DROPS / 167 / 21

Sweet Martine by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS poncho with squares and lace pattern in ”Cotton Light”. The piece is worked top down. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no cl-060
Yarn group B
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Size: S/M – L/XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio
400-400-450-500 g color no 21, light beige
150 g for all sizes in color no 01, off white
NOTE: Poncho worked in one color = 500-550-600-650 g Cotton Light.

DROPS CROCHET Hook size 4 mm / G/6 – or size needed to get 18 dc x 9 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 2.20 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Light uni colour DROPS Cotton Light uni colour 2.20 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. On diagram A.1 work first round in the entire round, then repeat A.1 and A.3 4 times in total on round. Diagram A.2 shows how every round beg and ends. A.5 shows how squares are assembled.

CROCHET INFO:
Beg every round with dc with 3 ch and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch.

STRIPES:
Work 0-4-4-4 rounds with light beige, then work * 2 rounds with off white, work 4 round with light beige *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total.

INCREASE:
On 1st round in A.4 (i.e. round with dc and ch) inc as follows: Work ch 1, around ch-space at the tip work as follows: 2 dc around ch-space, ch 3, 2 dc around same ch-space.
On 2nd round in A.4 (i.e. round with dc) inc as follows: Work 1 dc around ch, around ch-space at the tip work as follows: 2 dc around ch-space, ch 3, 2 dc around same ch-space.
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PONCHO:
The piece is worked from the neck down. First work squares as follows:

SQUARE:
Work 4 ch on hook size 4 mm / G/6 with light beige and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. Work A.1. Diagram A.2 shows how every round beg and ends. When first round of A.1 is worked, repeat A.1 4 times in total on round. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 16 ch-spaces and 4 corners.

Work A.3 over A.1, i.e. repeat A.3 4 times in total on round (see diagram for correct size). NOTE: First round in A.3 is not worked, it only shows how next round is worked around sts. Diagram A.2 shows how every round beg and ends. When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 80-80-100-120 dc and 4 corners. Fasten off. Square measures approx. 15-15-17-19 x 15-15-17-19 cm / 6"-6"-6 3/4"-7½" x 6"-6"-6 3/4"-7½". REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! Work 8 squares.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew squares tog edge to edge (see A.5) i.e. sew in outer loops of edge sts. These make up the upper part of poncho. Now work in the round from bottom edge of squares as follows:

FROM SQUARES AND DOWN:
ROUND 1: Beg in the side of square (see A.5), in the middle of the 1st square (i.e. 10-10-12-15 dc before corner). Work 3 ch – READ CROCHET INFO, work 1 dc in each of the first 10-10-12-15 dc, * over the 2 corners sewn tog work as follows: 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, 2 dc around each of the next 2 corners, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc *, then work 1 dc in every dc until next corner sewn tog (= over the next 20-20-25-30 dc), repeat from *-* over the next 2 corners sewn tog, 1 dc in each of the next 20-20-25-30 dc, over the next corner inc (see A.5) as follows: Work 1 dc around ch, around ch-space at the tip work as follows: 2 dc around ch-space, ch 3, 2 dc around same ch-space, 1 dc around next ch. Work 1 dc in every dc and from *-* over the next 8 corners sewn tog and the next 100-100-125-150 dc (i.e. 20-20-25-30 dc between each of the 2 corners sewn tog).
Around next corner inc as follows: Work 1 dc around ch, around ch-space at the tip work as follows: 2 dc around ch-space, ch 3, 2 dc around same ch-space. Work 1 dc in every dc and from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch = 276-276-326-376 dc.

ROUND 2: Work with off white - READ STRIPES. Work A.4 until 3 dc remain before ch-space in the tip, adjust to finish with 1 dc in last dc, work INCREASE – see explanation above. Repeat A.4 until next tip, work increase, work A.4 the rest of round. On every round inc 8 dc, i.e. inc 2 dc on each side of mid front/back.

Repeat stripes and A.4 until finished measurements. When stripes have been worked, piece measures approx. 36-40-42-44 cm / 14 1/4"-15 3/4"-16½"-17 1/4" from the neck.

EDGE AT THE BOTTOM:
ROUND 1: Work with light beige. Work ch 1, work 1 sc in first dc, work * ch 5, skip 4 dc, 1 sc in next dc *, repeat from *-* until mid front/back, ** adjust so that last sc is worked around ch-space mid front/back, ch 5, 1 sc around same ch-space **, repeat from *-* until mid front/back, repeat from **-** around ch-space mid front/back, repeat from *-* the rest of round, finish with 1 sl st in first ch at beg of round.

