Swing Along by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with lace pattern and shawl collar in ”Snow”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 172-21
DROPS design: Pattern no ee-566
Yarn group E or C + C
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
850-950-1000-1100-1200-1350 g color no 10, bordeaux

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') size 8 mm / US 11 - or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 540: 2 pieces for all sizes


Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


100% Wool
from 1.85 $ /50g
DROPS Snow uni colour DROPS Snow uni colour 1.85 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Snow mix DROPS Snow mix 2.15 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.45$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

Work back and forth in 2 parts from bottom edge on front piece to mid back. Sew the 2 parts tog mid back.

Worked back and forth on circular needle to make room for all the sts.

Cast on 50-52-53-56-58-61 sts on circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 with Snow. Work 3 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Work as follows from RS (i.e. from the side and towards mid front): Work 23-25-26-29-21-24 sts in stockinette st, A.1 (= 10 sts) over the next 20-20-20-20-30-30 sts (= 2-2-2-2-3-3 times in width in total) and A.2 over the last 7 sts. Work pattern like this until finished measurements.

On next row from WS beg inc towards the side and cast on new sts at end of every row from WS as follows: Cast on 1 st 2 times in total and 2 sts 5 times in total, work the inc sts in stockinette st.
On next row from WS, cast on 5 sts at the end of row (work these 5 sts in garter st for sleeve edge) = 67-69-70-73-75-78 sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE Piece now measures approx. 14 cm / 5½''. Work as before until piece measures 34-34-36-36-38-38 cm / 13½"-13½"-14 1/4"-14 1/4"-15"-15".

LOOSELY cast on 22-22-24-24-26-26 new sts for sleeve at the end of next row from WS = 89-91-94-97-101-104 sts. The 22-22-24-24-26-26 new sts are worked in garter st = 27-27-29-29-31-31 sts in garter st in right side seen from RS. Work 6 rows as before.

Then work stockinette st over the 27-27-29-29-31-31 sts in garter st (= 62-64-67-70-64-67 sts in stockinette st in total), 20-20-20-20-30-30 sts pattern A.1 and 7 sts pattern A.2. On next row from WS beg inc towards the side and cast on new sts at end of every row from WS as follows: Cast on 2 sts 2 times in total and 1 st 8 times in total. Work inc sts in stockinette st. On next row from WS, cast on 3 sts at the end of row (work these 3 sts in garter st until finished measurements) = 104-106-109-112-116-119 sts. When piece measures 58-60-59-61-61-64 cm / 22 3/4"-23½"-23 1/4"-24"-24"-25 1/4", dec 1 st for neck towards mid front from RS by K 2 sts in stockinette st tog before A.1. Dec like this every 4th row 6-6-7-7-8-8 times in total = 98-100-102-105-108-111 sts. Piece measures approx. 71-73-75-77-80-83 cm / 28"-28 3/4"-29½"-30½"-31½"-32 3/4''. Now work short rows over sts, beg from the neck (= WS) as follows:

ROW 1 (= WS): K 10.
ROW 2 (= RS): K 10 back.
ROW 3 (= WS): K 17, work A.1 (= 1-1-1-1-2-2 times in width), stockinette st and garter st as before the rest of row.
ROW 4 (= RS): Work in garter st, stockinette st and A.1 as before until 17 sts on needle, finish with K 17.

Repeat 1st to 4th row until piece measures 78-80-83-85-89-92 cm / 30 3/4"-31½"-32 3/4"-33½"-35"-36 1/4'' at the shortest, adjust so that the next row is worked from WS.

Row 1 (= WS): K the first 17 sts, turn piece.
Row 2 (= RS): K back.
Row 3 (= WS): K the first 15 sts, turn piece.
Row 4 (= RS): K back.
Work 2 sts less on every turn. When 1 ridge have been worked over the outermost 3 sts, work 1 ridge over all sts (= mid back) AT THE SAME TIME on row from WS inc with 1 YO between 5th and 6th st and between 13th and 14th st (= 2 sts inc, this is done to avoid a tight bind-off). Bind off while working K.

Work as left front piece/back piece but reversed. Work A.3 instead of A.2 and A.4 instead of A.1.
Dec and cast on sts in left side of piece (i.e. at the end of row from RS). NOTE: Dec for neck after A.4 (from RS). Dec by slipping 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

Sew the two parts tog mid back in outer loops of edge stss. Sew tog A against B - see chart – sew in outer loops of edge sts. Sew on buttons on left band. Button through holes in A.3 on right band.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = K from WS
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
symbols = mid back
symbols = knitting direction

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 172-21) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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5) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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6) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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7) What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

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8) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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9) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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10) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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11) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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13) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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14) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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15) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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16) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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17) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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18) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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19) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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20) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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21) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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22) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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23) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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24) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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25) Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (37)

country flag Nicole wrote:

Bonjour madame, au début de l'ouvrage les 5 mailles montées sur la bordure et tricotées au point mousse sont montées une fois les augmentations du bord terminées ou en même temps ?

