DROPS / 176 / 3

Roseanne by DROPS Design

Fitted jacket knitted with raglan and cables, worked top down in DROPS Paris. Size S-XXXL.

  • Roseanne / DROPS 176-3 - Fitted jacket knitted with raglan and cables, worked top down in DROPS Paris. Size S-XXXL.
  • Roseanne / DROPS 176-3 - Fitted jacket knitted with raglan and cables, worked top down in DROPS Paris. Size S-XXXL.
  • Roseanne / DROPS 176-3 - Fitted jacket knitted with raglan and cables, worked top down in DROPS Paris. Size S-XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern w-649
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
550-600-650-700-800-850 g colour 58, powder pink

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 5 mm – or size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm for garter stitch – or size needed to get 18 stitches and 23 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 522: 6-6-6-7-7-7 pieces
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Cotton
from 0.65 £ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 0.75 £ /50g
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DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 0.65 £ /50g
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.15£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1:
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 98 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 8 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 12) = 7.5. In this example increase after alternately approx. every 7th and 8th stitch. Do not increase over bands. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on next row work yarn over twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN FOR FRONT AND BACK PIECE:
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase first 2 stitches before A.2 on left front piece, after A.2 and before A.2 on back piece and after A.2 on right front piece as follows: Increase 2 stitches before A.2 by working until 1 stitch remains before A.2, make 1 yarn over, knit 1, make 1 yarn over.
Increase 2 stitches after A.2 by making 1 yarn over, knit 1, make 1 yarn over (= 8 stitches increased in total). On next row purl yarn overs closest A.2 to make holes. Purl the other yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

Then increase 1 stitch at A.2 on each front piece and 1 stitch in each side at A.2 on back piece as follows: Increase 1 stitch before or after A.2 by making a yarn over (= 4 stitches increased in total). On next row purl yarn over to make holes.

RAGLAN SLEEVE:
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase 1 stitch in each side on sleeves, i.e. after and before A.2 (= 2 stitches increased on each sleeve). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on next row purl yarns over to make holes.

KNITTING TIP:
When increasing for raglan every 4th row, work a hole before or after A.2 on row from right side without decrease as follows:
Before A.2: Begin 2 stitch before A.2, knit 2 together and make 1 yarn over.
After A.2: Make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.
On next row purl yarn overs to make holes.

DECREASE TIP-1 (applies to sides of body):
All decreases are done from the right side.
Work until 3 stitches remain before marker and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker is between these 4 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to mid under sleeve):
Work until 2 stitches remain before A.2, knit 2 together, work A.2, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to purl sections on body):
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over in transition between knit and purl. On next row (wrong side) knit yarn over twisted to avoid hole. Purl increased stitches from right side and knit from wrong side.

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). 1 buttonhole = work from right side until 4 stitches remain on needle, knit 2 together, make 1 yarn over and knit the last 2 stitches. On next row knit yarn over to make holes.
Decrease for first buttonhole on first row from right side after ridges in neck. Then decrease the next 5-5-5-6-6-6 buttonholes, approx. 9-9-9-8-8-9 cm between each.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Work top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on 98-100-100-104-110-110 stitches (including 4 band stitches in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Paris. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. AT THE SAME TIME on third row (= right side) increase 12-14-14-14-16-16 stitches evenly – READ INCREASE TIP-1 = 110-114-114-118-126-126 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Work next row as follows from right side - remember BUTTONHOLES on band - see explanation above: 4 band stitches in garter stitch, purl 1, work A.1 (= 4 stitches on first row) 2-2-2-2-3-3 times in total, purl 1, knit 1-2-2-3-1-1 (= left front piece), A.2 (= 8 stitches on first row), knit 12 (= left sleeve), A.2 (= 8 stitches), knit 1-2-2-3-1-1, purl 1, work A.1 5-5-5-5-7-7 times in total, purl 1, knit 1-2-2-3-1-1 (= back piece), A.2, knit 12 (= right sleeve), A.2, knit 1-2-2-3-1-1, purl 1, work A.1 2-2-2-2-3-3 times in total, purl 1 and 4 band stitches in garter stitch. Work back from wrong side with knit over knit, purl over purl and garter stitch over garter stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION
Continue back and forth like this. AT THE SAME TIME on first row from right side begin increase for RAGLAN – see explanation above. NOTE: Increase differently on front/back piece and sleeves as follows:

FRONT AND BACK PIECE:
Read RAGLAN FOR FRONT AND BACK PIECE. Increase 2 stitches every other row (i.e. on every row from right side) 1-2-2-3-3-6 times in total, then increase 1 stitch on every other row 16-17-19-21-23-22 times in total.

