DROPS Extra / 0-1287

Warm Apricot by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS top with lace pattern and raglan in ”Safran”. The piece is worked top down. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no e-243
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
350-350-400-450-450-500 g color no 13, coral

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 – or size needed to get 22 dc x 12 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1.

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first dc at on every dc round with ch 3, finish the round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
On every sc round, replace first sc with 1 ch and finish round with 1 sl st in 1st ch from beg of round.

INCREASE TIP-1:
Inc 1 dc by working 2 dc in same dc.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
Work until 3 dc remain before marker thread, work 2 dc in next dc (= 1 dc inc), work 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc (marker thread is in the middle of these sts), work 2 dc in next dc (= 1 dc inc).

RAGLAN:
Inc for raglan on each side of A.1.
Inc 2 sts BEFORE A.1 as follows: Work until 2 dc remain before A.1, work 2 dc in each of the next 2 dc (= 2 dc inc).
Inc 2 sts AFTER A.1 as follows: Work 2 dc in each of the first 2 dc after A.1 (= 2 dc inc).
Inc 1 sts BEFORE A.1 as follows: Work until 1 dc remains before A.1, work 2 dc in next dc (= 1 dc inc).
Inc 1 sts AFTER A.1 as follows: Work 2 dc in first dc after A.1 (= 1 dc inc).
The inc on body and sleeves are uneven as explained in pattern.

DECREASE TIP:
Work until 4 dc remain before marker thread, work the next 2 dc tog as follows: Work 1 dc in next dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work 1 dc in next dc, but on last pull through pull yarn through all sts on hook - 1 dc have been dec, work 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc (marker thread is between these sts), work the next 2 dc tog (= 1 dc dec).
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YOKE:
The piece is worked top down. Work 161-166-171-176-181-186 ch on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 with Safran. Work next round as follows: Work 1 dc in 4th ch from hook (= 2 dc) - READ CROCHET INFO, 1 dc in each of the next ch 2, * skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 128-132-136-140-144-148 dc.

Then work next round as follows: Work 1 dc in each of the first 18-19-20-21-22-23 dc AT THE SAME TIME inc 4-5-5-6-7-8 dc evenly – READ INCREASE TIP-1 – (= half back piece), A.1 over the next 11 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, 2 dc in next dc, A.1 over the next 11 dc (= sleeve), 1 dc in each of the next 36-38-40-42-44-46 dc AT THE SAME TIME inc 8-10-10-12-14-16 dc evenly (= front piece), A.1 over the next 11 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, 2 dc in next dc, A.1 over the next 11 dc (= sleeve), 1 dc in each of the last 18-19-20-21-22-23 dc AT THE SAME TIME inc 4-5-5-6-7-8 dc evenly. On front and back piece there are now 44-48-50-54-58-62 dc and on sleeve there are A.1, 8 dc and A.1. On next round inc for RAGLAN – see explanation above!

INC AS FOLLOWS ON FRONT AND BACK PIECE: Inc 2 dc every round 3-4-7-9-13-16 times in total, then 1 dc every round 12-12-10-9-6-5 times in total.
INC AS FOLLOWS ON SLEEVES: Inc 2 dc every round 0-0-1-3-4-4 times in total, then 1 dc every round 15-16-16-15-15-17 times in total. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!

When A.1 have been worked 1 time vertically, repeat A.1a over A.1. After all inc there are 80-88-98-108-122-136 dc on front piece and back piece, on sleeve there are A.1, 38-40-44-50-54-58 dc and A.1. Piece measures approx. 14-15-16-17-18-19 cm / 5½''-6''-6¼''-6¾''-7''-7½''. Work next round as follows: Work 1 dc in each of the first 40-44-49-54-61-68 dc, work 8 ch (= under sleeve), insert 1 marker thread in the middle between the new ch, skip: A.1a, 38-40-44-50-54-58 dc and A.1a (= sleeve), work 1 dc in each of the next 80-88-98-108-122-136 dc, 8 ch (= under sleeve), insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the new sts, skip: A.1a and 38-40-44-50-54-58 dc and A.1a (= sleeve), work 1 dc in each of the next 40-44-49-54-61-68 dc = 160-176-196-216-244-272 dc and 16 ch. Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Move marker threads when working, leave the marker in piece.