10.11.2023 - 10:24

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nicole, tout à fait, ces 5 nouvelles mailles sont montées à la fin du rang suivant sur l'envers, quand les augmentations sont terminées. Bon tricot!

10.11.2023 - 11:29

country flag Isabella Zaina wrote:

Buonasera, non ho capito cosa devo fare alla fine del davanti/dietro sinistro quando si dice di lavorare a ferri accorciati la descrizione dei FERRO 1, FERRO 2, FERRO 3, FERRO 4 e nemmeno le fasi successive. Vi ringrazio anticipatamente.

12.09.2023 - 23:41

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Isabella, in quel punto deve lavorare solo su una parte delle maglie e non su tutte le maglie sui ferri. Deve seguire le indicazioni, e lavorare solo sul numero di maglie indicato. Buon lavoro!

14.09.2023 - 20:12

country flag Christina Pernholt wrote:

Sista stycket innan avmaskning, man stickar 17, vänder, stickar tillbaka, stick 15 vänder, tillbaka sen 2 räta varv, inkl 2 omslag. men på bild verkar det vara fler än 2 räta varv innan avmaskning? eller fattar jag fel? mvh christina

02.12.2021 - 20:40

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Christina. Du ska sticka förkortade varv tills du har 3 maskor kvar ytterst ("sticka över 2 m mindre för varje gång det vänds") och när du har 3 maskor kvar ytterst så ökar du med omslag för att avmaskningskanten inte ska strama. Mvh DROPS Design

03.12.2021 - 10:49

country flag Truaud wrote:

Merci pour votre réponse rapide et si je peut abuser combien environ doit mesurer l ouvrage terminé cordialement

15.10.2021 - 09:06

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Truaud, retrouvez toutes les mesures dans le schéma, y compris la hauteur totale de la pièce: 79 à 93 cm selon la taille + les rangs raccourcis du haut. Bon tricot!

15.10.2021 - 13:40

country flag Truaud wrote:

Bonjour lorsque vous dites le cote le plus court est ce celui de la manche je ne comprends pas bien cordialement

15.10.2021 - 07:10

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Truaud, vous devez mesurer du côté où vous avez tricoté moins de rangs, si vous regardez le schéma, ce sera du côté droit, vu sur l'endroit, à partir du rang de montage jusqu'aux mailles sur l'aiguille (cf flèche), mais avant les pointillés du schéma = avant les rangs raccourcis. Bon tricot!

15.10.2021 - 08:13

country flag Haas Gabriele wrote:

Hallo, ab den verkürzten Reihen verstehe ich die Anleitung nicht mehr. Können Sie mir bitte helfen? LG

10.03.2021 - 23:02

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Haas, beim linken Vorderteil/Rückenteil beginnen Sie diese verkürzten Reihen mit einer Rückreihe - die 4 Reihen (= 2 Reihe über die 10 ersten M, 2 Reihe über alle Maschen) wiederholen, dann stricken Sie verkürzten Reihen über nur die Krausrechte Maschen (= die 17 M), dh 2 Reihe über 17 M, 2 Reihe über 15 M, 2 Reihe über 13 M, usw bis Sie 2 Reihe über die ersten 3 M gestrickt haben (Schalkragen), dann stricken Sie 2 Reihen über alle Maschen und ketten Sie dann alle Maschen ab. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

11.03.2021 - 08:20

country flag Haas, Gabriele wrote:

Was bedeutet bei verkürzten Reihen das A. 1(=1-1-1-1-2-2x in der Breite)?? Danke schonmal im voraus für die Hilfe

10.03.2021 - 20:51

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe frau Haas, wenn Sie die 3. Reihe bei den verkürzten Reihen stricken, stricken Sie alle Maschen, dh: 17 M re, A.1 (1 oder 2 x in der Breite je nach der Größe), glatt rechts und kraus rechts wie zuvor bis zur Ende der Reihe. Dann stricken Sie die nächste Hinreihe auch wie zuvor (kraus rechts, glatt rechts, A.1 und kraus rechts). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

11.03.2021 - 08:09

country flag Leila wrote:

Bonsoir, peut t'on réaliser ce modèle avec des aiguilles simple merci

31.01.2021 - 16:14

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Leila, cela peut etre diffcile parce que tu as beaucoup de mailles. Comment tricoter en allers et retours sur aiguille circulaire tu peux voir ICI. Bon tricot!

31.01.2021 - 19:14

country flag Gail wrote:

I just finished this and love wearing it, however, I made a couple alterations. I found there was more fabric in front than back, and the placement of the armholes was almost too far back, therefore restrictive. To remedy this, I added a short-row expansions to both the left and right halves, at the end of the pattern, thereby increasing the hem width, without increasing the whole pattern size. I also joined with a crocheted flat braided join for some elasticity. Love the drape now.

12.01.2021 - 01:45

country flag Anne wrote:

Has anyone put a pocket on the front? If so how?

10.08.2020 - 15:02

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Anne, we are unfortunately not able to adjust every pattern to every single request but you are welcome to contact your DROPS store for any individual assistance - you could be inspired but our patterns with pockets. Happy Knitting!

10.08.2020 - 16:41

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