DROPS / 172 / 23

Shades of Grey by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper with round yoke and stripes, worked top down in 2 strands "Alpaca". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no z-748
Yarn group A + A or C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
150-150-150-150-200-200 g color no 100, off white
100-100-100-100-150-150 g color no 9020, light pearl gray
100-100-100-150-150-150 g color no 501, light gray
150-200-200-200-250-250 g color no 517, medium gray
50-50-100-100-100-100 g color no 506, dark gray
NOTE: Garment worked in one color = 450-500-550-600-650-700 g with 2 strands Alpaca.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 or 60 and 80 cm / 16" or 24'' and 32'') SIZE 5 mm/US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st with 2 strands Alpaca = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 or 60 and 80 cm / 16" or 24'' and 32'') SIZE 4.5 mm/US 7 for garter st - or size needed to get 18 sts x 23 rows in stockinette st with 2 strands Alpaca = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 5.30 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 5.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 5.60 $ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 47.70$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

ELEVATION:
Work an elevation in stockinette st in the back of neck from mid back as follows: NOTE: On every turn in the middle of piece slip 1st st, tighten yarn and continue to work. Work 8-9-10-11-11-12 sts, turn, tighten yarn and work 16-18-20-22-22-24 sts. Turn, tighten yarn and work 29-31-3d-35-35-37 sts, turn, tighten yarn and work 42-44-46-48-48-50 sts. Turn, tighten yarn and work 50-52-54-56-56-58 sts, turn, tighten yarn and work 58-60-62-64-64-66 sts. Turn and work until mid back.

STRIPES:
Work all stripes with 2 strands Alpaca. When approx. 1 cm / 3/8'' in 1st-5th stripe remains, work a EYELET ROW - see explanation below.
Stripe 1: 9-9-9-10-10-10 cm / 3½''-3½''-3½''-4''-4''-4'' with 2 strands off white.
Stripe 2: 9-9-10-10-10-11 cm / 3½"-3½"-4"-4"-4"-4½" with 1 strand off white + 1 strand light pearl gray.
Stripe 3: 9-9-10-10-10-11 cm / 3½"-3½"-4"-4"-4"-4½" with 1 strand light pearl gray + 1 strand light gray.
Stripe 4: 9-10-10-10-11-11 cm / 3½"-4"-4"-4"-4½"-4½" with 1 strand light gray + 1 strand medium gray.
Stripe 5: 9-10-10-10-11-11 cm / 3½"-4"-4"-4"-4½"-4½" with 2 strands medium gray.
Stripe 6: 10-10-10-11-11-11 cm / 4"-4"-4"-4½"-4½"-4½" with 1 strand medium gray + 1 strand dark gray.

EYELET ROW:
When approx. 1 cm / 3/8'' remains on stripe 1-5, work eyelet row as follows:
* K 2 tog, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* the entire round. If 1 st remains on this round, K this st. On next round K the YOs to make holes.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To calculate how often inc should be done, use the total no of sts on row (e.g. 88 sts) and divide by no of inc to be done (e.g. 16) = 5.5. I.e. in this example inc 1 st after alternately every 5th and 6th st.
INCREASE TIP-2 (yoke):
Inc 1 st by making a YO. On next round K YOs twisted to avoid holes.
Inc alternately on the right and left side of each marker.
I.e. first time inc on the right side of all markers and second time inc on the left side of all markers, etc.

INCREASE TIP-3 (body):
Work until 2 st remains before marker, 1 YO, K 4 (marker is between these sts), 1 YO. On next round K YOs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP:
Work until 4 sts remain before marker, K 2 tog, K 4 (marker is in the middle of these sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso. NOTE: Adjust dec to avoid it on a round with eyelet row.

BIND-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight bind-off edge, you may use a needle ½ size larger.
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JUMPER:
Work top down in the round on circular needle. Rounds start mid back.

YOKE:
Cast on 88-92-95-99-103-109 sts with 2 strands off white on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8. Work 1 round in stockinette st while inc 16-16-21-21-21-23 sts evenly - READ INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly) = 104-108-116-120-124-132 sts.
Now work ELEVATION - see explanation above - in stockinette st in the neck.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE Now insert 6 markers in the piece as follows: Work 9-9-10-10-11-11 sts, insert a marker, work 17-18-19-20-20-22 sts, insert a marker, work 17-18-19-20-20-22 sts, insert a marker, work 18-18-20-20-22-22 sts, insert a marker, work 17-18-19-20-20-22 sts, insert a marker work 17-18-19-20-20-22 sts, insert a marker, work the remaining 9-9-10-10-11-11 sts. On next round work STRIPES AND EYELET ROW - see explanation above, and inc 1 st at each marker – READ INCREASE TIP-2 (yoke). Inc like this every round 13-17-19-20-21-21 times, then every other round 8-8-8-10-12-14 times (= 21-25-27-30-33-35 times in total) = 230-258-278-300-322-342 sts. Work 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME inc 2-4-2-2-4-2 sts evenly = 232-262-280-302-326-344 sts. Work next round as follows: Work the first 34-38-40-44-49-53 sts (= half back piece), slip the next 48-55-60-63-65-66 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 sts under sleeve, work the next 68-76-80-88-98-106 sts (= front piece), slip the next 48-55-60-63-65-66 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 sts under sleeve, work the remaining 34-38-40-44-49-53 sts (= half back piece).

