DROPS / 176 / 7

Vanilla Cream by DROPS Design

Jacket with lace pattern on the yoke, raglan, ¾-length sleeves and A-shape, worked top down in DROPS Alpaca. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no z-780
Yarn group A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-300-350-400-400-450 g colour 2110, wheat
50-50-50-100-100-100 g colour 101, white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 80 cm) SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height. And 20 stitches and 48 rows textured pattern (A.1) on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM – for the garter stitch borders around sleeves and neck.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Flower (white) NO. 600: 5 items for all sizes.
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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 2.25 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 2.25 £ /50g
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 2.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.75£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (for the neckline):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 124 stitches), minus the bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches with the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 10) = 11.4. In this example, increase after alternately every approx. 11th and 12th stitch. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on the next row knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes. If you are decreasing, knit alternately every approx.10th and 11th stitch together. Do not increase/decrease over the bands.

ELEVATION:
Start from the right side and knit the first 72-74-79-82-87-91 stitches, insert a marker (= mid back), knit the next 7-7-7-8-8-9 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 14-14-14-16-16-18 stitches from the wrong side. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 21-21-21-24-24-27 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 28-28-28-32-32-36 stitches. Continue back and forth in stocking stitch in this way, working 7-7-7-8-8-9 more stitches each time until you have worked over the middle 70-70-70-80-80-90 stitches, purl to end of row.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.


RAGLAN:
Increase to raglan in each transition between body and sleeves. All increases are from the right side. The increases are different on body and sleeves as described in the text.
Increase as follows before the marker: Start 1 stitch before the marker, make 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), knit 1.
Increase as follows after the marker: Knit 1, make 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased).
On the next row (wrong side) work the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes, work the new stitches into pattern A.1 as you go.

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for the buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side until there are 3 stitches left on the needle, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row knit the yarn over to allow a hole. The first buttonhole is made on the first row from the right side after the garter stitch border in the neck. The 4 others are made with approx. 8-8-9-9-10-10 cm between each.

INCREASE TIP (for the sides in the body):
Increase on each side of the stitch with the marker thread as follows: make 1 yarn over, knit the stitch with the marker thread, make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn overs to allow holes.