ROUND 2: Work ch 3, 1 sl st around first ch-space, 2 ch (= 1 hdc), work * ch 4, 1 hdc around next ch-space *, repeat from *-* until ch-space mid front/back, ** ch 4, around ch-space mid front/back work 1 hdc + 4 ch + 1 hdc **, repeat from *-* until mid front/back, repeat from **-** around ch-space mid front/back, repeat from *-* the rest of round, finish with 1 sl st in 2nd ch (= hdc) at beg of round.

ROUND 3: Work 3 ch (= 1 dc), work 5 dc around every ch-space, around ch-space mid front/back work: ch 1, 2 dc around ch-space, ch 3, 2 dc around same ch-space, ch 1, finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round. Fasten off.

NECK EDGE:
Beg mid front - see diagram and work with light beige on hook size 4 mm / G/6. Work as follows from RS:

ROUND 1: Work 1 sc around ch-space in the middle (tip for the middle square), ** work ch 5, skip corner (i.e. 3 ch + 2 dc), 1 sc around ch, * ch 5, skip 5 dc, 1 sc between 2 dc *, repeat from *-* 2-2-3-4 more times, ch 5, skip 5 dc, 1 sc around ch, ch 5, 1 sc in seam between squares **, repeat from **-** around the entire neck, finish with 1 sl st in first sc.

ROUND 2: Work ch 2, 1 sl st around first ch-space, 2 ch (= 1 hdc), * ch 4, 1 hdc around next ch-space *, repeat from *-* until 1 ch-space remains before mid back, work 1 hdc around the next 2 ch-spaces, repeat from *-* until 1 ch-space remains, work 1 hdc around last ch-space, finish with 1 sl st in 2nd ch (= 1 hdc) at beg of round.

ROUND 3: Work 3 ch (= 1 dc), work 2 dc around first ch-space, work 5 dc around every ch-space until 1 ch-space remains before mid back, work 3 dc around each of the next 2 ch-spaces, work 5 dc around every ch-space until 1 ch-space remains, work 3 dc around last ch-space, finish with 1 sl st in first dc. Fasten off.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 12.04.2016
Correction: New diagram A.1 and A.2.
Updated online: 24.10.2016
New chart A.4 added.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= Work 4 ch and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch (see point on circle), start and stop round here.
= ch
= sc around ch-space
= beg round with ch 3, and finish round 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round
= dc around ch-space
= dc in dc
= dc-group with 2 dc: Work 1 dc around next ch/ch-space but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next dc around same ch/ch-space but on last pull through, pull yarn through all sts on hook.
= corner Work around ch-space as follows: 2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc
= crochet direction
= sl st
= this round is explained in pattern
= beg working from squares and down here
= mid front/back - inc here - see INCREASE
= beg working neck edge here




Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 167-21) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (63)

Cheryl Wentx 10.10.2020 - 18:15:

I find this pattern impossible to follow-love the poncho + would definitely make it if a written,understandable pattern was available

DROPS Design 12.10.2020 kl. 09:15:

Dear Mrs Wentx, The DROPS patterns are knitted and crocheted by thousands and thousands of people  around the world. We understand however that in certain countries, with different knitting/crochet traditions than Scandinavia, our patterns might be written in a way that differs from what some are used to. But of course we want everyone to understand our patterns, so that’s why we have created an extensive library of tutorial videos as well as step by step lessons that explain how to follow the techniques we use and how to read the diagrams in our patterns. Give them a try!

Conchi Hernández 01.05.2020 - 18:17:

Good afternoon, I would like to ask if there is any video where you can see the completion of the complete work. I'm not an expert and I have a hard time following the patterns. I would greatly appreciate your help because I am very interested in developing this project that you have called Pretty Boho Poncho. Sorry if the message is not entirely correct, my level of English is very basic. Cheers, Conchi Hernández

DROPS Design 04.05.2020 kl. 11:01:

Dear Mrs Hernández, you will find a video showing how to crochet a square to this poncho and this lesson shows how to read crochet diagrams. For any further individual assistance, you are welcome to contact your DROPS store, even per mail or telephone. Happy crocheting!

Louise Ebbeck 17.04.2020 - 01:04:

On the first round after the squares you state to increase on every corner but then from round 2, only increase on the front and back tips.ok. so what do I do on the 2 sides? Ive undone my work twice already because the sides curl and pucker without any increase. I have been crocheting for years but these instructions are confusing. I know how to do the increases..I just want specific instructions on how to go around the other two side points.

