DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24

Hokey Pokey

Set consists of: Knitted DROPS mittens and toe-up socks with Nordic pattern, Latvian braid and pompoms in ”Karisma”.

DROPS 173-42
DROPS design: Pattern no u-789
Yarn group B
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MITTENS:
Size: One-size
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
50 g color no 01, off white
50 g color no 52, dark mustard
50 g color no 78, coral

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 3 mm / US 2.5 - or size needed to get 23 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

SOCKS:
Sizes: US: 5/6½ - 7½/9 - 9½/10½
UK: 3/4 - 5/6½ - 7/8 EU: 35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43
Foot length: 22 - 24 - 27 cm / 8¾''-9½''-10½''
Sock height: approx. 19 - 20 - 21 cm / 7½"-8"-8 1/4"
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
100 g for all sizes in color no 01, off white.
150 g in all sizes in color no 52, mustard
50 g for all sizes in color no 78, coral

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 3.5 mm / US 4 - or size needed to get 22 sts x 30 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
MITTENS:

MAGIC CIRCLE:
To avoid hole in the middle beg with this technique:
Hold yarn end in the left hand and make a loop around left index finger (from left to right). Hold the loop with left thumb and index finger. Insert needle through loop, get yarn from ball (i.e. place yarn 1 time over needle from you), pull yarn back through loop, 1 YO (now place yarn from the back and towards you) and pull YO through sts on needle, * insert needle through loop, 1 YO (place yarn from the back and towards you), pull YO through loop, 1 YO (from the back and towards you) and pull YO through outermost st on right needle (i.e. the last st made) *, repeat from *-* until there are 12 sts on needle. Distribute sts on 4 double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 as explained in pattern.
Then work as explained in pattern – AT THE SAME TIME pull yarn end so that loop is tighten tog and the hole disappears.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Work entire pattern in stockinette st.

LATVIAN BRAID:
Braid consists of 3 rounds - all rounds are shown in diagram and worked as follows:
ROUND 1: * K 1 with off white, K 1 with coral *, repeat from *-* the entire round.
ROUND 2: Place both strands in the front of piece (towards you). Then move the off white strand to the back, P 1 and move the strand to the front again. Pull the coral strand underneath the off white strand and then move the coral to the back, P 1 and move the strand to the front again. Continue like this with P alternately with off white and coral but always place the strand underneath the strand from the last st worked.
ROUND 3: Work as 2nd round but now place strand always OVER strand from the last st worked.
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LEFT MITTEN:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles and work from fingertip to wrist.
Start with mustard and MAGIC CIRCLE - see explanation above = 12 sts distributed on 4 double pointed needles 3 mm - NOTE: If you do not want to start with a magic circle cast on 12 sts with mustard distributed over 4 double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 (when mitten is done baste a yarn up and down through sts around hole at the top and tighten tog).
Then work pattern in the round according to diagram A.1 and inc as shown in diagram = 52 sts on needle. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When piece measures 12 cm / 4¾'' from the tip (i.e. after round marked with arrow in diagram), bind off 3 sts over the 3 black squares in diagram for thumb opening (try the mitten and work to desired length). On next round: cast on 13 new sts over these = 62 sts on needle. NOTE: cast on as if working first row of diagram A.2, ie: cast on with 2 colors. See black star in diagram. Continue A.2 over these 13 sts, and A.1 as over the remaining sts. . When A.2 has been worked, there are 52 sts on needle and continue A.1 in the round over all sts again. When A.1 has been worked, loosely bind off with coral. The entire mitten measures approx. 24 cm / 9½''.

THUMB:
Pick up 1 st in each of the 13 sts cast on for thumb opening and pick in addition up 9 sts around thumb opening = 22 sts. Distribute sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 and work pattern in the round according to diagram A.3. Dec as shown in diagram. When A.3 has been worked, 8 sts remain on needle. Cut the yarns and pull them through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.

POMPOM:
Make 1 small pompom with coral with an approx. diameter of 3 cm / 1''. When tying the yarn around the pompom leave approx. 20 cm / 8'' of yarn at the end. Now use the yarn ends and make knots after each other in a row until this tie is approx. 3 cm / 1''. Then fasten tie with pompom in the side on mitten (see picture). There should be 2 pompom with ties in the side on mitten.

RIGHT MITTEN:
Cast on and work as left mitten but reversed, i.e. the 3 black squares for thumb are worked in 2nd, 3rd and 4th st from the left in the diagram.

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SOCKS:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.4 to A.8 – choose diagram for correct size.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next round work YO twisted to avoid holes.

HEEL:
ROW 1 (= RS): Work until 10-10-11 sts remain, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, turn piece.
ROW 2 (= WS): Work until 10-10-11 sts remain, slip 1 st as if to P, P 1, psso, turn piece.
ROW 3 (= RS): Work until 9-9-10 sts remain, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, turn piece.
ROW 4 (= WS): Work until 9-9-10 sts remain, slip 1 st as if to P, P 1, psso, turn piece.
Continue dec like this with 1 less st before each dec until there are 17-17-19 sts on needle.

