DROPS Extra / 0-1287

Warm Apricot by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS top with lace pattern and raglan in ”Safran”. The piece is worked top down. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no e-243
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
350-350-400-450-450-500 g color no 13, coral

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 – or size needed to get 22 dc x 12 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1.

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first dc at on every dc round with ch 3, finish the round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
On every sc round, replace first sc with 1 ch and finish round with 1 sl st in 1st ch from beg of round.

INCREASE TIP-1:
Inc 1 dc by working 2 dc in same dc.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
Work until 3 dc remain before marker thread, work 2 dc in next dc (= 1 dc inc), work 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc (marker thread is in the middle of these sts), work 2 dc in next dc (= 1 dc inc).

RAGLAN:
Inc for raglan on each side of A.1.
Inc 2 sts BEFORE A.1 as follows: Work until 2 dc remain before A.1, work 2 dc in each of the next 2 dc (= 2 dc inc).
Inc 2 sts AFTER A.1 as follows: Work 2 dc in each of the first 2 dc after A.1 (= 2 dc inc).
Inc 1 sts BEFORE A.1 as follows: Work until 1 dc remains before A.1, work 2 dc in next dc (= 1 dc inc).
Inc 1 sts AFTER A.1 as follows: Work 2 dc in first dc after A.1 (= 1 dc inc).
The inc on body and sleeves are uneven as explained in pattern.

DECREASE TIP:
Work until 4 dc remain before marker thread, work the next 2 dc tog as follows: Work 1 dc in next dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work 1 dc in next dc, but on last pull through pull yarn through all sts on hook - 1 dc have been dec, work 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc (marker thread is between these sts), work the next 2 dc tog (= 1 dc dec).
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YOKE:
The piece is worked top down. Work 161-166-171-176-181-186 ch on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 with Safran. Work next round as follows: Work 1 dc in 4th ch from hook (= 2 dc) - READ CROCHET INFO, 1 dc in each of the next ch 2, * skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 128-132-136-140-144-148 dc.

Then work next round as follows: Work 1 dc in each of the first 18-19-20-21-22-23 dc AT THE SAME TIME inc 4-5-5-6-7-8 dc evenly – READ INCREASE TIP-1 – (= half back piece), A.1 over the next 11 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, 2 dc in next dc, A.1 over the next 11 dc (= sleeve), 1 dc in each of the next 36-38-40-42-44-46 dc AT THE SAME TIME inc 8-10-10-12-14-16 dc evenly (= front piece), A.1 over the next 11 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, 2 dc in next dc, A.1 over the next 11 dc (= sleeve), 1 dc in each of the last 18-19-20-21-22-23 dc AT THE SAME TIME inc 4-5-5-6-7-8 dc evenly. On front and back piece there are now 44-48-50-54-58-62 dc and on sleeve there are A.1, 8 dc and A.1. On next round inc for RAGLAN – see explanation above!

INC AS FOLLOWS ON FRONT AND BACK PIECE: Inc 2 dc every round 3-4-7-9-13-16 times in total, then 1 dc every round 12-12-10-9-6-5 times in total.
INC AS FOLLOWS ON SLEEVES: Inc 2 dc every round 0-0-1-3-4-4 times in total, then 1 dc every round 15-16-16-15-15-17 times in total. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!

When A.1 have been worked 1 time vertically, repeat A.1a over A.1. After all inc there are 80-88-98-108-122-136 dc on front piece and back piece, on sleeve there are A.1, 38-40-44-50-54-58 dc and A.1. Piece measures approx. 14-15-16-17-18-19 cm / 5½''-6''-6¼''-6¾''-7''-7½''. Work next round as follows: Work 1 dc in each of the first 40-44-49-54-61-68 dc, work 8 ch (= under sleeve), insert 1 marker thread in the middle between the new ch, skip: A.1a, 38-40-44-50-54-58 dc and A.1a (= sleeve), work 1 dc in each of the next 80-88-98-108-122-136 dc, 8 ch (= under sleeve), insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the new sts, skip: A.1a and 38-40-44-50-54-58 dc and A.1a (= sleeve), work 1 dc in each of the next 40-44-49-54-61-68 dc = 160-176-196-216-244-272 dc and 16 ch. Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Move marker threads when working, leave the marker in piece.