DECREASE TIP (for mid under the sleeve):
Start 3 stitches before the stitch with the marker thread, knit 2 together, work A.2 (= 3 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).
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JACKET:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front and top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular/double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on 124-128-136-140-146-152 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 2.5 mm and white. Work 5 RIDGES – see description above. On the 7th row (= right side) increase 10-10-11-12-14-15 stitches evenly along the row – READ INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 134-138-147-152-160-167 stitches. Increase in the same way on the 9th row = 144-148-158-164-174-182 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3 mm.
To get a better shape you can now work a small ELEVATION at the back of the neck – see description above. When the elevation is finished, knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 22-22-24-26-28-28 stitches evenly along the row – READ INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 122-126-134-138-146-154 stitches – remember the BUTTONHOLES on the right band – see description above. Work back from the wrong side with 5 band stitches in garter stitch and purl over purl. Insert 4 markers in the piece as follows (without working the stitches): 1st marker inserted after the first 23-24-26-27-29-31 stitches (= left front piece), 2nd marker inserted after the next 20 stitches (= left sleeve), 3rd marker inserted after the next 36-38-42-44-48-52 stitches (= back piece) and 4th marker inserted after the next 20 stitches (= right sleeve), there are now 23-24-26-27-29-31 stitches left after the last marker on the right front piece.
READ THE WHOLE OF THE FOLLOWING DESCRIPTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Work A.1 back and forth with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side and 4 stitches stocking stitch in each transition between body and sleeves (2 stitches on each side of each marker). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side in A.1 increase to RAGLAN – see description above. The increases are different on body and sleeves as follows:
FRONT AND BACK PIECES: Increase every 2nd row (i.e. every row from the right side) 15-15-12-14-19-19 times, then every 4th row (i.e. every other row from the right side) 9-12-15-17-16-19 times (= in total 24-27-27-31-35-38 times).
SLEEVES: Increase every 2nd row 5-7-12-8-9-5 times, then every 4th row 14-16-15-20-21-26 times (= in total 19-23-27-28-30-31 times).
The increased stitches are worked into A.1 as you go, i.e. the 4 stitches in each raglan line are always worked in stocking stitch.
AT THE SAME TIME when 7-7-8-8-9-9 repeats in height of A.1 are complete, change to wheat (the row with the arrow in the pattern is the last row with white). The piece now measures approx. 11-11-12-12-13-13 cm from the cast-on edge mid front. Continue A.1 with increases to raglan as before. After the last increase to raglan there are 294-326-350-374-406-430 stitches on the needle. On the next row from the right side after the last increase to raglan work as follows (do not increase on the bands or the 4 stitches in each raglan line): Knit the first 47-51-53-58-64-69 stitches (= left front piece) and at the same time increase 8-9-10-11-12-13 stitches evenly along these stitches, knit the next 58-66-74-76-80-82 stitches (left sleeve) and at the same time increase 12-14-14-16-16-16 stitches evenly along these stitches, knit the next 84-92-96-106-118-128 stitches (= back piece) and at the same time increase 16-18-20-22-24-26 stitches evenly along these stitches, knit the next 58-66-74-76-80-82 stitches (= right sleeve) and at the same time increase 12-14-14-16-16-16 stitches evenly along these stitches, knit the last 47-51-53-58-64-69 stitches (= right front piece) and at the same time increase 8-9-10-11-12-13 stitches evenly along these stitches. There are now 350-390-418-450-486-514 stitches on the needle and the piece measures approx. 17-19-21-23-25-27 cm from the cast-on edge mid front and approx. 22-24-26-28-30-32 cm from the shoulder and down. The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side: Work the 5 band stitches in garter stitch, purl 50-55-58-64-71-77 stitches (= right front piece), place the next 70-80-88-92-96-98 stitches on 1 thread (= right sleeve), cast on 5-5-7-7-9-11 new stitches under the sleeve (= in the side of the body), purl 100-110-116-128-142-154 stitches (= back piece), place the next 70-80-88-92-96-98 stitches on 1 thread (= left sleeve), cast on 5-5-7-7-9-11 new stitches under the sleeve (= in the side of the body), purl 50-55-58-64-71-77 stitches and work the 5 band stitches in garter stitch (= left front piece). Body and sleeves are now worked separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 220-240-256-280-312-340 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 5-5-7-7-9-11 new stitches under each sleeve and allow the marker threads to follow the work downwards. Continue with wheat and work stocking stitch back and forth with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side. When the piece measures 2 cm increase 1 stitch on each side of the stitches with the marker threads – READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase in this way every 4th row (i.e. every other row from the right side) in total 22 times = 308-328-344-368-400-428 stitches. The piece now measures approx. 28 cm from the separation (if you want the jacket to be longer you can continue the increases in the sides to desired length). Work 4 ridges back and forth over all the stitches (without changing needles). Cast off – to prevent the cast-off edge being tight make 1 yarn over after every 6th stitch AT THE SAME TIME as you cast off (the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches). The whole jacket measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from the shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Continue with wheat, place the 70-80-88-92-96-98 stitches from the thread in the one side of the piece on a short circular needle size 3 mm and in addition knit up 1 stitch in each of the 5-5-7-7-9-11 stitches which were cast on under the sleeve = 75-85-95-99-105-109 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread mid under the sleeve (i.e. in the middle of the 5-5-7-7-9-11 new stitches), allow the marker thread to follow the work in the piece.
Work stocking stitch in the round and A.2 over the middle 3 stitches under the sleeve. When the piece measures 2 cm from the separation decrease 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – READ DECREASE TIP. Decrease in this way every 2nd round in total 3-4-5-6-7-8 times. Then decrease in total 11-14-17-16-17-17 times in S: Every 8th round, in M: Every 6th round, in L and XL: Every 4th round, in XXL and XXXL: Every 3rd round = 47-49-51-55-57-59 stitches. When the piece measures 35-33-31-30-28-26 cm (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke) change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm. Work 4 RIDGES in the round – See description above. Change back to double pointed needles size 3 mm and cast off. The sleeve measures approx. 37-35-33-32-30-28 cm from the separation. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
= knit 2 together, make 1 yarn over
= make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the stitches which were knitted together, make 1 yarn over
= knitting direction

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 176-7) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (18)

Heidi Brestrup 31.03.2019 - 10:50:

Jeg skjønner ikke når vi skal strikke A2

DROPS Design 05.04.2019 kl. 15:31:

Hej Heidi, du strikker efter A.2 på ærmerne. God fornøjelse!