SLEEVES:
Read RAGLAN SLEEVE. Increase 1 stitch every other row a 11-17-19-20-18-20 times in total, and then on every 4th row 3-1-1-2-4-4 times in total - READ KNITTING TIP.

After last increase for raglan there are 238-270-286-314-330-358 stitches on needle. Work next row as follows from wrong side: Work the first 37-41-43-48-52-57 stitches as before (= right front piece), slip the next 48-56-60-64-64-68 stitches on a stitch holder (= right sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on needle (= in the side on body), work the next 68-76-80-90-98-108 stitches as before (= back piece), slip the next 48-56-60-64-64-68 stitches on a stitch holder (= left sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve) and work the remaining 37-41-43-48-52-57 stitches as before (= left front piece). Piece now measures 16-18-20-22-24-26 cm from cast-on edge mid front and approx. 22-24-26-28-30-32 cm from shoulder and down. Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 154-170-182-202-222-242 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches cast on under each sleeve and move the marker threads upwards when working. Continue pattern back and forth as before, work the new stitches that where cast on in stocking stitch.
When piece measures 4 cm, decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - READ DECREASE TIP-1 (= 4 stitches decreased). Repeat decrease when piece measures 10 cm from division.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 6 cm, decrease in every purl section between 2 cables (decrease 1 stitch by purling 2 together) = 6-6-6-6-10-10 stitches decreased (i.e. 1-1-1-1-2-2 stitches on each front piece and 4-4-4-4-6-6 stitches on back piece).

When all decreases are done, there are 140-156-168-188-204-224 stitches on needle. When piece measures 16 cm from division, increase 1 stitch in every purl section between cables decreased earlier – READ INCREASE TIP-2 (= 6-6-6-6-10-10 stitches increased) = 146-162-174-194-214-234 stitches.
On next row from right side increase 1 purl on each side of each cable (= 18-18-18-18-26-26 stitches increased). Repeat increase on each side of every cable every 3 cm 5 times in total = 236-252-264-284-344-364 stitches. When all increases are done, continue pattern back and forth without decreases and increases. When piece measures approx. 31 cm from division - finish after 4th or 8th row in diagram, work 2 rows in stocking stitch back and forth with 4 band stitches in garter stitch in each side. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work 3 ridges, switch back to circular needle size 5 mm and cast off with circular needle size 5 mm.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 48-56-60-64-64-68 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 5 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 54-62-68-72-74-78 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches under sleeve and move the marker thread upwards when working.
Work in stocking stitch in the round and A.2 over the middle stitches under sleeve (A.2 is 8 stitches on first row). When piece measures 2-2-2-2-3-3 cm, decrease 1 stitch on each side of A.2 - READ DECREASE TIP-2 (= 2 stitches decreased). Decrease 9-13-15-16-16-17 times in total in S: On every 6th round, in M: On every 4th round, in L + XL: On every 3rd round, in XXL + XXXL: On every other round = 36-36-38-40-42-44 stitches. When sleeve measures 28-26-25-24-22-22 cm from division, switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm. Work 3 ridges, switch back to double pointed needles size 5 mm and cast off with double pointed needles size 5 mm. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = knit 3, use left needle and pass first stitch worked over the other 2 so that this stitch is around the 2 last stitches on right needle (= 1 stitch decreased)
symbols = no stitch, skip this square
symbols = knitting direction
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 176-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (39)

country flag Esther 07.11.2020 - 11:15:

Hallo es scheint ja offenbar wirklich nicht einfach zu sein, diese Anleitung umzusetzen. wir haben schon Stunden damit verbracht, das alles zu verstehen. gibt es da evtl. eine neuere Version oder Korrekturen? wir vermuten auch, dass da noch ein Fehler drin ist. danke für die Rückantwort schon im Voraus

user icon DROPS Design 09.11.2020 kl. 09:54:

Liebe Esther, können Sie uns bitte mehr sagen, welche Größe stricken Sie? Wo genau haben Sie Schwierigkeiten? An welche Stelle von der Anleitung/Diagram? Haben Sie die Videos (= z.B Wie man diese Zöpfe strickt)/Lektion gesehen?

country flag Maicen 11.03.2019 - 11:41:

Hej! Gällande första varvet på oket: ska A2 stickas på höger framstycke men ej på vänster framstycke? Det står konstigt i beskrivningen som att A2 bara ska stickas på höger framstycke. Gällande ökningstips 2: Vad menas med de aviga partierna på fram och bakstycke?

user icon DROPS Design 14.03.2019 kl. 10:03:

Hej. A.2 stickas innan och efter de de slätstickade maskorna på ärmen så det blir riktigt om du följer mönstret (ser att det är otydligt vad som tillhör framstycke och vad som tillhör ärm). De aviga partierna vi menar är de mellan flätorna. Lycka till!

country flag Elisabeth Bourguignon 30.05.2018 - 15:27:

Est-il possible de le tricoter sans le motif, juste en jersey endroit, avec les augmentations bien évidemment? Merci de me répondre.

user icon DROPS Design 30.05.2018 kl. 16:17:

Bonjour Mme Bourguignon, le nombre de mailles est calculé également avec les mailles point fantaisie des devants, des raglans et du dos, il vous faudra peut-être faire quelques ajustements ou regarder parmi nos autres modèles de gilets raglan. Bon tricot!

country flag Elisabeth Bourguignon 30.05.2018 - 15:17:

Est-ce-que j\'ai bien compris? Le travail est partagé ainsi : les devants gauche et droit se tricotent sur 16 mailles chacun, les 2 manches sur 20 mailles chacune et le dos sur 42 mailles pour le premier rang. Ce qui fait 114 mailles. C\'est bien ça? Dommage que ce ne soit pas précisé dès le départ!

user icon DROPS Design 30.05.2018 kl. 16:15:

Bonjour Mme Bourguignon, pas tout à fait, car on a entre chaque pièce devant/manche et manche/dos les mailles du raglan soit A.2 (= 8 m au 1er rang). A.2 se tricote après les mailles du devant gauche, avant et après les manches et le dos et avant le devant droit. Les augmentations du raglan vont se faire ainsi soit avant soit après A.2 (cf augmentations raglan). Bon tricot!

country flag Fabienne 03.02.2018 - 17:51:

Bonjour Et ma seconde question concernant A2 toujours : pour le devant et le dos je crois comprendre qu'on arrête net le motif A2 et on continue en jersey. Est ce correct ? mais là aussi il me semble que ce n'est pas très joli de l'arrêter net. Merci encore de votre aide, Fabienne

user icon DROPS Design 05.02.2018 kl. 09:06:

Bonjour Fabienne, tout à fait, comme on le voit sur la photo, on ne tricote plus A.2 sur les côtés après la séparation des manches et du dos/des devants (juste au milieu sous la manche). Bon tricot!

country flag Fabienne 03.02.2018 - 17:48:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas comment démarrer A2 sous les manches après la séparation manches/corps. En effet on a : un demi motif A2 qui vent du devant (4 mailles) + 6 mailles que l'on doit rajouter + un demi motif A2 qui vient du dos (4 mailles) =14 mailles. Mais le motif A2 est de 8 mailles et non 14, il faut donc casser les 2 demi motif A2 et en recréer un qui ne sera pas aligné avec le dessus. Est ce correct? Ceci ne me semble pas esthétique... Merci ! Fabienne

user icon DROPS Design 05.02.2018 kl. 09:05:

Bonjour Fabienne, sous la manche, on va tricoter A.2 au-dessus des 6 m montées + 1 m de chaque côté = 8 m. On ne continue pas les A.2 de l'empiècement. Bon tricot!

country flag Kariweggersen 11.01.2018 - 15:26:

Hei. Jeg prøver igjen. Ut i fra mønstre skal jeg stikke A 2 på begge sider av armene. A 2 følger med helt til jeg skal dele opp til ermene o.s.v.d. De er jo også med i maskeantallet på 286 masker. Hva gjør jeg for å avslutte A 2 når jeg setter armmaskene på tråd. Det er mulig jeg har misforstått noe vesentlig. Håper du skjønner nå hva jeg mener😊 hilsen Kari som enda er full av håp 😀

user icon DROPS Design 12.01.2018 kl. 07:57:

Hei Kari, Du avslutter ikke A.2 når du setter maskene på en tråd. A.2 fortsetter etterpå når du strikker ermene. Håper dette hjelper og god fornøyelse!

country flag Kari Weggersen 08.01.2018 - 19:28:

Det er litt vanskelig og formidle problemet med skriving,men prøver igjen. Jeg har 286 masker og skal ha 43 masker på forstykket og sette av 60 masker til armene. Inne i det maskeantallet kommer A2 som er strikket foran og bak armene. Hva gjør jeg for å avslutte de 8 maskene. Det må være noe som mangler i oppskriften. Har lest om igjen mange ganger, men kan ikke finne noen forklaring på akkurat det. Håper jeg snart klarer å knekke koden. Kari😊

user icon DROPS Design 11.01.2018 kl. 13:48:

Hei Kari. Hei igjen. Litt usikker på hva du mener med «å avslutte de 8 maskene». Når du har satt erm masken på en tråd og lagt opp 8+8 nye masker, skal du ha 43+8+80+8+43 = 182 masker på pinnen. De 8 nye maskene i hver siden (under ermene) strikkes videre i glattstrikk, men når arbeidet måler 4 cm felles det 1 maske på hver side av begge merketrådene. Les videre på oppskriften. Håper du forstår, hvis ikke skriv inn igjen. Lykke til!

country flag Kari Weggersen 04.01.2018 - 19:24:

Takk for svar. Jeg har fått med meg at det er forskjell på økningene. Jeg skal starte med 12 masker til armene og øke 2 masker 19 ganger og 2 masker en gang. Da får ikke jeg 60 masker som det står i oppskriften. Skjønner heller ikke hva jeg gjør med A 2 under armene. Nå er det tredje gangen jeg prøver. Liker jakken veldig godt, men trot jeg snart må gi opp. Kari Weggersen

user icon DROPS Design 05.01.2018 kl. 09:39:

Hei igjen. Du skal ikke ha 60 ermmasker, men du skal sette 60 masker til ett erme på 1 tråd. Når du er ferdig med alle raglanøkningene skal du ha 286 masker på pinnen. Fra vrangen skal du nå strikke de første 43 masker som før, sett de neste 60 maskene på en trå. Legg opp 8 nye masker og følg videre på oppskriften til BOL. ERME: Du har lagt opp 8 nye masker under ermet (sett en marketråd midt i de 8 maskene). På neste omgang strikkes det opp 1 ny maske i hver av de 8 nye maskene (=16 masker), men merketråden er fremdeles i midten av disse 16 maskene og A.2 strikkes i de 8 midterste maskene. God fornøyelse, håper du ikke gir opp 

country flag Kari Weggersen 02.01.2018 - 10:14:

Det gjelder innsvinget jakke med raglan og fletter strikket ovenfra og ned. Har kommet til der armene skal settes av. Får ikke maskeantallet til å stemme,og lurer på hva jeg gjør for å avslutte A2. Hilsen Kari😊

user icon DROPS Design 04.01.2018 kl. 07:51:

Hei Kari. Det er litt vanskelig å vite hvorfor du får feil maskeantall med den informasjonen du har oppgitt. Husk det er forskjellig økninger på raglan for for-og bakstykket og økning på ermene, både antall økte masker og på hvilken omganger det skal økes. Husk å lese godt på øketips for RAGLAN FOR- OG BAKSTYKKE, RAGLAN ERME og STRIKKETIPS før du starter. Avhengig av hvilken str du strikker skal du ha etter alle økningene i raglan ha: 238-270-286-314-330-358 masker på pinnen. God Fornøyelse!

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