BODY:
Work 1 dc in every dc, 1 dc in every ch. There are 88-96-106-116-130-144 dc between marker threads on back piece and front piece. When piece measures 3 cm / 1'' (measured from marker), dec 1 st on each side of each marker thread in the side (= 4 sts dec) - READ DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every 4-4-3½-4½-4½-4½ cm / 1½"-1½"-1 1/4"-1 3/4"-1 3/4"-1 3/4" 3-3-4-3-3-4 more times = 160-176-192-216-244-268 dc in total. When piece measures 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm / 6¾''-7''-7½''-8''-8¼''-8¾'' (measured from marker), inc 1 st on each side of each marker thread (= 4 dc inc) – see INCREASE TIP-2. Repeat inc every 1½ cm / ½'' 6-6-7-6-6-7 more times = 188-204-224-244-272-300 dc. Continue with 1 dc in every dc until piece measures 32-33-34-35-36-37 cm / 12½''-13½''-13 3/8''-13¾''-14¼''-14½'' (measured from marker). Piece measures approx. 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm / 18''-19''-19¾''-20½''-21¼''-22'' in total from neck edge. Work 1 edge around the top as follows: Work * 1 sc in first/next dc, ch 4, skip approx. 1 cm / 3/8'' *, repeat from *-* around the entire top. Fasten off.

SLEEVE EDGE:
Sleeve is worked in the round, top down. Beg by working mid under sleeve as follows: Work 1 sc in 5th ch of the 8 ch worked in armhole on body. Work 3 ch (= 1 dc). Then work with 1 dc in each of the next ch 3, A.1a as before, 1 dc in each of the next 38-40-44-50-54-58 dc, A.1a as before, 1 dc in each of the last 4 ch under sleeve, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round. Work 1 dc in every dc and A.1a until 1 whole repetition of A.1a has been worked. Then work 1 dc in every dc, work A.1b over A.1a = 68-70-74-80-84-88 dc. On next round work 1 dc in every dc AT THE SAME TIME dec 12 dc evenly = 56-58-62-68-72-76 dc. Work 1 dc in every dc until sleeve edge measures approx. 4 cm / 1½''. Work * 1 sc in first/next dc, ch 4, skip approx. 1 cm / 3/8'' *, repeat from *-* around the entire sleeve. Fasten off. Work a sleeve edge around the other sleeve.

NECK EDGE:
Beg mid back. Work ch 1, * 1 sc in first/next dc, ch 4, skip approx. 1 cm / 3/8'' *, repeat from *-* around the entire neck, finish with 1 sl st in first ch, make sure to avoid a tight neck edge.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= ch
= sc in dc
= sc around ch-ring
= dc in dc
= dc around ch-space
= Bobble: Work dc-group with 4 dc in same dc: * Work 1 dc but wait with last pull through *, repeat from *-* 3 more times in same dc, 1 YO, pull yarn through all sts on hook.
= first round is explained in pattern


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-1287) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (57)

Claudia 07.11.2020 - 00:52:

Hola! Perdon pero no me queda muy claro si se trabaja en redondo o de ida y vuelta? Les agradeceria si me lo explicaran. Gracias!

DROPS Design 19.11.2020 kl. 20:58:

Hola Claudia, la labor se trabaja en redondo; cada vuelta se termina con 1 punto enano en la 3ª cadeneta/1ª cadeneta del inicio de la vuelta.

Sara 09.09.2020 - 15:02:

Danke für die schöne Anleitung. Leider enthält die Anleitung auf Deutsch einige Flüchtigkeitsfehler, die mich manchmal ins Stolpern gebracht habe. Anstelle der Abkürzung Rd für Runde wird manchmal R verwendet, was aber für Reihe steht, welche in dieser Anleitung gar nicht vorhanden sind. Im ersten Satz des Abschnitts "Rumpfteil" wird A1a erwähnt, obwohl gar nicht mit A1a weiter gehäkelt wird. Ansonsten eine wirklich schöne Arbeit, die Freude beim Häkeln macht.