BODY:
There are now 148-164-176-192-216-236 sts for body. Insert a marker in the middle of the new 6-6-8-8-10-12 sts cast on under each sleeves (= 3-3-4-4-5-6 new sts on each side). NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Continue in the round with stripes, stockinette st and eyelet row as before. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', dec 1 st on each side of marker in each side - READ DECREASE TIP. Dec like this every 2 cm / 3/4'' a total of 4 times = 132-148-160-176-200-220 sts. When piece measures 15-15-16-16-16-16 cm / 6"-6"-6 1/4"-6 1/4"-6 1/4"-6 1/4", inc 1 st on each side of marker in each side – see INCREASE TIP-3 (body). Inc like this every 2 cm / 3/4'' a total of 7 times = 160-176-188-204-228-248 sts. When piece measures 39-39-40-40-40-40 cm / 15 1/4"-15 1/4"-15 3/4"-15 3/4"-15 3/4"-15 3/4", switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7. Work 2 ridges in garter st and bind off - READ BIND-OFF TIP. Piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½'' in total from shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Slip sts from stitch holder back on double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8 (= 48-55-60-63-65-66 sts). Pick up 1 st in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 sts cast on under sleeve, insert a marker in the middle of these sts (= 3-3-4-4-5-6 new sts on each side of marker) = 54-61-68-71-75-78 sts. Continue with stockinette st, stripes and eyelet holes as on body. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', dec 1 st on each side of marker mid under sleeve. Dec like this approx. every 4-3-2-2-2-2 cm / 1½"-1"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4" 9-12-15-15-16-17 times in total = 36-37-38-41-43-44 sts. AT THE SAME TIME in size S, M and L work 3rd, 4th and 5th stripe 2-2-1 cm / 3/4"-3/4"-½'' longer than on body (this is done so that the last stripes will not be much more longer than the other). In size XL, XXL and XXXL work stripes as on body.
When stripes are done, continue with last stripe (= 6th stripe) until finished measurements. When piece measures 49-48-47-45-44-42 cm / 19 1/4"-19"-18½"-17 3/4"-17 1/4"-16½", switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7. Work 2 ridges and bind off.
Make another sleeve the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 172-23) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (33)

Silke 15.02.2020 - 15:05:

Hallo, ist es richtig, dass ich ihn der Presse an 6 Stellen zunehmen muss? Bei einem Raglan Schnitt wird doch normalerweise nur an 4 Stellen zugenommen. Beim zunehmen an 6 Stellen bekomme ich auf der Brust und am Rücken unschöne Zunahmestellen. Vielen Dank für ein Feedback.

DROPS Design 17.02.2020 kl. 08:23:

Liebe Silke, es ist so richtig, es sind hier keine richtige Raglan, sondern lieber so eine Rundpasse - siehe Maßskizze. Es wird auch nur 1 Masche an jedem Markierung zugenommen (nicht 2 bei 4 Markierer wie beim Raglan). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Wenche Rekkedal 28.10.2019 - 11:38:

Jeg har begynt å strikke, men det må være en feil i oppskriften. Det stemmer ikke med å sette inn 6 merker og så øke til sammen 21 ganger ved hvert av disse, det blir alt for mange masker på bærestykket. Så vidt jeg tidligere har erfart settes det inn 4 øke-merker når man strikker ovenfra og ned, men da stemmer heller ikke masketallene.

DROPS Design 28.10.2019 kl. 14:56:

Hei Wenche. Det skal økes vekselsvis på høyre og venstre side av hvert merke på bærestykket, les ØKETIPS-2 (bærestykke). Når du er ferdig med alle økningene skal du ha 230-258-278-300-322-342 masker. NÅ deles det deles opp mellom for-og bakstykke og ermene. Mange oppskrifter er skrevet med 4 merketråder, men denne har 6 merketråder. God Fornøyelse!

Val 09.06.2019 - 02:44:

Hi. The pattern lists 5 different colours but I’m looking at the picture and pretty sure I’m seeing 7 different colours. Could you please clarify this for me as I want to go and buy the yarn.

DROPS Design 11.06.2019 kl. 10:47:

Dear Val, you require only 5 colours but you will then work following the stripes = either 2 strands same colour or 2 strands from 2 different colours, see STRIPES. Happy knititng!

