DROPS / 176 / 6

Let's Play by DROPS Design

Jumper with raglan and stripes worked top down in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no z-788
Yarn group A + C or D
-----------------------------------------------------------
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-50-100-100-100-100 g colour 100, off white
50-50-100-100-100-100 g colour 3112, dusty pink
50-50-100-100-100-100 g colour 3720, medium pink
50-50-100-100-100-100 g colour 2923, golden rod
And use:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK (belongs to yarn group C)
100-125-125-150-150-175 g colour 01, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 80 cm) SIZE 6 MM – or the size needed to get 14 stitches and 16 rows stocking stitch with 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands) on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 80 cm) SIZE 5 MM – for the garter stitch borders and rib.
----------------------------------------------------------

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 2.25 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 2.25 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order

77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 1.80 £ /25g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 1.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

INCREASE TIP-1:
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 68 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 8) = 8.5. In this example, increase alternately after approx. every 8th and 9th stitch. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.

RAGLAN:
Increase to raglan on each side of the four marker threads. NOTE: For sizes XL + XXL + XXXL the number of increases is different on the front/back pieces and the sleeves as described in the text.

INCREASE AS FOLLOWS WHEN INCREASING 2 STITCHES (i.e. 1 stitch in each side):
After the marker thread: knit 1, make 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased). On the next round, knit the yarn over so that you make holes.
Before the marker thread: Start 1 stitch before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= 1 stitch increased). On the next round knit the yarn over so that you make holes.

INCREASE AS FOLLOWS WHEN INCREASING 4 STITCHES (i.e. 2 stitches in each side):
After the marker thread: Knit 1, make 1 yarn over, knit 1, make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round, knit the yarn over nearest the marker thread (= hole), the other is knitted twisted (= no hole).
Before the marker thread: Start 2 stitches before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 1, make 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the first yarn over twisted (= no hole), the other yarn over (i.e. the yarn over nearest the marker thread) is knitted (= hole).

STRIPES:
Alpaca = A, Brushed Alpaca Silk = BAS.
NOTE: The stripes are given alternately in rounds and cm. All the stripes are worked in stocking stitch.
STRIPES BODY:
2 rounds with 1 strand dusty pink A + 1 strand off white BAS.
2 rounds with 1 strand off white A + 1 strand off white BAS.
9-9-10-10-10-11 cm with 1 strand dusty pink A + 1 strand off white BAS.
2 rounds with 1 strand medium pink A + 1 strand off white BAS.
2 rounds with 1 strand dusty pink A + 1 strand off white BAS.
9-9-10-10-10-11 cm with 1 strand medium pink A + 1 strand off white BAS.
2 rounds with 1 strand golden rod A + 1 strand off white BAS.
2 rounds with 1 strand medium pink A + 1 strand off white BAS.
9-9-10-10-10-11 cm with 1 strand golden rod A + 1 strand off white BAS.
2 rounds with 1 strand off white A + 1 strand off white BAS.
2 rounds with 1 strand golden rod A + 1 strand off white BAS.
To finished length: 1 strand off white A + 1 strand off white BAS.
STRIPES SLEEVE:
2 rounds with 1 strand medium pink A + 1 strand off white BAS.
2 rounds with 1 strand dusty pink A + 1 strand off white BAS.
9-9-9-9-8-9 cm with 1 strand medium pink A + 1 strand off white BAS.
2 rounds with 1 strand golden rod A + 1 strand off white BAS.
2 rounds with 1 strand medium pink A + 1 strand off white BAS.
9-9-9-9-8-9 cm with 1 strand golden rod A + 1 strand off white BAS.
2 rounds with 1 strand off white A + 1 strand off white BAS.
2 rounds with 1 strand golden rod A + 1 strand off white BAS.
To finished length: 1 strand off white A + 1 strand off white BAS.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for the sides of the body):
Start 1 stitch before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve):
Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).
----------------------------------------------------------

JUMPER:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle from mid back and top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.


YOKE:
Cast on 68-68-72-72-76-76 stitches with short circular needle size 5 mm and 1 strand off white Alpaca (= A) + 1 strand off white Brushed Alpaca Silk (= BAS). Work 2 RIDGES – see description above. AT THE SAME TIME on the third round (= a round of knit) increase 8-12-12-12-16-16 stitches evenly along the round – READ INCREASE TIP-1 = 76-80-84-84-92-92 STITCHES. Change to a short circular needle size 6 mm after the ridges and insert 4 marker threads in the piece as follows (without working the stitches): 1st marker thread inserted after the first 13-14-15-15-17-17 stitches (= ½ the back piece), 2nd marker thread inserted after the next 12 stitches (= right sleeve), 3rd marker thread inserted after the next 26-28-30-30-34-34 stitches (= front piece) and the 4th marker thread is inserted after the next 12 stitches (= left sleeve). There are now 13-14-15-15-17-17 stitches left on the back piece after the last marker thread. Work stocking stitch in the round. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! AT THE SAME TIME on the 2nd round with stocking stitch increase to RAGLAN in each transition between the body and sleeves – see description above. Increase as follows:
SIZES S + M + L (front/back piece + sleeves): Increase 1 stitch on each side of each of the four marker threads every 2nd round in total 14-16-17 times.
SIZES XL + XXL + XXXL: Increase 2 stitches in each side on the front and back pieces every 2nd round in total 2-3-4 times, then increase 1 stitch in each side on the front and back pieces every 2nd round in total 17-17-18 times. AT THE SAME TIME increase 1 stitch in each side on the sleeves every 2nd round in total 19-20-22 times.

STRIPES:
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 9-11-10-11-13-12 cm (measured from the cast-on edge mid front) work STRIPES BODY – see description above.