LATVIAN BRAID:
Braid consists of 3 rounds - all rounds are shown in diagram and worked as follows:
ROUND 1: * K 1 with off white, K 1 with coral *, repeat from *-* the entire round.
ROUND 2: Place both strands in the front of piece (towards you). Then move the off white strand to the back, P 1 and move the strand to the front again. Pull the coral strand underneath the off white strand and then move the coral to the back, P 1 and move the strand to the front again. Continue like this with P alternately with off white and coral but always place the strand underneath the strand from the last st worked.
ROUND 3: Work as 2nd round but now place strand always OVER strand from the last st worked.
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SOCK:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles and work from the toes and up.
Cast on 12 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with off white. Work pattern in the round according to diagram A.4 and inc as shown in diagram = 48 sts on needle. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When A.4 is done, continue pattern in the round according to diagram A.5A. When piece measures 15-17-18 cm / 6"-6 3/4-7'' from toe (approx. 7-7-9 cm / 2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3½'' remain until full foot length – try the sock and work to desired length) insert 1 marker in 1st st on round and 1 marker in 25th st on round (both markers are in a mustard st on sock). Now inc 1 st before first marker and 1 st after 2nd marker - READ INCREASE TIP (= 2 sts inc). Inc like this every other round a total of 6-6-8 times = 60-60-64 sts on needle –NOTE: Work the inc sts in stripes under foot. After last inc keep the first 25 sts on needle and continue with stripes back and forth according to diagram A.6 over the remaining 35-35-39 sts for 3½-3½-4 cm / 1 1/4"-1 1/4"-1½'' (sock measures 22-24-27 cm / 8¾''-9½''-10½'' from the toe). Then work HEEL - see explanation above, over the 35-35-39 sts (continue stripes in A.6 as before). After heel work next round as follows: Work with off white over the 17-17-19 sts on heel, pick up 8-8-9 sts (with off white) along edge on the 3½-3½-4 cm / 1 1/4"-1 1/4"-1½" worked back and forth, continue A.5A over the next 25 sts and pick up 8-8-9 sts along edge on the 3½-3½-4 cm / 1 1/4"-1 1/4"-1½'' in the other side = 58-58-62 sts on needle. Insert 1 marker, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Work next round as follows: Work pattern according to diagram A.7A over the first 33-33-37 sts (= behind sock) and dec AT THE SAME TIME 4-4-6 sts evenly over these sts on first round, so that pattern continues over 29-29-31 sts, continue A.5A as before over the next 25 sts (= at the front of sock) = 54-54-56 sts on needle. When A.7A has been worked one time vertically, repeat A.7B over these 29-29-31 sts (continue A.5A as before at the front of sock). AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', inc 1 st inside outermost st in each side of A.7B - READ INCREASE TIP (= 2 sts inc). Inc like this every 4 cm / 1½'' a total of 3 times = 60-60-62 sts - NOTE: Work the inc sts in A.7B but the outermost 1-1-2 sts in each side should always be in off white.
When piece measures approx. 13-14-15 cm / 5"-5½"-6" from marker – adjust after one whole repetition in A.5A and finish as shown on last round in A.5B K 1 round over all sts with off white. Then continue pattern in the round according to diagram A.8. AT THE SAME TIME on round marked with arrow inc 4-4-6 sts evenly = 64-64-68 sts. When A.8 has been worked, loosely bind off with coral. Sock measures approx. 19-20-21 cm / 7½-8"-8 1/4" from marker.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew opening at the front of toe tog with grafting/kitchener sts in mustard.
Knit another sock the same way.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 21.02.2017
SOCKS:...AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 4 cm, inc 1 st inside outermost st in each side of A.7B - READ INCREASE TIP (= 2 sts inc). Inc like this every 4 cm a total of 3 times = 60-60-62 sts...
Updated online: 16.11.2018
Correction - LEFT MITTEN: When piece measures 12 cm = 4 3/4" from the tip (i.e. after round marked with arrow in diagram), bind off 3 sts over the 3 black squares in diagram for thumb opening (try the mitten and work to desired length). On next round: cast on 13 new sts over these = 62 sts on needle. NOTE: cast on as if working first row of diagram A.2, ie: cast on with 2 colors. See black star in diagram. Continue A.2 over these 13 sts, and A.1 as over the remaining sts.
Updated online: 11.03.2019
Correction - HEEL: ROW 3 (= RS): Work until 9-9-10 sts remain, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, turn piece. ROW 4 (= WS): Work until 9-9-10 sts remain, slip 1 st as if to P, P 1, psso, turn piece.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K with off white
symbols = K with mustard
symbols = K with coral
symbols = st for thumb gusset - skip this square
symbols = P with coral
symbols = work LATVIAN BRAID – see explanation above, with yarn under the yarn last used
symbols = work LATVIAN BRAID – see explanation above, with yarn over the yarn last used
symbols = 1 YO with off white, K YO twisted on next round (= not hole)
symbols = K 2 tog with mustard
symbols = K 2 twisted tog with mustard
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog with mustard, psso
symbols = K 2 tog with off white
symbols = K 2 twisted tog with off white
symbols = cast on the 13 sts as if you’re working this row in diagram (ie: cast on with 2 colors) to ensure pattern is not broken
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (38)

country flag Helle Pia Friis Nielsen wrote:

Mangler en vidio med hvordan man starter op på disse vanter. Har købt masse af garn m.m. Fandt en vidio med strikket magisk cirkel på YouTube. Med kan ikke finde hvordan man følger et diagram hvor der bliver lavet laver udtagning og farveskift. Kan godt strikke vanter op fra og ned. Kan også følge et diagram uden ind og udtagning. Håber på hurtig hjælp, please.