Turid 08.05.2019 - 20:54:

Hei igjen, takk for god hjelp. Har et spørsmål igjen. Jeg har nå kjøpt 3 nøster av 6 farger av Paris. Ser at bomullsgarn er ikke "tøyelig". Ble i tvil og tror jeg må drikke i str L istedet for. Går det samme mengde garn på L som på M? Takk igjen :-)

DROPS Design 09.05.2019 kl. 15:01:

Hei Turid. Ja det skal nok gå fint. Om du ser på garnforbruket i Alpaca ser du det er det samme i de 2 størrelsene - rundet opp til hele nøster. God fornøyelse

Turid 03.05.2019 - 07:33:

Takk for rask tilbakemelding! Hvor mye garn trenger jeg for 1 stripe på ca 10 cm med Paris i størrelse M?

DROPS Design 03.05.2019 kl. 12:00:

Hei Turid. Se svar lenger ned: du vil nok trenge mellom 2 og 3 nøster til 1 stripe. God fornøyelse

Turid 02.05.2019 - 21:48:

Har et spørsmål ti. Jeg ser nå at det er 6 striper med Alpaca og 5 farger da det er strikket med 2 tråd. Jeg har valgt 5 farger av Paris som jeg skal bruke 1 tråd i stedet for 2. Bør jeg velge en farge til eller hvordan bør fordele stripene med 5 farger.

DROPS Design 03.05.2019 kl. 07:13:

Hei Turid. Det blir litt opp til deg, hvordan du vil gjøre det. Du kan feks legge til en stripe i en av fargene du allerede har (feks kan den øverste og den nederste stripen være like), men da vil det går med mer garn av denne fargen. Alternativt kan du velge 1 farge til, som du sier. Eller så kan du tilpasse oppskriften slik at du har 5 striper: altså strikke hver stripe litt lenger. Hullradene strikkes når det gjenstår 1 cm av stripen, som forklart i oppskriften. God fornøyelse

Turid 02.05.2019 - 21:17:

Jeg vil gjerne bruke Paris i stedet for. Har sett på fargene 16, 17, 19, 35 og 23 ( hals og ned) Vil disse passe bra sammen? Tilsvarer det samme antall nøster som Alpaca? Dvs 3, 2, 2, 4 og 1 i str M. Takk for hjelpa.

DROPS Design 03.05.2019 kl. 07:37:

Hei Turid. Ja, det høres ut som en fin kombinasjon det. Eventuelt kan du vurdere å bytte 23 med 26 da denne tar igjen tonene i natur og lys gul. Om du vil legge til en farge til (se svaret ditt over) har du jo flere muligheter innen både gultoner og grå- (eller brun) toner. Om du strikker alle 6 stripene vil jeg tro du trenger et sted mellom 2 og 3 nøster til hver stripe i størrelse M. Som du ser er noen av fargene i Alpaca brukt i av stripene - det vil jo ikke være tilfellet for deg. Kanskje det holder med 2 nøster til den øverste stripen. God fornøyelse

Anika 08.04.2019 - 22:20:

Hallo liebes Drops-Team, ich verstehe die Passe Anleitung leider nicht. 1. Wie nehme ich bei 6 Maschenmarkierern 13 Maschen zu? 2 je Markierung und dann eine am Ende der Reihe? 2. Wie nehme ich bei 6 Markierern 8 Maschen in der 2. Runde zu? Danke für die Hilfe und liebe Grüße Anika

DROPS Design 09.04.2019 kl. 10:18:

Liebe Anika, es werden 6 Maschen bei jeder Zunahmenrunde zugenommen = 1 Masche am jeder Markierer und diese Zunahmen wiederholen Sie 13 x in jeder Runde (= 6 Zunahmen x 13 = 78 M sind dann zugenommen) und 8 x in jeder 2. Runde (= 6 Zunahmen x 8 = 48 M sind dann zugenommen) = 104 + 78 + 48 = 230 M. Siehe ZUNAHMENTIPP-2 (Passe). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Assa 16.02.2019 - 13:20:

Liebes Drops-Team, was bedeutet doppelfädig gestrickt? Muss ich 2 Knäule zum stricken nehmen? LG

DROPS Design 18.02.2019 kl. 09:25:

Liebe Assa, ja genau, wenn man doppelfädig strickt bedeutet es man strickt gleichzeiting mit 1 Faden vom 2 Knäueln (2 Mal die gleiche Farbe oder mit je 1 Farbe - siehe STREIFEN). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Nicole 01.10.2018 - 18:28:

Hello, I am at the part where I slip stitches off for the sleeves. So I knit 34 and slip the next 48 off, but there is a stitch marker in between. Do we just ignore the stitch markers for this round or are the stitches supposed to be in between them?

DROPS Design 02.10.2018 kl. 09:08:

Dear Nicole, just remove the markers, you won't use them anymore, just work the first 34 sts, slip the next 48 sts for sleeve on a thread or on a stitch holder and work the next sts for front piece, etc. Happy knitting!

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