DROPS / 167 / 14

Midsummer Joy by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS poncho with squares in ”Bomull-Lin”. One-size

Tags: ponchos, square, v-neck,

DROPS design: Pattern no l-137
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: One-size
Materials:
DROPS BOMULL-LIN from Garnstudio
300 g color no 02, off white
200 g color no 03, light beige
100 g color no 11, beige

NOTE: Poncho worked with one color = 500 g Bomull-Lin.

DROPS CROCHET Hook size 5 mm / H/8 – or size needed to get 14 dc in width x 8.5 rows vertically = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm). 1 square measures approx. 40 x 40 cm / 15 3/4" x 15 3/4".

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

53% Cotton, 47% Linen
from 3.75 $ /50g
DROPS Bomull-Lin uni colour DROPS Bomull-Lin uni colour 3.75 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 45.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
COLORS SQUARE:
Cast on + ROUND 1: beige, ROUND 2: light beige,
ROUND 3-6: beige, ROUND 7: off white, ROUND 8-10: light beige and
ROUND 11-15: off white.

COLORS EDGE:
ROUND 1-3: light beige, ROUND 4-5: off white

DC-GROUP:
Work 1 dc around next ch/ch-space but wait with last YO and pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work 1 dc more around same ch/ch-space but on last pull through, pull yarn through all sts on hook.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

COLOR CHANGE TIP:
To get a nice transition when changing color change color when last YO and pull through on round remains, then pull last YO with new color through all sts on hook.

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first dc at beg of every dc round with ch 3, finish the round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
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PONCHO:
Work 4 large squares as explained below. Then work squares tog into a poncho. Work a neck edge at and an edge at the bottom around the poncho at the end.