DROPS Design 17.04.2020 kl. 09:04:

Dear Mrs Ebbeck, follow the description of ROUND 1, you should incerase only in the squares with a round in A.5. After this round has been worked, simply work as shown in A.4 working the increase in the middle tip on front and on back piece. Happy crocheting!

Maria Mroz 18.02.2020 - 19:23:

Hello, What kind of crochet hook size should I use in USA size? I don't have 4mm. Also is there a whole video on how to make this? I am having trouble following the pattern. Thank you. Maria

DROPS Design 19.02.2020 kl. 09:03:

Dear Mrs Mroz, edit the language of the pattern clicking on the scroll down menu under picture and choose "English (US/in) to get the pattern in US-English including US-crochet terminology. you will find here how to read crochet diagrams and how to crochet a square here. Happy crocheting!

Marilyn Boyle 06.08.2019 - 22:18:

Disregard my question. I've discovered that I connected the squares incorrectly, have corrected so that there are only 2 points, not 4. Would be helpful to have it specified in the pattern how to do it correctly, instead of just 'sew squares together'.

Marilyn Boyle 05.08.2019 - 02:38:

I understand how to increase at the two points (top and bottom on A5), but don't understand, nor can I find specific instructions for, 'rounding' the other two points, the ones that will be over the arms. The written pattern seems to say to increase at all 4 points, the diagram says just top and bottom. How do I follow the pattern around (A4), with no increase on the side points (specifically what to do with the corner chains). Thank you in advance.

DROPS Design 07.08.2019 kl. 10:45:

Dear Mrs Boyle, the first round explains how to crochet the very first round after square, but then from round 2 you will increase only a total of 2 times = on mid front + on mid back, working 2 dc, 3 ch, 2 dc around the middle ch-space on each side (just as for a granny square), ie you will inc 1 st at the beg of front/back piece + 1 st at the end of front/back piece = 2 sts on each side = 4 sts increased. Happy crocheting!

Debbie 11.05.2019 - 01:55:

Since this Pattern is causing so much trouble, why isn't there an errata addition here? Why aren't there stitch counts after each Rnd? They would make these patterns so much easier to use, I have tried 2 Drops patterns so far, and i had to "fudge" the pattern both times to make it work. I am using The US terms, I have been crocheting for over 50 years, I am not nee at this...I just think that these additions to all your patterns would be very helpful.

DROPS Design 13.05.2019 kl. 08:45:

Dear Debbie, all corrections are listed in red at the end of the written pattern, but if you printed the pattern after these corrections, written pattern is correct. The DROPS patterns are knitted and crocheted by thousands and thousands of people  around the world. We understand however that in certain countries, with different knitting/crochet traditions than Scandinavia, our patterns might be written in a way that differs from what some are used to. Should you need any individual assistance you are welcome to contact your DROPS store, even per mail or telephone - or to ask your question here. Happy crocheting!

Desiree Campbell 28.04.2019 - 22:44:

I am also battling to get this first row after joining the squares ..the pattern doesn't read well at all. Is it possible to put a close up picture of the poncho so I can zoom in and try see it in the actual crocheting. This might help a few of us who seem to be having the same problem with A4

DROPS Design 29.04.2019 kl. 10:51:

Dear Mrs Campbell, you can get a closer look on this round on the 3rd foto. On the first round from squares and down, work 1 tr (= Uk-English) in each tr on each square working the corners as explained. Work then A.4 starting on row 2 (= the one after the row with a star): (1 ch, skip 1 tr, 1 tr in next tr) repeat from (to). On row 2, work 1 tr around the chain, 1 tr in next tr, repeat these 2 sts. Happy crocheting!

Linda 24.10.2018 - 22:35:

On diagram A5 the end squares are one shape, the middle side squares are another shape, and the other two side squares (on both sides) are yet another shape. And yet the instructions say make 8 squares and there is instructions for only one kind of square. How can that be?

DROPS Design 25.10.2018 kl. 08:33:

Dear Linda, squares look different on our chart A.5 just due to the shape, but just crochet 8 similar squares and sew them together in a ring as shown in A.5. Happy crocheting!

Ann Thomas 18.08.2018 - 23:44:

Ok squares are finished and joined together - where do I start and how many stitches should you be workin round do I increase on first row sorry I am unable to follow pattern further

DROPS Design 22.08.2018 kl. 07:35:

Hi Ann, You start where the black square is in A.5 (on the side of the square) and you work 1 stitch in each stitch apart from at the square corners where you work 2 stitches in each corner. The two corners marked with circles are increased as explained in the text. I hope this helps and happy crocheting!

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