After all the increases to raglan there are 188-208-220-244-264-284 stitches on the needle and the piece measures approx. 19-21-23-25-26-28 cm from the cast-on edge mid front (i.e. approx. 22-24-26-28-29-31 cm from the shoulder).
The next round is worked as follows: Work 27-30-32-36-40-43 stitches stocking stitch (= ½ the back piece), place the next 40-44-46-50-52-56 stitches on 1 thread (= right sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-8-10 new stitches on the needle (= in the side under the sleeve), work 54-60-64-72-80-86 stitches stocking stitch (= front piece), place the next 40-44-46-50-52-56 stitches on 1 thread (= left sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-8-10 new stitches on the needle (= in the side under the sleeve) and work the remaining 27-30-32-36-40-43 stitches in stocking stitch (= ½ the back piece). The body and sleeves are now continued separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 120-132-144-160-176-192 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-8-10 stitches which were cast on under the sleeves in each side. Continue in the round with stocking stitch and stripes body. AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 4 cm increase 2 stitches in each side – READ INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase in this way every 8-8-8-6-6-6 cm in total 3-3-3-4-4-4 times = 132-144-156-176-192-208 stitches.
When the piece measures 46-48-50-51-53-55 cm from the cast on edge mid front (i.e. approx. 49-51-53-54-56-58 cm from the shoulder) the stripes should be finished. Knit 1 round with 1 strand off white Alpaca + 1 strand off white Brushed Alpaca Silk where you increase 30-30-36-40-42-44 stitches evenly along the round = 162-174-192-216-234-252 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5 mm and work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 4). When the rib measures 2 cm increase all purl 4 to purl 5 = 189-203-224-252-273-294 stitches. When the rib measures 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm cast off loosely with knit over knit and purl over purl. The jumper measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from the shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 40-44-46-50-52-56 stitches from the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 6 mm and in addition knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-8-10 stitches cast on under the sleeve and insert a marker thread in the middle of these stitches 6-6-8-8-8-10 stitches (= mid under sleeve) = 46-50-54-58-60-66 stitches on the needle. Continue in the round with the colour from the stripe on the body until the stripe measures 9-9-10-10-10-10 cm, then work STRIPES SLEEVE – see description above. AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 2 cm from the separation in all sizes, decrease 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – READ DECREASE TIP. Decrease in this way every 4½-3½-2½-2-2-1½ cm in total 6-7-9-10-11-13 times = 34-36-36-38-38-40 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 28-27-26-25-24-23 cm from the separation. Change to double pointed needles size 5 mm and 1 strand off white Alpaca + 1 strand off white Brushed Alpaca Silk. Work 2 ridges, change back to double pointed needles size 6 mm and cast off loosely. Work the other sleeve the same way.

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 176-6) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (11)

Gunilla 13.10.2018 - 15:31:

Jag kanske har missat något, men när byter man till den långa rundstickan nr 6?

DROPS Design 15.10.2018 kl. 17:57:

Hej, du kan byta till den längre rundstickan så fort du ökat tillräckligt med maskor.

Birgitta 24.04.2018 - 22:32:

Nu har jag köpt exakt antal nystan och färger till denna fina tröja. Min fråga och oro är hur 200 gram Drops Alpacka och 125 gram Brushed Alpacka Silk ska räcka till storlek medium. Kan det vara fel ? Tacksam för svar.

DROPS Design 26.04.2018 kl. 09:27:

Hej Birgitta, det skall stämma.... vi har inte hört att det inte skulle stämma :)

Anne 20.11.2017 - 11:19:

Pull tout doux très agréable à tricoter et à porter. Je vais en faire un deuxième dans un autre coloris.

Fm 09.10.2017 - 23:34:

Hei Hvis jeg vil strikke denne med vanlig vrangbord hals, hvordan gjør jeg det da?

DROPS Design 11.10.2017 kl. 15:07:

Hei! Da må du sørge for å ha et antall masker så vrangborden går opp, maskeantallet må justeres i følge oppskriften før du starter med raglanøkningen så du får 76-80-84-84-92-92 masker (i de forskjellige størrelsene). Vi har dessverre ikke mulighet til å regne om maskeantallet i oppskriften. God fornøyelse!

Zenf 07.10.2017 - 00:11:

Hei Hvis jeg vil strikke denne med vanlig vrangbord hals, hvordan gjør jeg det da?

Kristine 26.07.2017 - 21:28:

In your response to Barb about measurements you refer her to the schematics on the pattern. what unit of measure are these in?

DROPS Design 27.07.2017 kl. 00:00:

Dear Kristine, the measurements on the schematics are given in cm. Happy Knitting!

Barb Baronas 11.07.2017 - 06:38:

Are there standard measurements for your sizing? I'm looking at 2 different patterns that are marked s/m/l/xl/xxl but I don't see bust sizes for them. I would like to make the Let's play and the Strawberry Vanilla pullovers. Thanks!

DROPS Design 11.07.2017 kl. 08:17:

Dear Barb, sizing always depends on several factors, mainly the style of the piece, and teh yarn used. You should always refer to the schematics found at the bottom of the pattern to figure out what size to knit. Happy crafting!

Mimi Routh 19.06.2017 - 17:09:

I see this in bright colors perhaps for just after the holidays when it's still cold but one is yearning to wear flower colors. Beautiful & flattering!

Marta Moro Rodríguez 02.02.2017 - 09:59:

Me gustaría que sibierais el patrón para poder descargarlo, sólo se ve la foto. Muchas gracias

Mary Kersey 17.01.2017 - 15:33:

I love this one - looks so fresh and comfortable

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 176-6

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.