BODY:
Work 1 dc in every dc, 1 dc in every ch. There are 88-96-106-116-130-144 dc between marker threads on back piece and front piece. When piece measures 3 cm / 1'' (measured from marker), dec 1 st on each side of each marker thread in the side (= 4 sts dec) - READ DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every 4-4-3½-4½-4½-4½ cm / 1½"-1½"-1 1/4"-1 3/4"-1 3/4"-1 3/4" 3-3-4-3-3-4 more times = 160-176-192-216-244-268 dc in total. When piece measures 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm / 6¾''-7''-7½''-8''-8¼''-8¾'' (measured from marker), inc 1 st on each side of each marker thread (= 4 dc inc) – see INCREASE TIP-2. Repeat inc every 1½ cm / ½'' 6-6-7-6-6-7 more times = 188-204-224-244-272-300 dc. Continue with 1 dc in every dc until piece measures 32-33-34-35-36-37 cm / 12½''-13½''-13 3/8''-13¾''-14¼''-14½'' (measured from marker). Piece measures approx. 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm / 18''-19''-19¾''-20½''-21¼''-22'' in total from neck edge. Work 1 edge around the top as follows: Work * 1 sc in first/next dc, ch 4, skip approx. 1 cm / 3/8'' *, repeat from *-* around the entire top. Fasten off.

SLEEVE EDGE:
Sleeve is worked in the round, top down. Beg by working mid under sleeve as follows: Work 1 sc in 5th ch of the 8 ch worked in armhole on body. Work 3 ch (= 1 dc). Then work with 1 dc in each of the next ch 3, A.1a as before, 1 dc in each of the next 38-40-44-50-54-58 dc, A.1a as before, 1 dc in each of the last 4 ch under sleeve, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round. Work 1 dc in every dc and A.1a until 1 whole repetition of A.1a has been worked. Then work 1 dc in every dc, work A.1b over A.1a = 68-70-74-80-84-88 dc. On next round work 1 dc in every dc AT THE SAME TIME dec 12 dc evenly = 56-58-62-68-72-76 dc. Work 1 dc in every dc until sleeve edge measures approx. 4 cm / 1½''. Work * 1 sc in first/next dc, ch 4, skip approx. 1 cm / 3/8'' *, repeat from *-* around the entire sleeve. Fasten off. Work a sleeve edge around the other sleeve.

NECK EDGE:
Beg mid back. Work ch 1, * 1 sc in first/next dc, ch 4, skip approx. 1 cm / 3/8'' *, repeat from *-* around the entire neck, finish with 1 sl st in first ch, make sure to avoid a tight neck edge.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= ch
= sc in dc
= sc around ch-ring
= dc in dc
= dc around ch-space
= Bobble: Work dc-group with 4 dc in same dc: * Work 1 dc but wait with last pull through *, repeat from *-* 3 more times in same dc, 1 YO, pull yarn through all sts on hook.
= first round is explained in pattern


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-1287) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (47)

Raquel 17.09.2019 - 22:43:

Hola, en cuantas vueltas tengo que hacer el raglan, o tengo que combinarlo con los aumentos en las vueltas, gracias.

DROPS Design 22.10.2019 kl. 00:08:

Hola Raquel. El raglán se trabaja según el patrón hasta que el canesú mida aprox 14-15-16-17-18-19 cm ( según tu talla). En este modelo se trabajan al mismo tiempo los aumentos para el raglán y los aumentos repartidos en la vuelta.

Irene 03.08.2019 - 17:36:

Vi ringrazio per la risposta rapida, ma mi avete ripetuto quanto già scritto, quello che è poco chiaro è proprio il paragrafo raglan: quante volte aumento 1 / 2 m.a. prima/dopo A1? Considerate che sto lavorando una XL. Io provo ad aumentare per il corpo 2ma ogni riga per 9 volte e 9 volte 1 ma ogni riga alternando prima e dopo A1 . Per le maniche 3 volte 2 ma e 15 volte 1 ma ogni riga alternando prima e dopo A1. Faccio bene ? Grazie

DROPS Design 03.08.2019 kl. 18:13:

Buongiorno Irene. Sì, per la taglia XL, gli aumenti per il raglan sono corretti come ha indicato. Può esserle di aiuto farsi una tabella con indicato, per ogni riga, quante maglie aumentare sul davanti e sul dietro e quante maglie aumentare sulle maniche. Buon lavoro!

Irene 03.08.2019 - 12:18:

Dalle spiegazioni capisco come fare gli aumenti ai raglan, ma non mi è chiaro quanti aumenti fare per i raglan e ogni quanti giri. Potreste aiutarmi? Grazie

DROPS Design 03.08.2019 kl. 12:46:

Buongiorno Irene, per gli aumenti del raglan deve seguire le indicazioni riportate nel testo, in modo diverso per il corpo e le maniche e per le diverse taglie: aumentare 2 m.a ad ogni giro 3-4-7-9-13-16 volte in tutto, poi 1 m.a ad ogni giro 12-12-10-9-6-5 volte in tutto. AUMENTARE COME SEGUE SULLE MANICHE: aumentare 2 m.a ad ogni giro 0-0-1-3-4-4 volte in tutto, poi 1 m.a ad ogni giro 15-16-16-15-15-17 volte in tutto. Per aumentare 1 o 2 m.a deve fare riferimento al paragrafo RAGLAN. Buon lavoro!