DROPS Design 09.09.2020 kl. 21:01:

Liebe Sara, vielen Dank für Ihre Anmerkungen! Die Anleitung wurde nun korrigiert. Viel Spaß beim Weiterhäkeln und beim Tragen dieses schönen Tops! :-)

Katharina 14.06.2020 - 13:21:

Hallo, ich habe eine Frage zum Muster. Wird A. 1a immer nur wiederholt oder auch A 1b? Das Bild sieht so aus, dass nur A 1a wiederholt wird. Vielen Dank für die Antwort. Katharina

Silvia 29.05.2020 - 15:41:

Buongiorno, ho inteso che la maglia é lavorata in tondo top down, ma non capisco quando chiudere il cerchio: il modello dice di lavorare tot catenelle per lo sprone, ma non di chiudere il cerchio con una maglia bassissima nella prima catenella e continuare a lavorare in tondo. Nonostante questo, non c'é scritto da nessuna parte di girare il lavoro. È poco chiaro

DROPS Design 31.05.2020 kl. 20:49:

Buonasera Silvia, questa maglia è lavorata in tondo, infatti il 1° giro inizia con 1 maglia alta nella 4° catenella. Si ricordi di leggere il suggerimento per il lavoro, per l'inizio e la fine dei giri. Buon lavoro!

Ana Mafalda Faria 29.03.2020 - 20:05:

Olá. Só para confirmar: a peça crocheta-se de cima para baixo, em redondo, e a peça não se vira após cada volta, certo? Obrigado

Elisabeth 27.03.2020 - 18:56:

Bonjour, pour les augmentations (top taille XL) : est-ce 2 brides par tour pendant 9 tours puis 1 bride pendant 9 tours? ou est-ce 9 x 2 brides par tour et dans ce cas combien de tours faut-il pour arrêter les augmentations? même question pour l'augmentation d'une bride. Merci d'avance pour votre réponse

DROPS Design 30.03.2020 kl. 08:45:

Bonjour Elisabeth, les augmentations dos/devant ne se font pas au même rythme que celles des manches, vous augmentez pour le dos/le devant: 9x 2 brides tous les tours + 9 x 1 b tous les tours (= 18 tours au total) et sur les manches: 3 x 2 b tous les tours + 15 fois 1 b tous les tours (= 18 tours au total) = vous augmenterez ainsi par tour: 16 brides (= 2 brides dos/devant/manches) au début puis 12 brides (= 2 brides dos/devant mais 1 bride manches) et enfin 8 brides (= 1 bride dos/devant/manches). Bon crochet!

Bonnie Carter 12.03.2020 - 20:15:

Just to let you know, I went into pattern for American English and British English and they both said, "..... All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. " I was hoping for a diagram showing inches, but both appear to have cm. Please advise. Thank you.

DROPS Design 13.03.2020 kl. 08:51:

Dear Mrs Carter, the US-English written pattern includes measurements in both cm and inches, but measurement chart will be only in cm - you can convert them into inches here. Happy crocheting!

Bonnie Carter 12.03.2020 - 06:53:

Hello again, just need to clarify, are the numbers on the sizing diagram in centimeters or inches? Thanks in advance.

DROPS Design 12.03.2020 kl. 07:09:

Hi Bonnie, If you are working with the US version, the measurements are in inches. The UK English version is in centimetres. Happy crocheting!

Bonnie Carter 28.02.2020 - 08:40:

Thanks so much for your help. Just a suggestion that might help clarify INC AS FOLLOWS ON SLEEVES... putting a note under saying, "(increase each side of center stitches on sleeves)" or something to that effect. I was having a hard time understanding where to make an inc on sleeve and this would have helped. Thanks again for all your help!

Bonnie Carter 27.02.2020 - 22:20:

Under YOKE, third paragraph, it reads, "INC AS FOLLOWS ON FRONT AND BACK PIECE: Inc 2 dc every round 3-4-... times in total, then 1 dc every round 12-12-... times in total. INC AS FOLLOWS ON SLEEVES: Inc 2 dc every round 0-0-... times in total, then 1 dc every ..........." My question is, is this paragraph explaining the raglan increases? If so, how do I know which raglan line is front and back and sleeves? Or are these increases that are separate from raglan. Not clear. Thanks.

DROPS Design 28.02.2020 kl. 08:18:

Dear Mrs Carter, yes this paragraph explains how to increase for raglan, these increases will be worked somewhat different, ie in size S for example you will increase at the beg 2 sts on body on every round and at the same time you increase 1 st on each sleeve on every round =8 + 12 sts increased - while on larger size you increase 2 sts on body and 2 sts on sleeves = 8 + 8 = 16 sts increased. Hope this helps. Happy crocheting!

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