SQUARE 1:
Work 4 ch on hook size 5 mm / H/8 with beige and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. READ COLORS SQUARE AND COLOR CHANGE TIP.
Then work according to diagram A.1, i.e. work as follows:
ROUND 1: 4 ch (= 1 dc + 1 ch), * 1 dc in ring, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 15 times, switch to light beige and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round (= 16 dc with 1 ch between each).
ROUND 2: 1 sl st around first ch, 3 ch (= 1 dc), work 1 dc around same ch, * work ch 2, around next ch work dc-GROUP – see explanation above *, repeat from *-* 15 times in total, work ch 2, switch to beige and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round (= 16 dc-groups with 2 ch between each).
ROUND 3: 1 sl st around first ch-space, 3 ch (= 1 dc), 1 dc around same ch-space, ch 3, 1 dc-group around same ch-space, * around next ch-space work 1 dc-group + 3 ch + 1 dc-group *, repeat from *-* 15 times in total and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round.
ROUND 4: 1 sl st around first ch-space, 4 ch (= 1 sc + 3 ch), 1 sc around same ch-space, * around next ch-space work 1 sc + 3 ch + 1 sc *, repeat from *-* 15 times in total and finish with 1 sl st in 1st ch at beg of round.
ROUND 5: 1 sl st around first ch-space, 3 ch (= 1 dc), 1 dc + 4 ch + 1 dc-group around same ch-space, * around next ch-space work 1 dc-group + 4 ch + 1 dc-group *, repeat from *-* 15 times in total and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round.
ROUND 6: 1 sl st around first ch-space, 5 ch (= 1 sc + 4 ch), 1 sc around same ch-space, * around next ch-space work 1 sc + 4 ch + 1 sc *, repeat from *-* 15 times in total, switch to off white and finish with 1 sl st in 1st ch at beg of round.
ROUND 7: Work sl sts until middle of first ch-space, 9 ch (= 1 sc + 8 ch), * (1 sc around next ch-space, 6 ch), repeat from (-) 3 times in total **, 1 sc around next ch-space, 8 ch *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total but finish last repetition after **. Switch to light beige and work 1 sl st in first ch at beg of round.
ROUND 8: Work sl sts until middle of first ch-space, 4 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr + 3 ch + 2 tr around same ch-space (= corner), * ch 5, 1 hdc around next ch-space, ch 5, 1 sc around next ch-space, ch 5, 1 hdc around next ch-space, 5 ch **, around next ch-space work 2 tr + 3 ch + 2 tr *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total but finish last repetition after **, finish with 1 sl st in 4th ch at beg of round.
ROUND 9: Work 1 sl st in next dc and 1 sl st around ch-space in the corner, 4 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr + 3 ch + 2 tr around same ch-space (= corner), * ch 1, then work 7 dc around each of the next 4 ch-spaces, 1 ch **, around next ch-space work 2 tr + 3 ch + 2 tr *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total but finish last repetition after **, finish with 1 sl st in 4th ch at beg of round.
ROUND 10: Work 1 sl st in next dc and 1 sl st around ch-space in the corner, 4 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr + 3 ch + 2 tr around same ch-space (= corner), * (6 ch, 1 dc in 4th dc in first/next dc-group), repeat from (-) 4 times in total, 6 ch **, around next ch-space work 2 tr + 3 ch + 2 tr (= corner) *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total but finish last repetition after **, switch to off white and finish with 1 sl st in 4th ch at beg of round.
ROUND 11: Work 1 sl st in next dc and 1 sl st around ch-space in the corner, 4 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr + 3 ch + 2 tr around same ch-space (= corner), * ch 1, then work 7 dc around each of the next 5 ch-spaces, 1 ch **, around next ch-space work 2 tr + 3 ch + 2 tr (= corner) *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total but finish last repetition after **, finish with 1 sl st in 4th ch at beg of round.
ROUND 12: Work 1 sl st in next dc and 1 sl st around ch-space in the corner, 4 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr + 3 ch + 2 tr around same ch-space (= corner), * ch 1, 1 tr around first ch, (1 ch, skip 1 dc, 1 tr in next dc), repeat from (-) 17 times in total, ch 1, 1 tr around ch, 1 ch **, around next ch-space work 2 tr + 3 ch + 2 tr *, repeat from *-* 4 times but finish last repetition after **, finish with 1 sl st in 4th ch at beg of round.
ROUND 13: Work 1 sl st in next dc and 1 sl st around ch-space in the corner, 3 ch (= 1 dc), 1 dc + 3 ch + 2 dc around same ch-space (= corner), * ch 1, then work 1 dc around every ch and 1 dc in every dc until next corner (= 39 dc between corners), 1 ch **, around next ch-space work 2 dc + 3 ch + 2 dc (= corner) *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total but finish last repetition after **, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round.
ROUND 14: Work 1 sl st in next dc and 1 sl st around ch-space in the corner, 3 ch (= 1 dc), 1 dc + 3 ch + 2 dc around same ch-space (= corner), * ch 1, 1 dc around first ch, (1 ch, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc), repeat from (-) 19 times in total, ch 1, 1 dc around ch, 1 ch **, around next ch-space work 2 dc + 3 ch + 2 dc *, repeat from *-* 4 times but finish last repetition after **, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round.
ROUND 15: Work 1 sl st in next dc and 1 sl st around ch-space in the corner, 3 ch (= 1 dc), 1 dc + 3 ch + 2 dc around same ch-space (= corner), * ch 1, then work 1 dc around every ch and 1 dc in every dc until next corner (= 43 dc between corners), 1 ch **, around next ch-space work 2 dc + 3 ch + 2 dc (= corner) *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total but finish last repetition after **, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round. Fasten off. Square measures approx. 40 x 40 cm / 15 3/4" x 15 3/4".

NOTE: If you want a bigger poncho repeat ROUND 14-15 until desired measurements.

ASSEMBLY:
Place squares as shown in chart. Place 2 squares on top of each other WS against WS, and crochet them tog with light beige as follows: Work 1 sc around ch-space in the corner on first square, ch 1, 1 sc around ch-space in the corner on second square, * ch 2, skip 2 dc on first square, 1 sc in next dc on first square, ch 2, skip 2 dc on second square, 1 sc in next dc on second square *, repeat from *-* until next corner, finish with 2 ch before transition to next square. Fasten off.