Anne Nieuwdorp 03.08.2019 - 00:08:

Ik haak maat XXL en moet aan het eind van alle meerderingen 58 steken op de mouw hebben staan. Ik begrijp alleen niet hoe ik op dat aantal stokjes moet uitkomen. Je start met "2 stk in volgende stk, 1 stk in de volgende 4 stk, 2 stk in volgende stk" (=8 stk). Dan de volgende 4 toeren 2 stk per toer meerderen (nogmaals 8 stk) en de daaropvolgende 17 toeren 1 stk per toer meerderen (=17stk). Ik kom dan op 8+8+17= 33 stk ipv 58. Snap er niets van...

DROPS Design 11.08.2019 kl. 16:10:

Dag Annie,

Voordat je begint met meerderen heb je 8 stokjes op de mouw staan. Dan meerder je 2 steken elke toer 4 keer aan beide kanten van A.1! Dat is dus 16 erbij = 24. Dan 1 steek elke toer 15 keer (ook beide kanten) = 30 erbij waardoor je op 54 komt.

Tove 06.05.2019 - 11:35:

Udtaningerne til raglan forstår jeg ikke, skal der være 2 masker på ryg og forstyk og 1 på ærme ( i hver side.

DROPS Design 06.05.2019 kl. 13:04:

Hei Tove. Du øker på hver side an A.1, og du øker enten 1 eller 2 staver. Jeg antar du strikker størrelse L - i så fall stemmer det du sier. Du hekler slik: På for og bakstykket begynner du med å øke 2 staver ved A.1, på hver omgang, dette gjør du totalt 7 ganger. Etter det går du over til å øke 1 stav, og dette gjør du hver omgang totalt 10 ganger. Samtidig som du øker på for- og bakstykket, øker du på ermene, slik: øk 2 staver 1 gang, og så går du over til å øke 1 stav og dette gjør du hver omgang totalt 16 ganger. Du har altså økt totalt 17 ganger på hver side av A.1, men du har ikke alltid økt like mange masker på hver side. God fornøyelse

Renske Bruijel 19.02.2019 - 11:32:

Graag zou ik verder met mijn haakwerk. Helaas heb ik nog geen atwoord op mijn vraag. Is het mogelijk die te beantwoorden of ben ik te ongeduldig. Dank en groet, RMB

Lainscak Annie 19.02.2019 - 10:53:

Merci beaucoup

Lainscak Annie 16.02.2019 - 21:35:

Bonsoir J'ai une petite incompréhension pour le raglan. vous ne dites pas combien de fois doit on augmenter de mailles de chaque coté du point A1 et si il faut alterner des doubles augmentations avec des simples. Merci d'avance de votre réponse

DROPS Design 18.02.2019 kl. 09:53:

Bonjour Mme Lainsack, on va augmenter différemment en fonction de la taille et des manches ainsi: devant et dos: 3-16 x 2 brides tous les tours puis 12-5 x 1 b tous les tours et sur les manches: 0-2 x 2 b tous les tours et 15-17x 1 b tous les tours. Bon crochet!

Renske Bruijel 14.02.2019 - 12:33:

Wat ik niet begrijp: gezien van patroon XL voor de mouw A1-11-A! is 20 steken. Dan meerderen: 3x 2st en 15x 1 st. Is totaal 41 st. Volgens de beschrijving heeft de mouw nu 50 steken. Ik pieker me suf waar die andere 9 st dan vandaan komen. Kunt u me uit de nood helpen? Dank en groet, RMB

DROPS Design 07.03.2019 kl. 22:35:

Dag Renske,

Op het voor- en achterpand zijn er 50 steken (niet de mouw) en op elke mouw A.1(11 st), 8 steken en A.1(11 st.). 2 keer A.1 plus 8 steken is 30 steken ipv 20 steken.

Emma 29.10.2018 - 15:37:

Hallo, ich bin bei der 3. Runde und häkel Gr. M. Ich häkel die 3. Runde nach der Anleitung die unter "RAGLANZUNAHMEN" steht 2x um die Runde zu schließen. Wenn ich dann die 4. Runde nach Anleitung häkel (Absatz "WIE FOLGT AM VORDER-...") komme ich nicht auf je 88 Stb. bzw. 40 Stb. an den Ärmeln, sondern auf insgesamt 12 Stb mehr. Warum? Muss ich beide Runden zu einer kombinieren? Viele Grüße, Emma

DROPS Design 29.10.2018 kl. 16:15:

Liebe Emma, nach der 1. Zunahme haben Sie 12 Maschen zugenommen und wenn alle Zunahmen fertig sind, dann bekommen Sie 88 Stb für Vorder- & Rückenteil und 40 M für jeden Ärmel. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

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