08.08.2023 - 14:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Helle, du starter på selve vanten der hvor der står VENSTRE VANTE med at slå 12 masker op på 4 strømpepinde (du behøver ikke starte med magisk cirkel) og så strikker du rundt ifølge diagram A.1 og nu er det bare at følge diagrammet, her er også udtagningerne tegnet ind :)

16.08.2023 - 10:20

country flag Marion Soidriddine wrote:

Bonjour, je me lance pour la première fois dans la confection de moufles et je ne comprends pas comment faire pour tricoter le pouce. J'ai cherché un tuto en vain (celui que j'ai trouvé correspond à la moufle que l'on tricote à partir du bas et non par la pointe). Je ne sais à quel moment tricoter les 13 mailles de A2 et sur quoi relever les 9 mailles supplémentaires. Merci beaucoup Marion

21.02.2023 - 15:52

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Soidriddine, pour tricoter le pouce, relevez 1 maille dans chacune des 13 mailles montées en faisant la moufle + 9 mailles autour de l'ouverture du pouce (= les 3 mailles rabattues + de chaque côté de ces 3 mailles). Bon tricot!

21.02.2023 - 18:12

country flag Cécile Rousseau wrote:

Mitaines : Dans votre document PDF en français, la Légende diagramme(s) est incomplète. Il faut se référer sur le site en ligne pour avoir la description complète. Mittens: In your PDF document in French, the Legend diagram(s) is incomplete. You must refer to the online site for the complete description.

19.11.2022 - 16:26

country flag Cécile Rousseau wrote:

Mitaine - Pouce Je crois que vous devriez ajouter la phrase suivante au tout début du paragraphe pour le pouce : 'EN PARTANT DE LA PREMIÈRE MAILLE DES 13 MAILLES RELEVÉES AUPARAVANT, relever 1 m dans chacune des 13 m montées pour l'ouverture du pouce et relever en plus 9 m autour de l'ouverture =22 m.

18.11.2022 - 18:40

country flag Ingrid Krohn-Hansen wrote:

Har diagram A-2 falt ut av oppskriften? Jeg har strikket en vott, da lå A-2 inne. Nå finner jeg det ikke.

26.07.2022 - 17:57

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ingrid, A.2 ligger nedenfor A.1 :)

04.08.2022 - 08:25

country flag Niki wrote:

Det här stämmer inte: \"Nästa v stickas så här: Sticka mönster efter diag A.7A över de första 33-33-37 m (= bak på sockan)\". Jag har redan stickat de första 8 enligt beskrivningen eller menas det att de åtta man plockar upp inte ska stickas innan? Väldigt otydligt. Ska jag sticka runt ett helt varv ifrån var jag är efter de 8 upptagna och sen börja mönstret? Ska jag backa? Skulle jag inte stickat de 8 upptagna maskorna? Eller ska jag börja mitt i mönstret?

17.01.2022 - 22:45

country flag Marijke Veldman wrote:

Wanten - probleem. Geacht team, moeten er na het afkanten van de 3 steken direct 13 steken extra opzetten of moet je eerst een ronde doorbreien en dan pas de 13 steken opzetten? Ik zie graag uw reactie.

19.12.2021 - 12:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marijke,

Na het afkanten brei je de naald verder in patroon en op de volgende naald zet je 13 nieuwe steken op boven de 3 afgekante steken.

19.12.2021 - 19:03

country flag Marijke Veldman wrote:

Over wanten een vraag die hier al eerder is gesteld maar niet duidelijk werd beantwoord! Als de 3 steken zijn afgekant , wordt er dan eerst doorgewerkt in A 1 en bij de volgende ronde op deze plek de opzet van 13 steken gedaan?

19.12.2021 - 12:10

country flag Sharon wrote:

Dear all. You can finish these socks by making a purl row after the last braid and then continuing with stockinette with smaller needles for some rows before casting off. Fold the stockinette inside the sock and either sew loosely , joining to the lower braid or simply sew/attach down the sides. It makes a lovely and pristine top edge. Better still is to decrease by 2 stitches on the purl row, as well as using a half size smaller needles.

21.07.2021 - 10:09

country flag Su wrote:

Hi! the pattern describes (= recht met koraal ) 'knit with coral' twice. When looking at the english page the second was 'purl with coral', which might need to be corrected :) Also, when doing the last row of the mittens, do you cast off with purl stitches? or knit?

17.02.2021 - 09:11

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sue, thanks for noticing, diagram text has been now updated in dutch - you can cast off with knit stitches at the end of the mittens - just make sure cast off edge is not too tight. happy knitting!

17.02.2021 - 14:40