NECK EDGE:
Work a finishing edge around the neck on hook size 5 mm / H/8 with light beige as follows - READ CROCHET INFO: Work 2nd round in A.2 but mid front and mid back where there are ch-spaces work 1 dc around every ch-space with 1 ch between each. Work 3rd round in A.2 but mid front and mid back work the middle 3 dc tog as follows: Work 1 dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 loops on hook), work next dc but wait with last pull through (= 3 loops on hook), work next dc but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 4 loops on hook. Fasten off.

EDGE AROUND THE BOTTOM OF PONCHO:
Work a finishing edge around the bottom of poncho on hook size 5 mm / H/8 as follows - READ COLORS EDGE and CROCHET INFO: Beg with light beige and work pattern according to diagram A.2, i.e. work as follows: NOTE: To continue the edge into a nice tip as on squares it is important to continue inc mid front and mid back as before, i.e. around the middle ch-space mid front and mid back work 2 ch + 2 dc + 3 ch + 2 dc + 2 ch on every round the same way as on the squares.
ROUND 1: Work 1 dc in every dc around the entire poncho but where 2 squares meet and where there are ch-spaces work 2 dc around every ch-space.
ROUND 2: * 1 dc in first/next dc, ch 1, skip 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round but continue tip mid front and mid back as explained above.
ROUND 3: Work 1 dc in every dc and 1 dc around every ch but continue tip mid front and mid back. Switch to off white.
ROUND 4: 1 dc, ch 3, 1 sl st in the first of the ch 3, work 2 dc in same st (= 1 dc-group with picot), * ch 1, skip 3 dc, in next dc work 1 dc, ch 3, 1 sl st in the first of the ch 3, work 2 dc in same dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round but make sure that it matches nicely with tip mid front and mid back.
ROUND 5: * ch 6, skip dc-group, 1 sc around next ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round. Fasten off.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 22.08.2016
New yarn amount: 100 g colour no 11, beige 300 g colour no 02, off white
Updated online: 22.05.2018
A correction has been made to the 4 round of the edge around the bottom. It now says skip 3 tr - previously: skip 3 ch

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= Work 4 ch and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch ( see point on circle), round beg and ends here
= 1 ch
= 1 sc around ch-space
= 1 sc around ch-space but at beg of round work sl sts until middle of space, work 1 ch (= 1 sc), finish round with 1 sl st in ch at beg of round
= 1 hdc
= 1 dc around ch/ch-space (at beg of round replace first dc with ch 3, finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round)
= 1 dc in dc (at beg of round replace first dc with ch 3, finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round)
= 1 tr in dc
= dc-group with 2 dc: Work 1 dc around next ch/ch-space but wait with last pull through (= 2 loops on hook), then work next dc around same ch/ch-space but on last pull through, pull yarn through all loops on hook (at beg of round replace first dc with ch 3, finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round)
= Work as follows in ch-space in the corner: 2 dc + 3 ch + 2 dc (at beg of round work sl sts until ch-space, replace first dc with 3 ch and finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round)
= Work as follows in ch-space in the corner: 2 tr + 3 ch + 2 tr (at beg of round work sl sts until ch-space, replace first tr with 4 ch and finish round with 1 sl st in 4th ch at beg of round)
= Work as follows in ch-space in the corner: 2 tr + 3 ch + 2 tr (at beg of round work sl sts until middle of ch-space, replace first tr with 4 ch and finish round with 1 sl st in 4th ch at beg of round)
= dc-group with picot: Work 1 dc in first/next st, ch 3, 1 sl st in the first of the ch 3, work 2 dc in same st (at beg of round replace first dc with ch 3, finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round)


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 167-14) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (40)

Teresa 03.08.2019 - 22:37:

Como ha indicado varias personas el patron en la fila 6 no está bien. En el poncho de la foto esa vuelta no está y si se hace como dice el patron el círculo queda rizado. Se debe poner 5 puntos de cadeneta entre los arcos no 4, como dice el patrón.