Heidi Brestrup 31.03.2019 - 10:49:

Jeg finner ikke ut av når jeg skal strikke A2

DROPS Design 07.05.2019 kl. 11:41:

Hej Heidi, du strikker A.2 over de midterste 3 masker under ærmet. God fornøjelse!

Martine DANGIN 22.01.2019 - 18:35:

Excusez moi j'ai envoyé trop rapidement ma question ! Ce cardigan me plaît beaucoup mais je suis un peu perdue ... Merci de votre réponse - j'ai déjà fait l'encolure.

Martine DANGIN 22.01.2019 - 18:30:

Bonjour, J'ai choisi la 4ème taille XL et je ne vois pas où placer les anneaux marqueurs (nombre de maille) pour délimiter les augmentations pour le raglan.

DROPS Design 23.01.2019 kl. 08:55:

Bonjour Mme Dangin, en taille XL placez vos marqueurs ainsi (sur 138 m): 1er marqueur après les 27 premières mailles (= devant gauche), le 2ème marqueur après les 20 mailles suivantes (= manche gauche), le 3ème marqueur après les 44 mailles suivantes (= dos) et le 4ème marqueur après les 20 mailles suivantes (= manche droite), il reste maintenant 27 mailles après le dernier marqueur pour le devant droit. Bon tricot!

Jaana Viitanen 06.12.2018 - 17:37:

Valmis neule on aikamoinen sykerö, reunat kipparalla. Pitäsikö neule "rentouttaa" kastelemalla. Langan vyötteen mukaan silittäminen ei olisi sallittu... Jotain pitäisi tehdä. Mikä neuvoksi?

DROPS Design 11.12.2018 kl. 17:01:

Voit kostuttaa neuleen kevyesti ja asettaa se sitten mittoihinsa kuivumaan. Tällöin reunat suorenevat.

Jaana Viitanen 06.12.2018 - 17:31:

Valmis neule on aikamoinen sykerö, reunat kipparalla. Pitäsikö neule "rentouttaa" kastelemalla. Langan vyötteen mukaan silittäminen ei olisi sallittu... Jotain pitäisi tehdä. Mikä neuvoksi?

Ginny 18.04.2018 - 06:52:

Ok, I think the pattern is wrong because for XL and 2XL we have 27 and 29 stitches at the beginning and end of rows. The pattern A1 with the increases does not fit a non odd number. Please explain. Am I missing something???

DROPS Design 18.04.2018 kl. 09:54:

Dear Ginny, work the sts in A.1 as shown in diagram, when there are not enough sts to make the last (K2 tog,yo) and increase, K the remaining sts so that the pattern fits and the increases are done. Happy knitting!

Ginny 16.04.2018 - 04:57:

Hello! I would like to know in what stitch is the elevation worked. If it's right after the neck band shouldn't it be worked in the lace pattern? I'm asking because in the directions it says I should do it in stockinette BUT wouldn't that appear ugly on the back? Also, the buttonhole directions say to make the first one AFTER the neck band BUT on the picture it' s clearly visible that it's made ON the neck band. Please clarify.

DROPS Design 05.07.2018 kl. 07:15:

Dear Ginny, the elevation is worked in stockinett stitch. It is only a centimeter or so, betwen the neck band and the pattern, it actually flows well with the horizontal stipes of the lace pattern. The first buttonhole should be placed in the firts row after the garter stitch edge in the neck. Hppy Knitting!

Bente Jans 08.07.2017 - 17:15:

Dette er en kommentar til mit tidligere spørgsmål: I skal ikke tænke mere over spørgsmålet, jeg har fundet ud af det. Det hjælper at læse opskriften rigtigt :-)

Bente Jans 07.07.2017 - 10:16:

Jeg har nu sat mærker efter de masker som beskrevet. Mærkerne er sat imellem maskerne. Hvordan strikker jeg så udtagningerne til raglan? Jeg kommer til at mangle 3 masker? På forhånd tak og venlig hilsen

DROPS Design 12.07.2017 kl. 13:52:

Hej Bente, hvilken størrelse strikker du?

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