 55-55-56-56-57-57 cm from the cast-on edge and down. Work another sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the cast-on edge. Sew the side seams from the armhole and down inside 1 edge stitch in each side. Sew in the sleeves – the ridge edge along the armholes should lie out on the sleeve (i.e. let the ridge edge lie a little over the edge of the sleeve cap).

NECKLINE:
Knit up from the right side approx. 74 to 84 stitches around the neck with a short circular needle size 4 mm and 1 strand of each quality. Purl 1 round, knit 1 round and purl 1 round before loosely casting off in knit.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = purl 1 front and back in same stitch (= 1 stitch increased)
symbols = Purl 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased)
symbols = knitting direction
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
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Comments / Questions (124)

country flag HEIN wrote:

Merci beaucoup pour votre réponse mais quand je fais un pull avec deux aiguilles, je le commence par le bas donc là avec ces explications pas facile à réaliser ;-) Bien cordialement

22.02.2024 - 17:53

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Hein, si vous préférez tricoter votre pull de bas en haut, retrouvez ici tous les modèles correspondants; n'hésitez pas à ajouter des filtres supplémentaires pour affiner votre recherche. Bon tricot!

23.02.2024 - 08:03

country flag HEIN wrote:

Bonjour, je ne maîtrise pas du tout le tricot avec aiguilles circulaires. Auriez-vous les explications d'un montage normal ? Au secours ! un grand merci ;-) Bien à vous.

22.02.2024 - 10:05

country flag HEIN wrote:

Bonjour, je ne maîtrise pas du tout le tricot avec aiguilles circulaires. Auriez-vous les explications d'un montage normal ? Au secours ! un grand merci ;-) Bien à vous.

22.02.2024 - 10:05

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Hein, le dos et le devant se tricotent ici en allers et retours sur aiguille circulaire pour avoir suffisamment de place pour y loger toutes les mailles; vous pouvez donc utiliser des aiguilles droites, vos mailles seront juste plus serrées. Pour les manches, cette leçon devrait pouvoir vous aider à faire les ajustements nécessaires. Bon tricot!

22.02.2024 - 14:54

country flag Marianne Jensen wrote:

Hej, Skal der også slås 3 nye masker op i slutningen af pinden 2 gange på forstykket, som man gør på bagstykket (udtagningen ved 16 cm) , således at man ender med 78 masker på forstykket?

04.01.2024 - 11:38

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Marianne, ja, men halsudskæringen skal være dybere, så du slår først de nye masker op efter 3 cm ifølge opskriften :)

09.01.2024 - 15:13

country flag Dorrit wrote:

Hallo, in der Beschreibung steht bei “LINKE SCHULTER VORNE… Bei einer Länge von 3 cm neue Maschen für den Halsausschnitt…” hingegen für die “ RECHTE SCHULTER VORNE… Bei einer Länge von 4 cm neue Maschen für den Halsausschnitt…” Wird der Halsausschnitt dann nicht schief, wenn einmal nach 3 cm und auf der anderen Seite erst nach 4 cm die Maschen angeschlagen werden? Vielen Dank.

24.11.2023 - 20:50

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Dorrit, damit beide Schulter gleiche Länge am Ende haben, soll man nach 3 cm beim linken Schulter und nach 4 cm beim rechten Schulter zunehmen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

27.11.2023 - 08:08

country flag Dorrit wrote:

Hallo, ich würde den Pullover gern mit Drops Belle in Größe M stricken. (entsprechend den Maßen, also natürlich mehr Maschen pro cm). Können Sie mir sagen, wieviel Wolle ich ca. dafür benötige? Vielen lieben Dank.

02.09.2023 - 09:00

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Dorit, leider wird Belle dafür keine Alternative - hier wird entweder 2 Fäden Garngruppe A (Alpaca und Kid-Silk) oder 1 Faden Garngruppe C (siehe Garnumrechnter), dann sollen Sie sich am besten einen Pullover von der Garngruppe B entscheiden. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

04.09.2023 - 09:22

country flag Guylaine Rondeau wrote:

Pour le modèle 176-4 lorsque je tricote la 2e torsade ... les diminutions se font à partir du côté intérieur après les 6 mailles centrales ou bien à l extérieur (côté bordure) soit à partir de la 7e et 8e mailles envers...merci

11.06.2023 - 14:12

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Rondeau, les diminutions de chaque côté de la torsade se font dans les mailles envers, avant et après la torsade, et se font côté jersey et non pas côté torsade. Bon tricot!

12.06.2023 - 09:00

country flag Renee GENTRY wrote:

I purchased the Alpaca yarn previously, and have chosen to use it for this sweater. Do I need to have the Kid-Silk to make it??

15.01.2022 - 20:56

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Renee, you can work with 2 threads of Alpaca (so you will need double the amount stated) or you use 1 thread of Alpaca and 1 of Kid-Silk, but you will need to buy the Kid-Silk yarn. Happy knitting!

16.01.2022 - 21:19

country flag Melanie wrote:

Bonjour pour le montage des mailles au niveau du dos 3 mailles à la fin du rang : c est après les 3 points mousses ou après ? Merci 🤩

19.12.2021 - 13:39

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mélanie, quand on monte des mailles, c'est toujours en fin de rang (comme on le montre dans cette vidéo en fin de rang sur l'envers par exemple). Bon tricot!

20.12.2021 - 07:51

country flag Antonina wrote:

Buongiorno, sto realizzando il maglione con i filati consigliati. Non riesco però a capire l'esecuzione della treccia chiusa, non è la solita. In particolare, non capisco perché lavorare in alcuni punti due parti separatamente tagliando il filo. Purtroppo non ho trovato un tutorial specifico, solo quello delle trecce tradizionali e della treccia aperta. Se poteste indicarmelo o darmi ulteriori spiegazioni, grazie.

28.11.2021 - 11:13

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Antonina, non ci sono tutorial per questa treccia al momento: deve procedere a lavorare come indicato. Buon lavoro!

08.12.2021 - 19:39