Magda 30.01.2019 - 22:56:

Damit sich das quadrat nicht wölbt den rat von Anja befolgen : einfach die 6. Reihe überspringen. Bei mir klappte es danach wunderbar.

Jaqueline Saenz Chavarria 30.05.2018 - 05:22:

Buenas noches , quisiera saber si tienen video ?de como hacer el cuadrado completo, xk los simbolos son diferentes a los que conosco , gracias .

DROPS Design 03.06.2018 kl. 10:43:

Hola Jaqueline. Todos los vídeos relacionados con el patrón los puedes encontrar a la izquierda de la página. En este momento no hay ningún vídeo del cuadrado completo. Tienes todas las abreviaciones necesarias para entender el patrón encima del diagrama.

Margaret Morris 24.04.2018 - 21:27:

Round 4 of bottom edge: after the first dc-group with picot, should it not read *ch1, skip 3dc INSTEAD OF *ch1, skip ch3......? The previous row is dcs, not chains.

DROPS Design 25.04.2018 kl. 08:12:

Dear Mrs Morris, thanks for your feedback I think you're right, our Design Team will check and edit. Happy crocheting!

Graftiau 04.04.2018 - 18:56:

Bonjour, J'aimerais savoir si les couleurs réelles du fil se rapprochent plus des couleurs de la photo en gros plan ou de la photo du poncho entier? Merci

DROPS Design 05.04.2018 kl. 08:27:

Bonjour Mme Graftiau, les couleurs peuvent varier d'un ordinateur à l'autre, n'hésitez pas à contacter votre magasin DROPS pour plus d'infos sur les couleurs et toute aide pour en choisir d'autres si besoin. Bon crochet!

Brandi Perkins 03.02.2018 - 19:26:

I noticed in rounds 9, 10, 11, and 12 of the square it says to slip stitch into next dc and chain space, but it's not a dc, it's a tr unless I'm doing something wrong. I'm left-handed so that might be the issue, but I haven't had any problems following the pattern because of this. If I'm wrong I apologize, but it seems wrong to me.

Azzarine 10.08.2017 - 00:55:

Magnifique mais le problème sur ce site, c'est que les diagrammes sont illisibles... Heureusement qu'il existe des diagrammes clairs pour faire des grannys, sur d'autre sites

DROPS Design 10.08.2017 kl. 09:21:

Bonjour Azzarine, vous trouverez la légende des symboles utilisés dans les diagrammes juste au-dessus des dits diagrammes. Pour toute assistance complémentaire à la lecture de ces derniers, n'hésitez pas à contacter votre magasin DROPS, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon crochet!

Michele Marcus 11.07.2017 - 22:01:

Do you recommend blocking the work? And if you do, before or after assembling it? Thank you

DROPS Design 12.07.2017 kl. 08:58:

Dear Mrs Marcus, some crocheters block every piece (either before assembly or after) while some other do not. Blocking a crochet piece gives it shape and sets the stitches in that shape. Happy crocheting!

Liz 01.07.2017 - 16:47:

Bij de symbolenuitleg voor het telpatroon zie ik vakjes met een vraagteken er in. Hoe kom ik erachter welk symbool hier wordt bedoeld?

DROPS Design 04.07.2017 kl. 15:54:

Hoi Liz, Vermoedelijk gaat er iets mis bij het laden van de pagina en worden die plaatjes niet goed weegegeven in de browser. Misschien kun je proberen om even de pagina te verversen (met functietoets F5) of de pagina in een andere browser te bekijken (bijvoorbeeld chrome, edge, firfox)

Sharon Yarwood 22.05.2017 - 18:59:

Love this pattern, I am at the neck edge and my only question is where to start the first stitch, (ch3). Thanks in advance, loving this poncho!

DROPS Design 23.05.2017 kl. 06:59:

Dear Sharon, it would be best if you start the neck edge at one of the shoulders. I hope this helps. Happy crocheting!

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